Great, simple bookshelf for our nursery
My twins just turned four and were still sleeping in their toddler beds, so it was time for an upgrade. They still want to share a room so we knew we needed to maximize space and open up some room for them to play. We chose the Camp Loft Bed but raised the height to 72" (with 53" of headspace) so we might be able to add a desk underneath when they get older.
Essentially, we made two loft beds with the platforms but omitted the stairs. Then we built a slightly lower platform to put between the two beds, which acts as a step down. Then instead of making stairs that jut out into the room, we added two 2x4s as ladder rungs to the lower platform. This also acts as a tunnel for the twins to crawl under to go between each other's play spaces. This also makes it so the beds can be easily separated if we ever need to put them in separate rooms.
When it was complete we noticed one of the beds was a little wobbly, so we added diagonal braces in the corners and another 2x4 across the length of the bottom to help stabilize it. We also chose to use 1x4 pieces of pine as the slats for the mattress to lay across, but they didn't feel like they would support our weight if we wanted to read to them in bed. So we added two more 2x4s underneath the slats the entire length of the bed, which has added a ton of support.
We stopped keeping track of exactly how much it cost, but it was close to $400 for both beds combined. And it took most of my husband's free time for two weeks, but most of that was painting two coats of paint on every piece before assembling. First he cut all the pieces to size, drilled the holes with a Kreg Jig, and then painted. To make the painting more efficient, he put a bunch of screws into boards so he could paint all the exposed sides of the lumber, flip, and leave them to dry. Then we assembled the beds in their room.
The twins love their new beds, and we love how much more space they have to play in their room! We were worried the room would feel too crowded but with the openness of the plan and the space that was opened up underneath, we think it turned out great! Now we can move in a bunch of their toys and reclaim some of our house! Thanks for the great plans!
This entry table I made from wood I got from a recycle center of wood products. It’s been in our entry now for several years. I have only basic tools-no planers and jointers, etc. I do have a fold up table saw that I use once in awhile. I enjoy working with natural /live edge and or construction grade materials. Always impressed with the items Ana has built. Good job Ana😁👍
Twin Farmhouse Storage Bed With Hinged Footboard.
After making a queen-size for myself, I built this twin-sized version for my niece. Along with a "Breakfast at Tiffany's inspired" theme, she got a new bed and a new bedroom for her 15th birthday.
For this version of the bed, I made just one storage cubby because it sits against a wall. With the addition of the hinged footboard, she has a secret vault for storing her Super Secret Teen items (or shoes or snowboards). I followed the traditional farmhouse bed design, omitting one 1x6 in the head/footboard panels. This way, it is not as wide and the storage cubby meets the bedpost on center.
(Again, my daughter modeling the hinging action).
Wed, 06/13/2012 - 02:06
Excellent posting here people will get lot of information with the help of posted information & topics from this blog. nice work keep it going.
www.ahappydeal.com
Tue, 09/11/2012 - 20:43
I'm wanted to make my daughter a bed simple to this... Was wondering, since you took one 1x6 piece out on each end... How many inches is the gap from the wall to bed? I want to have my DD's bed against the wall but, since she is only 3 I don't want a big gap for her to fall into! I hope you understand what I mean. Thanks.
In reply to I'm wanted to make my by kad050209 (not verified)
Tue, 09/11/2012 - 21:53
The gap is actually determined by the widest part of the bed, which is the cap piece on the head and footboards. At most, your gap would be around 3 inches, but you can shove a foam pool noodle from the dollar store in that gap if you are concerned she will get stuck.
And just to be clear, I only removed (1) 1x6 from the headboard and (1) 1x6 from the footboard to match; not two boards from each panel. Wasn't sure if you understood.
Wed, 03/06/2013 - 02:05
i like the theme of "Breakfast at Tiffany's inspired" . http://www.365trustbuy.com
If it was not for this site I would not think we could do this. Inspiration was from the IKEA LACK bookshelf and varioous craft desk tutorials on here. Bookshelf is 7 ft tall, 4 ft wide and shelves are 16 inches deep. Writing desk area is 3 ft long 2 ft wide. It could be done cheaper but it needed to hold all my daughters toys in bins so we paid more for the 16 inch deep boards. It only took a Saturday afternoon to build, but more time in decorating, clear coat of stain. It has a acrylic top writing surface.
