Made my table 4 feet on accident (forgot to cut the 1x10 boards down to 36" before attaching everything) but I kinda like the extra length. I also ended up making the matching side table.
This was my very first project I did. Very proud of how this turned out. Now my sister has one and I am building another one with Mickey Mouse on it for my other sister. I build it in a day with lots of breaks due to 4 teenagers.
I used your workbench plan to build my Brew Bench. I changed the measurements to fit my space and used a butcher block for the countertop. Very sturdy and pretty easy project. Took one day to build.
Scott R
We needed something to put clothes in. A dresser wouldn't of been big enough, so I decided on the armoire. I shortened the height so I'd only had to buy 2 1x12's. Everything else is the same. The 1x12's were so warped I had a heck of time with the doors.
I'm not digging the distressing. I tried the Vaseline thing. Never again it was a mess. I'll just stick to sanding it down from now on.
Easy to build workbench. I added an extra 2 1/2 inches (width) to the top plywood cut. This gave me a 1 1/4" lip to the front and back sides. I wanted to be able to clamp on all sides of the bench. Also added casters since I wanted to use this as an outdoor table for entertaining if needed and to simply have mobility with the bench. So far I love it!
I built this book rack using scrap wood and modified plans from the Full Length Plate Rack. It was a really straightforward build, and functions very well as vertical storage that takes up little space. I predrilled, screwed and glued all of the joints, vs. stapling.
Built from left over Rough Cut Maple. Jaket, Helmet and Key Rack
Sat, 10/03/2020 - 10:22
Do you have the plans for this? My husband loves it and we'd love to make it.
Basically I took Ana's plan and tweaked it to create a diy sofa, a love seat, and a corner piece to make a sectional. All 3 pieces have the same basic design and function (they all have a storage compartment), although the corner piece, because of its placement and the thickness of the seating cushions, doesn't open unless the couch is opened first. We purchased custom cut, 6" thick foam cushions for the seats (we bought the XL-38 foam from https://www.buyfoam.com/, but if we had to do it again, we'd go with the XL-28 as the 38 is VERY firm). We also used upholstery fabric instead of a paint drop-cloth to cover the couches. The foam and upholstery fabric upped the overall cost significantly. Other changes from Ana's plan, I used 15/32" OSB because the 1/4" plywood just felt too flimsy (I'm a large guy). I also added I bolts to the underside of the seat before the foam and upholstery so I could add a stress relief rope to prevent the kids from opening the top and dropping it and ripping out the hinges. I used piano hinges as they seemed to me to provide the most support. Finally, I ended up using 1x2s for the base trim since I couldn't find any 2x2s that were straight and finish-ready, then I added router detailing to provide some visual interest. I used 3" pieces of 4x6 for the feet and added matching router detail. Additionally, I used T-Nuts and bolts to make the feet and base trim completely removable.
Mon, 08/17/2020 - 07:46
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We had some leftover granite from an outdoor kitchen build and wanted to maximize the use of it. We loved the look of a rustic table from Pottery Barn and set out to find something that was asking the same aesthetic. I came across the Jilly and Mia workbench console and thought it would work great with some minor modifications. I shortened the overall length and height, went with some heavy duty casters to support the weight of the granite, and reinforced the cross beams that would support the 3/4" plywood sheet and granite. I went with cedar for this build since it was outdoors and I'll finish it with a clear sealant.
Thanks Ana, for the great plans and inspiration!
My daughter is into everything Minnie Mouse right now so I figured, why not!
Tue, 04/28/2015 - 12:04
Is there any way to get the plans for the minnie mouse chair? Would love to make this. I can open the plans for the basic adirondack chair, but not the minnie mouse one.
Thanks!
Sun, 07/24/2016 - 18:30
I am not able to download the minnie mouse chair
plans, can someone please assist?
I wanted to build an L shaped outdoor bar with a 2 post pergola over the grill. I couldn't find any plans online that would fit the space I had, so I decided to build it myself with custom dimensions. The top bar is approx. 7'3" across, and 15" wide, while the distance from the right edge (next to the house) to the end of the bar is approx. 9'1".
