We made this sewing/craft table by combining plans from the modular office. It was a big job but SO worth it! We love your plans and use them all the time!
Submitted by Candace Ann Williams
We wanted to put up a whiteboard to use for homeschooling and were amazed at the cost of even a small one. We got some shower board from Lowes that measures 8 feet by 4 feet, put 1x2" boards over the top and side edges and screwed through them into the wall studs, and added a Ten Dollar Ledge shelf we'd already been using for the kids' books. Super easy and it looks great!
Picture of my own version of the Ana White Design linked here
http://www.ana-white.com/2017/01/DIY_furniture/farmhouse-style-toy-box-…
Added Gas Shocks from Amazon 100N/18lbs.
Our large lap dog finally discovered he could easily get whatever he wanted out of the trash, so I built the tilt out bin to help keep him out of trouble. lol. I made it cabinet height so we could move the microwave off the counter, and added a drawer to the extra space to keep garbage bags and such in.
Shortened by 4". Changed all 1" to 2" and used 2x4 instead of 2x2! Used 2x6 for the seat. Used pocket holes and screws. Love them!
Rather than burning a few thousand on vanities for my bathroom remodel I decided to build them instead. The bottom shelf on the right slides out for a footstool so the kids can reach the sink.
Sun, 01/05/2014 - 20:55
These are so beautiful -- they really look like high-end rustic pieces. The slide-out footstool is genius. The distressing is fantastic. I really love your pebble art as well.
Would you mind sharing the stain color?
Wed, 02/03/2016 - 17:48
I drew this up in sketchup as I was planning to build one like this, but decided to do something different. Is there a way to upload a sketchup file?
Perfect for porch sitting!
I added support for more weight by adding a 2x4 on the inside of the four legs. This way, I have the entire frame supported by screws AND 2x4, so I can rest easy.
Rebecca Nemeth
It had come time to renovate our powder room bathroom. We were on a tight budget so we decided to build our own vanity & add a little twist to it! We splurged on the granite countertop, vessel sink and faucet. Thanks to Ana White we built our vanity for less than $10! The plans were easy to follow . . . .we are so proud of our wood vanity! link to our blog: http://www.houseofrumours.com/shiplap-powder-room-diy-vanity/
This was the second building project I've ever completed. I had to make a few adjustments to make it fit the size of ray's closet, but it was totally worth it. most of the work was in the measuring, sanding, and sealing of the wood. Ftting the frames can be a little tricky if your planks aren't perfectly straight. Otherwise, this project was pretty straight forward and can be done in just a few days depending on how much time you have to dedicate to it. Thanks Ana!
Hi Ana!
My husband used your plans to build the 2x4 outdoor cedar sectional :) He did it in 1 day and it couldn't have been easier! He even tried first time working with pallets to make a small table and it came out perfectly too! Can't wait to enjoy family time on our new back porch.
Thanks Again & Love From Austin ❤️
Kathleen
Thu, 10/24/2019 - 16:35
Hi, your furniture is beautiful. May I ask: Where did you find your cushions? And what color/ brand stain did you use? Lovely job.
I built this for my daughter after Christmas sinse she had the living room covered in toys. The dimensions are 37" x 18" x 20"
Tue, 01/09/2018 - 05:51
HI Anna,
Can you provide more pictures or instructions on how you assembled this toy box? i want to make one just like it!
Thanks!
Wed, 03/10/2021 - 16:31
Looking at the wall panels they look like the long edge of each panel has a small bevel cut on it. This gives each panel edge a more pronounced or well-defined edge? Is this true? Was it done with a router?
So a few notes... We added a base of 2x4 pressure treated wood footing around the entirety of the greenhouse which should help keep it from rotting? Blocks are an alternative here. Our lumber store didn't carry the right size of tin sheets so we added a 2x10 at the bottom which seems to work and still look okay. We picked up a 30" metal screen door there which should assist in keeping out the critters and allows us to lock out our small kiddos who might wreck the plants :) This is a great plan!!! Thank you so much! Oh - materials ran about $700 including screen door? We went through about 4 1-pound boxes of sheet metal screws and at least a large box of 3" screws?? and 2 small boxes 1.25"?? If you cut you pieces right you may end up with an extra 8' clear sheet of corrugated plastic? We spent about 20 hours building just the greenhouse but we had hauled a lot of stuff to the site by hand... We are new to carpentry and pulled this off so anyone can do this!! Dremel tool works for cutting plastic, but not as good as the tin!! Good luck and cheers!
