DIY Mini Fridge Cabinet

Hubby used the Barn Door Cabinet plans from Ana White. Built to specifications for a mini-refrigerator.
Back Woods Designs on Facebook


Hubby used the Barn Door Cabinet plans from Ana White. Built to specifications for a mini-refrigerator.
Back Woods Designs on Facebook
I really liked the PB mega desk, but I didn't want to spend $1600 on it. After seeing someone's post here (a couple years ago...) asking for plans on that desk, I decided to do it myself. I took these two plans and made 4 base units. They are 18" square at the top and 34" tall. I used 2 IKEA table tops connected underneath for the top, to make a total height of 36" - counter stool height. I constructed them a little differently than the plans, but no matter how you make them, the idea is the same. The plan is to take them apart and make 2 desks once everyone is too old and cool to do homework/artwork together.
Mon, 03/16/2015 - 20:39
this is really awesome! What a cool work area :)
Sun, 08/02/2015 - 11:39
Where did you get the chairs to complete your project? And how much were they?
Sat, 08/15/2015 - 04:33
Just seeing your comment...sorry for the delay! I got the stools and the light fixture at a Ballard Backroom (outlet) store near me. 3 of the stools ended up being about $40 each with the sale they had at the time, and the 4th was $60? - bought at a later time than the first 3.
Sun, 08/30/2015 - 13:54
Could we get more detail on how this was built? The base units, for instance.
Thanks!
Wed, 11/04/2015 - 07:40
How did you connect the table tops from the bottom so that the tables were secure together? I'm curious what's the best way to do this. Since two of the four seats will be where the seam is, I want to make sure I secure it properly so it's not wobbly. Thanks so much.
Sat, 01/09/2016 - 05:06
I'm just seeing these latest comments for the first time, so you may have long finished this project already! The tops were surprisingly sturdy but I did reinforce them. I placed the tops on the floor upside down and screwed some metal brackets (about 12" long each) across the joint in four places. I just screwed them in through holes already in the brackets. This wasn't the most stable because those tops are particle board and don't hold screws very well... But since it was already pretty sturdy, I figured it would do. It has been fine, even with standing on the top (kids who get up there and me hanging the light fixture above).
Once the tops were joined, I placed the bases so there was about a 1" overhang on the top. To hold the top in place, I used small pieces of wood screwed to the underside of the top at the inside corner to act as a placement stop. The top is pretty big and heavy even though they are IKEA tops, so they don't have a tendency to move or slide at all anyway. I'm going to try to figure out how to post another picture of the braces and corner stops...we'll see if I can do it! Let me know if you have any more questions...again, sorry I didn't see this in a more timely manner!
Sat, 01/02/2016 - 05:55
Is the photo above the Pottery Barn version or your product result? I'm trying to figure out the dimensions for the drawer and shelf configurations. Thanks! BTW, I'm totally addicted to your style and personality...my husband loves the productivity inspiration I've received. :-)
Sat, 01/09/2016 - 10:17
Hi!
I'm glad you like the desk! The one in the picture is the one I built, not the pottery barn one! My dimensions were a good bit different than the PB desk - square bases instead of rectangular and counter stool height instead of desk/table height. So, I have no idea if I have my plans for this anymore, so I went and measured it again for you!
So each base is 18" x 18" square and 34" high so that with the 2" top the total height is 36".
Each base was made of oak plywood that made with 3 sides, a top and a bottom. All edges were rabbit joints (3/8" deep in thickness of boards and probably 3/8" wide - not 100% on width of rabbits). It's kind of a pain to do rabbit joints if you don't have a dado blade for your table saw, so you could use pocket hole screws instead. I glued and nailed these joints with a finish nailer, I believe.
I figured a diagram with measurements would be easier than trying to write descriptions...so I'm adding another pic with the dimensions outlined. Drawing is NOT to scale, so sorry about that! I really need to learn to use SketchUp. Let me know if you have any questions!
Sat, 01/09/2016 - 07:57
Hi!
