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Modified the plan to use 2x2 with pocket screws to support the shelves.

Shelves were made edge glued board from Lowes https://www.lowes.com/pd/Common-1-in-x-24-in-x-4-ft-Actual-1-in-x-23-25…

Tryde coffee table made from a combination of pine and recycled wood from old pallets.

This was my second project. It took a little longer than I wanted because I don’t have a table saw :( I didn’t trust Lowe’s to cut the plywood for me since it needed to be perfectly square and they only guarantee their cuts to be within 3/4" so I had to wait to go to my dad’s house to borrow his, but other than that it went pretty fast!

I kept to the plans for the most part, but I added some trim and cabinet doors. I knew that at my house the inside of that cabinet would be a hot mess in a matter of days, so I wanted to have a way to cover it up! I just used 1x4’s to frame the doors and leftover scrap 1/4" plywood from the back for the faces. I used a router to rabbet out the doors so I could inset the plywood instead of it just sticking off of the back. They turned out pretty good considering they were my first and I had never used a router before! Overall, I am really happy with this one! I’ll be making the matching pieces this weekend - the coffee table, end table, and entry table.

I took the original plans and modified them to work with my requirements. Most of this piece is made with pallet wood. I made the rails from aluminum bars and sliding door pulleys. 

I built this cabinet to store magazines and diapers (towels when the time comes) in the small 1/2 bath.

The top was made with left over oak pieces from when I ripped out the carpet and 2x12 stairs and replaced with oak treads.

This is the prototype build for the Cedar 2-drawer desktop storage cube. It is made from 1 piece of ½” x 5 ½” x 6’ fence picket, about $3 for wood. I had based this plan on a board that is ½” thick and 5 ½” wide, and had identified areas in the plan where you’ll want to measure and cut as you build. I found this especially important on the prototype build, since it turned out the picket I bought was 5 3/8” wide, which affected the depth of the shelf, length of the drawer sides, and the size of the drawer bottom. Measuring and trimming as you go gives the best fit for all the pieces. Probably the most helpful thing besides keeping the measuring tape handy, was some 60-grit sandpaper. After everything was assembled, I used 60-grit sandpaper with my palm sander to sand down any high spots caused by cupping, to get the outsides nice and smooth. Followed up with some 220-grit for a nice smooth final sand. The pulls are some ¾” x 1 ½” pieces of the cedar, sanded well on all sides. I just cut these from the scraps, and they are glued on. You can use regular knobs or pulls if you like. You may need a shorter screw or a ¼” spacer, since the drawer face is only ½” thick. The screws for regular knobs are normally sized for a ¾” thick door or drawer face. This build took about 3 hours. Finishing time will depend on the type of finish used. My words of advice for building this would be: Take your time measuring. Measure twice before cutting. Sand thoroughly. Have fun!

I made this using the Rustic X console plans but changed a few aspects. Instead of 2x2's I used 2x3's to beef up the cross beams and removed the X. Also extended the shelves out a few extra inches.

It took me about  2 hours to finish my ladder. I used 3 2x4s. The sides are 6 feet long and the rungs 17 inches each with a space of 13 inches in between. I used PH for the rungs.

I stained it with medium walnut Danish oil.

I left 5 inches from the top. I wished I had left more room in the bottom but still pleased with the outcome.   

I love the numbered cubbies from pottery barn kids, and decided to make a version of them for our son's new desk in his playroom. Our son keeps his science things in them.

I built this to donate to our church's fall festival's live auction.  My peg board didn't line up with the boards for me to completely screw it in, but I just used nails in those spot...no big deal at all!

chest  size   60" long 22" deep  22" tall

   made with pine

  painted white with a walnut stained top

An artsy twist on the typical coat rack. Instead of coat hooks I used railroad ties. Instead of paint, i used a blow torch and burnt it black and for the art.... I used a dremel tool and engraved a classroom of 1st graders artwork into the wood.

This project has taken longer than anticipated. I love how it turned out, and so does my son. My husband did most of the work on this. I will be adding pictures once I finish the window grids and the bottom curtains.

I blogged more details if interested in reading.

Rustic X-Console Table made from just 2x6s striped in half to make the legs instead of using 2x4s and cutting down a 2x6 to 1 1/2in cuts to make 1x1 stripes.  I used 3/4in sanded plywood for the shelves. Everything was put together with Kreg jig screws and wood glue. Stain was applied using an air compressor and spray gun to spray a even coat of stain in sections at a time, while the stain is still wet, I wipe off the excess stain with a clean rag leaving an even wood stain finish results. This cuts the staining from what would normally take hours of painful hand staining to just minutes with a spray gun. After the stain drys, I go over the table with either fine wool pad or 1000 grit sand paper to remove any rough spots. I then apply the polyurethane with the spray gun as well. Once that dries, I go over the table again with 2000 grit wet/dry sand paper leaving a ultra smooth even finish. I use a total of 6 (2x6 white pine boards) striped to needed sizes and half of (4x8 sanded 3/4in plywood) for this project. I had to modify the demensions for the different sizes of cuts, but overall saving money instead of buying the individual 2x4s,1x1s, and solid pine boards. It takes a bit longer but well worth it.

Made for my grandson Christmas 2017

Our old cluttered coat closet is now lockers with lots of storage. I chose not to do the Braden bench due to a space issue so I framed a bench out with 2x4's, lined it with ply wood, covered the front with some trim and bead board and topped it with a nice piece of stained oak 3/4 inch plywood. The lids were cut and attached with continuous hinges and inside I used 2 lift hinges so that little fingers won't get smashed. I attached the lockers to the bench with a few Kreg jig screws which worked really well.

This was the most complicated project I've built yet, and of course I had a few problems. First, I drilled some holes in the wrong places, and things didn't line up. So i drilled them again. Then I had trouble with holding everything level without a helper. When it came time for the plant stand to stand ip, it wouldn't.

No worries. I screwed a couple of short boards underneath the top rack and made it a Stationary Plant Stand!

The thing is really cute and everyone asks me where I got it. I tell them I made it myself from Ana White plans. They never notice the extra holes in the legs or wonder why I can't fold it up and store it!