Mon, 04/02/2012 - 23:01
Oh I love it! What a huge amount of storage!!!! I love the bright colors and wood grain too! Thank you so much for sharing! Very inspiring!
Fri, 07/11/2014 - 11:35
my brother saw this on line picture and he would like to make it for his little girl. Like to get the plan from you if you have it.
I needed to clear out a shelf in my cabinet and add a spice rack so I could actually see everything. This came out perfect! Made of Oak and stained with classic oak. Very simple to build and hung with pocket screws
James Breadbox
I modified these plans slightly so as the add wrought iron mantel supports. I increased the length of the top and bottom and then added 2 additional internal supports where I made cuts on the front board (just on the inner edge of the mantle support. love how it turned out.
Stacyw3838
Adjusted the plans to have the sliding mirror be a hidden Tie rack. Love the adjustment and being able to hide ties in the room.
A few alterations I made to your original design plans:
1. I went with 1/2” plywood and bead board for the back. This gave it a little more stability and a complimentary design element to match other pieces I’ve built.
2. I used 2x3’s instead of 2x2’s since the selection was much better at the lumber store.
3. For the bench top I used a black walnut slab cut to size finished with a danish oil and satin poly top coat.
4. Instead of the X, I enclosed the sides and used a pair of parallel 2x3’s backed with poplar boards cut to size.
Thanks! I hope you enjoy.
Chad Cote
Tue, 08/25/2020 - 06:04
Nice, where did you find those anchor hooks! I would love to use some thing like that.
This might be my favorite build yet! We made some minor modifications to the plan since we only needed a 2’ x 3’ table. The legs were ordered from Osborne Wood - delivery was super quick and they make the table! The plan was easy to follow. I still can’t get over how much I love the final product!
I wanted a square table that was standard height but not too big for my 9' by 9' breakfast area. I used the plans for the square modern farmhouse table, but mine is a 47 inch square. It seats 6 easily (and the chairs tuck in), but can seat 8 if we need it to. It turned out great!
UPDATE: For everyone that was asking to see additional photos, I have uploaded them all to flickr. Here is the link: HERE Since doing this table I have built probably 15 more just like this one and developed a much better process then in the pictures above. If you have any questions or want to chat about it further shoot me a comment or email at [email protected].
I had originally seen this table on the Pottery Barn website. My wife and I really liked it but couldn't afford to pay the $1200 bucks after tax and shipping. it didn't look to difficult to build so I decided to give it a shot. The wood for the top of the table was almost 3in thick 4.5in wide and 51in long. It was wood from an old pallet that was used to transport a very large air handler. Very heavy dense wood. Since the lengths were only 51 inches I opted to put 2 horizontal pieces on either side to extend the total length to approx 70in. I was inspired by the plans for the benchwright table that I saw on this site but chose to deviate from the plans on here to make it as close to the real thing as possible. I also happen to have access to very thick pieces of hardwood. The only thing I had to buy at lowes were the legs. The legs are 4x4 Douglas fir posts. The top pieces were all glued and screwed together. The ends were also done this way but had a very large lag bolt that held them together to match the pottery barn table. This was originally very rough wood so anything to help get the warp out was used. The legs are set at a 10 degree angle and the table stand 30 in tall. The hardest part of this table was finding the turnbuckle and the threaded rods so it could officially be 99% like the pottery barn table. I also had no idea how hard it was to find left hand threaded anything. I ended up finding everything I need at McMaster.com and my local Fastenal store. To make the brackets that went on either side of the rods i simply bought a piece of 1/8 sheet metal at my local Home depot and cut it to size. They also sold hammered brown paint which gave the metal a worked old look. Once this was all constructed I used two heavy coats of wood conditioner to seal the wood. This was the key to getting the color I wanted. It tells you on the can not to let the wood conditioner dry on the wood but if it does, when you apply the stain you get a 100% consistent color. Worked wonders. It almost felt like I was cheating. I used a water based condition and stained it with rustoleums "dark walnut" stain. Finished it with 5 coats of minwax semi gloss. I only did 5 coats because I was brushing it on and had trouble getting the bubbles out of it. In the final picture it looks much shinier then it is in person. The last picture of when it was still in my garage is a better indication of the final finish. I have a boat load of additional picture, so if you have any questions or want to see more pictures of how it was constructed, shoot me a message. Thanks!
Sat, 05/19/2012 - 22:40
This is incredible. I mean really, really incredible. I cant wait to see what you build next!
