Community Brag Posts

We built a toybox for our son and discovered that he isn't quite tall enough yet to really get into it. So, to remedy the problem I put together a stool for him. I modified the "simplest stool" plan to make it short and wide. Perfect as a little boost to get into the toybox. We also use it in the bathroom as a little step stool for the sink.

I followed the plans as listed pretty closely. I added a 2x4 under the main shelf for extra support, and used 2x4s instead of 2x2s at the bottom, so I could have something to attach the casters to. I also opted for 1x3 braces, rather than the hinges to hold up the sides. I need to add the fence and paint it white.

I actually got the idea from Shanty 2 Chic and I thought I would share my take on it here. It was super simply...I just kreg jig'd the boards together and built a frame to the size I wanted. I bought the aluminum from Lowe's and cut it down. I actually built 6 of these so I could give 5 away as thank you gifts. The price for all 6 was under $50 and I think only about $30 of that was the materials to make the boards. The rest was spend on the stuff I made for the boards.

Here is a link for their post! http://www.shanty-2-chic.com/2012/05/diy-12-magnetic-memo-board.html

This build was quite easy. I didn't run into any issues. I went with stair balusters for the legs instead of the 2x2's that the design calls for, but the balusters ended up being 2x2 anyways so I didn't need to make any changes. My building costs were a bit pricier as I find there's a slight price difference for lumber here in Canada. The construction of the table itself took about an hour or so, however the finishing took much longer due to the painting, staining and then lacquering and waxing!
I decided to go with a more distressed/aged look for my finish, and I thought the glass knobs would look gorgeous. I also decided to line the inside storage area because it just looked a little bland to me! All-in-all I'm very happy with the outcome!

This took new novice DIYers about 25 hrs. Also this table is really heavy when complete so build it where you want it to sit or build in it one place and right before you are about to finish move the 3 built peieces separely where you want it to sit and finish assymbling it. Also, when completed this is counter height. We are going to take ours apart abit and shave 6in or so off the legs to be normal table height.

We built this table using Ana White's patio table plan. We modified it slightly only to use pallet wood for the top. With the pallet wood varying by width, we had to adjust the quantity of slats needed for the top. Using the pallet wood for the top also reduced the cost a bit. We think it turned out great! The plan was VERY easy!

This was my first major woodworking project, and I am so pleased with it! I have been looking for a piece of furniture like this and couldn't find something that I liked and could afford. I spent about $180 in lumber, and also took Ana's advice and invested in a Kreg Jig. I HIGHLY recommend this! It is expensive ($100) but so worth it. I had to learn a few things along the way, and had encountered some obstacles, but in the end I am very pleased with the project. A few things I learned on my first project:

1. Exact cuts are SO important. Every 1/8" matters. It was helpful to do as many cuts as possible at the lumber store.

2. Ana mentions this in her beginners section, but it bears repeating: wood glue will repel stain. Be sure to wipe away ALL residue of wood glue before staining, and be sure to give extra sanding attention to areas that had wood glue. Otherwise you will have a white spot in the midst of your stain.

3. On this plan in particular there is one change that I recommend. Do not add the wrap around trip on the top and bottom until AFTER you have put the plywood backing on in the last step. The reason is that the plywood adds another 3/4 inch, and so there was a gap between the edge of the trip and the back on the furniture. I redid it on the top because it was so noticeable.

Built this table for my niece 3 years ago which she still wont let go of even though its getting small for her..  I mostly had all the materials needed minus paint which i got from home depot. Pretty straight forward project that i got done in a few hours. She was 3 at the time and is now 6 and still has the table which she still uses and has.