I'm glad you like the desk! The one in the picture is the one I built, not the pottery barn one! My dimensions were a good bit different than the PB desk - square bases instead of rectangular and counter stool height instead of desk/table height. So, I have no idea if I have my plans for this anymore, so I went and measured it again for you!
So each base is 18" x 18" square and 34" high so that with the 2" top the total height is 36".
Each base was made of oak plywood that made with 3 sides, a top and a bottom. All edges were rabbit joints (3/8" deep in thickness of boards and probably 3/8" wide - not 100% on width of rabbits). It's kind of a pain to do rabbit joints if you don't have a dado blade for your table saw, so you could use pocket hole screws instead. I glued and nailed these joints with a finish nailer, I believe.
I figured a diagram with measurements would be easier than trying to write descriptions...so I'm adding another pic with the dimensions outlined. Drawing is NOT to scale, so sorry about that! I really need to learn to use SketchUp. Let me know if you have any questions!
Wed, 06/22/2016 - 15:26
Can you buy the bases from ikea? or did you build them from scratch?
Thu, 07/28/2016 - 14:13
No you can't buy them from Ikea. I bought the table tops from Ikea, but I built the bases. The dimensions for the bases are in one of the additional pictures with the post if you want to see them!
Mon, 10/10/2016 - 07:41
What are the total dimensions of the table top? Thinking of building something like this, but want to make sure it will fit in my space.
I always wanted a cabin-type cat tree where my cats could crawl in and feel safe, but still have a great view of the birds out of a window. I tried to draw my vision on paper, but that had a hideous result. Learning Google SketchUp (at least the basics) was an absolute necessity. I could never have built this without drawing it in 3D first, and seeing how the boards would connect, etc.
For the scratch pad, I built a frame out of 2x4s on top of plywood, covered it with carpet, and dropped the standard size scratch pad in place. This is the cat's favorite feature. I put barn doors on the window with tiny hinges so that I can close for added privacy. The tree sits against a window so that the back side is totally open. I made cozy zippered cushions for the platforms (that can be taken off and washed). I covered the carpeted areas with spare carpeting.
Fri, 07/12/2013 - 09:36
Would you mind sharing your dimensions for this? It is absolutely beautiful!
Sun, 08/25/2013 - 08:10
Do you have the plans somewhere? I really want to build this (even got the okay from the hubby!) but I don't think I could do it without some serious guidelines...
Fri, 08/30/2013 - 15:55
First, sorry for the late notice; I just happened to look and saw the comments/questions.
I don't have plans...all I have is a google sketchup diagram that I created as a guideline for my construction (which is included in the photos), which is not to scale. Actual measurements are:
* Base (green carpeted base): 33.5" x 19"
* 4x4 legs: 35" tall
* 'Mezzanine' scratch pad level: 22" x 17.5"
* Mid-level base: 18" x 32"
* Enclosed cabin: 18.25" x 22.5" x 17" high
* Highest point: 56"
This has turned out to be a fantastic hit with the cats. They use all 5 levels, but the scratch pad and cabin are their favorite spots. If you need anything else or additional pics, please contact me.
Fri, 08/30/2013 - 18:15
Thanks for the dimensions, Joni! I'm trying to learn SketchUp so I can draw up my own plans, also. If I can't figure it out, I'll hand it off to my 12 year old, who is a pro at it (go figure). I know my cats will love it if I can manage to get it built!
Fri, 09/27/2013 - 10:15
I used your pictures and diagram Joni and made one for my friend for her cats! I used 2x4's for the cabin which makes this thing so heavy but so sturdy! It holds my 60 lb child without budging... here's a pic of it almost done. My friend was not finished wrapping the posts with sisel rope though.
https://www.facebook.com/stephanie.brooks1975#!/photo.php?fbid=10151788…
Thu, 10/31/2013 - 14:30
Bhoppy -- I looked at your cat tree on facebook. It's awesome! The sturdiness of it shocked me too. And I was initially worried that my cats might knock it down!!