Sun, 05/20/2012 - 08:16
I've had trouble with bubbles too... I have two pieces of advice for your next bubble-free project...
1. Get a sprayer. Seriously.
2. If you don't get a sprayer, use the foam pad-brushes for your final layer of poly. Put the last layer on thick and use the largest side of the brush (the side) and lay it down over the wood and drag it slowly accross with the whole large surface on the wood. If it is soaked in poly it will lay it down smooth with little if any bubbles, keep the surface you're working on flat, and after you've finished that, just make sure you clean up any edges where the poly may have dripped down. Last step, when it's almost dry, use 600 grit sandpaper to VERY lightly smooth out any little bumbs, which will come off more like paste than dust. But really, you should just get a sprayer. :)
In reply to Bubbles... by Bunnie1978
Sun, 05/20/2012 - 17:42
Hey Bunnie,
Thanks for the tips! I completely agree with you about the sprayer. I do actually have a sprayer but didn't want to get the garage covered in over spray. Maybe one of these days I will get ambitious and apply another coat. :)
Sun, 05/20/2012 - 09:35
This is awesome! Can you give more direction as to which specific items you got at mcmaster.com and Fastenal?
Also, how did you attach the sheet metal pieces? If you have any more pictures of the underside (frame) of the table, I'd love to see them!
Thank you very much, and again, this is spectacular. We want to try to build this, too.
Great job!
In reply to This is awesome! Can you give by SawgrassHomeGirl
Mon, 05/21/2012 - 09:23
See my comments below...
Sun, 05/20/2012 - 10:38
Love it! This project turned out great and I love how you tracked down the hardware - that finishes it off perfectly!
Like SawgrassHomeGirl, I'm wondering what the actual names of the items are that you tracked down. I went and paged through the McMaster and Fastenal sites, but since I'm completely unfamiliar with mechanical doodads I'm not even sure which categories to look under.
Fantastic job! Thanks for posting this!
Sun, 05/20/2012 - 18:13
Thank you for the nice comments. This was my first official project so I am happy that it turned out well!
Sure! I'd be happy to know the names of the hardware items. At Mcmaster.com the turnbuckle I purchased was Item number 30045T44 . It is about 6in long and seemed to fit nicely with the length of the table. the rods were just simply threaded rods which I purchased at fastenal since we have a few of their stores in town. The rods come in 6 ft pieces so I didn't want to have to pay the shipping. If you don't have a Fastenal near by here are the item numbers for the rods; 90322A220 -right hand threaded rod and 95625A160 - left hand threads. They are a bit more expensive at mcmaster though.
The biggest thing I was worried about was that the entire rod had threads on it so I was worried that it would look odd. But after getting it painted you don't even notice that it isn't just a solid pipe.
Sawgrass: shoot me your email address and I'll send you some more pictures. This site only allows me to post 5 additional photos. But to elaborate on the frame and the metal pieces, I didn't' really build a frame for it. You can essentially break it down into two pieces: Top and the legs. Instead of building a frame and screwing the pieces down on it, I opted to screw each of the pieces together using a Kreg tool and also glue them. the wood was heavy enough to support everything without an elaborate internal structure. The two end pieces help keep things from warping. The only reinforcement I did for the top was to take 3 2x4's and screw them horizontally on the underside. You will be able to see all of this in the pictures. As for the metal pieces, i drilled 5 holes in each piece. 4 holes for the screws that hold it to the leg region and one half inch hole in the middle for the rod to go through. I have a bunch of close ups of this process so you should be able to get a very good idea of how things work. Overall I tried to keep everything as simple as possible.
Thanks for all the interest and if anyone has anymore questions please don't hesitate to ask!
Tue, 05/22/2012 - 09:01
Thank you so much for taking the time to answer our questions! You did a fantastic job on this table and I am adding it to my ever-growing list of projects to do!
Now I'm off to find that hardware. :-)
Thanks, again!
Fri, 11/08/2013 - 06:33
My e-mail is [email protected]
My husband is making this table for Thanksgiving dinner. We are expecting 14 people so he is making the table a total of 12 feet long! Any input or pictures will be greatly appreciated!
Lisa and Gary Peters
Angola, IN
In reply to More information please! by lillylamp
Fri, 11/08/2013 - 08:13
Hey Lisa,
Check your email. 12ft long! I think you'll have to edit the build a little from my design but if you have any questions about the pictures please let me know and i'll be happy to help you out!
