I modified the plans for the planter box to make a holder for Pool Noodles. I made it 40" tall and used 4-4" fence pickets and 1-5.5" fence pickets. I used a 4" spacer and the openings worked out perfect. I stained inside and out since it would show with 2 coats of the solid stain. It is perfect! Thank you so much for the inspiration and plans!
This is our first original design! We had a request for a custom bar/retail counter for my mother in law's children's re-sale store and this is what we came up with! After we found a ridiculously awesome deal on 3/4 inch hardwood plywood (the only down side was that it was already cut into 2ft by 4ft pieces) we quickly got to work. Using our trusty Kreg Jig we turned 4 pieces of plywood into one large piece to create the front of the bar. From there we attached 1x3s and 1x2s to cover any seams that were caused by the different plywood pieces.
The finish was kind of a struggle but I love how it turned out in the end. It looks like the piece was made 100 years ago and definitely has a lot of soul. I started with Early American but it made the wood too red. So from there, I layered on Kona stain, lime wax, and dark wax and this is how it turned out! Which was not exactly what I was going for, but I LOVE it!
We are so happy with how it turned out. It is being picked up by its new owner tonight and I'm soooo sorry to see it go. We're happy that the piece will be functioning beautifully in the store with TONS of storage in the back. We're very proud of this one.
oh and it cost us about $130 for all lumber and finish materials.
Thu, 08/15/2019 - 12:41
Wow!!! This is amazing! I'd love to draw up plans if you are open to that!
I used pocket holes to hide the screws. I made an ottoman out of the outdoor coffee table plans to my dimensions that can be used as a coffee table when we need it.
I used a mix of 2x4's and 1x4's for this project. It is only 4 feet long so I thought 2x4's would make it too bulky. It goes together very quickly and it looks great!
My husband and I built a garden tool shed using your plans for a "Small Outdoor Shed or Closet." We needed exactly this size for our available space. (THANK YOU! The video was really helpful and the plans were very detailed.) We are not handy at ALL, and are definitely beginners when it comes to woodworking. But, when the person who was supposed to build it for us was delayed, we thought we could try it, or at least START.
We bought a lower-end Kreg pocket jig and a secondhand mitre saw, and set to work, using T1-11 siding. We ended up building the entire shed ourselves, and were very surprised at the end result (and proud too!). The hardest part was building the doors, since we weren't really sure how to construct them to keep them from bowing. We ended up putting trim all around the edges of the T1-11 plywood doors, inside and out. (We were too far into building them when we realized we probably should have done it differently.) We also couldn't figure out how to get the double doors to stay tightly shut, but ended up using a rotating block (see picture) at the bottom and it works great, especially given that one of the doors had a slight bow at the bottom.
I think the only ways in which we deviated from the plan were that we added trim, an additional 2x4 up high across the back of the shed (for hanging long-handled tools), and two interior shelves on the left (from leftover siding). We used colored corrugated polycarbonate sheeting over the roof instead of asphalt shingles. (Unfortunately you have to use specific screws for the sheeting and one length was too short and the other too long and protrudes through the roofing slightly, into the interior. But we like the pop of color the sheeting adds, and REALLY didn't want to do shingles for such a small area, nor did we know how to do shingles.)
My final suggestions would be that a mitre saw and pocket jig are REALLY helpful and using star head screws is easier. I would also suggest that you paint everything (prime and color coat) before assembly and just touch up afterwards, especially if you use a lot of trim as we did. We primed and painted the siding but just primed the trim, and it was a real pain to put the color coat on all that 1x3 trim after construction.
This plan is listed as an "intermediate" project and I think that's probably a correct designation. As beginners, it just took BOTH of us to figure it all out (we work really well together) and to build it, and it took a much longer time than it would for someone with more experience.
Tue, 10/06/2020 - 15:56
Well done! I love this! Can I ask what dimension your garden tool shed is? And how did you decide on the new roof size/angle? I have a similar space and am contemplating something similar. Thanks!!
Tue, 10/06/2020 - 15:56
Well done! I love this! Can I ask what dimension your garden tool shed is? And how did you decide on the new roof size/angle? I have a similar space and am contemplating something similar. Thanks!!
I used Ana’s plan to build this great bench for the Master Bathroom. It works out great!
Sun, 09/04/2022 - 12:52
I really like the two tone finish, thank you for sharing!