I framed it with PT lumber and the 2 pergola posts are sitting on top of the pavers and supported internally within some of the framing studs. Since the pavers sit on top of concrete, I didn't feel the need to dig up the existing pavers and achor them in the ground.
I used hardiboard for the exterior and tiled the lower section of the bar.
For the actual high bar top, I wanted to do something unique, and found a 900 year old scrap slab of Cypress at a local lumber yard. One side was smooth, but underneath was gouged out from different saw cuts and very uneven. I screwed a piece of 3/4" PT plywood underneath and trimmed it with 1-1/2" Cypress. I stained the whole thing with a dark honey colored stain and put a generous amount of poly on it once it was dry. There are a few cracks and nicks on it, but once it was stained, it looked awesome.
Wed, 06/19/2019 - 13:23
Looks awesome. I have been wanting something like this for a while now. Where can we can plans for this?
We have two young kids who don't want to take their shoes and put them away (as well as two adults who are the same way) so I asked my hubby to make Ana's shoe dresser. He did a great job and we were so excited with how it turned out!
This table is made out of Solid Oak and took me +- 6 weeks to complete.
Thanks to Ana White for the plans as I followed them to the "t" with some minor changes in the size
Final size is 10ft long x 47 1/4 inch wide and 29 9/64 inches high
Hidden door bookshelves hide a furnace closet. Built by Kraig Faulkner
Thu, 01/23/2020 - 07:05
Great idea! Do the bookshelves swing freely when weighed down with books? What type of hinges did you use?
Thu, 09/17/2020 - 08:01
I'm currently working on a basement renovation project. I'm probably going to incorporate a feature like this for my mechanicals, too.
One important safety note for anyone who wants to do this: It's recommended that your furnace be a minimum of 30" away from any combustible materials. That includes walls and partitions. The image of this project displayed is right next to the furnace, which is not a good idea.
Made from the square x table breakfast nook plans and then altered the table top a bit.
Inspiration for this project came from the original Restoration Hardware table's price, which was way out of our budget. We found the plans on this site, and then the brag post from http://tommyandellie.com/?p=2582, which convinced me to give it a try when we moved to our new house.
I pulled some ideas and techniques from a couple of different areas - one was the idea from American Woodworker to use a straight-edge and a router to joint the edges of adjacent boards so they match perfectly, or as close to perfect as possible (see one of the pictures). After a few false starts it worked out very well.
One other big change was to use 4x4 pieces for the legs and cross-braces - especially on the long cross-brace. With two kids (6 and 3) and a third on the way, I knew they would want to crawl under the table to play, and sit on the beams - and I was afraid a 2x4 wouldn't hold up to their weights. I've VERY happy with the result - that base is not moving or flexing at all.
Finally, I learned a TON about what NOT to do! Apparently after doing the dry fit and having everything fit well, you should not sand the parts of the boards that fit together or suddenly they will be loose! Also, wiping off the stain after the suggested amount of time IS a good idea, after all! Finally, we ended up using pine boards with fir 4x4's, and I wish we had used all fir as I think the grain pattern was nicer.
All in all, though, it was a great experience and I can't wait to tackle another project!
Mon, 08/05/2013 - 14:52
Thanks Rob, good luck! Below is the link to the original source for the technique I used (#8 in the list). Just be VERY sure you have the boards (and the straightedge) clamped tightly so there's no wiggling. The first time I did it I didn't have the straightedge tight enough and it wiggled loose at one end, so the router started biting into one board more than the other, making a curve. Once I got the layout figured out, however, it worked very well and I was very pleased with it - I even did it again with the ends of the long boards (after they were glued/screwed together) and the inside edge of the breadboards before attaching them.
http://americanwoodworker.com/blogs/techniques/archive/2009/08/26/10-tr…
Fri, 08/09/2013 - 07:11
Good call on using 4x4's. They look much better then a builders grade 2x4. Looks great!
