Community Brag Posts

I used your frame idea to install a hidden wall safe for valuables and firearms.

So I love Restoration Hardware but think their prices are exploitative. I found a picture of a couch I really like from there. Turns out it was discontinued so I looked on Ebay and found cushions for it and I just tried to copy the picture as best I could. I considered trying to learn about bending wood for the arms but that would have significantly delayed the process so I just took a 2x6 and cut the curves with a band saw. It worked.

Simply inspired by Ana's Garage Shelving project using 2 By 4s. Thank you Ana. Below are my project details.

1. Shelving Height =  8 Ft, Width = 12 Ft, Depth = 13 inches (Each shelve having 3 pieces of 2 by 4s). All 8 Ft and 12 Ft lumber available in this standard size.  Only cutting required (done at Home Depot) was for the 13 inch pieces to build the shelving legs (which in Ana's original plan is 17 inches, and has 4 pieces of 2 by 4s).  Able to carry all lumber (multiple trips) in minivan after folding seats.

2. Garage Floor was a bit uneven - so I used Shims (plastic) as suggested by HomeDepot associate.

3. To secure the shelves from the top of the wall, I used corner L brackets, 3 inch by 3 inch.  I used 1-1/2 inch screws to mount the bracket on the 2 by 4s, and then to mount the other side of the bracket to wall studs, I used the 2-1/2 inch screws (which I used throughout the project as Ana suggested). I mounted two brackets sideways, and one on the top (because the stud was around the corner).   Used a thin nail to find the stud as studfinder results were not reliable

4. After making shelving legs, we made them stand next to the wall, and then mounted the shelves (3 pcs each on each shelve) and then put screws.  My wife, her uncle, aunt, and cousin helped to mount finally, and it was great fun.

Made this from a great Ana White plan Modified it to fit a small sink that will drain to a water bucket underneath it.

Thanks to Ana White and fsmumford, I was inspired to create a castle bed for my princess. It was a lot of hard work but it paid off seeing her going up the stairs and down the slide a million times the 1st day!

My husband and I made this completely fabulous DIY playstand for my niece's birthday. It turned out fantastic. Ana's plans were straightforward and easy to follow. The most difficult part was making the buntings, but even those turned out fine. The only recommendations that I have beyond what is in Ana's post are use a good piece of plywood since it isn't easy to sand, and to put the extra velcro for holding back the theater curtains on the back. My cost is a little higher than the one on the original plans, but I also factored in the cost of the different fabrics, velcro, etc.

You can read more about it on my blog.

I used red mahogany 225 minimax stain along with 3 coats of diamond wood finish I gave it a very quick sanding with 600 grit sand paper right before the last coat of the diamond finish and it came out silky smooth and the color really pops. I am just a beginner and I thought this project was gonna be quick and easy because I'm used to having to plain all my wood and get it all ready before putting it together I slapped this together in no time but finishing it without a spray gun after it was all together was a very lengthy process.

This was a quick and easy project we made with all the scrap wood in the garage. It went together in a few hours, and made a great gift for one of my daughter's friends. It was so much cuter than any of the American Girl doll beds at the store, and WAY cheaper, too.

This was our first family project. My husband has built a lot of things, but I've been so inspired I wanted to start building things too! Our two older kids were involved as much as possible (hence the very orange color) and we had a lot of fun. I definitely need some practice cutting straight lines haha, but practice makes perfect! My kids love to read and it is eye-catching as it is functional!

Queen headboard. Natural finish.

This is a poplar (yellow tulip) chifferobe I purchased off of Craigslist for $40. I included some before and after photos. It was in sad shape. Much of the veneer was broken or coming off. My wife wanted me to add shelves inside. I began stripping off the old finish using liquid stripped and by sanding. I removed the old veneer by using a very hot steam iron and a putty knife. I ordered up the new veneer from veneersupplies.com and new hardware from Kennedy Hardware.

