I've made another record cabinet, this time with a nice dark walnut stain. To see more details and plans visit my blog.
http://www.woodworkingfourdummies.com/
Cheers,
Ian
I've been wanting to build a "plank" style farmhouse table for a long time. I used metal corner brackets to allow for easy removal of legs of the table. However, I found the corner brackets quite hard to work with. I think they're probably sturdier than just pocket holes, so I guess that's good.
I used 100-year old barn wood and it looked so beautiful. BUT...I have a two year old and I'm expecting another child soon, so I wanted to plug up some of the gaps in the wood (like old nail holes that went the entire way through the boards) and put something down to preserve the quality of the wood.
After researching a lot of ways to fill in the gaps in wood tables, I tried a few things.
First I tried clear silicone. I think this would have been a great option if the holes were just a little bit smaller. It ended up just looking like plastic in the spaces, though. So I scooped that out and then tried wood filler. The wood filler looked terrible under polyurethane, though, and no matter how much I tried to get them to match, it just looked like a different color. Finally, I ended up using painter's tape on the bottom of the table under slats and holes and filling them slowly with polyurethane (I used an eyedropper for this task!). It worked really well. I should also say that I sanded the already planed boards as much as possible to reduce the gaps between boards.
I'm really pleased with my new table!
I used only poly on the top. The wood is its natural color.
Thanks for the idea, Ana!
I made this table to go next to an outdoor grill to be used as a food prep area or just a surface for holding ingredients (instead of using the deck railing!). The top is stainless steel which fits tightly over 2 3/4" pieces of plywood laminated together. The bar/handle in front is made out of galvanized pipe. All wood was treated.
Legs - 4x4 posts
Bottom shelf - 1x6's
Sides - 1x4's
Top - 2 pieces of 3/4" plywood laminated together with a stainless steel top (custom fit) over top
Towel bar - galvanized pipe (cut and threaded to size at Lowe's), floor flanges and 90 degree elbows
Thu, 05/15/2014 - 10:33
Sorry about the late reply! Yes, I just gave my dimensions to a local steel supplier and they made the top. I think I have about $40 into the stainless. They didn't weld the corners but I've never had an issue with them.
Sat, 04/26/2014 - 15:41
I too would like to know your source for the sheet metal.
In reply to Stainless steel sheet metal by Pursuit of Handyness
Thu, 05/15/2014 - 10:35
I just found a local steel supplier, told them what I need and they formed the top. It cost me around $40 (without welding of the corners). I took a fine grit sandpaper to it afterward to scuff it up so it didn't look so bright.
In reply to Stainless steel sheet metal by Pursuit of Handyness
Thu, 05/15/2014 - 10:35
I just found a local steel supplier, told them what I need and they formed the top. It cost me around $40 (without welding of the corners). I took a fine grit sandpaper to it afterward to scuff it up so it didn't look so bright.
Wed, 04/30/2014 - 12:55
I would like to know are there any plans available to make this table? I am very impressed of its design.
In reply to Grill table with stainless steel top by AMR4412
Thu, 05/15/2014 - 10:46
No...I didn't have any plans when I built it but it's a very simple concept. I chose to use all treated wood since I knew it would be sitting outside unprotected. However, my 4x4 posts weren't square so this caused a lot of problems and everything was built to fit. I believe I just used 4x4's, 1X6s (for the bottom shelf) and 1x4s for the sides (top and bottom). For the top, I just laminated 2 pieces of 3/4" plywood together to bulk it up and then had the stainless top built to fit. It fit perfectly so I didn't glue it to the plywood. This makes it easy to remove and clean, if necessary. For the galvanized pipe (towel bar), I bought it at Lowe's and had them cut/thread it to fit my dimensions.
This was my first project! I love this site. My husband and I needed a work space we could share. I loved the width of the craft table so I extended it to the full 8ft of plywood available and added a support shelf. Voila! Table for two!
Modified to make the coop bigger and the planter smaller. Added 1" foam insulation on the inside and changed the design to use the "deep litter" method. This means the coop bottom goes all the way to the bottom of the support beam rather than using a removable tray. Added a steel roof with a ridge vent at the top. The chicken run under the coop is lined with buried hardware cloth so no animals can dig under the coop. All hinges are mortised and doors flush mounted. The coop is wired for power for a heat lamp. The planter is lined with a metal tray. The coop can be separated into two pieces so you can move it or rotate the top 180 deg if needed (so you can get to the eggs from the left or right side). Great plans, thanks Ana!
