Garden Tool Storage
Super easy and useful project. I made mine 8 ft. long because my studs are on 24 in. centers and I had a lot of tools to hang. It was fun building it and even more fun getting all those tools and things off the floor.
Super easy and useful project. I made mine 8 ft. long because my studs are on 24 in. centers and I had a lot of tools to hang. It was fun building it and even more fun getting all those tools and things off the floor.
I had been wanting to build something to hide the litterbox for a long time. When I saw the Printer's Console plan, I knew this was the perfect plan for a cat litter box furniture. I loved that Jen Woodhouse's version was completely modified to her bar plan, so I thought I could modify for my litterbox idea. I modified the plans on size, as I was trying to use a bunch of mis-matched plywood. I also modified it to include a cat door, a cat passageway on interior panel, a vent on the back behind one of the drawers, and the stone top. I built a frame on the back to house the backing as an inset piece, as I didn't want it to be seen at all. I learned a very important lesson during this build. Not all 1x3s are created equal. Once I got my doors assembled, they were too big for the opening. I couldn't shave off the tiny amount needed, and couldn't make anything work short of starting over with 1x4s, sawing off a small amount, and cutting down the # of "drawers" (and handles). I wanted the inside to be fully finished (because cat pee on raw wood would not be good!). I had to finish certain "planes" prior to putting the thing together. I used kitchen and bath paint on the inside floor and sides for easy cleanup. The stone was carryover from construction on our house 12 years ago. The handles were an amazing deal @ $1.81/each .
Sun, 11/25/2012 - 09:51
That is a fantastic idea and the table top is beautiful.
Mon, 11/26/2012 - 09:38
That is the most beautiful litter box I have ever seen!
Mon, 06/17/2013 - 12:23
Love your use of the buffet. Our family has discussed making a piece of furniture like this for our smaller dog. Nice to see someone has done it! Our big dog has scheduled feedings but our little dog would prefer to be a free feeder. Poor thing chokes down his food in our pantry listening to our big dog breathing under the door waiting for him to finish. When he is done we open the door and the Big, greedy dog bolts in looking for left overs. A family member has to wait patiently for the little dog to finish so he can escape the pantry. I really don't want a doggy door in my pretty swinging bi-fold doors to my pantry which is also access to our kitchen.That would be a pain to have to keep closed all day. But this buffet idea is super cute! Thanks for the inspiration.
Fri, 01/09/2015 - 22:01
I know this is an old post, but I'll ask anyway
I love this piece and am in the planning stages for ours. Thank you for sharing!
I am Wondering how you went about the table top. Did you install a 3/4 ply on top but not flush, allowing room for mortar and tile? If so how much room did you allow for the tile/mortar? 1/2 inch? How did you keep the surface of the tile level and uniform? Lastly, did you seal the tile with anything when you finished?
Aesthetically, the tile top really sets this piece off and I really want to make my own.
Thanks
Easy project no crazy cuts or tools needed. I did change a few things on the build. I changed the top from a 1x12 to a 2x12 to match the rest of my builds. And honestly it just looks and feels better! The trim is 1×3’s but I changed the middle shelf trim to a 1×2. Add the shelf 7.5 inches up from the bottom.
I had so much trouble deciding what to do with this HUGE closet in my breezeway. Previously it had just one bar across the top and ugly sliding doors. I loved Ana's design, but made several changes. Since my closet was super deep (32") I extended the depth of her design to about 25". I also staggered the rods for longer coats, and one that my 8 year old can actually reach to hang her stuff up! I changed the shelf design up a little bit too! Her instructions are super easy to change to your specifications. I did end up spending about $350 on this project, but keep in mind I was using 3 - 1x8's for each shelf instead of 1x4s.
Sliding barn door kitchen island with planked siding. 48L x 30W x 36H
Thants for the inspiration We love it.
We needed a way to store our 6 month old's toys in our main living area. We were previously keeping them in a pack and play and that wasn't going to cut it. We decided this plan would do the trick. It works even better than we anticipated. Built exactly the same as the plans with the same finish as well.
I built this for my daughter Keila. She loves it and her friends do too! Took me one day. I painted the entire bed in deck paint. It completely eliminated all
Splinters!!! I added the slide, a USB plug, cup holder, and fan.
I didn't realize how expensive pool loungers were. Thank goodness for Ana White! I modified the size to 73 inches long and 22 inches wide so they would be a good fit for the cushions I got from lowes. Something to take into account is that the 2x4 won't be able to rest on the back legs when you use the 2x6 on the sides. There is no way to get it in. I didn't realize until I had built them but I just cut two pieces of 2x4 at 3 1/2 inches and placed it on top so I can rest the back all the way down. Love the end result!
I used Western red cedar to build my chairs. The build was a little more expensive but well worth it. The chairs were stained with Cabot’s Australian Timber Oil ( Jarrah Brown). Thanks for the plans Ana, your site is awesome and you do a great job! Mark
Mon, 11/16/2020 - 12:31
Thanks for sharing Mark, definitely worth the extra investment!
So fun! Directions were easy! Can also be used as Backpack hanger if you put a little bit longer feet on them. I bought the metal hooks from Walmart.
I loved the look of the Craft room Storage tower but modified to suit my wife's bathroom theme/decor. The inside back (MDF beadboard) is painted a milk coffee color to lighten it up. The door inserts are plexiglass, which was more expensive than glass but with 2 boys 6 and 2 it is well spent, and the MDF beadboard. Covered the plexiglass with self-adhesive film for glass on both sides to hide the towels inside. This project took me about 12 hours to complete but over a 3 month period, mostly spent on finishing the project with my boys underfoot or at 12-2am. YIKES!!! If i keep this up she will want to buy instead of letting me build.
