Stocking Stand
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So fun! Directions were easy! Can also be used as Backpack hanger if you put a little bit longer feet on them. I bought the metal hooks from Walmart.
So fun! Directions were easy! Can also be used as Backpack hanger if you put a little bit longer feet on them. I bought the metal hooks from Walmart.
I loved the look of the Craft room Storage tower but modified to suit my wife's bathroom theme/decor. The inside back (MDF beadboard) is painted a milk coffee color to lighten it up. The door inserts are plexiglass, which was more expensive than glass but with 2 boys 6 and 2 it is well spent, and the MDF beadboard. Covered the plexiglass with self-adhesive film for glass on both sides to hide the towels inside. This project took me about 12 hours to complete but over a 3 month period, mostly spent on finishing the project with my boys underfoot or at 12-2am. YIKES!!! If i keep this up she will want to buy instead of letting me build.
Price List:
wood: $100
Stain/Paint: left over from house reno. would have been $15 stain $20 Varnish 30$ quart of paint
Handle: $7
Hinges: $4 basic style
I wanted to use Eurostyle hinges but opted to buy the Kreg system instead of Forstner drill bits.
Will be building another just different dimensions for laundry room makeover.
Sat, 01/26/2013 - 12:18
Thanks! It was my first furniture building project! I did a huge reno that i did on my house but that is construction and 1/8th in isnt as big of an issue as in furniture.
Mon, 01/28/2013 - 20:45
I've been wanting to build something similar for my bathroom! Yours turned out great. It inspires me to get to work!
I've been looking at all of these plans for awhile and finally decided to take the plunge. My son and I built the little Rhyan Console Table to use as a sideboard in my small-ish dining room. There's an 84" farm table, 8 chairs, and 2 corner cabinets. I hate to have to squeeze by people who are seated at the table, so I was looking for a narrow unit to use as a sideboard. We made the legs 4" taller than the plans called for to make it a better height for use as a sideboard. With Thanksgiving in just a few days, we put the hardware on today so it will be ready to put into service. We are already looking forward to our next project.
So, my skills have been as a cobbler, handy kind of guy for decades. Rough shelving for shop/garage basement storage etc... I've always done all my home maintenance and repairs so I'm familiar with a lot of stuff in and around the house. However I've never attempted a finished piece of furniture before. As always, I love the build and hate the finishing process.
My daughter had a pretty new mattress that she loved which was 13 inches thick and her celling is the standard 8 feet. Consider these kind of things before you build this design. We did and the plans were altered a little bit. We'll be building the bookcase later and either buying or building a desk as well. She can set up in bed with several inches above her head and there will be plenty of room over her head in a standard height office/computer chair underneath. All I basically did was; add a few inches to the height of the legs and uprights for the guard rail (4" I think), increased the head, foot, back and guard rail top planks from 1X4s to 1X6s. Which changed the dimensions of some of the spacers too. She isn't sure she wants the top rails on it but I think I'll put them on later.
We made our own bunkie board for firmer support, which also raised the thickness about 1/4" over just slats.
Details: Ladder fits tight between the leg and the guard rail. Glad I got those dimensions right. We'll be using Velcro to fasten the ladder to the bed (it's that tight, it'll be fine and she's 14yrs old). This way we can take it off easier to clean, move etc. Glue and screw everything you can except the long boards that will allow it to be broken down. Glue them and you'll never get it apart without breaking it. I used Titebond III on everything else with lots of clamps along the way.
On the front and back of the ladder treads I simply smeared some filler in the joints to smooth them out. You can see the result in the pictures. There is one closeup of the finish so you can see how it turned out doing it the way I did. If you want is smoother then a 220 sandpaper finish is what was called for on the clear finish, which I didn't do.
I also said it was a weekend project 10-20hrs. Had I bought better wood and did an easier finish it would have been. My learning experiences/errors made it longer than that for me.
Lessons Learned:
1. Buy better wood! If you want a better finish buy better wood. By the time I was finished filling, sanding, filling again, sanding some more... I used almost a whole quart of filler to make knotty pine smooth. Just buy smooth wood, I'm tellin ya! Hours of work and dry time. Again, if you want a good finish, then you need to shellac knotty pine so the resin from the knots doesn't bleed through. Better wood might have added 5-10% to the materials cost but saved several hours and would have looked even better that what I achieved. Better wood and you could cut the shellac ($15 per quart) if you didn't want the two tone distressing.
2. Check the actual board dimensions. For outer facing pieces I bought some better wood with no knots (radiata pine). These were for the outside pieces on the legs. They were just a bit wider than the common boards that were sandwiched between them... more sanding and filling to get a nice square smooth finish. It also made clamping and gluing them together harder before the filling and sanding could even begin. See number 1 above. lol
Anyhow, I'm not afraid of building furniture anymore and my daughter loves it. OH, yes now we have to repaint her room and accessorize for the ocean cabin look. More projects with my daughter. YAY!!!!
