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Table was built using refinished tops from an old table/bench set. Cedar was used for the base of the table and benches. Also created two half-size benches that can be used to add seating at the table, or moved to the living room when additional seating is needed there. Finished with mahogany stain and several coats of clear gloss polyurethane.

Such great and easy to follow plans. Even for a beginner like me. I did both projects in stages at my own pace and time. It probably could have been finished in a weekend, if I worked steady and straight through. Also if you are good and know exactly what you are doing, definitely in a weekend(haha). I just took my time and worked in baby steps, working through both plans. I am very pleased with the outcome. I did change a few things but that was my preference. I attempted to contour the chair seat, not bad but definitely not great. I used a handheld grinder with about 60 grit sandpaper to make the mold. If you are good and have a very very steady hand this can work. I have a router but not a jig for that type of pattern. All in all though I was very pleased with the outcome and so was my little Hannah. Thanks for this great website and keep up the great ideas.

I did a few thing different than the plan calles for. I used kiln dried douglas fir 2x8's and ripped them to remove the rounded mill edge. For the stretcher I used 4x4 rather than the 2x4. Where the bread board is attached I put a very small bevel at the joining edges of the bread board and table to create a visual distinction.

I built this using scrap 2x2s and 1x4s that I ripped down to the appropriate sizes. Also instead of using pocket holes I counter sunk the screws and filled with wood filler.

Great results from this plan. The additional mitered top is easy as long as you can get a good 45 degrees on your saw. If you decide to do the top piece, glue the 4 mitered pieces together and clamp for a couple of hours in order to make sure the angles set correctly. Once the glue is dry, then attach to the top of your planter with glue and nails. I built 2 planters, including the mitered top edges, in about 5 hours.

I made this book shelf with a reading nook for my daughters nursery. I found one you can buy online for $250 and decided I could make it for much less. I used 1 x12’s and the cushions were made by my mother and grandmother. All together it cost about $65 to make. 

After a rough start when my MDF beadboard flew off the roof of my car in a huge gust of wind and tore in half... and the lumber yard not selling 1x3's so I had to use a 1x4 for the header.... my boys were really excited to see their new bookshelf this morning. I omitted the bun feet for now, and elected not to do a cutout on the header.

The MDF I used is 1/4 inch beadboard because my local lumber store didn't have 1/4 inch plywood in stock. I love how it looks, and it didn't add a lot of weight. The price was comparable to 1/4 inch plywood too. But it did tear and luckily one of the pieces was long enough to use as the backing. Barely.

Except for the footer pieces and backing which were nailed on, the whole thing was built with my new Kreg jig! :-)

I built cedar raised beds out of cedar decking, 3 pieces 5/4" x 6" x 8', actual dimensions were 1" x 5.5" x 8', plus 1 - 2 x 4 cedar. I made 48" x 96" boxes. I cut 1 of the cedar deck pieces into 2 - 48" long pieces. For the corners, I cut the 2 x 4 into 8 - 5.5" long pieces. I then screwed 2 of the 2 x 4 pieces together to form a 4 x 4 block. I used these as the inside corner to screw the decking to. The total cost was $60 to build 2 cedar beds. The other option would have been to make them double height, by cutting the 2 x 4's 11 inches long. This is more expensive then the boxes Ana did, but I could not find cedar fence slats, they appeared to be Northern White Pine which would have deteriorated quickly. I obtained the lumber from Lowes.

I built 2 end tables to go with my park bench. I had a lot of trouble with splitting wood, because the 1x2s where so thin. I'm used to more robust lumber. I tried something new. I drilled pocket holes, sanded, primed and painted everything before I assembled. I don't like painting as much, because I love using power tools. I psyched myself out by thinking I was giving it an elegant finish. Sounds so much nicer than slapping some paint on wood.

My son made some tic-tac-toe pieces from scrap treated lumber, by painting black X's on one side and white O's on the other. Now we can play on the end table!

Ana White's site is wonderful with downloadable, step-by-step shopping list, cut list and instructions.

#AnaWhite #GetBuilding2015

Built triple pedestal farmhouse table and benches from plan, and added 2 end benches.

I LOVE the farmhouse table! Ours is an "almost farmhouse" since we didn't do our top with individual boards. For the table top, we used hardwood plywood and select pine 1x2 for edges. To get the Farmhouse look with a stain effect, I brushed on Minwax Express color in Walnut to get the appearance of long boards, applied 5 coats of poly, and put 2 coats of primer and paint on the legs of the table we already have. We attached the tabletop with glue and screws.

This fun patriotic caddy was created with some small modifications to the plans that inspired this project : Ana White's Soda Caddy . I added a space for napkins to my version.

This is my take on a classic rope and ring disentanglement puzzle. The goal is to separate the ring (the light colored one) from the puzzle strings. As with most disentanglement puzzles, the solution isn’t intuitive. Can you figure it out from the pictures? If not, refer to the video for the solution.

Build Instructions: https://www.instructables.com/id/Disentanglement-Puzzle/
Solution: https://youtu.be/cwdpTndAEw8

I used a combined/modified version of the Logan and Kristen's modified version as well. The opening in the middle houses the mirror currently, but was designed to fit a 27" flat panel tv when Ceira is older (maybe, LOL). I used regular pine to build it. I built it in two pieces (top and bottom). I couldn't put a back on it, as the heater (baseboard) is there, as well as outlets, and I didn't want to have to move either one. I adjusted the top portion to be slightly wider to cover the distance between the wall and the base bookshelves. This actually worked out well, as when we do eventually install a tv, we will be able to install and hide the wiring easily, and without having to add/move electrical outlets. I made sure to attach the shelves to the studs behind the wall as I am convinced some child, at some point will attempt to climb them. :)
Things I learned from this project - paint BEFORE assembling. This was a huge pain to get inside all of the upper shelves after it was already installed. Also - I hadn't had the carpeting installed at the time I built the shelves (it came about 2 weeks later). Make sure you either do your flooring first, or keep enough scrap flooring to cover the space behind the bottom shelves and under the radiator. Fortunately, I had enough (this time).