The worst part of building it was getting that lower scratch pad level on straight with the 3 posts. I'd never want to do that again!
Thanks for sharing, Joni
Fri, 01/02/2015 - 01:18
Funny, almost every time I'm looking for ideas or inspiration when I want to build something, I end up back on this site. I was searching for pictures of cat trees and this was the only one that made me say "Holy crap, that's EXACTLY what I want!" My cat will love it!
Mon, 04/27/2020 - 20:41
Not sure if anyone is still around to see this, but I fell in love with this tree the second I saw it. Wondering if anyone created a detailed plan and might have it handy or possibly a detailed sketchup and wouldn't mind sharing the save file?
In the event nobody has either... I'm planning on having someone else build this for me as I don't have the tools nor skill to do it myself. I have a few questions:
1. The tree base/platform, what's a good recommended thickness?
2. The platform for the scratchpad... is there any certain reason it's so much thicker compared to the other platforms?
Thanks.
Sun, 09/12/2021 - 11:51
Reverse engineering this project, using just 2x4s. None of the photos show the undersides. How are the plywood pillow bases attached for the top and bottom of the cabin? and the base of the top viewing platform?
Sun, 09/12/2021 - 16:42
There are no Minwax water based stain colors with those names that I can find.
Needed a custom build to fit the plumbing and size requirement for my master bath.
Wed, 04/21/2021 - 10:01
This is exactly the size I need to build, potentially with the same plumbing requirements. Would you mind sharing your plans, please?
Tue, 06/13/2023 - 18:29
This is the exact size and style I am looking for as well. Would you mind sharing the plans with me as well?
Sat, 03/08/2025 - 12:32
This looks terrific! Any chance you would be willing to share plans for this build? Thanks!
I modified the plans for the Classic Bunk beds by making them 74" tall instead of 63" and added a fourth slat all the way around to add more protection from potential falls. I created one opening in the front for my youngest to get into the bottom bunk, and built slats about 2/3's across the front to act as a gaurd rail. I created another opening on the side for my oldest to get into the top bunk with stairs instead of ladders to again prevent falls. I had to modify the Sweet Pea stairs to accomodate for the extra height in the bunk beds, simplified the railings, and I created each cubby to be big enough to use cloth storage totes that were 11x11x11. Sanded the whole bed and stairs so the corners and edges were all rounded and smooth, and put two coats of white Deck and Porch paint to stand up to the the boys running up and down. I used brackets to secure the stairs to the bed, and sixteen 3" bolts to bind the bed together. Precut and drilled 17 slats for each bed seperated them 2" apart. Spent a few hours every night during the week measuring, cutting, glueing, drilling and assembling the bed and stairs. Spent an entire weekend sanding and painting. Very happy with the way these beds turned out. Overall cost of the project including the paint was around $400.
This is our 2nd project - we liked building the bookshelf so much, we decided we're gonna keep going and need a good workbench. Got these plans from the Family Handyman Website (http://www.familyhandyman.com/DIY-Projects/Woodworking/Workbenches/how-…). They claim the cost to be $50, but it was closer to $80 for us - still a GREAT project and easy to put together with the nail gun.
Sat, 04/16/2022 - 07:29
No working link. Cannot find this or the plans.
I followed the Rustic X Tall Bookshelf plan to make a set of bookshelves for my husband for Christmas! It was my second ever woodworking project. The plan was really easy to follow and so fun to make! I ended up using an additional shelf piece on the very top for a more modern spin on it. I also bought a pocket hole jig to use on this project. I'm happy with how it turned out!
I live in a smaller rental with limited garage space, so I needed a place for my kids bikes. This is what I came up with. It required minimal screw holes in the treated fence posts and I attached a rail system(rubbermaid fasttrak) for the bikes to hang from. I used Ana's easy shelves plan for the upright supports and then just added some corrugated roofing and cedar fence pickets (which I had on hand) to finish off the top.
