Community Brag Posts

Great plan! I curved the edges with a French curve and a bench sanding disk, and then used a router on all exposed edges. I used a dremel router table with a small bit for the small pine pieces and a full sized router for the two main platforms. If I were to do it again I’d be far more careful with angle accuracy.. I think my miter saw is a little off. My table saw was spot on for the plywood cuts. I also used smaller wheels and only have spinners on the front, preventing collision.

I had been looking everywhere for an antique Mid Century Modern buffet table to use as a changing table for my daughter but found that these vintage pieces ran about $1200 to $3000 and still needed refinishing. That was out of my price range so I came here and found plans for a console table that had the look I was going for.

The plan I found was too short in length and height so I reworked them a little to fit my needs. I just added a second cabinet in the same dimensions as the first onto the other end of the drawers to increase the length and bought 12" legs instead of 6" ones to increase the height. I used the same hardware that was recommended in the original plans but added a magnetic door stopper to make the cabinet doors flush with the frame when closed. I also added dowel rods in the cabinets because my daughter doesn't have a closet and I needed a place to hang her clothes.

It is great to have 2 cabinets because the left side holds clothes that are too big for her and the right holds all of the clothes she wears now. The drawers are nice and deep so I can put all her changing stuff like diapers and lotion in the top and fit all her socks, diaper covers, and pajamas in the other drawers.

I will say that I used 1x6's to make the drawers first but found that I am really bad at picking straight boards as there were a lot of gaps between the sides and the bottom of the drawer. I went back and used scrap pieces of 3/4" plywood for the drawer sides and they came out much better with no gaps, plus, the exposed top of the drawer sides look better.

This was a fairly fast project. I put it as a weekend project due to the down time between staining and poly coats. It was my first time working with edge banding and I loved it. It was super easy and kind of relaxing! Over-all, this project was easy and fun! This table meets all of my needs AND it looks great! Thanks Ana for the plans and thanks Brooke for the inspiration and tips!

I added an additional detached shelf so we can change the setup anytime. I also increased the space between the two main shelves to 30 inches and extended the depth to 22 inches overall. I left one shelf off to make room for the computer tower. The top is made from maple with a gunstock stain. This desk will mainly be for my kids gaming station. 

This was a blast to build. This was all a gift for my wife since the traditional 5th anniversary gift is wood.

The coffee table and console are both awesome! The only thing I would change/modify is the end table, because its kinda big and doesn't really look its part of the set other than the "X". I would maybe take about 2 or 3 inches off all sides or maybe 3 off the sides so its not such a box.

I built this trunk for my grandson’s high school graduation, and filled it with a lot of things he might need as he begins his life in the U.S. Air Force. Here are a few hints:
• Build the top after you place the moulding around the top of the box so you can measure exactly how long and wide the top needs to be.
• Don’t forget to measure the width of the 1” x 6” boards; if they are not exactly 5 ½”, adjust the length of the vertical boards on the trunk top or it could be slightly too small.
• Because of the extra width the moulding creates around the perimeter of the box, use narrow utility hinges, piano hinges, or Beverly of bzhays used black decorative strap hinges from Amazon.com.
• I used black handles from Amazon.com: Reliable Hardware Company RH-0540BK-2-A Set of 2 Chest Handle, Black
• For a more finished top on the inside, I filled the holes with wood putty and sanded it smooth, then stained and polyed like the outside of the trunk. The kreg holes are still visible, but not too much.
• Before screwing the box together, I recommend finishing the inside surfaces first; cover the edges that will meet with painter’s tape so the glue will have bonding surfaces.

I love the rustic look most have used in their finishes, but since I used a traditional stained finish, I used the ideas from Justin of jeverette1 who covered the exposed plywood edges with scrap. Since I didn’t have that, I used corner moulding for the corners, and lattice strips to cover the top edges of the box. This gives the trunk a more finished look if you are not going for the rustic/distressed look. I notated below a week-long project - I spend a lot of time in the finishing and do so over several days. Others could certainly finish in a weekend.

I’d like to thank Ana for the wonderful plans, and Whitney of Shanty 2 Chic for the great step-by-steps. Also, a big thank you to Beverly of bzhays and Justin of jeverette1 for responding to me with my questions; you were both so helpful.

This project was really pretty easy. The hardest part was holding the pieces just right so they ended up where we wanted once the kreg jig hole screws went in. Also, we had to be sure not to overtighten the screws and cause splitting.

We did have to make two adjustments to the plans. I think the first was a typo...where it says 2 - 1x2 @ 15 3/4" (door sides) they should actually be 1x3 based on the images.

The second adjustment was the plywood for the back 17 3/4" x 21" ended up too wide for the end to fit on, so we made it 17 3/4" x 20"

Made with western red cedar from Lowes. So pretty!

This project was very fun, and it was my first nightstand. The directions are so easy to follow. Thanks Ana : )

Modified the standard farmhouse king plan a bit. Made the headboard 4" taller and utilized 1x4's and 1x3's to fill in the headboard instead of 1x8's. I used 2x8 from front to back for the runners and horizonal 2x6's just under the lip of the 2x8 for the matress to sit on. It turned out great and we get lots of compliments. 

This was my first project from ana white. Thank you for making such great and easy to follow plans! I will be making the matching coffee table next!

Build Instructions:
http://www.instructables.com/id/Simple-Stackable-Compost-Bin-from-Palle…

How it works:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Tgtd88kKIn0

With one single unit as opposed to two or three bins, the space needed for composting is minimized. Each tier stacks on top of the other, latching together to make the bin. This setup makes it easy to turn and rotate the compost, since moving the collars is simple. Just remove the top collar and place in a new location adjacent to the original bin location. Turn the compost into the new location and stack the collars until finished. This is a great alternative to having multiple compost bins next to each other.

I live in an apartment, so I had everything cut for me at the nearby hardware store except the trimming. I scaled it so that it fits in my living room. It was my first woodworking project since high school, but I’m happy with how it tuned out. Thank you so much for the easy to understand instructions!!