Price List:
wood: $100
Stain/Paint: left over from house reno. would have been $15 stain $20 Varnish 30$ quart of paint
Handle: $7
Hinges: $4 basic style
I wanted to use Eurostyle hinges but opted to buy the Kreg system instead of Forstner drill bits.
Will be building another just different dimensions for laundry room makeover.
Sat, 01/26/2013 - 12:18
Thanks! It was my first furniture building project! I did a huge reno that i did on my house but that is construction and 1/8th in isnt as big of an issue as in furniture.
Mon, 01/28/2013 - 20:45
I've been wanting to build something similar for my bathroom! Yours turned out great. It inspires me to get to work!
So, my skills have been as a cobbler, handy kind of guy for decades. Rough shelving for shop/garage basement storage etc... I've always done all my home maintenance and repairs so I'm familiar with a lot of stuff in and around the house. However I've never attempted a finished piece of furniture before. As always, I love the build and hate the finishing process.
My daughter had a pretty new mattress that she loved which was 13 inches thick and her celling is the standard 8 feet. Consider these kind of things before you build this design. We did and the plans were altered a little bit. We'll be building the bookcase later and either buying or building a desk as well. She can set up in bed with several inches above her head and there will be plenty of room over her head in a standard height office/computer chair underneath. All I basically did was; add a few inches to the height of the legs and uprights for the guard rail (4" I think), increased the head, foot, back and guard rail top planks from 1X4s to 1X6s. Which changed the dimensions of some of the spacers too. She isn't sure she wants the top rails on it but I think I'll put them on later.
We made our own bunkie board for firmer support, which also raised the thickness about 1/4" over just slats.
Details: Ladder fits tight between the leg and the guard rail. Glad I got those dimensions right. We'll be using Velcro to fasten the ladder to the bed (it's that tight, it'll be fine and she's 14yrs old). This way we can take it off easier to clean, move etc. Glue and screw everything you can except the long boards that will allow it to be broken down. Glue them and you'll never get it apart without breaking it. I used Titebond III on everything else with lots of clamps along the way.
On the front and back of the ladder treads I simply smeared some filler in the joints to smooth them out. You can see the result in the pictures. There is one closeup of the finish so you can see how it turned out doing it the way I did. If you want is smoother then a 220 sandpaper finish is what was called for on the clear finish, which I didn't do.
I also said it was a weekend project 10-20hrs. Had I bought better wood and did an easier finish it would have been. My learning experiences/errors made it longer than that for me.
Lessons Learned:
1. Buy better wood! If you want a better finish buy better wood. By the time I was finished filling, sanding, filling again, sanding some more... I used almost a whole quart of filler to make knotty pine smooth. Just buy smooth wood, I'm tellin ya! Hours of work and dry time. Again, if you want a good finish, then you need to shellac knotty pine so the resin from the knots doesn't bleed through. Better wood might have added 5-10% to the materials cost but saved several hours and would have looked even better that what I achieved. Better wood and you could cut the shellac ($15 per quart) if you didn't want the two tone distressing.
2. Check the actual board dimensions. For outer facing pieces I bought some better wood with no knots (radiata pine). These were for the outside pieces on the legs. They were just a bit wider than the common boards that were sandwiched between them... more sanding and filling to get a nice square smooth finish. It also made clamping and gluing them together harder before the filling and sanding could even begin. See number 1 above. lol
Anyhow, I'm not afraid of building furniture anymore and my daughter loves it. OH, yes now we have to repaint her room and accessorize for the ocean cabin look. More projects with my daughter. YAY!!!!
Thanks Ana
Mon, 12/14/2020 - 09:59
The bed looks amazing and I can see many more projects in your future, I appreciate your added tips!
Followed your plan but added extra 1 x 2 trim to the sides, feet made from 1 × 3 and 1x 3 trim around the top
These are my wooden magazine files made after looking at Ana's plans. I chose to paint these to match my bathroom.
See more of my build process at http://www.bryanpryor.com/2013/01/26/magazine-holders/
Wed, 02/13/2013 - 21:20
Great idea for corraling the magazines that pile up in the bathroom! I really like the colors, too.
Absolutely love the finish on this table.
Modified the plan in order to use 12 inch drawer slides and to fit the 1X24x48 project panel found at Lowes. The 2 inch swivel casters and drawer hardware were found at Home Depot.
My daughter and son in law needed a small table for the babies room and this ended up being the perfect solution!! Absolutely love it!!
Fri, 03/19/2021 - 05:50
Needed a small table for the grand baby’s room.. this was the perfect solution
I made the miter saw cart today. It took me about 2.5 hrs, but I was going slow and taking lots of breaks.
Fri, 04/05/2013 - 10:46
Looks great! I really, really need to build one these. Are you happy with the way it works?
We made this table from the original Balin Console table plans, but faced out the drawer fronts with some mitered trim and added some drawer stops inside to keep the drawers from falling out when pulled all the way.
The drawers were made with a cabinet grade plywood along with the sides and bottom of the table. We used 1x8s on the console top to get that nice wood look, where all corners and ends would be showing, but for the sides and bottom of the table, since the edges were all trimed out, the plywood worked out nicely.
The legs seemed plenty sturdy without the extra trim, so we skipped that to get a more simple look.
Drawer handles were found at our local Home Depot.
For the finish, we stained (with Minwax ebony) the edges where we wanted distressing, then wiped on vaseline along edges and painted over in Behr Swiss Coffee (white) in matte. After drying we took sandpaper to the edges to show the dark stain through. Because we used matte paint, after everything was finished, we waxed with a clear wax and buffed for a nice shine and a smooth texture.
Comments
saariko
Mon, 08/31/2020 - 11:06
love it
love it