I used Western red cedar to build my chairs. The build was a little more expensive but well worth it. The chairs were stained with Cabot’s Australian Timber Oil ( Jarrah Brown). Thanks for the plans Ana, your site is awesome and you do a great job! Mark
Mon, 11/16/2020 - 12:31
Thanks for sharing Mark, definitely worth the extra investment!
Platform (Pedestal) with Drawers for front-loader Washer & Dryer. Cheaper than buying the manufacturer's plastic pedestals and more fun to build anyway! The drawers are also much wider and deeper than the manufacturer's pedestals. We can usually fit about 3 full loads of laundry in each drawer. (That's 6 loads of laundry before we have to start folding!) It's a very easy and basic DIY project. I made a 2nd one for my brother using these plans (sans the drawers). I gotta say, the drawers are SO nice to have though. But you could just leave the front open, without drawers, and slide some laundry baskets underneath for an even quicker project. We've been using this platform now for over 2 years and there is still no squeaking or rattling. The washer & dryer haven't moved from the vibration even in the slightest. They're exactly where I placed them on the pedestal 2 years ago. There's also zero problem with the weight of the washer either...it really is a strong frame. (After finishing, I jumped up and down on it!) A couple small tweaks I would make doing it over is raising the drawers a 1/2" in. off the floor to tuck a rug underneath (as is, they sit about 1/8" in. off the floor). Also, I would cut out a couple of square holes in the back panel to access those socks that fall behind (I can't access the sides of my W&D in our particular laundry room). Lastly, I would have painted with a quality paint (I just used a few cans of white spray paint to be quicker). Step-by-Step Plans and Materials List (PDF) and many more photos found at the Blog Link below...I'm certainly no professional "Plans Writer" so email if you have questions! Happy DIY-ing! Estimated Cost: ~$200 (2x6 lumber, plywood, drawer trim, nails, screws, paint)
Wed, 03/13/2013 - 10:12
I have wanted to do the pedestal project for quite a while. I am so glad I held off though. Yours are fantastic! I would never have thought of drawers to hide the dirty laundry! Love it!
Fri, 02/07/2014 - 17:05
Hello this looks great and for the amateur carpenter I am but one item I need clarified "the top measurement at 64" is .25" greater than the bottom at 63.75"
Please explain if I am missing something
Thanks
Mon, 02/10/2014 - 15:33
Not sure what measurement you mean that's 63.75" since there's no "bottom" to the pedestals. Or do you mean 1/4" wider than the sides? The top panel should overhang both sides by 1/4" each so that when the side plywood is attached, it will be flush. Hopefully that helps? (If I'm understanding the question correctly)
Mon, 02/24/2014 - 10:29
Could leave the back panel of plywood out so you could reach what may fall behind? Then you would just have to pull the drawers out?
Thu, 12/03/2015 - 06:11
Did you ever find out if you can leave off the back panel?
Wed, 06/22/2016 - 16:35
Back panel is very very structural and provides lot of strength. If i wanted more access than the 5-7 inch of duct space behind the pedestal gives me, then i would replace the back panel with a long 2x6, that holds the three legs from going in different directions due to all that weight.
Mon, 12/12/2016 - 14:58
This is the one modification I could make if i could redo these plans...I would still put on the back panel of plywood as it stabilizes the pedestal, I would just have cut out a rectangle (behind each drawer) so that I could remove the drawers and stick my hand/arm through to grab fallen clothes or vacuum the lint.
Mon, 12/18/2017 - 19:17
Rather than cut holes in the back, I just cut the back and side boards a little small and left a gap around the bottom the whole way around. That way I can get a vaccuum hose in there or reach through and get lost items. Because my washer and dryer seem to be deeper than yours (I needed at least 33" depth, so I went with 3'), that also worked out well in getting the most out of the boards. I could do the top, back, and sides out of one single sheet of good 3/4" plywood just leaving those small gaps at the bottom for clean-up and retreival.
Fri, 11/20/2015 - 05:23
Hello,
I downloaded the pdf but have exactly the same information that the website html, where can I find a solution step by step guide?
Thank you for all the interesting posts.
Mon, 12/12/2016 - 14:55
The original step-by-step plans are found on Ana-White:
http://www.ana-white.com/2011/01/sausha%E2%80%99s-washerdryer-pedestals
I LOVE these plans. This was my first project, and although it was a big one to start with, the plans were easy to follow. If I can do it, anyone can. I added the rock wall. My kids and I love it. Total cost for me (including all lumber, nails, paint, slide, etc.) is about $850.