Been wanting to build this for awhile. Now I know why the plan pics are all unfinished! I modified the plans slightly to allow for 2 slightly larger trays on the bottom and allow for robotic vacuum to clean underneath.
I really liked the PB mega desk, but I didn't want to spend $1600 on it. After seeing someone's post here (a couple years ago...) asking for plans on that desk, I decided to do it myself. I took these two plans and made 4 base units. They are 18" square at the top and 34" tall. I used 2 IKEA table tops connected underneath for the top, to make a total height of 36" - counter stool height. I constructed them a little differently than the plans, but no matter how you make them, the idea is the same. The plan is to take them apart and make 2 desks once everyone is too old and cool to do homework/artwork together.
Mon, 03/16/2015 - 20:39
this is really awesome! What a cool work area :)
Sun, 08/02/2015 - 11:39
Where did you get the chairs to complete your project? And how much were they?
Sat, 08/15/2015 - 04:33
Just seeing your comment...sorry for the delay! I got the stools and the light fixture at a Ballard Backroom (outlet) store near me. 3 of the stools ended up being about $40 each with the sale they had at the time, and the 4th was $60? - bought at a later time than the first 3.
Sun, 08/30/2015 - 13:54
Could we get more detail on how this was built? The base units, for instance.
Thanks!
Wed, 11/04/2015 - 07:40
How did you connect the table tops from the bottom so that the tables were secure together? I'm curious what's the best way to do this. Since two of the four seats will be where the seam is, I want to make sure I secure it properly so it's not wobbly. Thanks so much.
Sat, 01/09/2016 - 05:06
I'm just seeing these latest comments for the first time, so you may have long finished this project already! The tops were surprisingly sturdy but I did reinforce them. I placed the tops on the floor upside down and screwed some metal brackets (about 12" long each) across the joint in four places. I just screwed them in through holes already in the brackets. This wasn't the most stable because those tops are particle board and don't hold screws very well... But since it was already pretty sturdy, I figured it would do. It has been fine, even with standing on the top (kids who get up there and me hanging the light fixture above).
Once the tops were joined, I placed the bases so there was about a 1" overhang on the top. To hold the top in place, I used small pieces of wood screwed to the underside of the top at the inside corner to act as a placement stop. The top is pretty big and heavy even though they are IKEA tops, so they don't have a tendency to move or slide at all anyway. I'm going to try to figure out how to post another picture of the braces and corner stops...we'll see if I can do it! Let me know if you have any more questions...again, sorry I didn't see this in a more timely manner!
Sat, 01/02/2016 - 05:55
Is the photo above the Pottery Barn version or your product result? I'm trying to figure out the dimensions for the drawer and shelf configurations. Thanks! BTW, I'm totally addicted to your style and personality...my husband loves the productivity inspiration I've received. :-)
Sat, 01/09/2016 - 10:17
Hi!
I'm glad you like the desk! The one in the picture is the one I built, not the pottery barn one! My dimensions were a good bit different than the PB desk - square bases instead of rectangular and counter stool height instead of desk/table height. So, I have no idea if I have my plans for this anymore, so I went and measured it again for you!
So each base is 18" x 18" square and 34" high so that with the 2" top the total height is 36".
Each base was made of oak plywood that made with 3 sides, a top and a bottom. All edges were rabbit joints (3/8" deep in thickness of boards and probably 3/8" wide - not 100% on width of rabbits). It's kind of a pain to do rabbit joints if you don't have a dado blade for your table saw, so you could use pocket hole screws instead. I glued and nailed these joints with a finish nailer, I believe.
