Community Brag Posts

Custom Pallet Laundry Basket!!!

Submitted by Anonymous (not verified) on Fri, 04/15/2022 - 15:43

I told the love of my life about how Ana had a really cool laundry basket shelf, and asked her if she wanted one. Of course she said yes, so I made her one! I added a few twists to mine as you can tell, but the actual shelf itself is completely from her design!

Comments

My laundry basket dresser with doors

Submitted by jensimmons on Sun, 07/03/2011 - 20:19

I wanted to use our laundry basket dresser as a collector for dirty laundry in our bathroom, and wanted it to have doors so it would blend in better. I also made the shelf above for our towels. It is painted white with a faux-zinc finish on the top. I made the top slightly larger so it would overhang and added cute little bun feet. My talented friend Carli helped me build the doors (and by helped I mean I handed her things while she impressed me with all her tools and skills!) and frame.

Built from Plan(s)
Estimated Cost
$75-100 (can't remember exactly)
Estimated Time Investment
Weekend Project (10-20 Hours)
Finish Used
white semi-gloss paint, zinc faux finish: layer 1 dark charcoal paint, layer 2 dark pewter metallic glaze, layer 3 white paint thinned with water & rubbed on/off.
Recommended Skill Level
Intermediate

Comments

Guest (not verified)

Fri, 07/29/2011 - 23:37

this is perfect! i totally need a bunch just like this! I love the added doors!

Pam in Colorado (not verified)

Sat, 09/17/2011 - 12:48

This is the look I'd like, fit the baskets and hide them behind doors until you are ready to do the laundry. These could be made for bedrooms, bathrooms, toy rooms (okay, toys instead of dirty laundry)...

Guest (not verified)

Fri, 11/11/2011 - 08:05

I absolutely love this! Could you please add instructions on how to make/paint and install the doors? I am a newbie to making my own furniture. Thanks!

Guest (not verified)

Wed, 01/11/2012 - 08:29

I love this idea! I will have a new bathroom soon and I think this will get used! What are the dimensions, or what style cabinet would you suggest to look for? TIA!

Jennifer Simmons (not verified)

Fri, 02/17/2012 - 05:57

The dimensions are the same as Ana's plan: http://ana-white.com/2010/11/laundry-basket-dresser except that the top is slightly bigger (3/4" overhang on front/sides) to look more like a countertop. On the doors we just made a frame w/ angled pieces, routed a notched line on the back & glued/nailed some beadboard in from the back. Sorry I can't be much more detailed on that, a friend did most of the doors for me!

Guest (not verified)

Sun, 02/19/2012 - 07:42

I actually got the plywood to do this project and I was going to add doors. I looked at the baskets suggested but it seems they would stick out the front. I was just curious, did you use different baskets that would fit inside the cabinet or did you make the cabinet slightly deeper?

Jennifer Simmons (not verified)

Sat, 02/25/2012 - 05:36

Actually I discovered the same problem after it was built. I just didn't put a back on and they stick out a tiny bit in the back. I actually kind of like it that way because it lets some air in (being in the bathroom and putting towels in I could see it getting mildewy without much circulation). But if I had gotten the baskets first I probably would have made it about 2" deeper, then leave some open space, but not all, on the back.

Deck Gate

Submitted by mweir on Tue, 06/26/2012 - 19:37

With grandchildren and pets we decided to put a gate on the deck.

The gate is made from 2 X 4's and 2 x 2's. I used brass hinges to prevent rust and smooth operation

Estimated Cost
$15.00
Estimated Time Investment
An Hour or Two (0-2 Hours)
Finish Used
we will finish the gate when the deck is stained
Recommended Skill Level
Beginner

Twin Sleeper Chair

Submitted by Hoff7.62 on Sat, 06/04/2022 - 15:20

This was my take on your Twin Sleeper Chair. I made it into a full. I used 2x4’s where there was suppose to be 1x4’s because I changed the width. This was a very fun project, my first project actually. Thank you for the plans and idea.

Built from Plan(s)

Comments

Cornhole Boards

Submitted by SaraLodise on Fri, 09/23/2016 - 13:15

Cornhole boards for friends and family :)       Used 1x4s for framing and legs, 1/2" ply for top.

 

"R" set:  Birch plywood tops w/ (2) coats of Miniwax Weathered Oak oil stain. Red stripe is Behr 'Cherry Cola.'  (3) coats of Polycrylic finish.

 

"AW" set:  Regular plywood tops w/ (1) coat of Miniwax Special Walnut oil stain & Glidden 'Clemson Orange' stripe.   (3) coats of Polycrylic finish.

