Community Brag Posts

With a little help from the kids, we were able to get it built in about 4 hours!

I really enjoyed this project. Really happy with how it turned out! I ended up using a thin flexible panel board in a nickelboard pattern for the back to help make it lighter. Easier to transport. 

Shortened the design to fit the spot and used a slab of white oak I had laying around.

Starting a new garden in a new yard but with limited space this vertical planter was a must.

5 boxes Tiered up 2x6 legs. Changes to the plans Ana White provided include :I added mitered edges to the fronts and backs of each individual box to match the over angle of the legs, slimmed down the box sides to tidy up the look, routed the edges of the legs to sharpen it up and painted and stained/finished to bring the whole project together. 

Modified the size to be 42" (w) x 16" (d) x 19" (h). Used radiator covering grate for door inserts and left shelves open for horizontal component storage.

This was a quick, easy project. I needed a way for the dogs to easily get on the bed and I also needed a place to store their toys. This was a great solution to both problems. I made it a few inches loger and added carpet to make it easier for them to use. I also cut arches out of the bottom back to give them easy access to their toys.

Recycled 6 panel window frame

I used the basic design principles from Ana's site but decided to use 3.5x6.5 round fence posts (purchased at my local Tractor Supply Company) for a different look plus they are a little cheaper than 4x4 posts. I also used pressure treated 2x4s for some added strength and perhaps longer durability. I used Ana's cedar fence pickets idea for my roof (these pickets are used as walls on one of the other shed plans on this site). I didn't need a very robust roof as my firewood shed sits underneath the deck which provides a lot of protection from the rain. I attached the structure using 3 inch deck screws and the roof with 1.5 inch deck screws (nails would have been more than adequate for the roof but I had the screws on hand).

I did run into some problems due to my design changes. Most of my issues involved attempting to square up the round posts which are much closer in shape to a jagged stick than dimension lumber such as a 4x4 post. If I had to do it over again I would not have used the round posts. Constant tweaks and adjustments to the posts significantly delayed my build time and frustrated me at times. I was just barely able to wedge my woodshed in between the 2 deck posts which actually came in handy as I was able to secure the shed to the deck posts with 3 inch screws...making the shed very solid! The final issue I discovered after loading up my wood shed. The 2x4s at the bottom of the structure began to sag. I fixed this by using my floor jack to raise them up and placed 8 inch tall 4x4s underneath (2 in the front and 2 in the back).

Overall I'm happy with the way it turned out and I really love all the plans on this site...GREAT ideas!!

I used 4x4 post for the base.

I built this using the Farmhouse Table plans, and we're thrilled with the results. My modifications included making the table longer and narrower to fit our dining room, and building it from some fantastic white oak from a local lumberyard called Boards & Beams in Fairfield, NJ. I used 5/4" thick boards of varying widths for the top, and created deeper overhangs at the ends by making the breadboard ends 10" deep. Unlike a more rustic version using pine, the lumber was extremely expensive, and the oak makes an already heavy table even heavier. Still, it is orders of magnitude less expensive than purchasing a custom table like this, and I only needed to "ship it" from my garage. 

My idea was to match, as closely as my skills would allow, the antique buffet in the photo next to the table. Or at least to build something that would look good next to the buffet. My prior woodworking experience is limited to DIY carpentry and building plywood shelves and radiator covers. I am not a "mortise and tenon" woodworker (although I'd like to learn). The plans are excellent because this was the first "real" furniture I've ever attempted, and it is literally as solid as if it were carved from a single piece of wood. I rented a 12" compound miter saw from Home Depot to make most of the cuts in one day, which worked out extremely well. The visible screw holes I plugged with oak dowls. 

If you decide to build this (or anything) from a hardwood, here are a couple mistakes I made early on that you don't want to repeat. First, EVERY screw into every piece needs a pilot hole. If you have even the slightest thought that your screw is about to strip or break, it is. Second, higher-quality wood is often cut larger than what you find in a big box store. A 2 x 4, which might be 1.5 x 3.5 from Home Depot, can be 1.75 x 3.75. This really matters a lot, and so you have to measure your actual wood and re-calculate every measurement accordingly. The upsides, for me, included fewer warped pieces, less splintering, and greater ease of sanding and finishing.

Thank you very much for posting these plans and for your excellent "how-to" on cutting out the notches. 

I built this table for a friend a few weekends ago. The reclaimed top turned out amazing!

My wife had decided we need to do something special for our great niece's. .Oh that I should. Lol..It was a great experience, and I would do it again. .

Angled leg nightstand.  Legs made from 4 by 4's and angled at 5 degrees.

Finished in  Varathane Worn Navy and two coats of Satin Protector