DIY Outdoor Wood Chairs
Thanks Ana! Appreciate all the plans and how much I’m learning.
Thanks Ana! Appreciate all the plans and how much I’m learning.
This was our first build, so it was definitely a learning process! We followed the plans pretty closely, with a few minor modifications to suit our needs. The finish was inspired by CreativePineapple's stain/white paint combo - we loved it so much that we had to do our own version!
The center console section was built out of 3/4" MDF - we knew we were going to paint, as opposed to stain, and it was quite a bit cheaper. We primed and painted this section as we went, as we knew that getting our hands/brushes into the cubbies after assembly would be difficult. This added to the time to finish, but it did make for an easier (and probably more even) paint job.
The side panels and back (not shown - we still need to do cutouts for cords before we attach) are 1/4" plywood. The legs are untreated SPF 4x4s, and were definitely where we ran into the most problems. Finidng untreated 4x4's was difficult enough, and when we finally found one that didn't have a ton of chunks and dings in it, we had problems with wood cracking when we got it home. We waited until the wood had acclimatized to our home and stopped cracking, wood-filled the cracks where we could and tried to position the legs so the cracks were facing the console, and hidden. Luckily, this approach was successful, and you can't tell that cracking was an issue. In retrospect, I probably should have just gone with cedar, particularly since we weren't staining it and it wouldn't have mattered that it was different from our other pine boards.
The only placed where we really differed from the plans was adding additional trim to the front section, as opposed to edge binding. The trim was simple 1x2s, similar to the bottom trim.
We primed and painted the entire white bottom section before attaching the top, which was made of stud-grade spruce 2x4's. We used a wood conditioner on the spruce before staining, as it is such a soft wood. The stain was left on for 15-20 minutes before wiping, as we knew we wanted a darker, richer colour. Two coats were required to get the shade we wanted (3 on one board which wasn't soaking up the stain as well). We then finished with 3 coats of Varathane Diamond Wood Finish, to get an especially glossy finish.
Wed, 03/14/2012 - 19:29
You better not stop with this project - absolutely beautiful!! The finish looks amazing...I am wondering if you used a rag or a sponge brush to stain the top? I am very new to staining furniture, so any tips would be appreciated. :)
Sat, 03/17/2012 - 09:22
Thanks! We used a foam brush, as we had a bunch hanging around, and just wiped ta the end with a rag. We also left our wood conditioner overnight, contrary to the package directions, which we heard allows it to sink in and dry more evenly. Other than that...we'd never stained before in our lives, so don't be afraid to just give it a go!
Fri, 03/16/2012 - 16:01
i can't seem to find the detailed plans for the console. do you happen to have them? thanks!
Sat, 03/17/2012 - 09:23
There's a link in the post above (after "From Plan")
Mon, 03/19/2012 - 07:36
maybe safari doesn't like the link for this one. no detailed plans will open
We were blessed with a LARGE TV for Christmas. Totally unexpected. So I needed to build a table for it to sit on. I previously made a narrow farmhouse table and liked the look of it. So I decided to make a smaller version with two shelves underneath. To reduce clutter, I built a couple of "towers" for the x-box, dvd, and wii to sit on (2 half boxes with 1x4 sides with 1x4's nailed across the top.) Dimensions of table are 48 inches long x 22 inches wide x 32 inches tall. (TV is a 60 inch and I think it fits great!) I used pocket holes and 1.25 inch pocket hole screws to attach everything-except I nailed the shelves down to the supports using 1 1/4 inch finishing nails and used 1.25 wood screws to attach legs to apron and supports to legs. I ripped the 1x4's down to 3 inches on the leg front and 2.75 on the sides to make them uniform. Also the aprons I ripped down to 3 inches wide. The shelf supports are about 1.5 inches wide and the shelves themselves are about 18.5 inches wide.
I forgot to add the height of the shelf when I measured for the placement of the two by two shelf supports, but it still turned out well.
I designed and built this kitchen island for my daughter and her husband along with the cabinets. the island top is made of walnut.
Outdoor couch is a delight.
Damian
My wood scraps were definitely getting out of control, and I needed something to store the wood vertically. I had some spare wood (free from Craigslist), so I put together a wood storage bin. All in all, the project cost me the price of some Kreg screws.
