Community Brag Posts

Chair Build with Loveseat Modification

Submitted by Joshh81 on Sat, 09/02/2017 - 12:26

Built the 2 chairs according to the plans, and then modified it for a bench that's 48" (our cushions are 23.5 x 23.5). Worked really well!

Estimated Time Investment
Weekend Project (10-20 Hours)
Recommended Skill Level
Beginner

Comments

Seasonal And Holiday

Farmstyle Table based on Ana's plans

Submitted by NaasMarais on Tue, 09/12/2017 - 02:03

This table is made out of Solid Oak and took me +- 6 weeks to complete.

Thanks to Ana White for the plans as I followed them to the "t" with some minor changes in the size

Final size is 10ft long x 47 1/4 inch wide and 29 9/64 inches high

Built from Plan(s)
Estimated Time Investment
Week Long Project (20 Hours or More)
Finish Used
Rubio Monocoat Oil 2C - Natural Color
Recommended Skill Level
Beginner

Bunk beds

Submitted by Anonymous (not verified) on Mon, 10/11/2021 - 08:03

Double bed at bottom, twin at top, still have to make the ladder

Comments

Modern Slat Top Outdoor Wood Bench

Submitted by ckaye on Sun, 07/07/2013 - 18:38

We wanted an outdoor bench for our front entrance way, this one is just what we were looking for! Thank you for the plans.

Estimated Time Investment
Day Project (6-9 Hours)
Finish Used
2" x 6" Spruce Black Stain
Recommended Skill Level
Beginner

Comments

beardjulie

Wed, 05/04/2016 - 10:01

I am really a novice. The plans say that the 1x4's should be 18-1/2" high? But the measurement of the vertical legs are 14", and the horizontal piece is 4" high, which adds to 18". It all looks flush in the photo. Could you explain what I am missing? Thank you so much!

beardjulie

Wed, 05/04/2016 - 10:01

I am really a novice. The plans say that the 1x4's should be 18-1/2" high? But the measurement of the vertical legs are 14", and the horizontal piece is 4" high, which adds to 18". It all looks flush in the photo. Could you explain what I am missing? Thank you so much!

In reply to by beardjulie

Rudystawarek

Wed, 05/04/2016 - 11:30

So from what i see in the plans Each 1x4 board is to be cut at 18" and the 2x4 is to be cut at 14-1/2". Cutting the 2x4 at 14-1/2" will insure the 1x4 and 2x4 are fluish for the end product. It doesnt seem to add up given the demensional names of the lumber hahaha however the actual width of a 2x4 (the one the will be going horizontal) is acutally 3-1/2". so then you cut you 2x4 leg piece at 14-1/2" and then lay the horizontal 2x4 on top the total height will be 18" and should be flush with your 1x4 that is cut at 18"

beardjulie

Fri, 05/27/2016 - 14:04

That is too funny! That is a dead give away that I'm new at this! Thanks you!

beardjulie

Fri, 05/27/2016 - 14:04

That is too funny! That is a dead give away that I'm new at this! Thanks you!

DIY PLANTER BOXES WITH PALLET WOOD

We picked up a couple 14.9" square plastic garden planters from Home Depot and ended up creating some wood planter boxes from pallet wood for them to sit in. 

I didn't add up the cost of these boxes, because we had most of the wood and only needed a few pieces, but I'd say they were definitely less than $10 a box. 

We altered our dimensions to fit our HD planters so they would slip in for a snug fit and made the legs flush with the top of our sides. We build a simple frame for the top, which allowed the lip of our HD planters to sit firmly on top. 

Something I didn't do, but wish I did: fill in the cracks with wood filler.  There were a couple places that really could have used it, but I was in a rush and decided to skip it.  They turned out great, but could have been even better had I taken an extra 30 minutes.  On an off weekend, we are going to use wood filler in the seams, sand them down, and do a second coat of white paint. 