Floating Shelves

I live in Japan right now and my wife and daughters went to the states to visit family for 3 weeks. I decided to make a few projects. I went to my local home improvement store (HOMES), which is a combo of Lowes, Walmart, a pet store, and a furniture store rolled into one crazy store. I purchased the wood for about 11000 yen, paint for 1080 yen, hinges 800 yen, and door knobs for 2880 yen. Grand total of basically $200. I found that it is not cheap to buy supplies over here. I modified the plan and made 16 "drawers" instead of 20 due to the height of the space where I am putting the table. I used the plan for finishing with the distressed coffee stain. I really like it in our room.

Tools:
Miter Saw
Table Saw
Jig Saw (b/c my bandsaw is down)
Oscillating Spindle Sander
Orbital Sander
Router
1/8" roundover bit
1/4" roundover bit
Kreg Jig
Tape Measure
Tri Square

Materials:
S4S Poplar
Kreg Screws
Kreg Stain Grade wood plugs
3" panhead screws with matching washers and wingnuts to attach basket to rocker.

This is my third "Ana" project. I've built her baby changing table and the child tower thing for toddlers to stand at a counter.

I built two of these rocking stands for the Moses Bassinet (found on Amazon). The first was a prototype and joints at the rockers were just straight pieces of wood cut at the angle of the rocker. I built it out of pine from the big box store and used my Kreg jig for the pocket holes.

The second one (featured) I used S4S poplar which cost more but came pretty well uniform. I still had to find boards that were free of twist and bows, but that just took time and was easy to do. I use a "lay it on the floor" method and flip it to see if it rocks, twists, etc.. It works for now. I still find myself cutting around imperfections though. With this second rocker, I molded the sides into the rocker-bottoms./
I'm saving to buy a planer, which will be the last major tool for the wood shop (garage), so then I can mill my own lumber and be done with HD and L's.

Just some observations and steps I took:

To make the rockers and other parts of the project uniform that had curves which needed to be parallel to each other, etc., I used double-sided tape and put the pieces together when cutting and sanding. I recommend using the least amount of tape as possible. I learned the hard way and on the prototype rockers, I covered the entire surface of the pieces with the tape. It took an act of God to get the pieces to release after I had spent an hour or so cutting and sanding the edges. It nearly failed to come apart and I would've had to start over because it was the 3 major components that were taped together like this. On the second run with the featured rocker, I used a couple small pieces of double-sided tape. This held together through cutting and sanding without any issue.

I rounded some of the edges w/ a 1/8th or a 1/4" roundover bit on my router. On the pieces that weren't hit by the router, I just broke the edges with sandpaper, to keep hands from getting splinters, etc.

For finish I used Minwax wood conditioner, oil based stain and polyurethane. I first sanded the entire piece to 320 by hand. I applied the conditioner as instructed. It's a must on softer wood such as pine, poplar, whitewood, etc. Otherwise, you will have blotches. After that I applied one coat of stain. I applied a coat of poly with a foam brush. I didn't like the results. I sanded it down w/ 320. I then went and bought a "nice" brush for polyurethane at the big box store for like $8.00 and applied another coat. This one came out better. I sanded it with 400 grit and applied one final coat with a fine cotton cloth.

I followed the plans on here for the most part. They are complete and were easy to follow. Thanks Ana!

I made twin beds for my boys. It was the first time making furniture. It was a pretty easy plan to follow. Lowes did all my cuts for me so I didn't even need to find a saw.

Built from recycled yellow pine bleacher seats my school I worked at wanted me to toss. No plans just made it up as I went along.

Used the Benchwright Coffee Table for all of the base which was very easy to follow. I used rough cut Alder, which I would not try to do again (way too many linear feet to cut!). I've done drawers before, and I've found that it's easier to attach the slides to the drawer box and the horizontal pieces that attach to the table. After that, attach once of the horizontal pieces first, and shim the other before attaching to the table. The top is 3 boards tall and is comprised of 1 layer of birch plywood, 1 layer of spacers, and the mitered edges on the top. The infinity mirror feature comes from a row of LED's sandwiched between a mirror (base) and glass with a semi-transparent mirror film (also known as one way mirror).