Thanks!
Tue, 05/22/2012 - 16:58
So i wanna build this table this summer, could you shoot me some more pictures of the designs and actual steps for building it. i absolutely love it, and i hope mine comes out as good as yours!
In reply to Love this table by Destiny (not verified)
Thu, 05/24/2012 - 10:59
Sure will, what is your email address?
Thu, 02/28/2013 - 18:35
Hey Nathan can you send more the steps also of how you build the table and any difference between the Ana White steps.
In reply to Pottery Barn Table by Jay Daniel
Wed, 04/10/2013 - 13:54
Hey Jay,
I didn't really follow the plans listed, I just kind of built things as I went. So i don't have anything that I can send you. However, I'd be happy to answer any questions you might have about any part of it.
Thanks Jay
Thu, 02/28/2013 - 18:35
Hey Nathan can you send me the steps also of how you built the table and any difference between the Ana White steps.
Sat, 05/26/2012 - 13:13
This has been on my to do list for a while now, but I haven't been able to work out the hardware details like you did. I would love to get some more pictures especially of the underside and of your rod to stretcher connection. Thanks again and you did an amazing job!
In reply to Awesome table! by Robert (not verified)
Mon, 11/04/2013 - 13:30
Hey Robert,
Here is a link to the rest of the pictures:
Sat, 05/26/2012 - 17:54
I love this table! I am new to this site and to building, but I want this to be my first project. Could you possibly email me the detailed pics and plans also so I can get started? :) Thanks so much!
Sat, 05/26/2012 - 18:07
Sorry, I forgot to sign in before I submitted my post. I posted the above post as Aubrey but this is my username so you can contact me.
Thanks Again.
In reply to Love the table!! by Aubrey (not verified)
Mon, 11/04/2013 - 13:30
Thanks! If you have any question please ask away!
Tue, 05/29/2012 - 18:41
I am really inspired by the table you built. It looks like you built your legs with 4x4s. Did you drill through them to get the notch on the outside or did you do something else just to get the look? Great work!
In reply to Amazing Table by ajmccallister
Tue, 05/29/2012 - 20:58
Hi Aj,
Yes, I did use 4x4's for the legs. It was much easier this way, did a great job achieving the heavy look I was interested in and was the closest I could come to the pottery barn table. To answer you question, no I did not drill through. I attached the 2x4 cross member with 2 leg screws from the outside of the 4x4 leg. I then cut a small piece of the 2x4 and nailed it over the lag screw holes to simulate the 2x4 cross member coming through. It looks just like I cut a hole and the whole thing is coming through. I get asked how I did it by people that see it in person because it doesn't look like a separate piece is just nailed on.
If you look at IMAG0306 and IMAG0308 on flickr you can see what it looks like without them on and if you look at the bottom left hand corner of the picture you can see the pieces that have been cut and not put on yet.
In reply to Cost? by Sara (not verified)
Mon, 06/11/2012 - 11:01
The Lower portion was probably about $200. The biggest expense was the threaded rods and the turnbuckle. The rods were about $30 each and the turnbuckle after shippping was about $20. The wood for the lefts and cross members were purchased at my local lowes so they were pretty cheap. As for the top, its hard to say since wood prices vary quite a bit between types and thickness. If you were to buy wood like I used you would probably have to visit a sawmill and see if you could get rough cut wood that is at least 2.5 inches thick. I would estimate $300 give or take. If you follow the plans that ana has setup for the top you don't necessarily need to get wood that is that thick. You can achieve close to the same look but just using 3/4 in pieces. I think if you look very closely at the pottery barn pictures, they do not use 100% solid wood either. But I wanted the heavy look and the solid appearance. So total you are probably looking at $500-$600. Hope this helps!
Wed, 06/20/2012 - 11:28
Great job Nathan - I appreciate your workmanship on the table. You've answered one of my questions regarding the look of the cross member protuding thru the leg - slick idea. My other question - why all the large round holes in the bottom of the table? By the way, the dowel effect that you accomplished really pops. I too like the looks of the thicker boards. Thanks for posting an interesting and comprehensive article. Curt
In reply to Benchright Farmhouse Table by Curt (not verified)
Thu, 06/21/2012 - 13:06
Those holes in the bottom of the table were there when the wood was salvaged. This was a pallet so they had it bolted together with large lag bolts. The bolts had large washers inset into the wood. The bolts were secured on the underside of the wood and went through every piece. Luckily, they were consistent and only bolted from one side.
