Community Brag Posts

I made this coop twice as wide like Ana suggested since I have 4 chickens and wanted to make sure there was some extra wiggle room in case “chicken math” got the best of us. I made a nesting box to mount on the outside. I also used plywood for the sides like Ana did in the video. I installed a Run Chicken automatic door that opens at sunrise and closes at sunset. I added some hasps and clasps to make sure all my doors would close tightly. I put hardware cloth across the top before installing the roof panels. I stapled and buried hardware cloth around the perimeter for predator protection. I also spray painted the hardware cloth flat black so that it would be easier for us to see inside the coop. I stained the rest of the wood with Varathane Semi-Transparent stain, color “Carbon Gray.” I also added some roosts and cedar shingle siding for some extra protection during our New England winters at to match our house. Working 2-4 hours a day, off and on, with a bum shoulder and weak hands, this took me about a week! Thanks for the great plan, Ana!

Super easy project. My space is smaller so I modified to 6ft instead of the 8ft used in the plana. I plan to make the white board crates to finish the project. 

We needed a table for the breakfast nook in our new home that we will be moving to in June. We were so excited about this table that we built it ahead of time and sold our other dining room table. We love this table! Thank you so much for the awesome plans.

Farmhouse table made from distressed (worm hole) maple.

My neighbor was able to get me the 5/4 distressed maple for about $2/bd ft - I ended up buying 100 board feet and had plenty leftover. The finished board feet for this project was about 60 if I remember correctly. So the $200 was the bulk of the expense. The only other costs were sand paper, I bought a Kreg Jig, screws, Minwax Marker, paint, stain and urethane (much of which I already had).

It came out better than I anticipated. The antique white finish was not difficult at all.

Tip - When following the instructions for the finish here, I applied the first coat of urethane with a brush almost immediately after applying the Minwax marker to all of the sanded edges. I did this in haste, but ended up with some unexpected results that really added a nice touch. The stain from the marker incorporated a bit into the urethane as I brushed it giving it an antique, yellow hue. At first I thought I made a big mistake, but it turned out to add a really nice look.

Our son moved up to a big boy room and we made him the Fire Station bed. He LOVES it. Not quite ready for him to use it as a loft bed so he is sleeping on the bottom for now.

Kaity

I attached the tilt out portion using a Kreg jig and eventually removed the brace (it wasn't necessary and removing the brace gave it a cleaner look.

I used 2 x 2 as a trim around the outside which also allowed me to hide the hinge.

Other than that -- followed the build pretty closely. I used a cable on either side to stop the tilt out from falling to the floor (which allows me to leave it open as well.

This was my first project and it was a battle to figure out how to install the hinges and I did not love my jig saw work with the plan feet so I bought and installed furniture replacement feet which turned out much nicer (IMO).

Good luck!

I built two 3 person outdoor sofa's and a coffee table as per your plans. It is sitting nicely inside the pergola we build last fall. I built a grill table too, to match the others. Thank You.

Took be about 2.5 weeks to build this bed, working evenings and a couple full days on the weekend. I HIGHLY recommend getting a Kreg Jig. It made life so much easier.

To go from a queen to a king, simply add 16" to all of the width pieces. All of the length pieces will be the same for a queen and king.

I added one 2x2 support beam down the middle of the bed, with two 16 3/4 inch legs attached to it, for added support.  I screwed the slats into all 3 of the 2x2 support beams.

The drawers are the trickiest part. Make sure you follow the plan in order, waiting to install the drawers until after you have screwed the storage bins to the headboard and footboard.

I used the Ana White "Country Kitchen Island" plans to build.  The only changes I made was the table top, bead board instead of pine planks, three drawers, and mostly 3/4" plywood.  For the island top, i used the top of a maple desk and applied butcher block oil.  To make things easier I used plywood to keep everything square and used bead board (very easy to install) instead of having to join boards together.  After putting the shelves together I just used pine boards to cover the edges of the plywood.  I also installed three drawers for convenient storage.  

This project was a bit of a challenge. My garage has uneven flooring and a concrete lip around the edge of wall so I had to make the back legs 10 inches shorter than the front. Overall, it turned out well and everything is completely leveled much to my amazement. I'm thinking of making more shelves on the other end of the garage to free up more space.

This was my first project ever. I had a lot of fun and it didn't quite turn out right but next time it will be perfect.

I used 1x3 box pine instead of 2x4's for the bits that things sit on, and everything fits perfectly.

Originally I was planning on a 3.6m long x 0.6m deep X 1.8m high shelf.  At the lumberyard I found out that 2x4's came in 6m lengths as standard, so I adjusted this to 1.5m high instead, which worked out fine as I think 1.8m would have been a bit tall to get heavy things on top of.  Luckily for me my power points and light switches were just under this, which I didn't think about at the time!

Originally I was going to try and cut grooves for the 'rungs' of the ladder frames to slot into, hence the insets at the bottoms of the legs.  I think that the glue-and-screw construction will be plenty strong enough, though.

This took me about 4 hours to put together, and cost about NZD$170 all up, which is about USD$120.

I've got the bug.  Making things is awesome.