Community Brag Posts

DIY Porch Swing by corey_makes on Instagram

Essential bed frame with headboard customized from various Ana's bed plans. Side table nightstand from Ana's plans - easy and simple build. Great thanks to Ana and Jen for all they do.

This was one of my first bigger builds. I am so happy with the way it turned out!

"Cellar? What cellar? We don't have a cellar... Oh, you mean the new sand box! Here, let me get some shade too."

I'm not sure why, but I can never seem to follow plans exactly. I guess that's not entirely true. I CAN follow plans exactly, but I almost never do. Maybe it's some sort of passive rebellion or something, but I usually have to put my own spin on the things that I build. Sometimes it works out in my favor. Sometimes not. This build was a little of both.

I decided to only build one bench in our sand box. This cut down on a lot of supplies. By making it longer a single bench and making it longer, it covers about the same amount of square feet, just in a rectangle instead of a square. When pricing lumber, I noticed that 2x8's were cheaper than 1x8's. So I went with those instead. It can't hurt to beef up the sides a little, right? This required some easy calculations on the cut list. I also decided to use 1x6 fence planks instead of 1x4 whitewood or pine. The fence planks were cheap, and I figured they would look nice in the back yard. They are also naturally pest and rot resistant. They required extra sanding to take the rough off. However, this is one place that I'm thinking the modification didn't work in my favor. The fence planks are not as thick as the whitewood. This combined with the increased length makes the the top pieces feel pretty weak. I put a little support piece under the bench. I'm quite sure the bench would not have held up well without the support.

Because this is an outdoor piece, I dry fit everything, and then stained everything before assembling it, to make sure all of the edges were well protected.

Cost breakdown (not including canopy)
Fence planks $14
2x8x8 $11
hinges $9
handle $2
stain $10

Build Instructions:

http://www.instructables.com/id/Shed-Ramp/

Video:

https://youtu.be/WTqfV1HDstc

My garage was starting to get cramped so I decided I needed a shed for the lawn/garden equipment. I thought about building one but bailed and decided to purchase a 10’ x 14’ shed with 6’ wide doors from the nearby Amish community. To not be a total slacker, I decided I could at least build the foundation and ramp. I’ve never built a ramp so I did a little research online and found that there are an abundance of styles, both good and bad. Anyway, this is my attempt at ramp design. Hope someone finds it useful.

I am a beginner diy'er and this was one of my first projects.  Also it was my first time using the Kreg jig and I loved it!  My shelving system was around 8 feet tall, 12 feet wide and 30 inches deep.  I added some extra cleats to support my deeper shelves (30") and also used thicker (5/8") plywood.  This was a fun and easy project to do!  Thanks so much!

I built these as end tables in my living room. I made one narrower (only 14") by subtracting 3 1/2" from the end measurements and only using 4 2x4's on the top. Quick build, only about 2 hours to put together ( :) ), but the finishing took a while.

I’m an avid boxer and wanted to be able to work out in the convenience of my garage without making too much noise, and still make it easy to carry out normal garage functions (workshop and parking the car). I came up with an original design of a speed bag platform that locks away in a raised position, completely out of the way for normal garage usage. Then it unbolts and slides down when ready to engage. I also used rubber dampeners where I mounted it to the ceiling rafters to reduce vibrations and cut down on noise travelling through the house. 

I documented the whole project in my blog post at http://www.justmeasuringup.com/blog/diy-boxing-speed-bag-station-that-stows

I work on a lot of projects in the garage, and having a speed bag right in the middle is a great way to take a short break in the middle of it all - or when I bang my thumb with the hammer and want to release some anger :)

Recently identified this wonderful website. Thank you for the plan and really enjoying the process of building the furniture from scratch.

I am a computer programmer by trade, a husband/father/cook/baker by avocation. I can read and write music. I am new to woodworking, and look forward to building with Ana's excellent plans.

Bristol Outdoor Lounge Chair

Friends,

This is my first woodworking project in a long time. When I found the plans from OPD at Ana's site, I thought, I can do that! It turns out I was both right and wrong.

I bought the wood; I ordered a Kreg Jig from amazon; I searched for inexpensive pillows. My wife is a terrific seamstress, and we looked for fabric and foam. Yikes, is foam expensive!

Anyhow, I measured everything twice, made my cuts and figured out how to cut the 15º angled cuts. Then I drilled all of the pocket holes - what a chore.

My good friend has a complete wood shop. He has more power tools than Sears. Me, I've got a hollow-core door on two plastic sawhorses, a jig saw, chop saw, power drill and screw gun. I wanted to do this myself, so I did not use any specialty tools.

I built the chair without glue. Since this is a prototype, I wanted to be able to dismantle it. I built it to the specs provided, and discovered three things:

1. Attaching the back as a separate piece at a 15º angle is weak. "Weak as water," someone has said.
2. Butt joinery is an imprecise science when soft wodd is used.
3. The chair was too dang big!

So I took it apart. I changed the width of the front and back panels to 20 1/2", and re-used the arm supports.

I cut one end of each side panel to 75º.

The two back supports are a single piece of 1" x 4", 32" in length. This, coupled with the angled cut on the side panels, eliminates the weak joint at the back.

I shortened the depth (from front to back) by about 3", but the box for the bottom cushion is still too big. Next time the box will be 25" square.

In using butt joinery, I found that the back supports and side rails and the front apron all went together well. Perhaps I set the depth gauge incorrectly on the Kreg drill bit, because the 90º joints are not as clean as the flat joints. Then again, the more I do this, the better at it I will get.

I know that some of the joint holes are too deep, and this let the screw penetrate through the joint. Careful measurement before drilling all of the holes is crucial, and demands one's attention. I found myself checking the stop ring on the drill bit several times as I progressed, to make sure it was still set properly.

Using the Kreg Jig is not hard; it takes a bit more effort than they lead you to believe. I found myself wishing for three hands when joing 90º joints.

When the chair was assembled, I rounded the edges with a 3/8" router bit, followed by a thorough sanding. We found very inexpensive 4" foam pillows at Wal-Mart, and you can see the result.

I think the chair looks good, it is really comfy, and there will be more projects before the leaves fall this autumn.

Restoration hardware style coffee table.  We saw a coffee table we liked but didn't want to spend $2000 on.  Designed my own and managed to build for $200.  Main expense was the $130 for the legs from Osbornewood.com.