Thanks!
Tue, 07/10/2012 - 06:36
Thank you, Nathan, that really helps! Did I mention your table is beautiful?
Fri, 08/03/2012 - 12:53
Hi Nathan,
Awesome table. I just hope I can find some 3" thick lumber without breaking the bank! It looks like you attached the legs by putting 2 bolts through the legs into the small apron on the short ends of the table. It also looks like you might have also put in some pocket holes on the inside of the legs, going straight down into the underneath of the table boards. Is that right? I am just wondering how sturdy it is, since it's such a heavy table.
Thanks!
Lea
In reply to Attaching Legs by leabea28
Mon, 08/06/2012 - 11:43
Yes, you are correct. I attached the legs with 2, 6inch lag bolts. I pre-drilled them at the correct angle (which I eye balled) and ratcheted them in. I was a little worried about them being sturdy enough so I went ahead and made a few pocket holes and secured it that was also. The legs overall are very sturdy. The table probably weights 150-200lbs and I was able to pick up one side of it only holding onto one leg. Table doesn't wobble at all. The cross member holding the legs together also helped pull everything together.
Thanks for the question! Feel free to ask any others!
Nathan
Sun, 08/12/2012 - 18:17
Fantastic table! Thanks for posting all the instructions and places to buy hardware. My husband and I can't wait to try this!
Sun, 08/12/2012 - 18:19
Fantastic table! Thanks for posting all the instructions and places to buy hardware. My husband and I can't wait to try this!
Fri, 08/24/2012 - 09:33
Nice work! I made bench seats in this style - maybe I'll post pics sometime too! I saw in your description that you used thick wood to be more like the original... just wanted to let you know that I have seen the "original" and yours is much better! Pottery barn does NOT use solid 3" wood for the top. If you look closely at the pics in their online catalog you can even tell... they use thin planks with a side piece to make them look thick. The only hefty piece is on the very end .
Also, I wanted to mention that I have had great luck with wipe-on polyurethane... never any bubbles. Just be sure to use lint free cloths and lots of thin layers.
Again, nice work!
In reply to Better than the "real" PB Benchwright by 3RaysofSunshine
Fri, 08/24/2012 - 09:54
Thanks for the nice comments!
Did you apply the poly with a brush or with a cloth?
Fri, 08/24/2012 - 10:05
I apply with a cloth. It takes many coats but they are so thin they dry fast. In between coats, I wet sand with 1000 grit wet/dry sandpaper. After towel drying, I run my hand across the surface. You'll feel any spots you missed. Then use a tack cloth to pick up any dust (there's always some...) I get a perfect finish using this method. I'm sure spraying is great too... I just like not having another piece of equipment to clean!
My last project (a patio table) I had run out of the wipe-on poly and decided to use something else - whatever I had on hand. Grr! Not nearly as nice looking so I'm doing it over. I'll post pictures of a few projects as soon as I can figure out how.
Sun, 11/18/2012 - 21:15
Why cant my husband make stuff......booooooooo! Wonderful table I am so jealous lol.
Fri, 01/04/2013 - 07:37
This is a great Table! I'd love to build something like this. Good Job!
In reply to Amazed by Shannan with an A
Tue, 04/23/2013 - 10:23
Thanks for the comment! Glad you like it :)
Thu, 05/02/2013 - 10:52
Hi! Just wondering what tool(s) you used to cut the sheet metal and drill the holes in it.
Thanks.
Lea
In reply to sheet metal cutting by leabea28
Thu, 05/02/2013 - 15:04
Hey Lea,
It was only 1/8 in thick metal so a simple jig saw with a metal bit worked great. Wear eye protection though. It shoots off all sorts of hot metal bits. To drill the holes I just used a power drill with a metal bit. Make sure you drill 100% straight or the bit will bind and jerk the drill right out of your hand. Ideally, a drillpress would work much better since I nearly broke my wrist on the second large hole.
Let me know if you have any other questions!