Thanks Ana
Mon, 12/14/2020 - 09:59
The bed looks amazing and I can see many more projects in your future, I appreciate your added tips!
we built this table for our new home when we couldn't find an existing table that we wanted for under $1000. we were hesitant to attempt building it ourselves since we haven't attempted anything similar before, but knew we could do it with a plan. there were a couple bumps in the road as we learned how to read the plan and understand the different techniques, but we LOVE the end result. Especially because it didn't cost us anything out of pocket! {we had a lowes giftcard:)} the total came to about $130 for all the supplies; including the paint and poly for the finishing.
read more about the process on my blog: http://www.carissamiss.com/2012/11/house-projects-completed.html
Since we needed some space to hide all of our not so midcentury technology gadgets I decided to try myself on this beautiful credenza.
Build was fairly straight forward. I cleaned the looks up a little with using my router and cutting some dados for the divider and rabbets for the box itself. Worked out really well. Also I found some really nice hardware online but wasn’t willing to pay 20$ a piece for them so I made them myself. I think this brings the build to another level. For a finish I used dark walnut stain and 5 coats of arm-r-seal. Love that stuff…..super easy to use! Also I finished the finish with a coat of paste wax! Makes it super slick and gives the grain a little more depth!
I really want to build the farm house storage bed. But I also need end tables right now. So I made these to go with the bed I hope to make soon! Its 17"x17"x27" high. I used cheap draw slides I got at lowes for under $5.00. The legs are 2x2 that were ripped from 2x4's. The rest is pine boards.
Farm table made fro 2x4 and 4x4 (can't find the original plan). The mirrow frame was also my first frame project. Thanks for the great plans!
Wed, 12/03/2014 - 11:58
Wow, I love it! I wish you still had the plans because I'm looking to build something almost exactly like this, just a tad longer!
I was planning on building a greenhouse some time next year but I just happen to see this by chance and fell in love with it. I've always built from my own designs but when I saw this I decided to purchase the plans. I couldn't be more happy with it. Right now its doubling as a feed room. I wanted a solid foundation so I build a floating deck to mount the walls on. The deck added quite a bit to the total price.
Wed, 12/23/2020 - 09:52
Love that you're able to double it as a feed room, great job on this build!
We found two old windows with the original hardware. They were covered with chipping lead based paint so we pulled off what paint we could (safely). We then painted them over with oil based Kilz before the final coat. We then built the cupboard from there. We decided to go with a more rustic look since the windows were still a little rough. We applied a crackle finish in a few spots using white glue to add to the rustic texture.
tryde console table with a twist... Added shelf above and below. Created a smaller version for a matching side table. Double layered top with staggered wood pattern. I receive compliments every time someone new comes over. Solid piece of furniture. Looks very expensive.
Thu, 12/04/2014 - 22:52
Fabulous! I love the dark stain! Thanks for sharing!
My first woodworking project with the new miter saw my wife got me for Christmas. She was very happy with the results, and we're now receiving order requests :)
Working off of Ana's easy and classicly styled nesting table plan, we decided to go with a stain finish to match the furniture in our formal living room. Building the tables was quite easy and fast. The time was in the waiting for the stain to dry and be ready to apply multiple coats as needed. Staining obviously takes much longer to complete, but well worth the wait.
We used the basic design of the salsa console and moved the drawers and doors to a design that we preferred for hiding our junk.
Built this using the Anna White's "MIMI'S FAUX MANTLE" but instead of using crown molding I elected to use STONE TILES in a neutral tone and finished the surround and mantle in white giving the piece a nice soft appeal. The building plans were easy to follow and took about 2 days to complete the whole process not to mention how reasonable the cost was. I already had the tiles and adhesive from a left over bathroom mirror frame.
Tv Stand for My mother for Christmas. Couldn't find untreated 4x4s so i used cedar. Found now after the project was done that Menards has untreated 4x4's, even Red Oak.
My husband and I worked together on this project. He built it and painted/stained. Plans were used fro link below.
http://ana-white.com/2012/08/plans/daybed-storage-trundle-drawers
I wanted to build an L shaped outdoor bar with a 2 post pergola over the grill. I couldn't find any plans online that would fit the space I had, so I decided to build it myself with custom dimensions. The top bar is approx. 7'3" across, and 15" wide, while the distance from the right edge (next to the house) to the end of the bar is approx. 9'1".
I framed it with PT lumber and the 2 pergola posts are sitting on top of the pavers and supported internally within some of the framing studs. Since the pavers sit on top of concrete, I didn't feel the need to dig up the existing pavers and achor them in the ground.
I used hardiboard for the exterior and tiled the lower section of the bar.
For the actual high bar top, I wanted to do something unique, and found a 900 year old scrap slab of Cypress at a local lumber yard. One side was smooth, but underneath was gouged out from different saw cuts and very uneven. I screwed a piece of 3/4" PT plywood underneath and trimmed it with 1-1/2" Cypress. I stained the whole thing with a dark honey colored stain and put a generous amount of poly on it once it was dry. There are a few cracks and nicks on it, but once it was stained, it looked awesome.
Wed, 06/19/2019 - 13:23
Looks awesome. I have been wanting something like this for a while now. Where can we can plans for this?
Comments
Ana White Admin
Thu, 12/10/2020 - 09:59
Perfect!
It looks great, thanks for sharing!