Community Brag Posts

Workbench

Submitted by Malka on Thu, 04/14/2016 - 04:19

Great workbench. Made slight modification, in extending the top 2x4s past the counter edge, and then connecting them with another 2x4 so I'd have a place to put clamps/tools. Also used 3/4 particle board, as it was significantly cheaper than the plywood my local hardware store had on hand.

Estimated Cost
$50
Estimated Time Investment
Afternoon Project (3-6 Hours)
Finish Used
None
Recommended Skill Level
Starter Project

Lego and Art Table

Submitted by ahicks6 on Fri, 12/27/2019 - 08:57

I looked everywhere for a Lego table that would fit my needs and not be super expensive, but I kept coming up with nothing. So I decided to make my own and to make it a place for my kids to do their art as well.

This was my first time using a Kreg Jig as I wanted it to be really stable. I found the drawers at The Container Store. They house all of the color coordinated Legos together.

It has been amazing so far and I'm so glad I didn't settle for any old Lego table on the market that didn't suit our needs. 

If you want more info regarding sizes, cut list, etc, let me know and I'll try to post them. 

Estimated Time Investment
Weekend Project (10-20 Hours)
Finish Used
Homemade chalk paint, Minwax Red Chestnut stain, Rustoleum Clear Enamel Spray
Recommended Skill Level
Intermediate

Bar Stools

Submitted by old_man on Sun, 04/08/2012 - 11:01

These are simple, cheap, easy, and effective.

I modified the top so that I could just use the left over 2X6s I had and it would somewhat match my table. I felt it worked. There is probably something like $5 in wood in each chair about about 20 screws...that's it.

Word of warning, because you are using 2X2s these chairs will twist a little. Can't change physics but for $5 what do you want...

This is a fun little project that is quite easy but will make you think about how you can modify it and how/where you should use all your screws both to make it strong as well as to hide them.

Built from Plan(s)
Estimated Cost
$5
Estimated Time Investment
An Hour or Two (0-2 Hours)
Finish Used
Minwax Dark Walnut. Satin Poly.
Recommended Skill Level
Starter Project

Comments

Outdoor Sofa

Submitted by stell on Wed, 01/22/2014 - 19:23

Was my first project from Ana White's designs. I enjoyed making it, and plan on following up with the outdoor loveseat this spring.

Estimated Cost
Wood & hardware $80, the finish $16. The cushions were $126
Estimated Time Investment
Weekend Project (10-20 Hours)
Finish Used
Olympic Solid Exterior Stain in Antique Silver.
Recommended Skill Level
Beginner

Greenhouse Build

Submitted by Chris Rose on Tue, 12/31/2019 - 18:43

A microburst storm destroyed my first green house (last pic). I wanted something that would be stronger, I found Ana's plan and built a replacement. Was able to recycle some of the metal channels and panels from the destroyed one to cover the end sections and the door.

Outdoor Grill Station

Submitted by Anonymous (not verified) on Tue, 09/05/2023 - 09:21

 

This rolling bar was inspired by Ana White's plan.  It is used as a bar and conceals an electric smoker and a grill.  I added handles for moving and some hooks on the sides.  I stained the salvaged 2 X 6 's and brushed on clear oil based poly on the new Cedar fence boards.

Billie

Rolling Shelf

Submitted by imsomark on Tue, 04/19/2016 - 06:31

Thank for this plan, I needed something in the corner of my living room and this ended up being perfect. I followed the steps for the frame of the bookshelf as the plan outlined but made a few other changes:

1. I put the EMT pipe a bit lower than Ana's plan, more like how the RH shelf looked. I drilled a hole 5 inches from the top of each shelf, and about 3/4 of an inch from the back (5 inches up, 3/4 over)
2. I used flat iron spray paint for the EMT pipe and caps
3. I used caps instead of having the pipe ends sticking out
4. I used 4'' rigid caster wheels, found on etsy for $15 each
5. I used weathered oak stain
6. I couldn't find the right size corner brackets so I bought a 1.5'' wide steel flat bar from Lowes and made them myself. I cut the bar at 6'', put it in a vise and hammered it in the middle to be at 45 degrees, and drilled holes for the screws.

