Community Brag Posts

This plan turned out perfect!! Such a great idea, thank you for the inspiration!

I saw this project on YouTube under Arbor Pergola Swing. It did not mention any specific detailed plans or cut list but it was enough to get me started. I began with (2) 10' 6" x 6" post. buried each 24" and cemented. I cut the post tops at 83" from ground line. The rafter consist of (2) 10' 2"x 6". I used the leftovers of the 6" x 6" post tops in the middle of my rafters to hang the swing from with 1/2 " eye bolt. Then I used (9) 2" x 2 " x 8' and cut each at 36" to finish off the top and (2) 2x6x8 for the 4 rafter supports. I drew out the designs of the rafters and top ends free hand and at made a template for the cuts with s jigsaw.

The entire cost including hardware minus the swing was $170. My wife had purchased the swing last Fall at a clearance for $40 brand new.

My husband and I built a garden tool shed using your plans for a "Small Outdoor Shed or Closet." We needed exactly this size for our available space. (THANK YOU! The video was really helpful and the plans were very detailed.) We are not handy at ALL, and are definitely beginners when it comes to woodworking. But, when the person who was supposed to build it for us was delayed, we thought we could try it, or at least START.

We bought a lower-end Kreg pocket jig and a secondhand mitre saw, and set to work, using T1-11 siding. We ended up building the entire shed ourselves, and were very surprised at the end result (and proud too!). The hardest part was building the doors, since we weren't really sure how to construct them to keep them from bowing. We ended up putting trim all around the edges of the T1-11 plywood doors, inside and out. (We were too far into building them when we realized we probably should have done it differently.) We also couldn't figure out how to get the double doors to stay tightly shut, but ended up using a rotating block (see picture) at the bottom and it works great, especially given that one of the doors had a slight bow at the bottom.

I think the only ways in which we deviated from the plan were that we added trim, an additional 2x4 up high across the back of the shed (for hanging long-handled tools), and two interior shelves on the left (from leftover siding). We used colored corrugated polycarbonate sheeting over the roof instead of asphalt shingles. (Unfortunately you have to use specific screws for the sheeting and one length was too short and the other too long and protrudes through the roofing slightly, into the interior. But we like the pop of color the sheeting adds, and REALLY didn't want to do shingles for such a small area, nor did we know how to do shingles.)

My final suggestions would be that a mitre saw and pocket jig are REALLY helpful and using star head screws is easier. I would also suggest that you paint everything (prime and color coat) before assembly and just touch up afterwards, especially if you use a lot of trim as we did. We primed and painted the siding but just primed the trim, and it was a real pain to put the color coat on all that 1x3 trim after construction.

This plan is listed as an "intermediate" project and I think that's probably a correct designation. As beginners, it just took BOTH of us to figure it all out (we work really well together) and to build it, and it took a much longer time than it would for someone with more experience.

My husband, step father and I built these Thanksgiving weekend (2010) and my mom got us a half bushel of oysters to snack on and made awesome steamed mussels with bread for dinner. This was a very fun family weekend.

I modifyed the plans a little to make the arms angle in a bit instead of being straight boards and also created the curved front. Then after building the first chair, Pat decided to make the second chair's back rest taller and cut angles to match the arms.

I picked intermediate because of needing a miter saw for all the different angles needed for getting the front right.
Also, It took one day for each chair

I built this project in 6 separate pieces before installing it in our home. I pulled the baseboard and attached it to the wall to give it a built-in feel.  For the majority of the project, I used 3/4" plywood with the exception if 1/4" plywood for the back of the shelves as well as the centers of the cabinet doors.  For the trim, I used select pine boards.  I had to work around an airconditioning vent that was in the floor.  I was able to divert it to run out the bottom of the bookcase. 

This build is loosely based on the Willy Bookcase.  I actually found another brag post on the Willy Bookcase that was immensely helpful in constructing my project.  I'm so grateful for the brag boards!  Instead of fixing all of the shelves like the Willy, I used a Kreg shelf pin jig to make the shelves adjustable.  The shelf that lines up with the TV is fixed for stability. 

The estimate below covers all of the wood, paint, screws, hardware, etc.  For fun, I'm including an in progress photo to illustrate the process.  Thanks for looking!

Also, a note - this is a relatively easy project, however, I listed it as "intermediate" because of the cabinet doors.  They definitely made it more complicated!

Hand mad love edge bar

I love how this bed frame turned out! Everywhere that has stain is cedar and the rest is all scrap spruce. Thanks for another great plan Ana!

Made a footstool by modifying the rustic X end table plans. I used all scrap wood, foam, and fabric from my various stashes so this was free for me to make. Also, on all of my x tables, I use a dado blade so the exes are intact and not cut and screwed.