Can't wait to plant these with some mums for Fall! :)

Built from Plan(s)
Estimated Cost
$20 total for 2 boxes.
Estimated Time Investment
Day Project (6-9 Hours)
Finish Used
White Semi-Gloss outdoor paint
Recommended Skill Level
Beginner

Farmhouse Table

Inspiration for this project came from the original Restoration Hardware table's price, which was way out of our budget. We found the plans on this site, and then the brag post from http://tommyandellie.com/?p=2582, which convinced me to give it a try when we moved to our new house.
I pulled some ideas and techniques from a couple of different areas - one was the idea from American Woodworker to use a straight-edge and a router to joint the edges of adjacent boards so they match perfectly, or as close to perfect as possible (see one of the pictures). After a few false starts it worked out very well.
One other big change was to use 4x4 pieces for the legs and cross-braces - especially on the long cross-brace. With two kids (6 and 3) and a third on the way, I knew they would want to crawl under the table to play, and sit on the beams - and I was afraid a 2x4 wouldn't hold up to their weights. I've VERY happy with the result - that base is not moving or flexing at all.
Finally, I learned a TON about what NOT to do! Apparently after doing the dry fit and having everything fit well, you should not sand the parts of the boards that fit together or suddenly they will be loose! Also, wiping off the stain after the suggested amount of time IS a good idea, after all! Finally, we ended up using pine boards with fir 4x4's, and I wish we had used all fir as I think the grain pattern was nicer.
All in all, though, it was a great experience and I can't wait to tackle another project!

Estimated Cost
$200-$300
Estimated Time Investment
Week Long Project (20 Hours or More)
Finish Used
Minwax wood conditioner followed by 2 coats of Minwax Walnut stain, sanding lightly between coats at 240 grit. After stain dries, one coat of Varathane sanding sealer, sanding again at 240 grit. Then, Varathane water-based poly, 2 or three coats followed by light sanding at 400 grit (or between individual coats if it was past 12 hours from the last application) - followed by one final coat of poly. If I had known then what I know now, I would have used oil-based poly - I didn't realize there was a difference when I purchased the items. I also used foam brushes for each step.
Recommended Skill Level
Beginner

Comments

Rob Dunham

Mon, 08/05/2013 - 07:13

Excellent work. I am purchasing lumber today to build a table for my family as well. Thanks for the tip of routing the joint edges, I will give that a go for sure.
Cheers!

Fred KLauke

Mon, 08/05/2013 - 14:52

Thanks Rob, good luck! Below is the link to the original source for the technique I used (#8 in the list). Just be VERY sure you have the boards (and the straightedge) clamped tightly so there's no wiggling. The first time I did it I didn't have the straightedge tight enough and it wiggled loose at one end, so the router started biting into one board more than the other, making a curve. Once I got the layout figured out, however, it worked very well and I was very pleased with it - I even did it again with the ends of the long boards (after they were glued/screwed together) and the inside edge of the breadboards before attaching them.

http://americanwoodworker.com/blogs/techniques/archive/2009/08/26/10-tr…

AKite

Thu, 08/15/2013 - 19:38

Did you use a planer on your Fir 2x's?
I'm thinking I need a planer to level out some of the 2x10's and 2x12's at my lumber store.

In reply to by AKite

Nathan1342

Fri, 08/16/2013 - 08:05

If your using a hand planer your going to get more of a worn uneven look, it's nearly impossible to get a perfect straight board after using a hand planer. IF you run it through a floor standing planer whatever bend in the board will still be there since it follows the contour of the board. If you want a straight board regardless of size you need to straighten it with a tablesaw. I am sure you can find a million how to's by just googling "how to straighten a board with a tablesaw". When your using building lumber you will always have an issue with things not being straight and looking "rough". It may be easier to just goto a actual lumber store and buy something that isn't Pine. Pine is a soft wood which is likely to dent easily after being used. But regardless, if you want a straight board use a tablesaw. I bought a bosch table saw at lowes and its awesome. folds up against my wall and is probably the best tool i have bought. Decent ones run about 400 bucks but its well worth it with what it allows you to do.

Fred KLauke

Fri, 08/16/2013 - 07:53

Not beforehand... (just to be clear, my 2x's were all white pine, only the 4x4's were Fir - unfortunately, the local Menards only had pine 2x's and fir 4x's) - I spent a lot of time at the store picking out the straightest, least cupped/curved boards I could find, and then spent more time at home arranging them to make sure the boards with the longest straightness (is that a term?) were used for the long pieces. Once the top was put together, I used a straightedge to find the humps and valleys in the top and used a hand plane to level them out a bit (see the background of the picture with the completed base, you can see the shavings on the top). I would suggest, if you do the hand plane route and aren't familiar with the tool or don't own one, to either borrow a well-tuned one from someone who would show you how to use it, or prepare to spend money to get a good one. You probably don't want to do what I did, which was buy a cheapo Stanley from Menards and then spend probably 8-10 hours over the course of a week or so trying to get it setup properly. I finally got it useable, but it was a very frustrating process and it didn't take long before the newly-sharpened edge was dull again. I did finally get it smooth enough so that it was easy to slide a plate or dish from one side of the table to the other without it rocking or hitting an edge/bump, but if I had it to do over again I would have saved the time and spent the money on a good older Stanley or a newer Lie-Nielsen or Lee Valley, etc., and then spent a lot less time getting the plane ready to go.
One thing that helped my mind-set as I went through the process was to remember that the beauty of this style is that it is not supposed to be perfect - a farmhouse table is supposed to look a little rough and worn, and the little defects are part of it's charm. It's an important point to remember especially if you are a bit of a perfectionist as I am!