I found these plans online and was just waiting for the kids' grandpa to come out and build it. Could be built in one afternoon (depending on how many trips to your local Home Depot, and availability of the correct tools)
Modifications from original plan:
6x6 instead of 4x4
Brackets to hold patio umbrella for shade
Added seat gussets for additional support
Added "wooden flange" around bottom of box to run lawnmower on
One additional center back support on each bench
One centered handle (instead of a handle on each end)
Stapled landscape weed barrier fabric onto the bottom
Sanded all exposed edges
Materials:
4@2x10x8'
12@1x6x6'
2@2x6x12'
8 hinges
2 handles
3 1/2" decking screws (for attaching 2"x boards)
1 5/8" decking screws (for attaching 1"x boards)
2+ 1 1/4" 2-hole straps for metal conduit (for attaching patio umbrella*)
*Our patio umbrella pole was 1 1/2" diameter, but 1 1/2" straps had too much play, so we used 1 1/4" straps and misc flat washers to adjust the snugness to the pole
Cut lengths:
2@2x10 cut to 72" (long sides of the box)
2@2x10 cut to 69" (short sides of the box)
Cut one each of the following out of a 12 footer:
2@2x6 cut to 75" (long side "flange")
2@2x6 cut to 64" (short side "flange")
No cuts were made to the 12 1x6's
Used one leftover 2' from the 2x8x10's ripped in half cut to 11.5" for arm rests
Used two leftover 2' sections from the 2x8x10's ripped in half cut to 21" for back supports
Used the last 2' cutoff to make two seat gussets (cut about 9 1/2" off and then ripped it at 45 degrees)
Used the remaining piece (ripped in half length-ways) to attach to the center of the backrest for additional support and as the attachment point for our handles
We decided to do one handle in the center of the backrest so one reasonably strong adult could open the lid
The bottom "flange" was assembled with the box upside down. Basically a 2x6 screwed to the bottom edge of the box allowing 1 1/2" overhang all the way around
After making cuts, but before assembly, we recommend using a quarter-sheet pad sander (or similar) with 60 grit paper to break all of the edges and round over any ends or corners that will be in contact with sandbox users
Followed other general assembly instructions
This project was made from reclaimed wood from my office where they had built a temporary safety railing out of 2x4s and 2x6s. I added a compartment for storage. The top is stained in a classic grey. I painted the body in black followed by white. I then sanded the body to allow the black to bleed through for a distressed look.
I found a picture of this style of chairs, and I really wanted to make them for my table. I created my own plans and adjusted them until they were perfect. I’ve since made several sets of chairs for other people including this set of 6.
Wed, 12/18/2019 - 07:57
I'd love to make these for my parents, do you have the plans?
We desperately needed a gate to keep our pets from accessing the rooms, with carpet, in our new home. We originally thought about building a full barn door but, the security system was in the way and it wouldn’t have allowed the light to pass through to our dark entryway anyway. We definitely wanted to steer away from the “barn door looking” gate we did at our last home and wanted to try something more timeless with the sprayed, black caning. We have a very eclectic style. Very vintage industrial, MCM, with pops of RH glam and a touch of BOHO. Sounds confusing but, I needed this gate to take the pressure off of trends we didn’t quite fit in and be easy to use for my teenager. The gate leads to her bed/bath and the guest rooms. The mechanism is not my design but, it’s brilliant, especially for the industrial element to our home. Took me close to 4 days from start to finish. Lost my Kreg jig in our move and was so thankful to a stranger-neighbor that willingly let me borrow his on the curiosity of what exactly I was building. NGL, it felt pretty good when he said how impressed he was with the build. 💞
Tue, 02/28/2023 - 07:16
This looks superb, thank you so much for sharing your super cool gate!
Wed, 09/18/2024 - 09:37
Hi! Can you show or tell me more about the mechanism? What does it look like on the other side? How has it held up?
