Community Brag Posts
Trash cabinet with diamond plate
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Built this by the plans with one modification. I bought this diamond plate when it was on sale at lowes. It fit perfect. Used small self taping screws to hold it in. Stained the same color(kona) as our caninets.
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Grandson's Playhouse - Wayne Oglesby
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My favorite project ever because I built it for my 18 month old grandson. He really loved playing in it. Thanks for the plan Ana. It was well done and easy to follow.
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Planked Wood Headboard in Cal King
This project was a blast to make. And, it really is doable and a lot less time then you would think. And finishing it with milk-based paint is even more enjoyable. I used screws and a drill (pre-drill!) and it was wonderful.
Here's some advice for the plan:
- Mount the back of the headboard with a piece of wood and use a metal support as shown here. Just make sure the board is wide enough to be level with your back trim, or else the metal support won't be even when you screw it down. And when you pre-drill this board, make sure you don't go all the way through, or else you will have holes through the front! It stunk to have to putty them all in, but thank heavens for putty.
- Although the instructions say to make your top 1 x 3" trim to fit in line with the top of the headboard, I made mine one inch longer on both sides, and then the 2 x 4" one inch longer to go on top of that 1 x 3" on both sides. That was just the look I wanted. Although you can get your wood pre-cut, I would recommend cutting it all yourself, especially since you will need these cut afterward once the rest of your headboard is put together.
- Ana's 'get started' tips are very helpful. Be sure to check them out first!
- Make sure, make sure, make sure you dry thoroughly between coats. Patience is a virtue.
- Stain your wood with a foam brush that you can by essentially anywhere--craft stores, home improvement stores--going along the grain of the wood. Do this for all painting and staining. For a dark finish underneath, use a dark stain. I used Minwax in Dark walnut. Leave the stain on for at least 15 MINUTES before you wipe it with an old t-shirt or a lint-free rag, like the one you would use to polish your car.
-Buff with a crinkled brown paper bag. You won't need to do this too intensely, but make sure you're thorough.
- If you want some of those big, antiqued stain spots, take a candle and really rub certain spots, such as the knots and the edges of the wood. However, it can be easy to forget where you rubbed with the candle, so you might want to draw up a rough diagram of a headboard and mark an X where you rubbed the candle. Rubbing with the candle will make the spot of the paint come off much easier--you'll see how well it will come off when you sand. But I would hesitate from rubbing it too much, because it makes your paint 'peel off' eventually if you do it in excess.
- Paint your headboard, giving it at least thee coats. My first coat was really thin so during my first coat I went right ahead and painted it again right then. Then I did a second and third coat. Let it dry completely between your second and third coat. I waited at least eight hours between coats.
- Once it's dry, sand your headboard BY HAND with at least 100 grit sandpaper. If you want your piece to have a more distressed look all-around and not just in certain places, sand your piece after each coat of paint dries. Just rub with your hand smoothly in strokes, and you will see how easily the paint comes off, and how it will give you that distressed look like magic. I did this for my dresser and I loved the look. However, I did not use the candle-wax method because I sanded after each coat. If you wait until after the third coat to sand, you will have to work harder, but your paint will still come off and look distressed very nicely.
- Stain the top of your paint (I used the same dark dark walnut color). Immediately rub off the stain with an old t-shirt or a lint-free rag. Rub it down to get the desired look of your stain. If you choose to have it a little less antiqued, you can skip this step.
- Finish with a Polyacrylic topcoat. They are safe and it really gives a nice, finished (and less DIY) look.
- Mount it with bolts on to your bed frame!
Cute corner cabinet!
This project took me the majority of a three-day weekend to complete, but it was well worth it! I had the lumber store cut the beadboard panel for me so that it would fit in my car. This was also the first time I built something with doors on it, which was a bit of a learning curve, but came out alright in the end. I used pocket holes to build the face frame, and attached the shelves to the frame first before attaching them to the 1x8 back. I used 1 1/4" pocket hole screws and 2" wood screws. I left off the trim at the top and didn't bother to cut out the footer, but I think it still looks pretty cute.