This was the second piece of furniture that my husband and I ever made. We had built a coffee table that had a lift up top so that we could eat dinner on the couch and store all of our board games. Once we tackled that, I thought we could conquer the world (even though the table was pretty basic). So when my now-husband was about to move into his first apartment without a roommate and I saw it as an opportunity to decorate my own place (even though I wasn’t living there). Luckily,he agreed it was time to get rid of his tiny Ikea TV stand that was probably 2ft off the ground and not a great height for a TV, and agreed to build this awesome TV console with me. To this day, it’s still my favorite piece of furniture in our house.
Sat, 11/09/2019 - 14:12
Love this, needing one in my front entry way. How long did it take?
The concept of hidden boot storage at the back is genius!!! I knew as soon as I saw your plan that I needed that in this space! Thank you so much for what you do!
Fri, 01/22/2021 - 11:42
May I ask how you would assemble if you wanted the hinge in the back as in this picture?
Thank you.
Wed, 08/25/2021 - 04:51
Hello, can you tell me how to find the plans for the Mudroom Closet makeover? I’m interested in doing the one pictured on this page.
Thank you
This was my seventh outdoor couch but my first sectional. My very first couches were all inspired by Ana White's plans and I have gotten so much better with my skills that I building other things as well. Thanks Ana for all your inspiration!
I've been planning on building a patio table for this coming spring and summer, but didn't know where to begin. I found Ana's wonderful site and now I don't know where to stop! So many great ideas.
After seeing ewood's great table I decided to make one similar. I made my square table based on Ana's and ewood's basic designs. Thank you both. I also made a bench based on Ana's design.
Sun, 03/18/2012 - 16:36
That looks like it could handle a big and boisterous group. The cedar and the finish are beautiful.
Thu, 03/29/2012 - 07:37
I have a family of 7 (soon to be 8, I hope), and was trying to figure out how to fit us all on the rectangular table. This is the solution! I can simply make 4 benches to go with it! Thanks for the idea and the picture!
Mon, 04/09/2012 - 07:24
Love this table and your modifications to ewood's table. I was wondering what size are the legs on your table - I can't tell if they are 4x4s...which is sort of what I'd like to have on mine. And they are under mounted, which I love because I want to make ours with the ability to remove the legs for reduced storage space in the winter. If you could would you mind putting a few close up photos of how the outside corner came out and the underside of the corners. It would be much appreciated.
Mon, 04/09/2012 - 07:27
Love this table and your modifications to ewood's table. I was wondering what size are the legs on your table - I can't tell if they are 4x4s...which is sort of what I'd like to have on mine. And they are under mounted, which I love because I want to make ours with the ability to remove the legs for reduced storage space in the winter. If you could would you mind putting a few close up photos of how the outside corner came out and the underside of the corners. It would be much appreciated.
In reply to Questions :) by K_W (not verified)
Sat, 04/14/2012 - 13:35
Hi - sorry it took a little while to get back to you. Yes the legs are 4x4's. I used knotted cedar 4x4's for the legs and made them 29" tall. I wanted to be able to disassemble the table and put it away for winter, so I attached the legs using carriage bolts, 2 per side (4 total per leg). I drilled holes using a pilot bit, then used a spatter bit to make the larger holes for the carriage bolt.
I didn't bother to counter sink them, but if I made another I think I would try that to make a more polished look. The legs are sturdy, the table doesn't wobble at all, but I am sure that someone with more furniture building experience might have a different/better idea.
I've added a couple more photos showing the corners, outside and underneath. I've also added my very basic plans that I used to make the table, one of these days I will study Ana's post of how to use sketch-up, until then this is what I worked with.
Wed, 06/06/2012 - 09:26
Can you tell me what size (width) boards you used on the frame pieces of the table, and what size on the inner boards? From your diagrams, it looks like the frame is made of 1x4s, but the inner pieces look smaller. Thank you !!!
Your table is absolutely beautiful. It looks like a very high-end piece of furniture. One of my favorite things is how the carriage bolts are installed -- I wouldn't change a thing on them!
Tue, 07/30/2013 - 16:36
Sorry it took so long to reply - I didn't see your post. So far the table is holding up well.
You're right, the top is made from 1x4's, including the inlaid slats. To support the top, I cut 1x4's down to 1x3's so they remain hidden by the side 1x4's of the frame.