I made this coop twice as wide like Ana suggested since I have 4 chickens and wanted to make sure there was some extra wiggle room in case “chicken math” got the best of us. I made a nesting box to mount on the outside. I also used plywood for the sides like Ana did in the video. I installed a Run Chicken automatic door that opens at sunrise and closes at sunset. I added some hasps and clasps to make sure all my doors would close tightly. I put hardware cloth across the top before installing the roof panels. I stapled and buried hardware cloth around the perimeter for predator protection. I also spray painted the hardware cloth flat black so that it would be easier for us to see inside the coop. I stained the rest of the wood with Varathane Semi-Transparent stain, color “Carbon Gray.” I also added some roosts and cedar shingle siding for some extra protection during our New England winters at to match our house. Working 2-4 hours a day, off and on, with a bum shoulder and weak hands, this took me about a week! Thanks for the great plan, Ana!
This was just a standard BBQ with an attached folding table. I used a combo of Ana's plans to add a little character and style to the BBQ and it made a huge difference in not only the BBQ, but also the backyard.
Mon, 05/23/2016 - 12:29
Hello: Very interested in which plans you used to build the BBQ Built In. Thank you.
Wed, 06/08/2016 - 09:22
Hello dbryant1977, please share the plans. Also, what's brand/model of BBQ? Very nice.
Thu, 04/09/2020 - 18:27
This is my guess on the plans used! https://www.ana-white.com/woodworking-projects/diy-grill-island-featuri…
Fri, 08/30/2019 - 09:50
Are there plans for this project or at least some pictures from while you were building it?
Thu, 04/09/2020 - 18:27
This is my guess on the plans used! https://www.ana-white.com/woodworking-projects/diy-grill-island-featuri…
Wed, 04/22/2020 - 15:52
Can you provide us with the plans for this? I would love to build one.
Mon, 03/04/2024 - 14:49
Hello: Very interested in which plans you used to build the BBQ Built In. Thank you.
My father and I made this awesome poolside towel cabinet using the Benchmark Cabinet plans. A super easy 1 day build and it looks amazing on the patio. Bring on the pool weather!
Needed a shed to store bikes and mowers, etc, so I'd have more room in the woodshop : ) I made a lot of modifications to the plan to fit my space and make it much larger. The completed size is 7 foot tall at the peak, 6 feet deep and 5.5 feet wide. I made it as a 3 sided shed, using the wall as the 4th to save on cost, increase air flow, and make the exterior house wall accessible. I also made an egress in the back of the shed in order to get behind the shed if needed.
Instead of roofing shingles, I opted for ribbed metal sheets and one clear sheet in the middle to make a skylight, so there would be light in the shed. This is my favorite part of the project. It was a huge pain to attach the roofing from a ladder with very limited access, but it looks great and I love the light coming in. We have very little rain in CA, so I'll have to wait until winter/rainy season in order to test out its waterproofing.
Since the shed sits between the house and the neighbors block wall fence, and I wanted to use as much of the space as I could, I decided to design the shed to have the side wall against the house rather than the back wall, as shown in the plan. This took a large amount of modifications, but with careful planning and measuring, it can be done. This also meant blocking off access to behind the shed, so I cut an egress in the back wall and added hinges so you can lift the back cut out panel, and rest it on a stop block attached to the fence behind it in order to have access. That's what woodworking is about- problem solving. Love it.
As you can see by the full shed picture, it fits a large amount of stuff- 2 adult bikes, mower, edger, trimmer, chainsaw, hedge trimmer, garden tools, shovels, etc, with plenty of room for more. I now have a free corner in my garage that I've already filled with a DIY rolling workbench and more pegboard space for tool hanging. Woodshop increased space= happy Brittany.
I should also mention that building the frame and adding the pickets was quite a quick and easy job. The hardest and most time consuming part was the roof (I didn't have metal cutting tools), rolling each very heavy wall to the site (I was alone) and the previous 2 weeks in which I built the paver patio the shed sits on. Hard work, but worth it. I love it!
Thu, 08/20/2015 - 05:56
And for under $300! Nice touch with the skylight also. Two thumbs up.
