Community Brag Posts

I built these for my son for Christmas. They were very easy to build (the 2nd chair turned out much better than the first, however!) and I am very pleased to have discovered this site. Thanks!

I made the countertop with 2 plywood boards screwed together and topped the stainless steel with heavy duty adhesive.  I adjusted the plans a little to accommodate my space.  Thanks for the plans!  It was a fun build!

This is my more traditional take on the modern craft table (I guess that means it isn't technically "modern"!).  We call it the "Lego Table" at our house.  I doubled up the ends like others have so that my two daughters can have their own sides.  My wife asked that the there be backs on the side shelves so that items aren't pushed off.   I also added trim around the tabletop and molding to give it a bit more traditional appearance.  Finally, I made the shelves adjustable.  

If you'd like to build a very inexpensive chair and bench for your boat dock out of just 2 x 4s and 1 x 2's that is extremely sturdy, then this project is for you. As you can see by the picture, I used the Kreg jig, 2 cordless drills. Also a chop saw to cut the materials.

I found your plans last summer and loved the design so I decided to build one for my wife for her birthday last August. I didn't get started until the weekend of her birthday in late August so there was little expectation to have it finished before winter. It is now 14 months later and I only have a few trim pieces left to install. We live in a harsh climate and I wanted to be able to use it through the winter so I made a few changes. I built a 2 x 12 base and insulated it with R40 and the bottom walls are 2 x 6 instead of 2 x 4 and are insulated with R20. I used twin wall polycarbonate instead of the corrugated lexan because of the superior R factor. The insulated walls are of course vapor barriered and I covered them with tongue & grove cedar. I also made raised benches out of cedar for growing potted plants on. The floor has ceramic tile on it and the exterior is colored metal. I also ran underground power to the building and installed a fluorescent grow light. Surprisingly a small 110 volt heater keeps the temperature above freezing even during our awesome -40 winter temperatures. If the daytime temperature is anywhere near or above freezing we have to keep the screen open in the door or it overheats inside. I have attached links to a few pictures of the almost finished product, ready for another winter full of flowers and veggies. I initially used clear vapor barrier until the twin wall polycarbonate showed up. This worked rather well. 

I have posted this in the comments section as well, but I think it belongs here.

This is a shorter and wider (and simplified) version of the Flat Wall Book Shelf.  (Approx 48" wide and 40" tall). Trying to maximize wasted space under sloped ceilings.  I did jig-saw out a notch for the baseboard so it would be secured flat to the wall.  My only regret is that I didn't put this baby up sooner.  I've been kicking books around this room for years!

The decorative 4-Foot Mantel Wall Shelf Plans resembles a fire place mantel and makes a beautiful place to display photos and other decorations. The project can be built with a miter saw and table saw in 2-3 hours. A keyhole router bit can be used in lieu of mounting hardware. I also suggest a pneumatic air compressor and 18 and 16 gauge nail guns. The overall project dimensions are 48 inches long by 8 inches tall. It looks beautiful with a glaze or distressed finish. The detailed plans can be found on my woodworking blog at: http://www.jrlwoodworking.com/

Pottery Barn inspired toddler bed, made with reclaimed lumber from our home reno. The wainscoting is real (not mdf), $2 from the HD cull lumber rack. It had a damaged piece, but the remaining part of the board sufficed for this small project. Screws are countersunk. 

The curve is elliptical (drawn with loop of string and two nails for foci, transferred to board and cut with jigsaw)

The construction is lighter than the original plan, using what was at hand and for a young toddler. 

Ever since we've moved into our new home, My Husband Matt has put his room (Or "Man Cave" as we know it) on the back burner so that other things could be done first. He has been so sweet about letting me use it for home decor, event decor, clothes, and misc. storage. 

Well, since the hectic first couple of months as new homeowners is starting to die down, I had made my mind up that I would help him get started on his Man Cave as an early Birthday present! He deserves it!!

In passing, he made a comment to me the other day that he would love to have some kind of rustic window treatments in his room. I pulled up Pinterest and nonchalantly pointed out a couple of ideas to see which one he liked the most. We went in the room together and he started to describe what he wanted them to look like. (Again, he was saying this in general. I doubt he thought I was crazy enough to attempt it. Welllll…)

The next day I worked on my usual “project prep” routine:

• Find the best design that will fit the space.
• Take measurements
• Draw up a plan of what it should look like and include measurement points
• Take measurements, AGAIN, just to be safe
• Look for Lowes or Home depot coupons
• Head to the store and get this bad boy rolling!

I first measured the window casing. (My window casing doesn’t have crown molding around it on the sides or at the top, which was a plus! This will make them easier to attach!)