Tue, 10/16/2012 - 18:02
Love the table - looks absolutely fantastic! I have been looking for a decent square outdoor table for ages and this one certainly fits the bill.
Can you please add a photo of the underside of the table and advise how you fastened inner boards on table top. Thanks.
In reply to Question by Aussie Paul (not verified)
Tue, 07/30/2013 - 16:40
I added a new photo of the bottom. Hopefully this will help show how I attached the top. I have a number of additional photo's I can send to you if you like - this site limits the number of photos I can add.
Everything is attached from the bottom to hide the screws. I used a kreg jig and it helped so much - i really recommend it.
Wed, 08/14/2013 - 12:35
I love the look of this table, man - I think I'm gonna steal some ideas from this.
I have a question about your top, though. The slats look to be 1x4s, which I can understand, but the edges seem to be a bigger size.
Did you use 1x6 boards for the edges? 1x8s? Something else?
Thanks for your help.
Mon, 09/02/2013 - 11:03
Thank you - please take any ideas from it that you can. That is what I love that about Ana's site. You can take these great ideas and make them fit your own style...
You're right - the table top is made of 1x4's and 1x6's. When i put the top together I made the frame first. Then I added the exterior 1x6's. Next I added the center 1x6. Lastly I cut each 1x4 to size and added them.
Sat, 05/17/2014 - 07:15
This is an amazing table, it is beautiful! I am somewhat new to wood working and was wondering if there was a material list? I plan on creating this in AutoCAD first, so I have a visual to work off of. Also what did you use for spacing in between the boards or what was the allowance of space.
Thanks again, your work is beautiful!
Sat, 05/17/2014 - 07:15
This is an amazing table, it is beautiful! I am somewhat new to wood working and was wondering if there was a material list? I plan on creating this in AutoCAD first, so I have a visual to work off of. Also what did you use for spacing in between the boards or what was the allowance of space.
Thanks again, your work is beautiful!
Wed, 06/17/2015 - 11:48
Great table…any chance you can share the plan and material list? Cheers
Wed, 04/22/2020 - 20:37
In looking at the plans and the underside of the table, there are some measurements missing that make it a little hard to decipher. It would be good to know the lumber sizes e.g. 1x4x8 etc. the underneath side seems to have some additional boards that don’t seem to be in the drawing. I was just wondering if it might be possible to get some additional details?
Sun, 05/24/2020 - 08:05
This is a beautiful table and I'm going to try and replicate in a rectangular version. Primary question I have is what length screws you used to affix the framing pieces underneath to the top side so that the wood doesn't split and that the screws don't pop thru the top. Any help you can provide would be appreciated, if even you still look at this page. Thanks in advance!
I used Ana's Freestanding Shelf plan and customized it to fit my needs. I incorporated laundry and recycle storage, a rolling bench and built in for our chest freezer. If you want to see it being built with some added tips, that video is available here https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N8w7XGiVMbs&t=258s
I used the basic framing plan for the project, but extended roof overhangs, added engineered siding / trim and cedar shake roofing. I put 2x4 bracing on for the platform.
This was born out of the need for more counter space in our galley kitchen. We don't have the space to add an island. Especially around the holidays, it would be great to have extra space for making cookies, serving big meals, etc. I used Ana's Small Kitchen Island Prep Cart plans for inspiration. I adapted the dimensions to fit at the end of our counters when not in use and added a drop leaf to give us almost 4 additional feet of butcher block counter top when we need it. I used scrap lumber that I had for the cabinet and had an extra drawer handle that matches our kitchen cabinets but bought the butcher block, locking casters, drawer slide and hardware for the legs. Also, the weight of the butcher block makes it want to tip when it's away from the cabinet with the drop leaf down so I added a lead counter weight inside the drawer.
Tue, 04/27/2021 - 18:09
I am so interested in doing this, but would like more details on how the drop leaf was constructed. Would it be possible to get more information?
In reply to I am so interested in doing… by haartd
Sat, 07/24/2021 - 16:59
Sure! I used a 4 foot butcher block and cut it down. The horizontal part is 13 1/2" and the drop leaf part is 32 1/8" attached with a piano hinge. The legs need to be cut and hinged to fit when folded up. This one is made so that the drop leaf fits right under the overhang of the kitchen countertop that it is next to so it's snug against the cabinet and not an issue but, if you want it to be freestanding, the weight of the butcher block will pull it over if you don't weight the cabinet down with something as well. I got a 5 pound lead bar from Amazon in case we need to use it somewhere else. I hope that helps! Let me know if you have any other questions.