Buffet, serving table

I made this buffet, serving table to go with a large gathering farmhouse table I made. I loosely used the farmhouse table plans but did some designing of my own based on a picture my friends had of what she wanted.

Estimated Time Investment
Weekend Project (10-20 Hours)
Finish Used
Varathane - Kona stain
Recommended Skill Level
Intermediate

Split Chevron Trestle Table

Submitted by rbgreene04 on Wed, 04/18/2018 - 22:32

I followed the X-table plans for the base and then went a little nutty on the table top. I also beefed up the bottom stretcher on the base as I felt it complemented the 4x4s used for the feet well. I left off the diagonal braces as I liked the contrast of the beefy legs and stretcher and the open airy appearance between the base and tabletop. There were several blogs/ideas on Pinterest about a Chevron style table top. I took pieces from all of them for my design. The table measures 99.75 inches long by 41 inches wide. I thought being a quarter inch under 100 was a bit quirky and did it merely for that reason. Oh and please forgive the photo bomb by my daughters. I could not take a picture without getting at least one of them in the frame. My oldest is being a little silly in the pic trying to show the detail of the Chevron design--or split Chevron as I'm calling it. 

Built from Plan(s)
Estimated Cost
Under $100
Estimated Time Investment
Weekend Project (10-20 Hours)
Finish Used
My last outdoor table failed miserably (it was a beautiful design IMO, of plywood strips layed on edge to create a striated table top). I finished that failure with spar urethane specifically for boats. But plywood, while extremely stable indoors, is a terrible choice for outdoors. Lesson learned. For this table I used a deck stain and sealer. It's Olympic Maximum in Canyon Brown color. Hopefully I'll have better luck!
Recommended Skill Level
Beginner

Comments

Great Shelves - made to measure!

Submitted by tailspin10 on Fri, 09/04/2015 - 08:54

Thanks for the plans Ana!

I stuck to the design but changed the dimensions to suit the space and the boxes we intend to store. This made the shelves 7.5 feet high by 8.5 feet wide. The timber was supplied in 17’ lengths so this also meant very little wastage. The frame is composed of 2x4’s, the shelves are 4.5 x 1.5’s  - as I wanted the shelves slightly shallower this meant I could get away with three boards for each shelf instead of 4 as on the plans. 

For the short cross pieces I used woodglue and screws – to attach the long shelf pieces I just used screws. I predrilled holes in the first piece for each of the screws, but I didn’t drill a pilot hole in the next piece, the screws were self-tapping and didn’t need one.

The back wall is concrete block and I screwed each upright to the wall using wall plugs and screws. I’ve 2 young children and as the shelves are quite high I was afraid they might climb on them and tip them over otherwise. The attachment to the wall definitely makes the whole thing feel much sturdier – the structure is completely rigid.

The only real issue I encountered was that some of the boards were slightly twisted or warped – and I had to apply some force to keep everything square when I was gluing up. Overall I’m very happy with the end product, and found it reasonably easy to put together. Now its time to put the shelves to good use and start tidying up the garage!

Estimated Cost
$180 including screws - I'm in Ireland and unfortunately wood seems to be more expensive here :-(
Estimated Time Investment
Day Project (6-9 Hours)
Finish Used
I gave it a quick wipe of some old danish oil I was going to throw out, I'm not that bothered about finish as the shelves are in the garage.
Recommended Skill Level
Beginner

Modern Adirondack chair

Submitted by Anonymous (not verified) on Tue, 05/10/2022 - 15:53

I had a customer ask if I could make a chair , they sent me a picture and I used your,and another persons chairs as my pattern, I made a few adjustments for my liking. Turned out great, thanks for always sharing and inspiring your ideas

Comments

Farmhouse Queen Bed and Fancy X desk

Submitted by musickbox on Thu, 09/05/2013 - 13:00

We built the Farmhouse queen bed and fancy X desk for our bedroom. It was relatively easy and looks so great! The bed is made of pine and cedar. (It is really really hard to find pine 4x4 posts that aren't pressure treated around here.) We used pine for the desk. Paint color on the bed and base of the desk is Behr "Polar bear" with a coffee stain distress. The desk top is Benjamin Moore "Dash of pepper." The bed cost about $175 to build and the desk cost $30. (We used a lot of scraps for the desk.)