Mon, 03/19/2012 - 20:13
Love it! I'm building some crates from pallet wood to store my scraps in. Your box turned out very nice.
Wed, 06/06/2012 - 13:21
I have been struggling to organize my space because my lumber is on one of my work spaces. I have the perfect space for that, thanks for the great post!
In an effort to cure our current lack of organization downstairs I decided to build a wall coat rack in hopes that it will help keep our coats, diaper bags, uniforms, purses, baby carriers, bags, and who knows what else off the counter, couch and floor.
Going into this project the only thing I knew I wanted to use in some way was some ripped 2x4's we used as floor spacers during our floor installation. Really happy with the end result :-)
For more pictures and a brief tutorial check out the blog post :http://thehuth.blogspot.com/2014/01/diy-herringbone-wall-coat-rack-usin…
This project could take alot less time if I had a wood planer. I use a belt sander to sand all pallet wood and this is what takes the longest. Well applying the polyurethane takes a while to finally get it to the way I like it. Bc I'm my worst critic.
Wed, 03/30/2016 - 00:19
This is probably the coolest brag I've seen on here! Do you think this is something a beginner could pull off with a coping saw? I'm assuming you cut the state out, stain the rest of the board, and then glue/screw it all back together? Seriously this is amazing, kudos to you!
In reply to Seriously too awesome by Malka
Wed, 09/07/2016 - 00:43
Actuall all i did was put duck takp to try to keep stain from leaking under. When i got close to stain I just patted it slowly and that was final result. But thanks for comment.
Thank you very much for the Christmas tree plans, was a nice and fun project, I added a star, can be removed if people wants to use the tree year long.
Thank you again
Sergio
6 seater Recycled Fijian Kauri with extra leg supports, one side higher & closer for kids.
Marty
I built the same bed as for my son for the master bedroom. A queen size bed with storage with paneled footboard and headboard. I love that style and I made board and batten too.
I am very happy and the bed is very sturdy. I didnt make drawers because it's too difficult for me. I am not ready to build drawers! Maybe next time!
Fri, 05/04/2012 - 08:12
I share your fear of drawers! It still looks great with cubbies :)
Sun, 11/25/2012 - 21:27
I love this bed but I am wondering since there is no edge if you have any issue with your mattress sliding side to side?
I needed to raise the height to help my wife who has back problems. The plans were simply and easy to follow, I added some length to fit our space and some molding in te front and bottom to "pretty" it up according to my wife. Really proud, thanks for the plans Ana!
My record obsession was growing rapidly so I needed a solution to store my collection and I wanted some room for growth. I wanted a setup where you could flip through the records like at the record shops. It's often difficult to read the artists and album names when you can only see the spines of the album covers. I decided to make a cabinet with 9 drawers which holds approximately 540 records (60 records per drawer). More details and photos on my blog: http://www.woodworkingfourdummies.com/blog/vinyl-record-storage Cheers, Ian
I made this hall tree for my daughter for Christmas . I am a beginner with woodworking and this is the first piece of big furniture I have made.
My wife used you patio sectional and table plans to make herself a summer oasis. She built it specifically to fit a corner of our patio that we were never using. Now it is used almost daily for reading, visiting or just sitting outside watching the birds.
Tony for Julie
I took the advice from another user who commented that the depth of the changing table was not suitable for a standard changing pad (16" x 32"). Turns out he was correct, so I modified the design to have a depth of 16 1/4" (as opposed to 15.5" in the original plan). Really not sure how someone could have made this and a standard pad worked as is. If I did it over again, I probably would have made it just a touch deeper for a perfect fit because the pad slightly flares out and is not 100% square. My wife also wanted a larger space beside the changing pad, so I increased the width of the table by 5" and it worked nicely as you can see in the picture with the lamp and other items.
Fri, 03/23/2012 - 14:44
The plans for this table (created by another) show 3/4" for the top of the table and shelves as well as the topper. It seems like a little bit of overkill to me. Did you attach the sides of the topper straight to the table or did you have a 3/4" piece for the table and the topper?
