Raised planter boxes
My first ever build! I made two of these planters for my deck. They were easy and the cucumbers and runner beans I grew from seed loved the deep soil in them! They make my little space feel like an oasis.
My first ever build! I made two of these planters for my deck. They were easy and the cucumbers and runner beans I grew from seed loved the deep soil in them! They make my little space feel like an oasis.
I made this for my boys and they LOVE it! I opted for a square top, since the flower would not have gone over well...Plus I found a square top for $1 at the Restore and who can pass that up, and the legs were free. The rest of the wood was from the Home Depot Cull bin or furring strips. The chairs didn't get rounded (no jig saw) and I didn't add a hole (not a big enough drill bit). But my boys love them and use them all the time!
Thanks Ana for such great plans!
Check out more at http://mylove2create.blogspot.com/2012/10/diy-kids-table-and-chairs.html
As part of my backyard overhaul I've added an outdoor shower and chalkboard against the wall of the house. There's also a small sand pit and deck area, so the shower comes in handy to wash the dirty feet. I had a few pallets sitting under the deck for years and finally put them to use. Some cuts here and there and some sanding and they look great. For the floor mat I just cut the pallet piece you can see in one of the photos in half and framed it with treated 2x4". The chalkboard is a plain sheet of 2x4' project board primed and painted several coats with flat black exterior paint. I used this over the 'chalkboard' paint because it's exterior grade. It works great, even better than chalkboard paint imo. The frame is made of the cut slats of the pallet, just glued and nailed on. The fence also is a cut pallet. I just made random cuts about half way through on varying angles which resulted in two mirrored halves of the pallet. They fit the space perfectly. I love the random look of it and may give it some paint eventually.
slight change using 2x6 pieces for the seat and back... Otherwise followed the plans to a T and love the outcome
12/16/14 UPDATE: Posted a plan for this project, linked in this brag post
This is a variation of the Easy Jewelry Box plan. The completed measurement is 11” wide, 14 ½” high, and 7 ½” deep. This one has a center “tower” with 5 drawers 5 ½” wide, and a wide overhang on the top and bottom, which covers the 2 side doors that open out for hanging necklaces. The drawers are lined with embossed felt, and the drawer bottoms and insides of doors are covered with sticky-back felt. The 2 removable ring drawer inserts are some scraps of 1” foam, covered with scraps of the sticky-back felt, with slits cut into the foam with a utility knife (cut the slits into the felt first, attach it to the foam, then cut the slits into the foam). Cost breakdown: antique brass knobs: $28, sticky back & embossed felt: $14, hooks: $15, wood: $35, hinges: $7, paint: $5. (already on hand: finish nails, glue, sandpaper, left over stain & poly) . I worked on this a few hours a day over a long weekend, probably about 12 hours total. Finishing took most of this time, the build was actually only a couple of hours.
Tue, 12/16/2014 - 16:52
Hi jgg2006, I just posted the plan:
http://ana-white.com/node/13664
Also if you click the orange highlighted link for Fancy Jewelry Box, it will take you to the plan. The full plan is a .pdf attachment to that post, appearing just below "finish used".
:)
Joanne
White Cedar outdoor sectional with 4x4 sides. Used rabbit and dado joints for the Arms, with a 3/8 lag screw for extra support. I used a 1/2” countersink for the lag screws and filled the hole with an alder dowel plug to add a design feature.
Actually my first build ever. Red oak plywood top and poplar everything else. Added poplar 1x3s around the edges so you don't see the plywood edge. It's surprisingly sturdy!
I made two of these. One for each granddaughter at the time. (Since then I have another granddaughter and a grandson.) Made with solid oak everywhere except the top. I made the top with oak plywood for strength. I edged the lid with oak. These were the first projects I ever made where things had to fit tightly together and the beginning of my woodworking hobby.
I had started this project last year in September and finished it finally 2020 in March because I get my chicken then.
I did modify the chicken coop a little bit due to the material I got.