Estimated Cost
$100/set (2 boards)
Estimated Time Investment
Weekend Project (10-20 Hours)
Finish Used
(see description)
Recommended Skill Level
Intermediate

Comments

Seasonal And Holiday

Cedar sectional

Submitted by rhn0489 on Mon, 07/06/2020 - 11:39

My sister needed new outdoor furniture for her deck and liked the look of the sectional. I used cedar with a clear varnish to creat this piece for her that was perfectly sized for her deck. The challenge to this one was getting it to her house about 3 hours from mine. Fully assembled it would have been tight getting it in my truck. I ended up cutting all of the boards and drilling all of the pocket holes in my shop and then assembling at her house. I have added backs to some of the pieces I have made fro others that want the extr support. I add a 1x4 laying flat across the back of the seat. The slats going up and down then have a slight angle to them which adds comfort and support. I attached the pieces to the 1x4 and the upper back rest piece in the plans.

Estimated Cost
$340 including lumber and hardware
Estimated Time Investment
Weekend Project (10-20 Hours)
Recommended Skill Level
Intermediate
Seasonal And Holiday

Screen door with built in dog door

Our old screen door wasn't cutting it anymore, so I built a new one, and to kill two birds with one stone, I included a built-in dog door. Now I just need to find the motivation to close off the old dog door.

I have the plans to build this screen door with a built-in dog door posted via the blog link below for anyone interested.

Estimated Cost
80
Estimated Time Investment
Afternoon Project (3-6 Hours)
Finish Used
white exterior paint
Recommended Skill Level
Intermediate

Secretary/Storage cabinet

Submitted by Kirch3333 on Mon, 11/02/2015 - 05:39

Inspired by the Tall Secretary with mail slots but with my own twist/needs incorporated in it. Finished with pure white satin paint.

Estimated Cost
$150
Estimated Time Investment
Week Long Project (20 Hours or More)
Finish Used
Pure white Behr satin enamel paint, finished with Varathane Matte Soft Touch Polyurethane
Recommended Skill Level
Intermediate

Faux Fireplace with hidden storage cabinets

Submitted by Wccox on Mon, 11/16/2015 - 20:50

Very nice project built in a day. 

Estimated Cost
$250
Estimated Time Investment
Day Project (6-9 Hours)
Recommended Skill Level
Intermediate

Comments

Seasonal And Holiday

Murphy Bed Cabinet

Submitted by Aventusman on Mon, 11/30/2015 - 14:07

I made this cabinet to house my murphy bed.  I used the Toy or TV Armoire plans as a start and adjusted the measurements as needed.

Estimated Cost
$250
Estimated Time Investment
Weekend Project (10-20 Hours)
Finish Used
Painted White
Recommended Skill Level
Beginner

Comments

King bed

Handmade king bed check us out on Facebook Marney Marie 

Estimated Cost
400
Estimated Time Investment
Day Project (6-9 Hours)
Recommended Skill Level
Beginner

Three Bin Laundry Sorter

Submitted by Meyer1120 on Mon, 01/21/2013 - 21:10

Modified the original plan to meet our needs of a laundry sorter. Had problems with the hinges so ditched them. I used dowels with a combination of a chamfer cut on the bottom of the door. Dado-ed the trim on the doors and slide the bead board panels in. The face frame is all held together with pocket hole screws, which I highly recommend because it eliminates nail holes and keeps the face frame square. This was my first wood working project, took me a little long to get it done. Thanks for looking.

Modified January 28

So here are some more pictures of my project. I don't really have any good pictures of the dowels. But what I can tell you is, I drilled holes through the sides of the face frame and the trim pieces and then measured where the holes would be in relation to the "drawer". I then drilled holes in the drawers at those measurements, I was careful to not go to deep. I think I went in half an inch. After that I started at one end and placed the dowels in, then put each drawer in. It wasn't easy but with a little patience it worked. The key is to wax the dowels so they will last longer as well. I also am including pictures of the top and bottom trim. On the top the original plans called for an overhang piece and I didn't like the way that looked. I ran the top board an inch long on each side and then wrapped it in quarter round trim. I did this because I plan on adding the Mimi Hutch Top. The bottom was built per the plan, but I ran into a problem with my bottom trim not being level and you could tell. So I raised the whole unit on 1 1/2 legs then placed it on a level surface and again wrapped it in a decorative trim. The key on both trims was a nice miter joint. Last picture I added was of my stoppers. I took scrap from the 1x2 trim and cut them to an inch and a half or two (can't really remember), then using the Kreg Jig drill bit drilled recessed holes. I then opened the doors until the side 45s were level then mounted the blocks on each side. I feel that it is better than a chain or string catch. Again thanks for looking and I hope I answered all of your questions.