I built the new shelves using 1/2" poplar. I then began putting on the new veneer. I used 22 mil. paperback veneer and contact cement. If you have never replaced veneer spend $10 and get a veneer cutter and another $10 and purchase a scraper. They make the job much easier.

I then began applying the stain which is Minwax Aged Oak gel stain. I had a challenge with trying to match the stain. The old veneer was tough to match the stain with the new veneer. Father time adds his patina so I had to darken the stain. I used Minwax Jacobean stain. I think I got it too dark but since it is completed I like the contrast. I went ahead and purchased some 1/2" rope trim (poplar) and a poplar applique to add to the door. Since the mirror was broken I decided to go ahead and fabricate new back splashes for the chifferobe. I found these on Ebay. A gentleman had bought out these from an out of business pool table company. They are poplar and once I cut them down they really seemed to match. I will use the mirror frame for a later project to make a photo frame.

My wife and I had wanted to put this into our bedroom for extra storage. We didn't realize that we couldn't get it into the bedroom due to a narrow hallway. It ended up in the kitchen/dining room as a buffet. The funny thing was that it looks like it belongs there now.

The whole project cost me around $150 and took approximately 40 hours to complete.

Our first plan from Ana White. It was really easy to follow and this was a fun project to do with the children. We used pine wood because it was cheaper than cedar, so we will try to not put them directly under the rain.

We were able to make two birdhouses in removing .25 inch in one birdhouse. We used wood we already had for the third one.

We let the children added some details to the birdhouses. Because of the birds we want to attract here, one hole is 1.25 inch and the other two are 1.5 inch.

If you're looking for an easy built that will INSTANTLY add more seating for your outdoor space, look no further! This was such an easy build and is one of my favorites so far. All it took was 2X4 boards, which are dirt cheap. 

www.withlovefromgablog.blogspot.com

Made from 2 pallets, 2 x 6 x 8, leftover trim from my house, wood branch from my backyard. Attached shelf with pocket holes.

Accents:
-Handpainted lettering; painted prior to glazing entire piece
-Finials made from 4.25 inch spray painted and glazed clay pots and saucers coated with Valspar clear finish and attached together with epoxy; buttons attached to pots with E6000 adhesive
-Buttons attached mostly with small screws; a few with holes too small for screws were attached with epoxy
-Plastic flowers made from mayo and water bottles and lids; sanded, primed, spray painted, coated with Valspar clear coating; attached with screws
-Faucet knobs sanded, spray painted, glazed and attached with screws
-Plumbing pipe filled with plumber epoxy puttty; insert screw into putty before it hardened, then screwed into wood
-Gardening tool hooks made from pant wire hangers with a few beads attached; wire simply wrapped around tree branch

Not sure that I will use pallet wood again since difficult to pull apart pallets, uneven and some split boards could not be used, and required tons of sanding for those boards that could be used. I think I paid more for orbital sanding pads than the cost of buying new wood. Will use pallet wood for other non-furniture projects not requiring a perfect finish.

I combined the Reclaimed-Wood Headboard with the Hailey Platform Bed patterns, both found here on Ana's website to make my queen-sized bed. Alterations to the general instructions include: A 1x6 was sandwiched into the lower portion of the headboard to create the head of the bed platform (same as the panel pieces of the headboard). Another 1x6 was fastened from the back, the same as the other trim pieces. 4 holes for the light wires were chiseled out of the top trim, then a 2x6 was fastened across the top of the headboard to allow more room for the mounting of the lights. (these last 2 pieces flush to the back of the headboard instead of centered.) So the project was not too top-heavy I added a 2x6 center leg to the headboard. For even more stability I added a 4 x 4 leg to the center support of the bed portion. The lights are LED (Ikea) and the wires are fastened to the back of the headboard to keep them safe from pets, etc. The corners of the platform bed are held together with screwed-in knock-down hardware (Lee-Valley). Dis-assembly was important to me, so the bed could be moved from the garage to the house! I am not an experienced wood worker by any means, nor am I particularly fast. The plans I downloaded from this site were very detailed. The project was both fun and full-filling!