The instructions and most of all the cutting list I like best!
Antje
I liked the style of this table and needed something for my kitchen that looked nice but not cheap. I had to shrink it to fit in my kitchen as my space is limited. I changed the top to have a little more finished look and even though I made it smaller than normal, the size I have still fits 6 people. I think it came out fairly well and wanted to say thanks a million for some great ideas and plans.
More difficult build then I'm used too. Modified it to fit a full mattress but I think it turned out great! It's a lot cheaper to build than most Murphy beds to purchase out there on the market. Enjoyed these plans. Thank you Ana!
Tryde end tables
Fri, 11/21/2014 - 09:32
I really love the rounded edges! This is beautiful!
This is the application of the "Vegetable Rack with Slide Out Trays" from Ana White.
I just added a door and some mosquito net, to avoid midges in summer.
Ana White's plans were amazing and the outcome was perfect! What a fun project for Christmas! Thanks a Zillion, Ana!!
Fri, 12/25/2020 - 12:41
This just makes me smile so big, great job and Merry Christmas!
In reply to Heartwarming! by Ana White Admin
Tue, 12/29/2020 - 11:17
You ARE the Master!! Looking forward to more fun projects!
Decided to try my hand at a faux fireplace for our house to be completed and setup before christmas. Used ana white's faux fireplace with hidden storage plans but made a few tweaks to the size and style. Still have to add the electric fireplace logs and will update photos once it is added.
This is my first piece of furniture I've ever made from a plan. I would recommend this for someone who is new to the craft. I also sanded each board before I put it together. I just find this easier to do than sanding it afterwards. Plus, it gives me the chance to look at the grain and see where I might want it. Both the stain and clear coat I used can be washed out of your brush with soap and water.
Wed, 02/13/2013 - 10:54
Hey, thanks so much for your comment, totally made my day (0: The tray was originally brown (no I didn't make it) but I did paint it white and put a paper mosaic on it. You can read about that here if you want to see how I did it: http://thegoodrebellion.blogspot.ca/2013/01/paper-mosaic-tray.html
We wanted a round table that would seat a full Monopoly game. To do this we needed about a 5' diameter tabletop. The base was made consistent with the plans.
A few tips on the base:
If you want to make a round tabletop, here is what I did (there may be better methods). Keep in mind this was for a ~60" diameter table, I was assuming that the perimeter arc pieces would be about 4.5" wide and that I would cut the inner circle at a 50" diameter.
Fri, 12/19/2014 - 07:13
Simply beautiful. Very impressed with this table top.
Tue, 01/13/2015 - 10:05
Can we get some better details on the instructions for this?
In reply to Better instructions? by odeeodum
Sat, 02/07/2015 - 16:52
I updated the instructions. Let me know if you have any more questions.
Sun, 03/08/2015 - 10:23
Hi, your table is beautiful! I was wondering if you had to increase the size of your base since your table top is 60". I'm going to be building a round one the same size and wanted to make sure it would be stable at the current size.
In reply to did you increase the base size by ILoveDIYing
Fri, 03/13/2015 - 20:36
The only modification I made to the base was the to the lengths of the 2x4 pieces that make up the "X" that sits between the base and the tabletop. In the plans, this "X" is made of (1) 32" piece and (2) 14.5" pieces. I believe I increased these to 36" and 16.5", respectively. Truthfully, I don't think this modification added much value.
I did some calculations and at a 60" diameter, it would've taken over 100 lbs placed at the edge of the table. This was also a function of the weight of the table. The heavier the table, the more stable it will be.
Tue, 03/31/2015 - 07:30
On your boarder pieces what angle did you cut the ends to and how did you lay the pieces out to route the diameters?