Built from Plan(s)
Estimated Cost
Wood - $50
EMT Pipe - $4
Pipe caps - $10
Casters - $80 (including $20 shipping)
Stain - $7
Spray paint - $7
Steel flat bar - $5
Screws - $5

Total - $168
Estimated Time Investment
Weekend Project (10-20 Hours)
Finish Used
Weathered Oak
Recommended Skill Level
Intermediate

Loft Cabin Bunk Bed

Best Christmas present according to my 4-year-old twins :)  I combined ideas from Jen Woodhouse's "cabin bed" and "loft cabin bed" after seeing another brag post from someone who had turned it into a bunk bed.  I added a separate platform for the lower mattress for uniformity and to provide some air circulation for the mattress.  I also opted for a 2x6 as the bottom weight-bearing beam because I wanted to be able to add an extra couple pocket screws since this mama likes to play in the top bunk too!  My girls took turns sleeping in the top/bottom for the first 2 nights, and have been camping out together in the top bunk ever since... and my husband and I are finally getting to sleep in on the weekends because they never want to come out of their room!  

 

**Side note -- I'm not sure how my pictures got flipped but I have no idea how to fix it!

Built from Plan(s)
Finish Used
3 coats of white primer + paint in satin finish for the main house
Varathane weathered grey for roof & stairs
Rustoleum "Chalked" in charcoal for window trim

Comments

Twinkies' mom

Fri, 10/02/2020 - 09:33

I am SO sorry but I haven't been on here since I posted the bunkbeds (almost 9 months ago!) I had written out all of my modified measurements on the Jen Woodhouse plans but have since lost it somewhere in my garage :( Here is what I can tell you at the moment: short side of "front" & "back" panels = 77.25" ; I kept the angles on the sides/roof the same, so the highest point of roof = 89" (I have short 8' ceilings so this leaves ~7" space up top). I used what I believe were 5" tongue & groove flooring panels instead of plywood for all sides, framed by 2x4s and 2x6 underneath for a little extra support. The height from the bottom of the top bunk to the floor is 38", and I added a 2x6 piece between the bottom legs of the 2 side pieces, flush with the outside edge. I built a rectangular frame for the bottom mattress using 2x6" on the long sides and 2x4 on the short sides -- the 2x4s are raised off the floor in order to allow for air circulation under the mattress and act as the end slats (they're flush on top with the rest of the slats, which I used 2x4s instead of the 1x in the plans)... instead of the 2x2 supports for the mattresses I used some scrap 2x3s from my kids old toddler beds which I had also built but tried to recycle as much of the wood as I could for this project, plus the 2x6 gave me a little more wiggle room -- if you use 2x4 you won't have space for 2x3 supports. The front "door" opening is 22.75", which I based on my size and me being able to get in and out easily (as mentioned above, I like to camp out with my kids sometimes!). The window openings are 12" w x 13.5" h, but the height is measured after I made a 1x3" window ledge which is flush with the inside of the wall; the rest of the windows are framed with 1x2s and 1x3s.
The full width of the side panels is 38" and the front/back are 78.5" -- I based these on the mattresses which I had already bought (Novaform twin from Costco -- since they're memory foam they're a little easier to "squeeze" in the top bunk than I would imagine a regular mattress would be).

I think that covers everything, sorry again about replying so late!

