Community Brag Posts

Used MDF for the bases since we  painted them. I didn't do the interior trim on the bases as the plan says, because I felt they constricted the size of the shelves usability. Top was made with 3/4" Birch plywood. Simply routered the edge to have a curve then stained. 

My wife saw this project on your page. I had to shorten it to two feet, but, it pretty easy to do and turned out pretty well 👍🏼😁

Steve Phethean
 

I saw the plans for this and I had to have it. It was the first project that my husband and I completed together. I think we did a pretty good job. It just needs handles and it will be complete. If we can do this in the hot Texas heat then anyone can do it. I'm proud of us!

I modified the height to 36 to work with my workbench height. I also used 1x4 poplar in four pieces for the seat. I stained half golden oak and half cherry. I made the seat 14 inches around. I had trouble getting the pocket hole bit into the last leg of the stool once the full box shape was assembled. The top smallest pieces I had to tighten by hand. Also the seat even when larger than 12 inches shows some of the base 2by2. Otherwise it looks great. My height is what I needed and the stain and clear coat are perfect. I will be looking for more projects on this site.

Used Ana White's Husky Farmhouse Table plans/instructions and then made some of my own modifications to make the legs removable and expand the dimensions a bit. Turned out pretty good! This was my first project :)

Garden Bench Project. Christmas Gift for my daughter-in-law. Cost of materials $75 and invested about 5 hours into the project. I modified the length to fit their porch. I sanded all the material and slightly rounded over all of the material edges. Recommend installing the seat BEFORE you install the arms as it is much easier to fasten. I extended the arms by an inch because I thought it looked better than cutting it flush to the leg. We will paint it in the Spring after the material dries out and can accept paint. It was fun to build. I have seen similar benches on Etsy for over $500.

This one I can’t take complete credit for, the base shelving unit was left behind in our basement & was just beyond belief disgusting. I cleaned it up stripped it apart, stained it & put new hardware on it. The house is older & whoever “modernized” just didn’t do a spectacular job & place the cupboards in an odd way instead of utilizing the space properly. Anyway as I’ve mentioned in other projects, this is another odd corner, actually it’s not so odd because it’s supposed to be where the the fridge goes according to our landlord but it’s sized for a really small fridge & our big monster double door twice the size of this cubby, it is now in the mudroom which isn’t too inconvenient because it’s right off the kitchen & because we shut the vents in there to keep the heating cost lower in the winter the fridge doesn’t have to work too hard to keep cold. Anyway I wanted to utilize this space & found that the shelf fit perfect next to the garbage can that was there so I just made a top to fit the space & then we now have a microwave stand/coffee prep area.

My first DIY project. I went a little different and built the table top out of sassafras lumber that I bought from a local sawyer. The plans were foolproof. The only tricky part about this project is the finish. I stained the table with Minwax Dark walnut and 4 coats of polyurethane (2 parts poly to 1 part mineral spirits) to get the finish I wanted. Of course I spent the most time sanding this table. It turned out wonderfully and my wife is one happy camper!

My wife and I wanted a changing table that could also function as a bookshelf, so after a quick Google search, I found the Ana White Ultimate Changing Table plans. I modified the original design by making the legs 36" and by adding side and back panels so that the piece could convert to a bookshelf when the baby gets older and we no longer need it to be a changing table. This was easy to do by using my table saw to cut 3/16" stopped grooves in the legs before attaching to the table and slotting in 1/4" plywood cut to fit before attaching the tabletop. Opted not to cut rabbets for the back panel as it would have changed the measurements for the drawers by recessing the rear 1x6 apron by 1/4". 

My wife and I are very happy with the results and the amount of storage we now have. She's so happy in fact, that I will apparently be building one of these for each future child as well! Thanks Ana White for the straightforward and easy to follow plans.

This was my first time building something big :) and im sooo happy with the results. Had been looking for a sofa table/console for so long but couldn't decide on what I wanted , when I saw this on the first page I fell in love. It was fairly easy to build. Took me 2 days, one day sanding, cutting, staining it and the next putting it together. I love how it turned out.

I didnt make the side 'X' bc I want to do something different than the original plan, just trying to figure it out what exactly.

Oh! And I still need to add the decorative hardware, I have it, just need to remember to do it.

Thank you so much for the plans.

That was fun. Got a new dog, built her this for double duty. A crate and a table. The finishing was the lengthy part, by a LONG shot. Can't wait to start a new plan.

I wanted a place for a flag pole, but I didn't want to put one in the ground or screw into my siding, so I modified the cedar planter to hold a flag pole. It was a fun project!  Check out more here!

We turned a formal living into a bedroom so we needed a door to close off the kitchen/nook beyond. Since we were on a tight budget, we knew we could not afford the barn door hardware, so we found the next best thing:

Stanley Trolley Box Track (from Lowe's). http://tinyurl.com/2z6wpn Yes, it's ugly looking, but we painted it black and modified how it was used. We got the 6' track with the box track hangers without apron. We bought the mount bracket, but that was a mistake. The door could not pass the mount on the right side and we ended up just attaching the track to the wall without the mount on that side (pic of door open shows both mounts before we were able to close the door and before we removed the mount on the right side). Had we known, both sides would have been attached to the wall without the mount. But, we went ahead and left the mount on the left side as we didn't think it hurt the look too much.

The door: We made another mistake. We meant to buy 1x tongue and groove wood (3/4" thick) to make our door and we somehow got 8' lengths of tongue and groove paneling 1/4" thick (OOPS): http://tinyurl.com/7ea6b3r It looks good, but it's ultra light weight (stain first, then put it together). We used a flat piece of aluminum to hold it together (also painted black - along with painted screws). Due to our mistake in depth, our screws were too long so we located a 2x4 directly behind the aluminum strip on the top and the bottom of the door for stability. It helped a lot. The location of the aluminum strip at the top is strategic because the 2x4 behind it is also what holds the box track hangers that roll on the track above. We put them a few inches in on each side from the edge of the door, drilled a hole vertical through the 2x4 (a little off center so the door wouldn't rub the track) where longer bolts were used to go all the way through the 2x4 and hold the door onto the track while being hidden behind the door. I also had to get smaller screws for my door handle to go on since the door was only 1/4" thick. But, it all worked out.

The backside: Due to the fact the door is so light, we added felt to the 2x4 at the bottom so it wouldn't damage the trim.

This was my second wood project and I am really happy with how it turned out. I basically followed the plans but made mine alot bigger. It measures roughly 6' long, 33" tall, and 20" wide. I wanted to let people know how I made the center door because the video used alot of tools and skills that I do not have.
I made the doors out of 4" and 2" select pine with PH's on the back. I then cut a 5/16" groove in the center on the outside of the stiles. About 7/8-15/16 of the way up the door I installed a 1/4" wooden dowel. On the cabinet frame I installed another wooden dowel that the door dowel rests on when closed, this is also the dowel that rides in the groove that was cut on the door.
The other difficult part (for Me) was the cut out design on the bottom of the frame. I did this by using a big bowl for the center and a really thin strip of wood. Once I cut out one side I just flipped the cut piece over and traced it to the other side.
I finished the top off with 3 coats Minwax Dark Mahoganey and 3 coats of Minwax Polycrylic.

TV console table made of poplar wood. Shaker style inset doors. Solid wood construction. Painted with General Finishes Milk Paint and High Performance Top Coat.