In reply to This is awesome! by Cross35
Thu, 08/20/2015 - 09:42
Thank you! I'm very pleased with how it turned out!
Mon, 04/27/2020 - 10:28
SWEET!!! What a great use of space! That skylight was a brilliant idea. No lights needed to see what you need to get at in there. Well done!
In reply to SWEET!!! What a great use… by carewarner
Mon, 01/25/2021 - 13:15
It has been incredibly useful for storing! One thing about the skylight- Over time the sun has warped it and there is now a hole and crack there. So I wouldn't plan on the clear roofing being a long term solution- I will be replacing it with either thicker clear roofing or 2 layers.
Wed, 05/06/2020 - 13:15
Love the design and space saver idea, brilliant! How can I get the dimensions? Tks
In reply to Love the design and space… by shed man
Mon, 01/25/2021 - 13:25
I just went out and measured- 6' wide and deep, 7' tall at its tallest point, tapering down to about 5' tall. Hope this helps!
In reply to Love this! by V2theicki
Mon, 01/25/2021 - 13:14
I based it off of this plan, but heavily modded it to fit our space. https://www.ana-white.com/woodworking-projects/small-cedar-shed
Hope that helps!
Tue, 06/23/2020 - 20:26
This is exactly what I want to do for the side of my home , I also would love to get the plans for this .
In reply to This is exactly what I want… by ajg1972
Mon, 01/25/2021 - 13:16
I used Ana's plans here, but heavily modded it to fit my space: https://www.ana-white.com/woodworking-projects/small-cedar-shed
Sun, 02/21/2021 - 09:39
Did you use cedar pickets?
And what did you use for the roofing material?
The concept of hidden boot storage at the back is genius!!! I knew as soon as I saw your plan that I needed that in this space! Thank you so much for what you do!
Fri, 01/22/2021 - 11:42
May I ask how you would assemble if you wanted the hinge in the back as in this picture?
Thank you.
Wed, 08/25/2021 - 04:51
Hello, can you tell me how to find the plans for the Mudroom Closet makeover? I’m interested in doing the one pictured on this page.
Thank you
Platform (Pedestal) with Drawers for front-loader Washer & Dryer. Cheaper than buying the manufacturer's plastic pedestals and more fun to build anyway! The drawers are also much wider and deeper than the manufacturer's pedestals. We can usually fit about 3 full loads of laundry in each drawer. (That's 6 loads of laundry before we have to start folding!) It's a very easy and basic DIY project. I made a 2nd one for my brother using these plans (sans the drawers). I gotta say, the drawers are SO nice to have though. But you could just leave the front open, without drawers, and slide some laundry baskets underneath for an even quicker project. We've been using this platform now for over 2 years and there is still no squeaking or rattling. The washer & dryer haven't moved from the vibration even in the slightest. They're exactly where I placed them on the pedestal 2 years ago. There's also zero problem with the weight of the washer either...it really is a strong frame. (After finishing, I jumped up and down on it!) A couple small tweaks I would make doing it over is raising the drawers a 1/2" in. off the floor to tuck a rug underneath (as is, they sit about 1/8" in. off the floor). Also, I would cut out a couple of square holes in the back panel to access those socks that fall behind (I can't access the sides of my W&D in our particular laundry room). Lastly, I would have painted with a quality paint (I just used a few cans of white spray paint to be quicker). Step-by-Step Plans and Materials List (PDF) and many more photos found at the Blog Link below...I'm certainly no professional "Plans Writer" so email if you have questions! Happy DIY-ing! Estimated Cost: ~$200 (2x6 lumber, plywood, drawer trim, nails, screws, paint)
Wed, 03/13/2013 - 10:12
I have wanted to do the pedestal project for quite a while. I am so glad I held off though. Yours are fantastic! I would never have thought of drawers to hide the dirty laundry! Love it!