Twinkies' mom

Fri, 10/02/2020 - 09:42

2 more things:
The bottom "frame" was meant to be removable for easy assembly/disassembly as my family moves a lot! That is why I used the inner 2x4s to hold the long side rails together, and the short-side 2x6s which are attached to the side frames are merely fore the illusion that it's all one piece. I did place a couple 2.5" screws through the inside of the 2x4s right into the legs of the upper bunk to make sure it stays in place.
When building the front panels with the windows, I decided on door opening first, then window opening (based on the size of the tongue & groove flooring), then calculated the width of all the pieces to create the window opening. I used pocked holes to connect the tongue & groove flooring to the "frame" created by the 2x4 pieces, and TONS of wood glue in between the boards. Adding the window frames with glue & nails helped provide a little more stability to the windows, although once the glue was dry there was zero movement around the window but I never know with my extremely-destructive twins! Now they're able to climb all over the bunk using the window ledge for support and it's no problem.

beach chairs for the 3 neices

Submitted by jaime6891 on Sat, 04/14/2012 - 09:24

This is my first project. I wanted to make something for my three neices for Easter. I thought this looked like a good starter project. I used spray paint, but I wish I would've used regular paint, as they got kind of drippy and I had to sand the drips off. I think they would've also been cheaper if I would've used regular paint instead of the spray paint. We also do not have a fabric store in the area, so I had to order it on-line and paid shipping. But I did love the fabric that I found.

I'm pretty happy how they turned out. Now I want to try something else!

Estimated Cost
$10 - $15 a chair
Estimated Time Investment
Afternoon Project (3-6 Hours)
Finish Used
rustoleum spray paint
Recommended Skill Level
Starter Project

Red Hen Home's Triple Printers Console

This Printers Console functions as our entertainment center! I omitted the center drawer in favor of a shelf to hold the Wii console and DVD player. I added three DVD storage racks behind the cupboard doors. More details available here: http://redhenhome.blogspot.com/2014/01/triple-printers-console-cabinet…

Built from Plan(s)
Estimated Cost
$400
Estimated Time Investment
Week Long Project (20 Hours or More)
Finish Used
Rustoleum American Walnut Stain, DIY chalk paint with Valspar Perfect Storm paint. MMS waxes.
Recommended Skill Level
Intermediate

Comments

bullitt453

Tue, 01/28/2014 - 05:56

Love the finish that you used on this. I've been wanting to give chalk paint a try. May have to do that on my next project.

Pam the Goatherd

Tue, 01/28/2014 - 08:03

Gorgeous! This project is on my to-do list but I've got a couple other things that must be done first. And I can't do anything until our weather warms up into positive numbers since my workshop isn't heated or insulated. I hope mine turns out looking as good as yours does.

Fancy Jewelry Box

Easy to make and made an amazing Christmas Gift. 

Estimated Cost
$100
Estimated Time Investment
Weekend Project (10-20 Hours)
Finish Used
Minwax Dark Walnut Stain
Recommended Skill Level
Beginner

Queen Farmhouse bed

Submitted by mediccac on Mon, 04/16/2012 - 21:19

This is a modified Farmhouse queen bed. This was the first thing I have ever made from wood by myself for my wife and I.

Built from Plan(s)
Finish Used
Milk white paint sanded to distress.
Recommended Skill Level
Beginner

Black Channing Desk w/ Stained Top

Submitted by brewatts on Wed, 01/29/2014 - 18:26

Channing Desk built with select pine boards and maple plywood top/sides. Fairly easy project. The sanding/painting/staining took much longer than the actual building. We used 2 coats of Special Walnut followed by 2 coats of Weathered Oak. Then to finish, 3 layers of polyurethane. Very pleased with the plan and finished desk. Thanks Ana!

Built from Plan(s)
Estimated Cost
$150
Estimated Time Investment
Weekend Project (10-20 Hours)
Finish Used
Minwax Special Walnut
Minwax Weathered Oak
Rustoleum Semi-gloss Polyurethane
Recommended Skill Level
Intermediate

Comments

Toddler bed

Submitted by Anonymous (not verified) on Wed, 04/27/2016 - 09:47

this is my favourite piece of furniture that I have built so far and my daughter loves it! Turned out great and the plan was so easy to follow. I wouldn't suggest glueing and kreg jigging. We did that on our coffee table and when the wood shrunk it tore in between the boards and looked terrible. I used flanged plugs at the ends so that I can pop them out and take the bed apart easily but have no exposed screw holes and then filled the kreg holes with the kreg plugs and they stained up great!

