Community Brag Posts

I used the chicken shed plans to create the coop, with a modification to include two nesting boxes, one on each side.

I slightly modified the nesting boxes, using a U shaped frame and added hinges for the front to swing down and the pine shavings to be swept out.

For the siding, we found it easiest to do the tack and trace method. We tacked each full sheet of siding in place and traced the cuts for the window, roof line, doors, and nesting boxes. We then took them down, darkened the lines, cut 'em, and re-hung them. It made it a million times easier, IMHO.

For the inside, I designed several roosting bars with poop platforms. The water is a gravity fed chicken nipple/pvc setup, which I found online.

The food stations, also gravity fed, are (new) sewer pipes with wye connectors.

I used the roof and siding scraps to make shelves for storage inside.

By sourcing reclaimed materials, I built the coop, run, interior, feeding stations (5), and waterer for $550. I only bought 27 pieces of new lumber (15 2x4's and the 12 8 foot long 1x3's)

Even the paint was free! (We have a drop and swap at the haz mat recycling center run by the county. We have gotten 100's of dollars of free paint, stain, and varnish there. I even used a can of free spar varnish to seal the inside of the coop)

There are still a few pieces of trim to be cut and painted, but the girls are inside eating, drinking, and merry!

I did find that at the Home Depot, if you buy chicken wire, it costs way more then 150 feet x 36 inch "stucco netting". The stucco netting was $54 for 150 feet, and chicken wire is $76 for the same amount. It is the exact same wire.

I built the run out of resourced 1x2 furring strips. They were a pain to work with, very prone to breaking when not supported, but with the entire run costing $25 for wood and $54 (with half a roll left over) for chicken wire, I can handle some extra time and effort.

If anyone has any questions for me, feel free to contact me! I'd love to help!

I changed the height of the Connor Side Table to that of a bathroom vanity and added an apron to hide the underside of the sink.  I carefully built the vanity to be level, then discovered that the underside of the sink surround is wavy (apparently they are made by being poured into an upside down mold, hence the wavy surface).  I added trim at the top of the vanity to hide the shims stabilizing the sink top.  Thx to Rogue Engineer for the well-written plans, and thx to Ana White for your Kreg pocket hole jig video.  It made me feel confident I could pull this off!

A good friend of mine, a pastor of a local church, asked me to build a pulpit for their recently finished church up in the countryside of Grenada. She showed me a picture of what she had in mind and based on that, I drew my own plan in SketchUp, and then built it out of Yellow Pine boards and Plywood.

Note to the dimensions:
After I drew the plan, and just when I was at the lumberyard to have the plywood and boards cut, I thought I might have had it estimated not wide enough, so I decided on the spot to make it 2" wider and the top panel 2" wider and deeper too. So if you'd like to build based on my plans, please consider if it's wide enough for your purposes.

This is what I used (corrected measurements here):

2x 2x8 26" long YP Boards (Base)
1x 18 1/2" x 6 1/2" Plywood (Base Support Panel)
1x 26" x 16" Plywood (Top)
1x 18 1/2" x 9" Plywood (Shelf Panel)
2x 45" x 9 1/2" Plywood (Side Panels ) - these are cut angled, see plans
1x 44 1/2" Wood Moulding (for the "stopper" on the top panel, and the "back" of the top shelf.

this was a fun build had to tweak the plans a little but turned out great!

Took about 1 week to finish the project. I like the overall result.

Instead of using pocket hole to join the top, I use dowel and glue to join the board together. Clamp the top in sections then combine 2 large piece together. 

using the speed squre to create the 45 degree angle and use the circular saw to cut out the angled section. 

I used the table saw to cut off the round edge on 2x2 to create smooth Table apron.

Use wood filer to fill all the crack and hole from brad nail/joint. 

apply 2 layer of stain. allow it to dry overnight. Then Thin out poly with minaral Spirit to wipe on 4-5 layers.

sand finish in between with 330 grit paper

Used the plans for the twin bed, just added the difference in mattress size to the measurements. Pretty simple really. Used a cam lock centered above the door and a sawtooth picture hanger on the inside as a locking mechanism.

Weekend swing project

I built this for my little girl's room and she loves it! She loves the play area underneath especially. The build did not take that long, but the finishing (sanding and painting) took many hours. It is very sturdy. My girls sleep up there together all the time, and we have even had adults sleep up there. We didn't have a corner to put it in, so I built wider steps along the same wall as the bed. 

I made this dresser to replace two cheesy dressers my wife and I had when we first moved out on our own.  The style was taken from the Madison dresser design.  I added two more drawers as we were condensing two dressers to one and  I wanted to ensure I was able to use it!!

This project is closest to the Simple Closet Organizer, but I wanted to be able to re-use the existing components of the closet. The only purchased materials were one sheet of cabinet grade plywood and dowel rod holders (since I already had paint and screws).

We recently had our 6th child and needed to rearrange our kids' rooms.  We decided to put our 3 oldest girls together and wanted a triple bunk.  We used the classic bunk plans, but increased the height to allow for a middle bunk.  We wanted L-shaped to give each child some headroom.  We used pine wood, common board and select pine.  We finished it off with two coats of Behr interior latex paint/primer in one, satin finish.  Finished dimensions--height from floor to base of bottom bunk, 10 in.  from floor to top of top rail, 79.5 in.