Thanks,
Sat, 06/01/2013 - 20:36
The table looks awesome man! Love it. I just got done building the benchright table to Ana Whites plan, see mine here http://ana-white.com/2013/05/farmhouse-benchright-table-build-0
I just ordered the left hand threaded rod, right hand threaded rod and turnbuckle from McMaster.com...total cost for all 3 was 22 bucks. Here are the McMaster part numbers:
90036A033- left hand rod
98841A033- right hand rod
30045T44- galvanized turnbuckle
I'll hopefully get the rods and turnbuckle this week so I can totally complete this project.
Again, awesome job nathan!!!
In reply to Very nice job, nathan!! by tcoche
Fri, 11/14/2014 - 05:06
I saw your listing for the parts number, thank you. I was wondering, these are galvanized parts....how are they being made dark for the finished product?
Fri, 06/28/2013 - 10:52
Please, PLEASE send me the plans on how to build this table. Yours turned out great!
Thu, 07/11/2013 - 12:55
I'd love to if I had plans. I kind of just built this as I went. Feel free to ask any questions though if you aren't sure where to start or your stuck somewhere.
Thanks!
My wife wanted storage for dress up clothes and I wanted to make better use of the space it would take so I made it double as a puppet theater.
I needed additional seating for my dining room table and wanted something a little unusual. When I saw the vintage pew bench, I loved it. After looking at the plans, I determined I could alter the arm height so we could use it at our dining table. Now that we have moved, we no longer need it at our dining table, so it now sits in our entry. It has been a great multifunctional piece.
Mon, 03/24/2014 - 13:25
Thanks Ana! It is a painting. I bought it in South Korea while we were living there.
I may be able to track a canvas down for you, though. You would have to get it stretched...it would be too large to ship. I have a friend who is living there now. ;-)
Tue, 03/25/2014 - 10:15
Thanks for the reply, what a great find. I just had to comment on how striking it is!
Sun, 09/20/2015 - 16:44
What's the new arm height? I'm going to TRY to adapt this to a 60" bench with two drawers, and the lower arms.
The plans were easy to follow.
Hi Ana,
I just want to thank you for sharing your projects. My father is 92 years and was always a "maker." For the last three years he is living with and being cared for by my sister, but while he no longer has use of his basement workshop, he still gets up early each morning and goes to his small work area in her craft room where he does small projects like bird feeders. He had made and given away so many bird feeders that we were searching for another small project he could take on. I came across your Christmas Tree shelf. My husband cuts the pieces to size and then my dad completes the projects. He has made enough to give his six children and 10 grandchildren each one as a keepsake. Pictured is the way one of the grandchildren has recently used the shelf he was given. So thank you for being so generous with your ideas and plans!
Mary Beth Sharp
I wanted a place for a flag pole, but I didn't want to put one in the ground or screw into my siding, so I modified the cedar planter to hold a flag pole. It was a fun project! Check out more here!
I found this project on I different site (sorry) but really wanted to make it for our quest bathroom. It was not to difficult and it really helps to finish off our quest bathroom since it was missing a medicine cabinet.
Tue, 07/03/2012 - 09:40
I know that Ry would love it if you would post a brag post on her site, too!
This was my first attempt at making furniture...but it turned out GREAT! My fiance was about to buy a VERY similar dining room set for $1300 before I stopped her and insisted that I could build it myself, finish it to match our kitchen/dining room, and save a TON of money!
Farmhouse table and bench
This was my first time building a piece of furniture on my own, so it was a lot of learning and trial and error on my part. The plans were fantastic for the most part (I thought the bench plans could have used a little more specification and couldn't seem to find a pocket hole version). We completed the project over the course of a couple months, simply because we revisited it when time allowed. It could easily be done in a much shorter period. One thing I will say is this -- add a step to the plans and utilize a planer and jointer on all of the boards. I had the table put together at one point and whew, I wasn't sure what I did wrong, and I went back and had followed all the steps. While this might sound obvious now, remember it was my first time doing something like this, so I followed each step to a T. I also used a belt sander on the table and bench tops to level things out even more, and went across the grain to make a smooth surface with an 80 grit belt, then hand sanded with a sanding block with 120, 220, and 320 grit. I also modified the bench plans to cut about 5 inches off so that they would fit under the table.
We used Minwax pre-stain conditioner, then one 10 minute application of Mixwax Honey stain, followed by Mixwax Satin Poly. It turned out great and we are already moving on to other projects!
Comments
abrown8770
Mon, 11/08/2021 - 07:36
Channing bookcase
Channing bookcase