Tue, 05/12/2020 - 15:09
Amazing! Thank you so much for sharing a photo, this is truly beautiful!
Sun, 09/27/2020 - 14:42
Do you have the exact measurements that you used for this one?
This is the application of the "Vegetable Rack with Slide Out Trays" from Ana White.
I just added a door and some mosquito net, to avoid midges in summer.
I changed the plans just slightly. I used 2x4's for framing and enlaged the shed somewhat and added a floor. I also used a different type of roof to handle the amount of rain in my area.
I've been planning on building a patio table for this coming spring and summer, but didn't know where to begin. I found Ana's wonderful site and now I don't know where to stop! So many great ideas.
After seeing ewood's great table I decided to make one similar. I made my square table based on Ana's and ewood's basic designs. Thank you both. I also made a bench based on Ana's design.
Sun, 03/18/2012 - 16:36
That looks like it could handle a big and boisterous group. The cedar and the finish are beautiful.
Thu, 03/29/2012 - 07:37
I have a family of 7 (soon to be 8, I hope), and was trying to figure out how to fit us all on the rectangular table. This is the solution! I can simply make 4 benches to go with it! Thanks for the idea and the picture!
Mon, 04/09/2012 - 07:24
Love this table and your modifications to ewood's table. I was wondering what size are the legs on your table - I can't tell if they are 4x4s...which is sort of what I'd like to have on mine. And they are under mounted, which I love because I want to make ours with the ability to remove the legs for reduced storage space in the winter. If you could would you mind putting a few close up photos of how the outside corner came out and the underside of the corners. It would be much appreciated.
Mon, 04/09/2012 - 07:27
Love this table and your modifications to ewood's table. I was wondering what size are the legs on your table - I can't tell if they are 4x4s...which is sort of what I'd like to have on mine. And they are under mounted, which I love because I want to make ours with the ability to remove the legs for reduced storage space in the winter. If you could would you mind putting a few close up photos of how the outside corner came out and the underside of the corners. It would be much appreciated.
In reply to Questions :) by K_W (not verified)
Sat, 04/14/2012 - 13:35
Hi - sorry it took a little while to get back to you. Yes the legs are 4x4's. I used knotted cedar 4x4's for the legs and made them 29" tall. I wanted to be able to disassemble the table and put it away for winter, so I attached the legs using carriage bolts, 2 per side (4 total per leg). I drilled holes using a pilot bit, then used a spatter bit to make the larger holes for the carriage bolt.
I didn't bother to counter sink them, but if I made another I think I would try that to make a more polished look. The legs are sturdy, the table doesn't wobble at all, but I am sure that someone with more furniture building experience might have a different/better idea.
I've added a couple more photos showing the corners, outside and underneath. I've also added my very basic plans that I used to make the table, one of these days I will study Ana's post of how to use sketch-up, until then this is what I worked with.
Wed, 06/06/2012 - 09:26
Can you tell me what size (width) boards you used on the frame pieces of the table, and what size on the inner boards? From your diagrams, it looks like the frame is made of 1x4s, but the inner pieces look smaller. Thank you !!!
Your table is absolutely beautiful. It looks like a very high-end piece of furniture. One of my favorite things is how the carriage bolts are installed -- I wouldn't change a thing on them!
Tue, 07/30/2013 - 16:36
Sorry it took so long to reply - I didn't see your post. So far the table is holding up well.
You're right, the top is made from 1x4's, including the inlaid slats. To support the top, I cut 1x4's down to 1x3's so they remain hidden by the side 1x4's of the frame.
Tue, 10/16/2012 - 18:02
Love the table - looks absolutely fantastic! I have been looking for a decent square outdoor table for ages and this one certainly fits the bill.
Can you please add a photo of the underside of the table and advise how you fastened inner boards on table top. Thanks.
In reply to Question by Aussie Paul (not verified)
Tue, 07/30/2013 - 16:40
I added a new photo of the bottom. Hopefully this will help show how I attached the top. I have a number of additional photo's I can send to you if you like - this site limits the number of photos I can add.