Fri, 08/16/2013 - 08:05
If your using a hand planer your going to get more of a worn uneven look, it's nearly impossible to get a perfect straight board after using a hand planer. IF you run it through a floor standing planer whatever bend in the board will still be there since it follows the contour of the board. If you want a straight board regardless of size you need to straighten it with a tablesaw. I am sure you can find a million how to's by just googling "how to straighten a board with a tablesaw". When your using building lumber you will always have an issue with things not being straight and looking "rough". It may be easier to just goto a actual lumber store and buy something that isn't Pine. Pine is a soft wood which is likely to dent easily after being used. But regardless, if you want a straight board use a tablesaw. I bought a bosch table saw at lowes and its awesome. folds up against my wall and is probably the best tool i have bought. Decent ones run about 400 bucks but its well worth it with what it allows you to do.
Fri, 08/16/2013 - 07:53
Not beforehand... (just to be clear, my 2x's were all white pine, only the 4x4's were Fir - unfortunately, the local Menards only had pine 2x's and fir 4x's) - I spent a lot of time at the store picking out the straightest, least cupped/curved boards I could find, and then spent more time at home arranging them to make sure the boards with the longest straightness (is that a term?) were used for the long pieces. Once the top was put together, I used a straightedge to find the humps and valleys in the top and used a hand plane to level them out a bit (see the background of the picture with the completed base, you can see the shavings on the top). I would suggest, if you do the hand plane route and aren't familiar with the tool or don't own one, to either borrow a well-tuned one from someone who would show you how to use it, or prepare to spend money to get a good one. You probably don't want to do what I did, which was buy a cheapo Stanley from Menards and then spend probably 8-10 hours over the course of a week or so trying to get it setup properly. I finally got it useable, but it was a very frustrating process and it didn't take long before the newly-sharpened edge was dull again. I did finally get it smooth enough so that it was easy to slide a plate or dish from one side of the table to the other without it rocking or hitting an edge/bump, but if I had it to do over again I would have saved the time and spent the money on a good older Stanley or a newer Lie-Nielsen or Lee Valley, etc., and then spent a lot less time getting the plane ready to go.
One thing that helped my mind-set as I went through the process was to remember that the beauty of this style is that it is not supposed to be perfect - a farmhouse table is supposed to look a little rough and worn, and the little defects are part of it's charm. It's an important point to remember especially if you are a bit of a perfectionist as I am!
I made this buffet, serving table to go with a large gathering farmhouse table I made. I loosely used the farmhouse table plans but did some designing of my own based on a picture my friends had of what she wanted.
I decided to make beds for my kids after looking at ones to purchase that all had bad reviews about the sturdiness.
Thank you for providing such comprehensive plans here. I have never built anything from scratch before, and this project was a lot of fun. I'll be starting a second one this week.
Mon, 05/01/2023 - 08:25
You did such a great job, thank you for sharing and tagging on social media!
Full length mirror made from a cheap $10 unframed mirror from IKEA. Trimmed out with some 1 by 3, 1 by 4 and 1 by 2. Stained black and then painted white. sanded between coats of white to show some of black through and give antique worn look.
My bench sits outside my front door to welcome visitors and provide a place to set your packages while unlocking the door! I made it two years ago, and it's weathered three Baltimore winters with out repainting. I'll probably sand t and repaint it this spring. Folks are always asking where I bought it, and I give all the credit to Ana White, your site and your wonderful furniture ideas!
Jim Dupree
Comments
Mrs.Green
Fri, 04/10/2020 - 21:07
ATTENTION I NEED THIS ASAP
If I wanted to make this taller like 3×6ft what size wood would do I need? I want to make this stand for my daughters urn area. She passed away last month and I'm trying to make this perfect. The sooner the better.. Thanks! Love all your work..
Mrs.Green
Fri, 04/10/2020 - 21:08
The first table
The first table