Estimated Time Investment
Weekend Project (10-20 Hours)
Finish Used
Behr Polar Bear paint, Benjamin Moore Dash of Pepper paint, coffee stain distress.
Recommended Skill Level
Beginner

Comments

JoanneS

Thu, 09/05/2013 - 17:03

Your bed and desk are beautiful! Great job on this build, and I love the colors!

My Simple Outdoor Sink

Submitted by kmatt55 on Sun, 08/14/2011 - 16:46

I finally completed the last piece to my customized simple two-toned outdoor collection...an outdoor kitchen sink!!! It still needs a couple of touch ups... but more on that later. This is by far my favorite and easiest project to date. We plan on using this as a grill caddie/garden station. This will eventually go onto a 24x12 deck up against our kitchen window (The indoor and outdoor sink will be against each others backs). I decided to go with the Sturdy Workbench plans for the base mainly because of the weight. We wanted something that's going to be difficult to move since it will be hooked up to outdoor plumbing. I used treated 2x4's for the base, cedar 1x4's for the top. I bought the bar sink for about $70. I also used a Kreg Jig to screw in the cedar slats from underneath so the screws won't be visible from the top. FYI - Wait a couple of weeks before you paint soaking wet treated wood. The green chemical from the 2x4 is starting to leak through my white paint. I'll have to go and prime/paint it again when it finally dries. Other than that, it came out 10 times better than I could ever imagine.

Built from Plan(s)
Estimated Cost
$120 ($70 for sink and hardware)
Estimated Time Investment
Weekend Project (10-20 Hours)
Finish Used
Thompson's Water Sealer, semi-gloss exterior white paint.
Recommended Skill Level
Beginner

Comments

Vegasboiz

Sun, 09/29/2013 - 08:16

I love the sink table a lot. I have been looking for one for a long time. Can you tell me what is the length, width, and height for this table. Thank you very much. Jimmy

Fancy Jewelry Box built by my daughter and me

Submitted by wowmom_cs on Tue, 05/07/2019 - 09:25

My 10 year old daughter is always creating. She recently decided that she wanted to do a woodworking project with me. We started by searching online for a design that looked doable and came up with the Fancy Jewelry Box from the Ana White website.

We decided that using the full thickness of 1x stock gave the piece a bit more of a clunky look than we were after. And since I have a thickness plainer, we milled our stock down to just under 1/2”. But that meant that we had to rework many of the measurements on the plan. This also made the drawers deeper and wider. Which is nice. A happy mistake happened when, while rough cutting the individual pieces before milling them down, I inadvertently cut the pieces between the drawers too narrow. We ended up turning them 90 degrees which allowed them to fit. This is why you see the end grain on those pieces. But we like it.

We also altered the plan a bit so that the edges of the plywood on the faces of the drawers and doors do not show. We added a nice border to the top of the box with a curved router bit. We lined the drawers with felt and then added some dividers here and there using some scraps of oak which we sawed thin with a bandsaw.

The original plan was to paint the box, as opposed to staining it. It wasn't until after I had nailed on the top and the drawer fronts that my daughter decided she wanted to stain it. That's why you can see those nail holes!

We had such fun making this Jewelry box. 

Built from Plan(s)
Estimated Cost
I don't remember. Not much.
Estimated Time Investment
Week Long Project (20 Hours or More)
Finish Used
Stain and water based polyurethane. We used 2 coats of poly "sanding" it between coats with fine steel wool.
Recommended Skill Level
Beginner

Comments

A successful build!

Submitted by Anonymous (not verified) on Sun, 04/30/2023 - 14:52

I decided to make beds for my kids after looking at ones to purchase that all had bad reviews about the sturdiness.
Thank you for providing such comprehensive plans here. I have never built anything from scratch before, and this project was a lot of fun. I'll be starting a second one this week.

Comments

Washer Dryer Pedestals Bases

This pedestal base for the washer and dryer really created the perfect opportunity to organize and declutter our tiny laundry room. Had to resize it a bit to fit the space but it turned out perfect! I added a super easy top for an even counter space and bought some stock laundry room cabinets to sit in the back for extra storage. Such an upgrade!

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