I figured a diagram with measurements would be easier than trying to write descriptions...so I'm adding another pic with the dimensions outlined. Drawing is NOT to scale, so sorry about that! I really need to learn to use SketchUp. Let me know if you have any questions!
Sat, 01/09/2016 - 07:57
Hi!
I'm glad you like the desk! The one in the picture is the one I built, not the pottery barn one! My dimensions were a good bit different than the PB desk - square bases instead of rectangular and counter stool height instead of desk/table height. So, I have no idea if I have my plans for this anymore, so I went and measured it again for you!
So each base is 18" x 18" square and 34" high so that with the 2" top the total height is 36".
Each base was made of oak plywood that made with 3 sides, a top and a bottom. All edges were rabbit joints (3/8" deep in thickness of boards and probably 3/8" wide - not 100% on width of rabbits). It's kind of a pain to do rabbit joints if you don't have a dado blade for your table saw, so you could use pocket hole screws instead. I glued and nailed these joints with a finish nailer, I believe.
I figured a diagram with measurements would be easier than trying to write descriptions...so I'm adding another pic with the dimensions outlined. Drawing is NOT to scale, so sorry about that! I really need to learn to use SketchUp. Let me know if you have any questions!
Wed, 06/22/2016 - 15:26
Can you buy the bases from ikea? or did you build them from scratch?
Thu, 07/28/2016 - 14:13
No you can't buy them from Ikea. I bought the table tops from Ikea, but I built the bases. The dimensions for the bases are in one of the additional pictures with the post if you want to see them!
Mon, 10/10/2016 - 07:41
What are the total dimensions of the table top? Thinking of building something like this, but want to make sure it will fit in my space.
I needed a garden shed (for potting supplies) and a dog house, but I wanted it to look good. I started with Ana's plans, but screwed up a cut and was too lazy to go to the store, so I modified the plan a bit - also we didn't want a lot of venting off the roof.
OUR MODIFICATIONS:
NO BACK WALL - I did not build a back wall, as we pushed it all the way up to the house. (You need to check your codes for this if it's allowed. The way I'm integrating mine w/o breaking the exterior waterproofing of the house and it's unconditioned made mine OK)
DOG HOUSE- I cut away a hole for our dog between the battens. And as you can see - he loves it. He's got his Coolaroo dog bed inside. We also added a 'ceiling' to the lower dog house half, that divides the gardening storage from dog house. The large shelf inside that acts as a dog house ceiling, and above are my un-used pots, hand tools etc. (no worries no chemicals with the puppy)
PAINTED EXTERIOR- I painted it red to match the house, and will also be putting garden pavers in front of the doors.
ROOF- We did put an underlayment down on the roof before the asphalt shingles.
LESSON LEARNED- If your dog is a Mama's boy like mine, he may try to climb a ladder to remove you from a roof which he has determined is not OK for you to be up there.
*One concern is - most sidewalks slope away from the house, so we had to shim the sill plate so front of the shed doesn't lean outward causing the doors to pull open constantly. As you can see from the photo I still need to flash at the roof where we cut back our houses' battens.
COST- We live in CA - and this project was more expensive than anticipated, our lumber/roof shingle costs were around $270 alone, and keep in mind we didn't build a back panel. I have very little scrap left over too. When I was nearly done the hinges were an additional $15 a piece, $10 for the latch. And we had the primer and paint in the garage. Underlayment for roof, I already had in the garage too.