Estimated Time Investment
Week Long Project (20 Hours or More)
Finish Used
Primmer and paint
Recommended Skill Level
Intermediate

Comments

moosmani

Tue, 01/22/2013 - 11:29

Dowels! What a great idea! Would you mind sharing how you did it? Could you possibly add some pictures showing the dowels? You did a great job. It looks beautiful.

mullid1

Thu, 01/24/2013 - 09:27

I love what you have made! Could you post pictures of the top and the bottom trim? I'm very impressed that this is your first project!

mullid1

Tue, 01/29/2013 - 09:12

Thank you for the photos and new instructions! You're awesome!!!

VLT

Fri, 03/15/2013 - 12:05

This is lovely; I like the trim job you did. Is there a way to post the plans so we can all get to them. I cannot believe this was your first project!

Liz82

Sat, 11/16/2013 - 18:23

I am a little confused. I love the three bin laundry sorter, but everyone is mentioning plans. I am not finding plans for it on the site. Also, what goes in to hold the clothes? There may be obvious answers, but I am not seeing them. I'd appreciate any help you could give.

towering inferno

Tue, 12/02/2014 - 02:58

I've been thinking of working up one very similar to this, also with 3 bins, but I didn't want to use chain either.  Those stoppers will be ideal - do you put them on both sides or is one enough?  Thanks for the share!

Karahd

Sat, 01/24/2015 - 11:29

Hi-

Im not sure if you still have the plans to this awesome project, but if you do, would you be able to share them with me? Ive been looking to make something like this forever, but just couldnt find any help!

thanks,
karah
[email protected]

petemoore

Mon, 02/08/2016 - 07:46

hi im the same as everyone can you send me the build plans with dimensions etc

many thanks

virginie D.

Wed, 03/02/2016 - 14:49

Hi

It's exactely what i need. so amazing. Someone can send me the plan please? I'm so newbie to do tat all by myself without plans. Thanks you.

virginie D.

Wed, 03/02/2016 - 14:49

Hi

It's exactely what i need. so amazing. Someone can send me the plan please? I'm so newbie to do tat all by myself without plans. Thanks you.

ajbreaux

Mon, 05/02/2016 - 14:22

My wife loves this . if its possible could i get the plans and hopefully have time to build it to give to her for mothers day ? thanks 

Kimhubbell

Fri, 12/02/2016 - 11:01

I would also love to have the plans for the 3 bin sorter. I am barely an intermediate so more specifics would be a huge help! Thanks to anyone who could help.

lworthy

Mon, 07/10/2017 - 04:19

 I absolutely LOVE your laundry sorter!!!! You did a fabulous job and the TRIM, WOW amazing!!!! I've searched Ana's website and cant find the plans' could you please email me the plans to [email protected].  I started building my own furinture back in October 2016 and the reward is amazing... Keep up the good work.

Happy Building,

Lisa

woodmama

Tue, 01/16/2018 - 22:18

I'm too new at woodworking to be able to tackle this right now, but would love to download the plans for future. My most successful project so far is a pretty standard bookshelf. I got a free plan, with lots of guidelines and explanations, at https://tinyurl.com/ydeup8lo -- it came with a 440 page guide, "The Art of Woodworking" that has tips and techniques, and am plowing through that right now.

momto3

Wed, 02/28/2018 - 12:53

This is amazing.  I am very new to woodworking.  Could you send me the plans please?  I would be most appreciatative 

Ljohns

Wed, 03/11/2020 - 23:27

I would love to have the plans for the three bin laundry sorter to build for my laundry room. Are the plans available? Awesome work!

Modified and Expanded Loft Bed, Shelves, and Desk

Submitted by mickelsn on Mon, 11/25/2019 - 20:09

My daughter desperately needed a new loft bed for her small bedroom as she became a teenager. After looking a long time, I finally decided to   take the plunge and make something custom after we couldn’t find a bed that met her needs (she’s VERY tall for her age). Thank you for posting the loft bed and bookshelf plans to this site, as they were great to work from and customize! This is my first woodworking project of any kind, and it came out great with these plans.

We followed the Loft Bed and Loft Bed Bookshelf plans pretty closely, but we did make some changes as we went...