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Main color: Earthy Mushroom Taupe from Glidden
Everything was given a good sanding and a healthy dose of primer before painting.
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Harriet Chairs (by me)
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I'm pretty happy with the way these chairs turned out. It was a fun project as I did a few first, which included going to the fabric store (long waits) and got to tackle some upolstery for the first time! I did end up with a few glue drops that did not take the stain, so I'll be researching tips and tricks to prevant that in the future!
Also, I made these out of Popular, which pre stain was a must for cherry stain. Next time, I would use Cherry!
Thanks to Joanne S for the original post and consults regarding the upolserty!!
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Comments
Fri, 05/01/2015 - 13:29
Awesome job!
These are spectacular! Beautiful build! Love the finish and the upholstery. Also I'm super impressed that you can't see any of the filled screw holes. Would love to know the technique you used to hide them so well - I'm going to copy that! :)
JoanneS
Fri, 05/08/2015 - 12:48
Thank you
Thank you both for the nice comments. I was please with the way these turned out too, despite some glue spots not taking up the stain. I plan on getting more disciplined in this area. For hiding the screws, I finally upgraded to a real countersink like this one: http://www.rockler.com/8-pro-tapered-countersink-bit at Rockler.
Instead of always forcing a dull one in and getting a crooked openings, this razor sharp one cuts beautiful holes with no effort! But watch out, I cut myself just adjusting the depth of the drill bit. I discovered these the last time I made some wine oak barrel chairs!
Fri, 05/08/2015 - 12:53
I almost forgot...
Since I use Kreg screws for almost everything, (even non-pocket hole stuff)because they are self tapping and won't crack the would I sure my countersink matched the head of the Kreg screws and than purchased a plug hole bit. Can be used on a drill, but better on a drill press. You have to keep the drill perfectly straight or the plug can break and get stuck in the bit!
Old Door Cofee Table
This table was built out of an old 5 panel door and some scrap would that we had lying around. old hinges and knob came from a local antique store. To finish the door my wife crackled the top and clear coated it.
Rustic X Farmhouse Table
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We were able to finish this table after work one afternoon and stain it the next day. (we have a 16 month old also, so you can do it! :) ) I wanted a similar style I had found at World Market that retailed for $700 we were able to complete this entire table for $100 including all hardware and stain. LOVE it so much and get SO many compliments on it. Thanks so much!
Shelby
The Dandy Lion
Sturdy work table and tool box
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The first project I tackled from Ana White's wonderful plans was a building a sturdy work table for my miter saw that I bought at a garage sale for $25. I was using cinder blocks and plywood as a makeshift work table, and wanted an improvement on that as my first project. So, let the fun begin!
I started the project on Saturday after lunch, going to the lumber yard and picking up wood and screws for about $50. It's about the lumber limit I can haul in my Honda Civic, in the back seat, with the window open.
I followed the instructions, but found that the supports for the top were 13" not 12", and I had 3 2x4s left over (for future projects). I had some plywood in the shed, which I cut 16x40 to make a shelf. I only filled the screw holes on top with wood filler, so sawdust doesn't accumulate.
I finished the table before dinner time. The kids are getting me a bench vise for Mother's Day. Thanks kids!
On Sunday I started my second project, a tool box made out of a dowel and a 1x6 (see it on the ground in the second pic?). I cut the pieces first, then rounded the sides with the jig saw I bought at another garage sale for $3.
Everyone loves the toolbox! I plan on making one for my oldest son, and filling it with starter tools.
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Farm table
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First attempt ever at building anything! Probably took me a lot longer than it should have, but I'm very proud of the result
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Cubby Bench
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This was a very fun project to work on. One of my first ones, I chose this to replace the store bought cubby book shelf in my daughters room with something she can sit on as well as use for storage.
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Castle Bed
A big thanks to FSMumford for drawing this in Sketchup. I had to re-draw it to take into account metric wood dimensions and bed sizes here in NZ, and also to remove a foot or so from the length.