I was thinking I would use my Kreg Jig and just attach it straight to the top of the table. I am also thinking that 1/2 plywood would be enough for the shelves with a 1"x2" intermediate support. I am trying to lessen the cost and the weight; oak can get pretty heavy and pricey.
Mon, 04/16/2012 - 21:35
I did have both 3/4" for the topper and the table. Is it overkill?, probably so, but my thought when making it with Oak was that I want it to last forever. I actually made a small table/night stand to go by the glider. I had some scrap of 1/2" that I used and it looks great, but I can tell that it is not as solid as the other, although still plenty solid for a small table.
Sat, 03/24/2012 - 08:50
I think 1/2" on the shelves would be fine, but definitely at least one 3/4" for the top. You could maybe skip the second layer and just add some 1x2 supports from below? I'm not sure. I went with the overkill method because I'm a worry wart. My baby is now 7 months old and extremely wiggly, so I'm glad for the extra support! Then again I used MDF for the shelving and white wood trim. I also skipped out on the dividers at the top, since wipes have their own boxes and I wasn't sure what else I'd be storing on top.
Mon, 04/09/2012 - 14:37
You did a nice job. Do you think making the shelves 16 1/2 would be perfect? I noticed that to that the size was not correct.
Mon, 04/16/2012 - 21:31
Thanks for the compliment. I think 16 1/2 would be pretty close. When I used 16 1/4, it wasn't bad by any means, but another 1/4" would likely do it.
Sat, 02/22/2014 - 13:15
What trim did you use and where did you find it? It looks great, but I can't find anything like that. Thanks!
Sat, 02/22/2014 - 13:17
What did you use for trim and where did you find it? It looks great, but I can't find anything in oak like that anywhere!
Sat, 02/22/2014 - 15:40
I got the trim at Lowes, maybe HD..it was just basic oak trim...stain grade.
This was my first project and love how it turned out. I have gotten compliments on it, but I unfortunately continue to look at the flaws in it and want to build another one. It was a great project though and I am in the middle of building the coffee table and end table as well. Here it is before we added all the odds and ends on to shelves and top
Tue, 01/14/2014 - 08:37
I love how you finished your console table - I'm now wishing I finished mine like that. I think we all see the flaws in our own work, but this looks fantastic and very professional.
Tue, 01/14/2014 - 08:37
I love how you finished your console table - I'm now wishing I finished mine like that. I think we all see the flaws in our own work, but this looks fantastic and very professional.
I modified the plans slightly, reducing the overall seating depth by 1.5" so I could use 8' lumber with minimal waste, and make 2 cushions out of one 54" width of fabric. I also tweaked the design to make a chaise lounge on one side. I used bargain priced sunbrella fabric (has a few imperfections) and recycled soda bottle fill for the cushions to keep cost lower. Building the wooden part was quick and easy (took an afternoon including two trips to the store), but this was my first sewing project so the total project time reflects my learning curve making and stuffing cushions.
Tue, 04/05/2016 - 06:45
This looks like a very lovely place to relax, can't believe that was your first sewing project!
Wed, 04/06/2016 - 06:34
This looks really great! You have inspired me to stop procrastinating and get started on our outdoor sectional. Every time I think about doing it the building part seems fun but, I'm overwhelmed by the task/cost of the cushions. I'm interested in learning more about the fill you used. Where did you find it and what was the approximate cost? Thanks and great work!
Wed, 06/29/2016 - 20:25
Whoops - sorry about that. This looks amazing, and the detail on the fabric is quite fantastic. I have been wanting to replace some old furniture that is falling apart, and this would really be a wonderful addition to the outdoor space. Kudos on the great work.
Made from
Upgraded Luggage Rack or Suitcase Stand Benches
just added the seat cushions
In the middle of a much needed makeover on our back deck! We did not have skirting around the deck and decided that we would like to close it in for extra storage(ladders,compost bin...) and we came up with this little something as a bonus. We are always hosting backyard get togethers and seating is a challenge. Setting up and putting away chairs,ugh. This has been the perfect solution. This was completely an "as we went" plan but the biggest need to know is, heavy duty hinges! (As I said,the deck is getting a makeover so go easy on the appearance:)
Jodi and Matt B.