My window measures 35″ wide and 58″ tall. So, here’s how I figured the math:

• If the window is 35″ wide, and we need two shutters, we will need to divide 35″ by 2, giving us 17.5.
• I would like to get a little room for clearance, so lets round both sides to 17 even, giving us a 1 inch clearance. (Room for the doors to open and close properly without worrying about rubbing.)
• You will want the shutters the same height as the window of course, so each of my shutters will need to measure 17″ wide and 58″ tall.  There are tons of different styles for these shutters so all you need to know is that each shutter needs to be half of the window width (minus 1/2 inch from each shutter for clearance.)And then you can just decide what design and boards you want to use.
• I used (4) 1×10’s for my shutters. (And if you are familiar with wood, you know that the real measurement for a 1×10 = 9.25, so I had 37 inches of wood to work with.) I trimmed 1 1/2 inches from each of the inner 1×10’s to get them where I wanted them to be. Leaving them as 7.75″.
• You will need 1×4’s for both sides on the window to attach your shutters to. They will need to measure the length of your window as well. (1×4’s are really 1×3.5)
• For the boards that lay across the shutters, I purchased (4)  3×24 thin boards.
• Cut these boards to the same length as each shutter. Which in my case, would be 17″. DON’T FORGET you will need to also cut (4) pieces to go on each of your 1×4’s that are on the sides. The latches will sit on these pieces and make them even with the pieces that are on the shutters.

So, after my cutting was all said and done, I had:

(2) 9.25×58 

(2) 7.75×58

(2) 3.5×58

(4)3×17

(4)3×3.5

I built the flat wall bookholders to go with our new bunk beds! We love them! I built the small, 24" shelves.

I have built this table following the plan from the woodwhisperer website under the name "Not So Rustic Outdoor Table", Used white pine

Farmhouse bed and night stands. Second bed I've made with Ana's plans, absolutely love it and easy for all........Deb M.

This was my first build EVER. I had never even used a saw before, so if I can do this, so can YOU!

The original plans call for this desk to be 72" in length, but my space only allowed for a 60" desk, so I cut the 3 braces that go along the back down by 12", as well as the 2x6s that make the desktop. The cross-braces in the back were also cut down, but I did that by measuring for fit (as demonstrated by Ana in one of her videos where she made the x-bench).

I described this as a weekend project ONLY because of the time I had to allow between coats of paint, etc. I built it easily in one day (with kids at home!).

This was a GREAT experience and I am HOOKED! Thanks to Ana and Shanty-2-Chic for designing this!

Inspired by Ballard  Designs Turin Bookcase http://www.ballarddesigns.com/turin-bookcase/237257

and the Marche writing desk http://www.ballarddesigns.com/marche-writing-desk/278164

with some tweaks to my liking :0)

First of all, thank you to the site for this plan. The headboard specs were spot on. I was interested in making a footboard as well, and you actually will end up with a few scrap pieces that will help you build the footboard (the 1x3's and 1x2's). My footboard ended up being about 23 1/4" high. For reference, the mattress in the photo is 10". I included a picture of the total boards you will need to buy to do the headboard, footboard, and side rails (I used 8 inch boards for the side rails, not 10 inch, but those could be interchanged). One thing to note is the plan calls for pocket hole screws but these are not necessary. I used 2" brad nails, 1 1/4" brad nails, and 2" screws (for the slats and the support rails on the slats. You could use 2 1/2 inch for the slats but the support rails need 2".). Not included in the picture I included is another 2x4x8 that I bought that I placed three scrap 4x4 posts that I had under the middle of the slats for extra support. I also bought steel bed rail fasteners ($11.30 from Amazon) to attach the side rails to the headboard and footboard. They worked great and the bed is extremely sturdy. Can't budge it at all. I used the common whitewood boards from Home Depot, which are all the correct width - the fur boards are cheaper but are not the correct width, you would need to adjust the plans if you were to use those. Overall I am very pleased with the bed. Please ignore the half dozen water bottles in the photo.

This is a pretty basic console table I built for a craft show last month (that's why I don't have better photos). I started with the top. Using my Kreg Jig, I pocket holed 3, 1x6's together and added some 1x4's to make breadboard ends. For the base I used reclaimed table legs from a table I bought at a garage sale for $5! The aprons are 1x4's, pocket-holed to the legs. I did add some diagonal support blocks in each corner to keep the whole thing square. Using pocket-holes once again, I attached the top. I then simply measured the aprons, cut the rope trim and attached with glue and 3/4in finish nails. I have a few more projects like this featured on my blog http://pneumaticaddict.blogspot.com .