Everything is attached from the bottom to hide the screws. I used a kreg jig and it helped so much - i really recommend it.
Wed, 08/14/2013 - 12:35
I love the look of this table, man - I think I'm gonna steal some ideas from this.
I have a question about your top, though. The slats look to be 1x4s, which I can understand, but the edges seem to be a bigger size.
Did you use 1x6 boards for the edges? 1x8s? Something else?
Thanks for your help.
Mon, 09/02/2013 - 11:03
Thank you - please take any ideas from it that you can. That is what I love that about Ana's site. You can take these great ideas and make them fit your own style...
You're right - the table top is made of 1x4's and 1x6's. When i put the top together I made the frame first. Then I added the exterior 1x6's. Next I added the center 1x6. Lastly I cut each 1x4 to size and added them.
Sat, 05/17/2014 - 07:15
This is an amazing table, it is beautiful! I am somewhat new to wood working and was wondering if there was a material list? I plan on creating this in AutoCAD first, so I have a visual to work off of. Also what did you use for spacing in between the boards or what was the allowance of space.
Thanks again, your work is beautiful!
Sat, 05/17/2014 - 07:15
This is an amazing table, it is beautiful! I am somewhat new to wood working and was wondering if there was a material list? I plan on creating this in AutoCAD first, so I have a visual to work off of. Also what did you use for spacing in between the boards or what was the allowance of space.
Thanks again, your work is beautiful!
Wed, 06/17/2015 - 11:48
Great table…any chance you can share the plan and material list? Cheers
Wed, 04/22/2020 - 20:37
In looking at the plans and the underside of the table, there are some measurements missing that make it a little hard to decipher. It would be good to know the lumber sizes e.g. 1x4x8 etc. the underneath side seems to have some additional boards that don’t seem to be in the drawing. I was just wondering if it might be possible to get some additional details?
Sun, 05/24/2020 - 08:05
This is a beautiful table and I'm going to try and replicate in a rectangular version. Primary question I have is what length screws you used to affix the framing pieces underneath to the top side so that the wood doesn't split and that the screws don't pop thru the top. Any help you can provide would be appreciated, if even you still look at this page. Thanks in advance!
Per request of my wife, I opted to add a backrest to the chair. I feel as though my backrest design keeps with the style of the original build. I accomplished this by cutting the 2x4 vertical arms of the backrest at 13 inches with a 10 deg miter cut at the base. This allows you to keep with the 3/4" on the 2x6 backrest slats. I finished it off with a 2x4 top plate. I'd also note that I made slight modifications to the plans to accommodate 24" cushions.
Love this table!
Sat, 01/05/2019 - 14:27
WOW! This is gorgeous! What a beautiful setting! Thank you for building and sharing!
The wife has a hard time bending down so she wanted pedestals for the washer and dryer. The metal ones with a drawer were too tall. I showed her Sausha's and she really loved that design. I basically used the same construction plans idea from Sausha's project and some tips from Ryan's brag post. But, I wanted to beef it up some. I didn't like the L-bracket to attach the top and 4X4 legs. It didn't seem sturdy enough for me. I used my table saw to square the edges on the 4X4 posts and the 2X6 rails. Then I used my Kreg jig and glued and screwed everything together. I liked Ryan's trim ideas, so I used baseboard trim for the bottom and flipped it for the top trim. I made a 1/2" lip so if it were to vibrate, the washer/dryer would not fall. I put the trim on the bottom of the legs and was considering putting on the top but I put some different trim all the way around the bottom of the 2X6 rails. The wife liked that. I also added some carpet on the top to cut down on vibration and to help keep the units in place. I also put some 4X4 pieces of carpet on the bottom to keep the noise down and to help in moving it. I primed and used an gravity sprayer to paint it. Then I put 3 coats of polyacrylic to help in cleaning and to cut down on scratches from the laundry baskets.
Wed, 06/29/2016 - 14:31
I think you could probably drive a truck on top of yours. :) I was a bit concerned about the strength of the construction when I first decided to build it, but I decided that since it would be stationary once I have it in place and the only force would be straight down, it would be fine. Once I got it put together, it was actually sturdier than I thought it was going to be...from a horizontal force perspective. Virtically, that thing could hold 100 washer/dryer pairs...the plywould would give out before the 2x4s and 4x4s would even budge.