Sun, 04/05/2015 - 19:21
I want to put a concrete top on this base and increase the diameter to 72". Would I need to increase the size of the base to accommodate the larger and heavier top? Thank you
In reply to Increased base size? by Momma Gladden
Tue, 04/14/2015 - 20:20
It all depends on how much your tabletop weighs. I'm going to take a wild guess that your tabletop will weigh around 500 lbs (~28 sq. ft. at ~18 lbs/sq. ft.). For reference, I think my wood top weighed about 80 lbs. I will also assume the wood base weighs 50 lbs. Using these assumptions, the result is a worst-case scenario (weight placed at edge of table, tipping between two table legs) of tipping at 300 lbs. The lighter the tabletop, the less stable it will be. Since your concrete table is likely to weigh a lot more than my wood top, it will be a lot more stable.
That addresses the design and assumes none of the wood or connections (screws) fail under the increased load (weight of concrete). I can't speak very confident to this aspect. Though I can venture a guess. I will guess that it will be stable under no load, but there will increased loads when under uneven stress (i.e. somebody leaning on one side of the table). Honestly, I don't know how valuable any further speculation would be.
Tue, 09/06/2016 - 08:14
Can the pedestal hold a 66"- 72" top? I've been searching for a table that seats 6 comfortably with an occasional squeeze for 8. I think a 60" would work but my husband thinks 72". We are struggling to find exactly what we want and are now investigating DIYs . This is a beautiful table!!
In reply to 72" version by X3cougsp
Wed, 10/05/2016 - 17:16
This is a conversation that we had in our house as well. My personal opinion is that 60" is big enough for 6 people and good enough for 8 people. What we did to "dry run" it was I cut a board to 72" and set it up at table height and we sat at oppposite ends of the board. I asked my wife if it was too big and we both agreed that not only would really shrink the room, but it also was too big for regular use. We currently have 6 chairs around this on a regular basis. As for the stability of the table itself, you may want to increase the width of the base. I say this because 74 lbs at the edge of the table (in between legs) will cause the table to tip, which is probably a force that will be exceeded by someone leaning on it.
In reply to curved piece how to cut them by jcatanz740
Sun, 12/25/2016 - 07:11
I've put a new pic up that shows my setup while cutting the perimeter pieces. What's not clear is that I screwed the pieces to my workbench from the bottom.
Thu, 12/22/2016 - 20:58
I used the jig that I made the large circle but made a couple new radii. The inner edge was the round piece radius minus half of the bit diameter. The other radius is as wide as you want to make it.
I fixed this jig to my work bench and set it up so that I would be cutting each piece identically. I have a picture that I'll add that shows it better than I can explain it.
Mon, 01/09/2017 - 07:36
On your boarder pieces what angle did you cut the ends to make them fit?
In reply to Boarder pieces by Omally83
Sat, 01/21/2017 - 07:46
I believe my approach was that I cut the 2x8s to the length that would produce the arc length I was looking for. So basically the outer edge was going to (if my jig did its job) be exactly as long as I needed it to be. With that in mind, I used a piece of yarn tied to the pivot point on the jig that I was using and used that to tell me where I needed to make the cut.
Otherwise, I could've used trig to figure it out but I was all angled out by that point. With 8 border pieces they should each cover 45 degrees (360/8) and the other two angles should be equal ((180 - 45))/2=67.5) resulting in a 67.5 degree angle. The trouble in using that method is it doesn't account for all the little screw-ups that may have thrown off certain measurements. Plus, the yarn-thing was pretty easy.
In reply to I love this is this by Mdenton728
Sat, 02/17/2018 - 08:34
Do you mean extend like adding a leaf?
Sat, 01/23/2021 - 14:17
We made the table base for a 60" solid walnut top (used the wider measurements). When people get up from the table, my husband thinks the base twists when they push off. Has anyone else noticed this or have a suggestion on how to make the table not twist? Thanks, Sue
This is my first Anna White project. It turned out really well.
I’ve been wanting to build this bed for our guest bedroom for a while. Finally gathered the courage to tackle it over the weekend. This is my first project of this size and difficulty. It’s not perfect, but I love it.