We just gave it to my daughter today, and already I need to make some modifications. I immediately put some vertical grab rails at the top of the steps and slide. The steps are too big for a toddler (she's 3 today) and I didn't take into account how thick a pillow top mattress is! I really needed to make the end guards higher. In fact, were I to make it again, I'd probably make the towers taller and lower the height of the bed by 8-12 inches. While this would lower interior room, it might make the steps a more reasonable height for a littlie. If you're building for a 5 or 6 year old, this may not be an issue. Also, it would make the angle of the slide shallower (it's a bit steep, I reckon). I used 7 sheets of 16mm MDF but if I'd laid them out like FSMumford did in her plans I would have used less. Our (one car) garage is too small and the whole build process, including painting, was a royal pain in the bum. Fun, but a pain. Speaking of painting, next time (riiiiight) I'd try to paint as much as possible before assembling. I built mine in modules but even so it's hard to get a nice coat of paint on the insides of things. Edges of MDF need to be painted and sanded at least twice to look nice. Don't underestimate the time needed to get a good finish - I spent a third of my build time finishing (mostly, again, due to limited space). A narrow foam roller is great for cutting in but doesn't seem to get enough paint on to cover well on larger areas. In places I have three coats and can still see my pencil marks. I used Dulux Aquanamel.
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inside corner wall cabinet
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First cabinet in my kitchen remodel.
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Alaskan lake cabin bench
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Im building these for a friend to sell at alameda county flea market. It takes me a couple day to do one if its on spare time
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Eagle Project Workbench - Ultimate Roll Away Workbench with Miter Saw Stand
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My son chose to make a workbench for his high school theater for his Eagle Scout project, and selected the Ultimate Roll Away Workbench with Miter Saw Stand as the basis for the project. The theater teacher wanted pegboard for tool storage, so we extended the rear legs on each workbench and notched the top to allow them to pass through. We built two frames from 1x3s to fit inside the rear legs, then put a pegboard inside each one.
To secure the extended legs, we added a riser shelf from 1x8s. We put a storage station for drills at one end of the riser shelf.
We also made all the cart shelves adjustable and added an adjustable shelf under the miter saw, and added lighting and power strips.
We left out the panels at the end of the workbench to allow access to the shelves there without having to remove the carts. Once we had constructed it, we added a brace at each end of the workbench to better support the outside front legs.
This plan was the perfect one for the theater, giving a stable work area for the miter saw and allowing for tool and materials storage. The carts can be rolled around to where a work surface is needed. This will come in handy for years of set construction in the theater. So proud of my son and all the leadership and hard work he put into this project!
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Comments
Mon, 10/18/2021 - 11:54
Proud indeed!
WOW, that is absolutely amazing, thank you so much for sharing this story!
Country Rustic Shelf
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We just bought our first home a few months ago. It is taking me a long time to decorate, because I am more picky about what goes on my walls. I saw this shelf and I knew I had to build it. It was really simple to do. I even did it without my husband, and that is huge for me. I have step by step pictures on how to make this shelf on my blog.
supersaturdayldscrafts.blogspot.com
Ana's Barn Beam Ledges are very simular, but I turned them and added molding to the front.
Just Couldn't Reach
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My son is a little short for his age and we have been searching for a stool that he could use to wash his hands by himself. I came across these simple and quick plans for an amazingly, functional stool. I spent about 4 total hours on it, made it from scraps that I already had, it looks great and it hold me too... all 230 lbs.
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Minwax stain and poly.
flag garden bench
wife and I call this our memory garden bench. our son passed away last year he was a SFC in the us army. we sit upon to remember all the good times.
Comments
My entry way bench in Hickory
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The Shelf Help app helped me customize this to my space, the plans were excellent. Thank you!
Comments
Sat, 10/23/2021 - 17:14
Thank you for sharing!
We are so happy you tried out Shelf Help! It looks amazing~