Fri, 02/07/2014 - 17:05
Hello this looks great and for the amateur carpenter I am but one item I need clarified "the top measurement at 64" is .25" greater than the bottom at 63.75"
Please explain if I am missing something
Thanks
Mon, 02/10/2014 - 15:33
Not sure what measurement you mean that's 63.75" since there's no "bottom" to the pedestals. Or do you mean 1/4" wider than the sides? The top panel should overhang both sides by 1/4" each so that when the side plywood is attached, it will be flush. Hopefully that helps? (If I'm understanding the question correctly)
Mon, 02/24/2014 - 10:29
Could leave the back panel of plywood out so you could reach what may fall behind? Then you would just have to pull the drawers out?
Thu, 12/03/2015 - 06:11
Did you ever find out if you can leave off the back panel?
Wed, 06/22/2016 - 16:35
Back panel is very very structural and provides lot of strength. If i wanted more access than the 5-7 inch of duct space behind the pedestal gives me, then i would replace the back panel with a long 2x6, that holds the three legs from going in different directions due to all that weight.
Mon, 12/12/2016 - 14:58
This is the one modification I could make if i could redo these plans...I would still put on the back panel of plywood as it stabilizes the pedestal, I would just have cut out a rectangle (behind each drawer) so that I could remove the drawers and stick my hand/arm through to grab fallen clothes or vacuum the lint.
Mon, 12/18/2017 - 19:17
Rather than cut holes in the back, I just cut the back and side boards a little small and left a gap around the bottom the whole way around. That way I can get a vaccuum hose in there or reach through and get lost items. Because my washer and dryer seem to be deeper than yours (I needed at least 33" depth, so I went with 3'), that also worked out well in getting the most out of the boards. I could do the top, back, and sides out of one single sheet of good 3/4" plywood just leaving those small gaps at the bottom for clean-up and retreival.
Fri, 11/20/2015 - 05:23
Hello,
I downloaded the pdf but have exactly the same information that the website html, where can I find a solution step by step guide?
Thank you for all the interesting posts.
Mon, 12/12/2016 - 14:55
The original step-by-step plans are found on Ana-White:
http://www.ana-white.com/2011/01/sausha%E2%80%99s-washerdryer-pedestals
The cover is a tonneau cover for a pickup truck. It's for a 6.5' truck bed so if you notice, I had to ad a 2x4 and one more picket on top to accommodate the extra length.
The cover would add a ridiculous amount of money to the project but it was repurposed. I found it on a truck that was in an accident and going to the scrap yard. I think it it came out great and my grandson loves it.
John
I used Ana's plan as a base.
I changed it from 8x8 to 8x12, made the 4x4x8's to 4x4x10' for a higher main platform and swing platform, and added a 12' long monkey bar set to the other side. Also, an 8' climbing wall and a plank walkway to accompany the two slides.
For the clubhouse, I used Hardiplank 4x8 sheets for the siding and an EZ-Framer kit for the structure itself.
The slides I purchased from Lowes, monkey bars from Amazon, and the swing frame braces from Amazon as well. The swing kits I got from ebay.
With the help of friends and family, we managed to build this greenhouse rather easily. We had to start with the foundation since the spot we chose was not an even grade. We did this by filling sono tubes with cement and leveling each off so the greenhouse would have a solid place to sit. We then built out a frame around the outside of the cement tubes with some reclaimed 6x6's. After that, we filled the space with 5 tons of river rock and then got to work! After the foundation was ready putting the rest of the house together was a piece of cake. The frame was so easy to put together. We had a few minor kinks to work out here and there, I won't say this house came out 100% perfectly, BUT I am so happy with the end results. We chose to paint it a deep green color as a final touch. So far we just moved a few potted plants from our deck to the greenhouse for the winter. It has been working very well to keep the plants cozy during the colder days we've had. Eventually, I plan to build a potting station, shelving, and most likely a garden bed for winter harvests.
Mon, 11/09/2020 - 09:52
The foundation looks great the greenhouse looks amazing! I'm sure fun was had building it too:) Thanks for sharing.