Anyway, nice work! I love the Kreg Jig...I need one of those.
Sun, 01/29/2017 - 16:23
Great looking build, thanks for the detailed photos!
Wood Cooler Stand
You can see the final project here: http://crabandfish.blogspot.com/2012/10/lil-archers-bed-its-done-its-do…
It was time for our son to move to a big-boy bed! We looked at tons of plans, but none were quite what I wanted. In the end, fish modified plans for Ana White's Camp Loft Bed with Stair. We wanted to make it a bit shorter because we only have 8' ceilings and there is a ceiling fan in the room. We spent about $80 for the lumber and invested in a kreg jig as well. The bed is stained with Minwax Golden Oak. We bought a 10" deep twin-sized foam mattress for the bed - if you are adding a coil mattress and boxspring, the bedside rails would definitely need to be higher.
Our son LOVES it! He is almost three and is easily able to navigate the stairs, which I don't believe will become too "baby-ish" as he grows older. If they do, the steps can easily be removed from the frame without losing structural integrity.
The underbed area has a great "cool" factor - we hang blankets to create forts, and it has become a place our son gravitates to for reading, playing, anything!
Sat, 01/03/2015 - 11:41
We followed the outdoor sectional plan from Ana Whites blog to create this outdoor sectional. First we bought the cushions and custom built this sectional to fit the cushions. We used 2x4's and the kreg jig for pocket screws, then covered the base in beadboard and some pine trim, gave it a good sanding and a nice paint job.
Fri, 04/12/2013 - 05:46
Thanks! We built the frame according to Ana's design (customized dimensions for our cushions) and then covered the base in bead board and used pine trim around the edges. The cushions are from the Frontgate Outlet in Cincinnati.
Wed, 05/07/2014 - 15:34
Is there a link to the side/corner section of this so I do not have to guess. Thanks.
One day project with hubby! Wanted a wood set, but couldn’t find a reasonable price. Bought tools, wood, supplies, and cushions for under the cost of one online!
Thank you! You've helped me look like a true carpenter who knows what he's doing! My whole family is impressed with my woodwork lately, and now I'm addicted. I've done your seesaw, bar table and stools plus the treehouse in 2 weeks. Thank you for sharing your plans!
I loved the Holman Entertaining Shleves from Pottery Barn, however, I didn't like the price. Taking the $10 ledge plans and modifying them, I set out to make my own. I used a 1 x 10 (bottom), 1 x 6 (back) and a 1 x 3 (front). They are 23 7/8 inches long to get the 3 shelves out of 6 foot boards. To get the holes to hold the top of the bottle, I used a 1 and 1/4 inch forstner bit. Since I had gift cards left from Christmas I splurged on the wood and bought the select pine.
Thu, 02/09/2012 - 09:11
Each shelf has 4 drywall screws countersunk and attached to the studs.
Tue, 01/14/2014 - 10:55
I love your adaptation of the original design. I have been looking for an example of someone who made this plan into a wider shelf. Has it held up well? I was worried about the stress on the joints when you make it deeper. Has yours handled the weight of the bottles?
The queen and twin bases were base on your twin bed with storage. Pretty easy to do. This is my first time doing anything this big. I live in a four season resort town and needed beds for heads for ski season.
Debbi H - IG - callintn
We are used to seeing our grandson every weekend but during the 2020 COVID quarantine we were unable to do so. Instead, we filled our time building him a swing set for our backyard. He loved it!! We are going to add more to the swing side but the hardware I want isn't available right now (apparently there is a lot of swing set building going on during this time). I look forward to many years of playing on this with our grandson and hopefully additional grandkids in the future... Our cost was pretty high mainly because our first round of lumber came from a local lumberyard that was willing to deliver within a few days (big box was going to take several weeks) and they had what is supposed to be higher end lumber (not sure I am convinced of that)....also, i chose some pretty expensive hardware (brackets) just for the added security.....
Comments
jackeymackson
Sat, 03/14/2020 - 21:17
Looks like your site doesn’t…
Looks like your site doesn’t work any more :(