First, we tweaked the guard rail design to make it removable by adding back vertical posts. This way, the front and back posts slide over the front rail and it no longer needs to be screwed in place. This is a nice tight grip for safety, but it’s much easier to make the bed by removing the guard rail and dealing with the mattress. If you do this, just make sure the back vertical posts are shorter than the front ones to make room for the cleats and slats on the inside of the rail! This also means the top of the rail is made with a 1x3 instead of the 1x2 in the instructions.

We also decided to use a vertical ladder design rather than an angled ladder. We did this for space considerations in the room; it’s a bit harder to get up the ladder, but not that much. This also helped avoid any weird angle cuts with my basic tools. We also made the ladder about 3” wider than the one called for in the plans.

One of my favorite features was adding a 3/4” plywood “ceiling” above the desk. We did this by moving the long side cleats upward by 3/4” of an inch in the plans, and using pocket holes roughly every 10 inches around the perimeter of the plywood. We used this to hide the bottom of the mattress and all the bedding from view when sitting at the desk. It also provides for LED strip lighting above the desk, which is installed by routing out a pathway in the board and installing the lights within an aluminum channel for heat dissipation and to allow installation of a plastic diffuser over the lights. The wiring for the lights lives in the ~1.5” gap between the board and the slats thanks to the 1 x 2 cleats.

In the shelving, we made the upper shelf in the wide bookcase adjustable with the help of a Kreg shelf pin jig. We also ordered a 3/8” tempered glass shelf for this area to let more of the LED light strip we installed in the top of this shelf shine down as well. Again, this was installed in a routed-out pathway that holds an aluminum channel, and the wiring goes up through both the bookcase top and the plywood bed “ceiling” panel to join into the power. We got the strip lights, aluminum channel with diffusers, power supply, and controller from Amazon.

To get power to the LED lights, I routed out a channel for 5-conductor wire in the middle board of a rear leg assembly. Before gluing up the leg, I coated the wire with silicone spray to avoid the glue adhering to it so I could slide the wire around as needed. With a little bit of chiseling, this wire is able to come out of the slide-in joints for the upper and lower wide rails on the back of the bed. On the top, these wires go into a splitter and then to the two sets of LED light strips. On the bottom, the wires to into the LED controller which is mounted to a scrap board along with the power supply that stands on end in the 3/4” gap between the back side wall of the bookshelf and the bottom bed rail.

We created a custom-designed file drawer unit as the pedestal for the desk opposite the wide bookshelf. This was modeled roughly after Ikea Alex drawers with three narrow drawers and one file drawer. The carcass is about 14 1/2” wide by 21 3/4” deep by 29 1/4” tall and made of 3/4” plywood. The drawer boxes are approximately 12” wide by 20” long made of 1/2” plywood with 3/4” plywood fronts. We used full-extension soft-close drawer slides and positioned the cabinet so they have nearly full extension behind the ladder. Four wooden dowels are used on the top corners to align and secure this end of the desk surface.

Speaking of the desk, it is a piece of 3/4” plywood approximately 24” deep by 64” long. One end rests on the file drawer cabinet, and the other end is flush with the middle shelf of the bookcase and attached using two 6” by 5” 14-gauge galvanized T-straps usually used in framing applications. These are screwed upwards into the bottom of the desk and shelf from below, and are holding up quite well. This avoids the need for desk legs by the bookshelf.

We then adapted the techniques used for the wide bookshelf to build a narrow bookcase (79” tall, 14 1/2” wide) out of two more 10-foot long 1x12 boards. This bookcase sits between the end of the bed and the corner of the room to finish out the look and provide more storage. The top, middle, and bottom shelves are fixed and there are a total of four adjustable shelves (two in the top half, two in the bottom half). We also cut a door and installed it using a pair of full-overlay euro hinges. With these dimensions, the tall bookcase is also capable of working with 11” x 11” x 11” storage cubes just like the wide bookshelf.

The finishing touch was to create a shelf that attaches to the guard rail and provides a place for my daughter’s alarm clock to sit and be within easy reach. This shelf is made around a piece of the scrap 3/4” plywood that is approximately 21” long and 9” deep. I used leftover 1x3 pine that I glued and nailed to the outside perimeter of the plywood flush with the bottom to hide the layers in the plywood while providing walls around the shelf. I also glued and screwed another 1x3 piece to the front of the plywood, this time flush with the top, as the first piece of a U-shaped grip to slide over the top of the guard rail. Another 1x3 scrap was then positioned, glued, and brad nailed to this front piece to finish the grip. I then cut a triangular piece of wood from a 1x6 to provide additional support under the shelf against one of the vertical pieces of the guard rail. This piece is held in place with counter-sunk screws that go through the top of the plywood shelf down into E-Z Lok threaded inserts in the top of the triangular wood support. The whole shelf assembly is only attached to the guard rail so that I can still easily remove the rail to change bedding on the mattress.