Built from Plan(s)
Estimated Cost
$50
Estimated Time Investment
Day Project (6-9 Hours)
Finish Used
wagon wheel deck stain and 1 coat of indoor varnish
Recommended Skill Level
Intermediate

Comments

Kennedy's Christmas Surprise

Submitted by Anonymous (not verified) on Mon, 01/20/2020 - 07:37

My granddaughter had been wanting a loft bed for well over a year. We decided after a year it wasn't just a phase so I went to Ana's website and got the plans. Can't thank you enough Ana! Easy to follow instructions, sturdy finished product and most of all a VERY HAPPY granddaughter! We call that a Win/Win.

Built from Plan(s)
Estimated Cost
$170
Estimated Time Investment
Day Project (6-9 Hours)
Finish Used
Valspar White
Recommended Skill Level
Beginner

Rough Sawn Spruce Dining Table!

Submitted by Anonymous (not verified) on Mon, 09/18/2023 - 09:01

This was really fun! Actually used Spruce from a tree on my property that I had cut down and taken to a Saw Mill 6 Years ago. Been in the barn drying. The rough sawn boards were only 1.25 thick after the planer I could only maintain 1.00”. Extended the length of the table to 10’. Decided to reverse the underneath support angled boards to add support to the center of the table due to the added length and only 1” thick boards. Used biscuit joints to add strength and alignment. We love it at the lake home!

 

Matt Menges

Built from Plan(s)

Scaled down Planked Wood Sideboard

Submitted by hcharnock on Thu, 04/19/2012 - 06:02

I wanted two sideboards flanking the doorway in my dining room. I took these awesome plans and just scaled them down, building the middle portion of the sideboard only and ignoring the two sides. I used the exact measurements of the middle portion of the plan. Other changes were that I used 1x12's on the ends of the sideboard, instead of planks, and luan in the doors, instead of beadboard. My biggest advice to someone else building this would be to make sure that the unit is square as you build, if it is not, you will have some serious shim work to do with the drawer slides! (of course, I know nothing about this, haha!) It was a great plan and a lot of fun to build. Oh, and I also used my router to rout out a 1/2 inch deep groove all the way around the back side of the unit, that way I could inset my back into the piece and it would not be visible from the side.

Estimated Cost
$85 for both of the sideboards, but I already had the paint and some of the wood
Estimated Time Investment
Weekend Project (10-20 Hours)
Finish Used
I caulked seams, woodfilled holes, sanded with 120 grit, primed with Cover Stain, sanded with 220 grit, painted with Olympic Low-VOC white semi-gloss paint, sanded with 220 and painted again!
Recommended Skill Level
Intermediate

Comments

spiceylg

Thu, 04/19/2012 - 08:04

You did an amazing job! Great idea and looks fab! I'm trying to get up the nerve to build it full size. I've just done simple projects so the thought of doing doors and especially drawers makes me nervous as I'm real particular and get frustrated when things don't go as planned!

hcharnock

Thu, 04/19/2012 - 17:04

Hi! Thanks for the compliment. I have a Bosch Colt, handheld router that I used for all of the routing, on the back of the unit and also on the doors to inset the panels. Hope that helps!

Hillary (not verified)

Mon, 05/14/2012 - 23:02

Great work! I love that you routed the back. It's so nice not to see the back tacked on. In some applications it is no big deal, but for a piece like this, when you're walking by the side of it every day, I think it is much more polished not to see the back. And...I totally know what you mean about building square for that drawer!!

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