Community Brag Posts

We are in the unique position of having stairs in our bedroom and they take up quite a lot of room. We considered putting a chair and set of drawers under the stairs but they would have looked cramped.

Having done some research we found some photos where people had built benches under the stairs.  It was around this time that we found Ana White's plan for framing up a mud room bench in a nook (which for some reason I can't add to the 'built from' section). We had to adapt it as the original plan was framed by 3 walls and due to the angle of the stairs we could only use 2 and added legs. We also had to add triangular panels to give it that built-in look.

We were able to complete the build for relatively cheap as we kept a ton of 2x2 from when we removed a 60s built in wardrobe and was able to rebuild it. If you look behind the drawers you can even see that the wood is notched from the wardrobe hinges but in a nice way it keeps the old owners work in the house.

Added a little extra back rest. Made a double chair in the process of making a 3 cushion couch.

Slightly more elegant version of an outdoor cedar patio table. This is made from 100% cedar and joined using Kreg pocket hole screws. The finish is 2 coats of Sikkens Cetol MRD that has been hand rubbed on using a cloth, with 24 hours of dry time between coats.

Saw the other project and based everything off of that. I made some adjustments on the shelf side to ensure I could lay down 3 layers of 2x6's without it hanging off too far. At first I wasn't going to go with the rail shelf system, but I couldn't find anything that I liked at the store to make actually shelves. I did cut a 2* angle on the bottom and top of the shelf framing. I figured if I put enough weight on those shelves, I woudln't want it messing with the frame of the cart too much. On the bin side, I decided to just do different heights instead of angled because I know I'll have plenty of 3' plus. I chose to put a scrap bin on the end for anything smaller than a foot. Many of those joints were done with my Kreg setup, but not all of them. The last fix I did was add a 2x4 to the insde of the shelf frame. This was to move the shelf hangers in so that an 8' board wasn't just edge to edge (I found that to be a problem when I put some of the 1x4's on there...they would be on 2, but not always all 3). So moving each side in around 1.5" gives you about 3" to play with as far as 8' lumber goes. This enabled me to turn my old storage into bench and shelves and I'm ready to get moving on projects!

Modern Farmhouse Dining Room Table (with pocket hole) and 2x4 chairs with plans reposted from morelikehome.net.

Surfed the site for the right plans and dove right in. Thank you for the inspiration all!

I finally completed the last piece to my customized simple two-toned outdoor collection...an outdoor kitchen sink!!! It still needs a couple of touch ups... but more on that later. This is by far my favorite and easiest project to date. We plan on using this as a grill caddie/garden station. This will eventually go onto a 24x12 deck up against our kitchen window (The indoor and outdoor sink will be against each others backs). I decided to go with the Sturdy Workbench plans for the base mainly because of the weight. We wanted something that's going to be difficult to move since it will be hooked up to outdoor plumbing. I used treated 2x4's for the base, cedar 1x4's for the top. I bought the bar sink for about $70. I also used a Kreg Jig to screw in the cedar slats from underneath so the screws won't be visible from the top. FYI - Wait a couple of weeks before you paint soaking wet treated wood. The green chemical from the 2x4 is starting to leak through my white paint. I'll have to go and prime/paint it again when it finally dries. Other than that, it came out 10 times better than I could ever imagine.

This my expanded Christmas Stocking tree. With a growing family we needed room for at least 9 stockings. I decided to hope for one more and made it large enough for 10. Decided to make the sides look more like a candy cane and added red stripes. Thanks to Ana for the ideas.

RBM

We followed the plans for the A-frame chicken coop very closely, and then modified it a bit at the end.

1. Trim was added to two doors on each side, as suggested. They are secured with latches at the top, more to keep them from falling open than to keep critters from getting in. We used 2x4x10's instead of 2x4x8's on the middle horizontal rail, giving us foot-long handles on each side. My husband and I are able to move the coop about 15 feet at a time, which is pretty good considering it is STURDY!

2. We used 1/2" galvanized hardware cloth instead of chicken wire, as suggested by one commenter (and lots of others in blogland).

3. I cut 1/4" plywood to fit the loft space and coated it with vinyl stick-on tile. This should make it easier to clean. We didn't screw down the plywood, so if we have to, we can remove it to hose it off/scrub it.

4. I cut a triangle of plywood to make an egg door at the end of the roost. It hinges at the bottom (with a 2x4 ripped into a 1x4 to cover the hardware cloth and provide a mounting spot for hinges) and latches at the top. I plan to use cotter pins or something to secure the latch. There is also a piece of untreated 1x4 held in place with tabs at the egg door to prevent bedding from falling out once it's converted to the nesting box (I'm planning to get pullets, not ready to lay yet, so they won't even have a tempting nest box)

5. There was no bottom door in the plans (to allow free-ranging), so I cut a piece of 2x4 to make a triangle against the bottom (same size as the egg door). It folds out (just like the egg door) and will allow the chickens easy access to the yard. We do have hawks in our neighborhood so free time will always be supervised. We also have a dog (who I coaxed into the coop for the main picture, haha!) who will need supervising. She's been around chickens before but you never know what will make her turn on them!

6. There was also no roost in the plans (although if you look at Ana's coop, there is a 2x4 across the middle of the side walls). I had a leftover closet rod, so I mounted that in the covered section parallel to the ladder. The ladder was shifted to the side. For the ladder, I just used a piece of cedar fencing and cut 2 48" dowels into 4 pieces each, and secured those with screws from the underside. I hope my chickens will be able to get up the ladder!

7. I also made a tube feeder from PVC and a dog bowl, and am working on a nipple waterer. Will update post when those are finished!

Now I just have to get some hens! I've been searching craigslist and can't wait!

Herringbone Table

Thanks for the wonderful plans! This is my 2nd Ana White build (traditional turned leg, pottery barn desk). I used the legs from this build and then leveraged some tips from another blog for the herringbone top using 2 sheets of MDF as a base (http://www.southernrevivals.com/2014/06/tile-top-herringbone-table-make…). My herringbone table took some planning, as it is over 13' long. Now all of my family can eat together when we get together!

First of all, thank you to the site for this plan. The headboard specs were spot on. I was interested in making a footboard as well, and you actually will end up with a few scrap pieces that will help you build the footboard (the 1x3's and 1x2's). My footboard ended up being about 23 1/4" high. For reference, the mattress in the photo is 10". I included a picture of the total boards you will need to buy to do the headboard, footboard, and side rails (I used 8 inch boards for the side rails, not 10 inch, but those could be interchanged). One thing to note is the plan calls for pocket hole screws but these are not necessary. I used 2" brad nails, 1 1/4" brad nails, and 2" screws (for the slats and the support rails on the slats. You could use 2 1/2 inch for the slats but the support rails need 2".). Not included in the picture I included is another 2x4x8 that I bought that I placed three scrap 4x4 posts that I had under the middle of the slats for extra support. I also bought steel bed rail fasteners ($11.30 from Amazon) to attach the side rails to the headboard and footboard. They worked great and the bed is extremely sturdy. Can't budge it at all. I used the common whitewood boards from Home Depot, which are all the correct width - the fur boards are cheaper but are not the correct width, you would need to adjust the plans if you were to use those. Overall I am very pleased with the bed. Please ignore the half dozen water bottles in the photo.

Made this coop in a weekend. $140 in material. Still a bit of work to do.

Tablesaw, router, fliptop mitersaw, and dust collection workbench. 

Base was made from recycled timber and the top was made with new pine.

The rails were made from curtain rails. 

One end has wheels for easy moving.