I was in love with the RH Merida set because of its clean lines and modern style. Also, the plan seemed simple enough that I could re-create it without a pattern. The only thing that I did not like about it is the lack of arms. I really like to have a place to put my arm or my beverage :) - so I added arms to the design.
Thu, 05/30/2019 - 18:45
It’s beautiful! Do you have a set of plans that you might be willing to share?
Wed, 05/20/2020 - 10:45
This is Awesome. I'm halfway in the middle as i thought I could complete without plans. Do you have any plans could share. Please....
Fri, 06/19/2020 - 15:54
were you able to get plans? I would LOVE plans too! we want to try and re-create this and would prefer NOT to get stuck!
Fri, 06/19/2020 - 15:55
Would LOVE to get plans, would even pay for them! Found rough drawings online but they are chicken scratch and hard to interpret!
My wife saw something like this on Pinterest and desperately wanted one. The one she saw was hexagonal in shape. We didn't need as many swings so we went with just a plain square shape. We used 6x6s for the legs and posts across the top and used 4x4s for the angled support pieces. We built the swings using the plan from this website. All the materials can be picked up at the blue and orange stores. However when it came to the springs for the swings, the blue store was 1/3 of the price of HD. The legs are 12' long and buried 4' under the ground and cemented in for strength. Luckily I am retired military and was able to rent an auger for 1/2 the price of HD or the blue store. You could do it by hand but it saved us hours and lots of back pain. We found our dimensions for the size we wanted and spray painted dots on the ground where the posts were going to go. We dug the holes and stuffed the 6x6s in them. Using a post level we made sure they were plum. We braced them and added the quickrete and left them to setup over night. The next day we had to make sure all the tops were level with each other. This is where having some knowledge of physics paid off. I took clear tubing and screwed it above the height that I wanted on one post and then screwed the other end to another post. Fill it with water until the water level on the first post is where I wanted it (8 feet high) and it will automatically fill it level on the other end. There is a picture of this above. Water will always level itself out. I had to do this because my yard is at a slight down hill grade. We marked it and cut the tops off to make it level. After attaching the 6x6s on the top with 8" lag bolts it was time to paint. After painting was done we built 3 swings from Ana's plans. We shortened them by 6" to give room to walk between the legs and the swings. All in all it was a great project that only took two dedicated weekends. My wife still has to paint the swings though.
Wed, 05/27/2015 - 07:42
How did you attach the 6x6's to the top? Is it a miter cut at 45 degrees and then put together with the lag bolts. I'm kinda confused. Thanks.
Wed, 05/27/2015 - 22:38
It sounds and looks like the top 6x6s are mitered and sit on top of the end of the vertical posts. I'd say at least one lag bolt each way to hold the mitered corner together and then at least one in each piece down into the vertical to hold it in place.
Sun, 07/19/2015 - 16:26
I have looked at several versions including the hexagon pergola's, but this is exactly what we want. Do you have plans that you can email me? [email protected]
Sun, 04/19/2020 - 12:33
If you recurved plans can you please send to me?
[email protected]
Sun, 04/19/2020 - 12:33
If you recurved plans can you please send to me?
[email protected]
Wed, 04/29/2020 - 16:18
I was looking for material list and plans if you have any please send to [email protected] thanks
Mon, 04/27/2020 - 10:24
WOW, LOVE!!! This is simply gorgeous! What a warm and welcoming addition to your yard. And thanks for sharing your method of finding level for your posts on your sloped yard. I absolutely love it!
Thu, 10/22/2020 - 06:53
Love this, can you please email me the plans @ [email protected]
Fri, 03/26/2021 - 05:58
This is beautiful. Would love to see the plans for this. How small can it be made?
Great for a small flock of 5 or less.
Created the stand for the raised planter using 2X2 assembled using dowels. Painted the stand mixing black with a bit of white to simulate metal. The actually plastic window box fits within a wood open box with mitered corners fir clean log. Bottom of the stand provides a shelf using (9) 2X2s with a dado placed on either end to fit on the runners of the stand.
Mon, 05/01/2023 - 08:24
It looks super high quality, love your take! Thanks for sharing.
Comments
Ana White Admin
Mon, 06/06/2022 - 14:04
Fantastic idea!
This is so smart and looks great too, thank you for sharing!
RachellePS8
Mon, 02/27/2023 - 20:10
This is such a great idea!
This is such a great idea!