The whole project is constructed out of Home Depot select pine boards and birch plywood. Throughout construction, I used a 3/16” round-over bit in a router to eliminate sharp corners pretty much everywhere on the bed itself (legs, rails, ladder, etc.). I didn’t use this on the bookshelves, the file drawers, or the desk. Edge banding was used to hide any exposed plywood edges. I used 200-grit sanding discs and an orbital sander to sand the various pieces during construction and before finishing. The entire thing is finished with two or three coats of Minwax Polycrylic water-based polyurethane, sanding between coats, which gives this a nice smooth finish and lets the richness of the wood grain come through.

Hopefully the pictures I’ve posted can help understand the write-up on modifications to the project. I enjoyed building this a lot, and my daughter really loves what this did to her room to make it much more usable! That was worth all the effort and time right there.

Ana, thanks a million for the plans!!

Estimated Cost
$750 in materials for wood, LED lighting, tempered glass shelf, etc.
Estimated Time Investment
Week Long Project (20 Hours or More)
Finish Used
Minwax Polycrylic, Satin finish. Used Shur-Line 3.5” x 7” White Fiber pads to apply on most flat surfaces, with foam brushes to get into corners and apply to edges. For complex pieces like the ladder and guard rail, used Minwax Polycrylic Satin spray. Sanded between coats with 320-grit sandpaper in all cases. Used two coats when doing pad application; four coats when doing spray application.
Recommended Skill Level
Beginner

Sandbox with Benches

Submitted by cscottrun on Mon, 04/13/2015 - 10:33

We altered the original plan by enlarging the sandbox (approx 5' x 6') which made for wider benches that can comfortably seat an adult.  The benches and back rests are three boards deep instead of two.  We added 2x12 supports under the benches for additional support, as well as another 2x4 support in the middle of the backrest.

Built from Plan(s)
Estimated Time Investment
Day Project (6-9 Hours)
Finish Used
None
Recommended Skill Level
Beginner

Comments

Seasonal And Holiday

Bedside End Tables

Submitted by Grace734 on Mon, 02/05/2018 - 07:38

These are made from the three drawer plans but modified the size to meet our needs and used planks for shelves instead of drawers. Painted white and black gel stain. 

 

UPDATE FROM ANA - We have received MANY requests for this plan and have created a plan inspired by this post here.

Shopping List (for ONE bedside table) + Tools

  • 1 - 1x2 @ 6 feet long
  • 5 - 1x4 @ 8 feet long
  • 2 - 2x2 @ 8 feet long
  • 1-1/4" and 2-1/2" pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4" brad nails
  • wood glue
  • Kreg Jig
  • Compound Miter saw
  • Drill
  • Brad Nailer (18 guage)

Cut List (for ONE bedside table)

  • 4 - 1x2 @ 14" - Side panel trim
  • 8 - 1x4 @ 23-1/4" - Side panels
  • 4 - 2x2 @ 27-1/4" - Legs
  • 6 - 2x2 @ 14" - Shelf support
  • 8 - 1x4 @ 17" - Shelves
  • 5 - 1x4 @ 18" - Top

Cut 1x4s and 1x2s with miter saw. Layout side panel 1x4s as shown above.  Measure and cut 1x2 to length.  Nail the 1x2 to the 1x4s, two nails per overlap with glue.  Make sure your side panels are square.  Build two.

Drill 3/4" pocket holes on inside edge of 1x4 ends as shown above.  Cut 2x2s with compound miter saw. Attach to the 2x2 legs with 1-1/4" pocket hole screws.

Set Kreg Jig to 1-1/2" setting.  Drill 1-1/2" pocket holes on end of each 2x2, one per end.  Attach to 2x2s with wood glue as shown above.

Cut 1x4 shelf boards with compound miter saw.  Nail and glue to the inside of the project as shown above.

Cut 1x4 top boards with compound miter saw.  Nail and glue to top with 1-1/4" nails and wood glue.

If you wish to add a back, measure and cut from 1/4" plywood and attach with 3/4" brad nails.

Estimated Cost
100.00 for both.
Estimated Time Investment
Weekend Project (10-20 Hours)
Finish Used
One coat of eggshell white PPG
Two coats of ebony gel stain
Recommended Skill Level
Beginner

Comments

Our master closet from this plan!