TIM-: I started this project on a weekend, but it ended up taking longer; probably because I didn't block out the weekend just for this project. I spread it over the course of a month, so hours wise it probably wasn't as bad as it felt... You do need two people though, and that's where I ran into some trouble, I kept trying to work on it when my husband wasn't home. Probably 24hrs, 3 easy going days. Could probably be done in a weekend if you were dedicated and didn't get distracted (or screw up a cut like I did, which sent me to the drawing board to fix my mistake)
We built this A-frame chicken coop using the plans from Ana White. We modified them a bit to include a front door, a solid front wall, and 8-foot untreated cedar fence boards (cut in half) for the loft floor instead of plywood. We also used hardware cloth instead of chicken wire since racoons are a problem where we live, and they have been known to reach through chicken wire to grab at hens. Instead of being able to open both sides of the top of the coop, we only put doors on one side just to make the building process a little simpler. The hardest part of building the whole coop was cutting the 60* angles on the 2"x4" trusses. Our cuts are not exactly perfect, so the nodes (meeting points of the 60* angle cuts) are a little rough, but we plan on covering this with a roof cap eventually. More photos and details are on my blog: http://littlefarmbigcity.wordpress.com/2013/06/29/red-white-and-blue-co… -kate
I just made this shelf using 2x4s 8 ft long wood. It is very strong and looks great. My garage size required the shelf to be max 16 in deep, so I used a 1 plywood sheet divided by 3 equal parts for the upper 3 shelfs. Since I made a 4th shelf, I used 3 1x2s for the 4th bottom shelf instead of a new plywood sheet and avoided having extra 2/3 of the sheet around and also saved like 30$ since the 2x1s were only 2$ea. That touch makes it look a bit stylish too so a win win. If you do that, here's a tip: use the outer 2x4s as rails - make sure that the cleats on the lower shelf are placed a bit lower ~ 1in. In such way, you can place the three 1x2 rails at the same level as the outer 2x4s and this you end up having 5 rails total in the shelf. Do use the wooden screws with star head if you can, they were muuuuuch easier to use compared with the regular ones. Note, this shelf is very strong, probably too strong for my needs. For a 8ft long, and my storage needs (camping, Christmas stuff, other lighter things), I'd probably use 2x2s instead of 2x4s. That would save costs, specially since wood isn't cheap these days( I spent ~$150 in materials Jan 2022).
This was my first project from Ana's website and I'm hooked! I'm a beginner, but thank goodness for my Dad's help because I have a lot of learning to do!
I wanted the drawer to be 1 drawer instead of 3. I feel like it looks cleaner (without having to adjust 3 drawers constantly to make it look good when you push them in). I was thinking the bed could actually be used as a trundle bed in the future too! I use this to store toys right now and it is Awesome!
I increased the bed size to fit a twin mattress and increased the height of the bed slightly so that the drawer would be a little bit deeper. We also added a back to the bed and carried around the trim to make all sides look the same. We added a bumper to the back and sides of the inside of the bed so the drawer is easy to push in and fits in snug. Finally we reinforced the bottom of the drawer with more 1x4 boards so that if a child does sleep in it, it would be more sturdy. I now have kids come over and jump into the drawer (literally) and I'm glad we reinforced it.
The changes we made did add to the cost and our time (as well as being newbies), but I think it's worth it and the bed turned out beautiful!
Sat, 01/15/2022 - 08:02
Any chance you have your cut list for this? Will the trundle storage drawer fit a twin mattress in it? Also, you say you increased the bed size to a twin, was the original not a twin too?
This project took a week to build. Working during my boys' nap time and late nights, I was able to complete everything in about 7 days. I used cedar, and sealed with Cabots Bleaching Oil. The cost of wood for the beds and stairs and drawers came to about $700. The extra cost came from the additional side rails on the top bunk and the stairs and drawers. Still comes in about $500 less than if bought commercially. The famiy loves the bed and as my kids are 2 and 3, I expect to get many years out of the bunk bed. Side note: I had to add quite a few brackets and angle joists to secure and minimize wobble due to the additional weight of the top bunk. (2 2x4s from the 4x4 to the side of the cleat and side rail of the bottom bunk, on the back side only, made a world of difference)
My Niece is 13 and into homemade hair bows, ribbons and jewelry. When I asked her mom what I could make for Colleen for her birthday? We settled upon three of Anna's $10 buck shelves and as a surprise a Jewelry cabinet with Elastic ribbons across front for her bows to be place on.
It was a big hit!
Thank you for your inspiration!
Best Regards,
Work Safely
Bob C.
Comments
melkaye
Wed, 02/19/2020 - 13:49
Nice job
Could you tell me how much extra did you add on to the one side? And how did you fit your sewing machine in there?
blc0232
Mon, 07/20/2020 - 07:48
I love this.
I love this.