Submitted by jec on Sat, 01/11/2014 - 07:18

We built this master closet using the simple closet plan. It looks wonderful and wasn't too difficult to do once we determined the measurements we needed to use to fit our closet. My husband does not have much building experience at all, but he was able to do this with Ana's fabulous plans. Thank you so much for saving us hundreds of dollars! We have real wood in our closet and we love it!

We used plywood and painted all surfaces with indoor latex trim paint.

Built from Plan(s)
Estimated Cost
$100
Estimated Time Investment
Weekend Project (10-20 Hours)
Finish Used
Painted with interior latex trim paint from Porter Paint. Used 2 coats.
Recommended Skill Level
Beginner

Comments

imortison

Sun, 01/12/2014 - 19:02

It looks very nice. May I ask what dimension of the plywood you used?
They look more than 3/4'' thick to me, right? My husband and I are planning our very first project!! Any info /advice would be highly appreciated.

Ryan's Washer/Dryer Pedestal

Submitted by zoolander on Fri, 12/05/2014 - 17:25

I loved this design.  I couldn't believe that they wanted to charge me almost $600 for the pedestals for the washer/dryer set that I bought on black friday, so I decided to give this project a go.  I basically used the same construction plans from Sausha's project, but I dressed mine up a bit.  First, I chose a bit larger trim for the tops and bottoms of the posts.  Then, I bought some 2" baseboards and did the top and bottom with baseboards.  On the bottom, I had to use my tablesaw to trim off about 1/2" because I used 1x1" boards on the bottom so that I could have more space for baskets.  Then, on the top, I inverted the baseboard and allowed it to overlap a bit so that if it were to vibrate, the washer/dryer could not fall off the edge.  I also added some fabric on the top (stuff that I use to cover the bunk boards on my boat trailer...kind of like a very thick and durable felt material) to cut down on vibration and also keep the units in place.  Finally, I added sides by using wedge trusses on the inside of my side posts and then I put a 1/8" piece of plywood over top and nailed/glued it to the trusses.

It turned out great.  Thanks for the plans Sausha!

Estimated Cost
$125
Estimated Time Investment
Weekend Project (10-20 Hours)
Finish Used
paint
Recommended Skill Level
Intermediate

Comments

Zlk200

Mon, 12/21/2015 - 17:38

Did you use sanded plywood? Did you use any veneers for the exposed 2x4's to get a smooth finish or did you paint right on it?

lastly, what is the name of the trim you put on the 4x4s? I've hard a hard time finding it. Thank you!

In reply to by Zlk200

zoolander

Wed, 06/29/2016 - 13:59

Sorry for the super delayed response.  I didn't realize this question was here.  I did not plane anything.  I did sand the surfaces a bit, but I didn't get too crazy.  I put 3 thick coats of paint on it which made it pretty smooth.  If you look very closely in person, you can still see a bit of wood grain, but it is only noticable if you really get down and look.  I did use a lot of wood putty to fill all of the gaps and crevaces and then I sanded those parts pretty well.  

 

With regard to the trim, the top literally just standard baseboard material turned upside down, and then the little trim on the tops and bottoms of the 4x4s is just another standard strip of moulding that I got from Lowes.  I think they call it "Chair Rail" moulding.  Its the stuff that you put down if you are doing some sort of paint separation or wainscoting.

http://www.lowes.com/pd/1-625-in-x-12-ft-Mdf-Chair-Rail/3403018

I used woodglue on all of the moulding and tacked it on with a nail gun.  Then I filled all of the nail holes with wood putty and also use the putty to fill gaps where the corners came together to make that look smooth.

I hope that helps...you are probably already done with your project by now, but I figured that I would answer anyway.  :)

Sideboard

Submitted by Anonymous (not verified) on Mon, 01/21/2019 - 23:48

Really enjoyed making this! Thank you for the plans Ana White! 

Built from Plan(s)
Estimated Cost
250.00
Estimated Time Investment
Weekend Project (10-20 Hours)
Finish Used
Rustoleum Chalked linen white with gloss finish.
Recommended Skill Level
Intermediate

Comments

2x4 Sectional , table, and chairs

Submitted by Anonymous (not verified) on Fri, 04/14/2023 - 04:57

Your easy to follow 2x4 proje ts turned out amazing. My outdoor set is complete. The chairs, also, came from your plans. I built all of it by myself in one weekend. Thank you

Comments