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Butcher Block Kitchen Island

This is a modified butcher block kitchen island built from ana white's plan. Instead of using doug fir (2x4) material for the top, I used hard maple to build an edge grain butcher block top that if knife friendly and food safe. I also altered the dimensions to fit my space.

Built from Plan(s)
Build Michaela's Kitchen Island
Estimated Time Investment
Week Long Project (20 Hours or More)
Finish Used
Mineral oil was used for the butcher block top. The paint is kendall grey by behr and early American stain by minwax for the shelves.
Recommended Skill Level
Advanced

Comments

jbuilder712

Wed, 06/04/2014 - 08:49

Wow, what a stunning piece! That looks like it'd fit my space more than the original plans. Would you mind posting your dimensions and cut list? Thanks!

A-Frame Chicken Coop

We took Ana's original coop plans and diva'd it up a bit to suit our needs and our climate. We added a pop door and decided to split the roof panels into four, three of which open up. We put the hinges on the top of the roof panels so we could easily prop them open. We also added a brace across the bottom of our ladder for support. Since we added a door I believe our ladder is a bit more steep than in the original plans.

Because we put our hinges on top we added lattice strips inside on the top of the door panels that go just under the 2x4 of the roof peak to keep the rain out. We also used a roof cap for the same reason. We went back and added silicone to the strategic places to prevent water leaking into the nesting box while also being careful not to affect the necessary ventilation.

We used OSB for our roof panels instead of T111 because it's what we had on hand and also because we were going to be painting it.

Finally I added handles to each of the hinged panels to make opening easy. And cute!

Blog Link
Barbie Dream House Chicken Coop
Built from Plan(s)
A Frame Chicken Coop Tractor
Estimated Time Investment
Weekend Project (10-20 Hours)
Finish Used
I used a no VOC exterior paint from Valspar (green) that I found in the mistinted section at Lowe's. The pink (ladder) is Very Berry by Valspar and is not an exterior paint.
Recommended Skill Level
Intermediate

Comments

anniejw17

Wed, 02/27/2013 - 11:11

Love your coop! It's so cute! I need to find a weather vane. We ended up adding a roof cap of sorts - just aluminum flashing really. It does still leak in the nest box, though, which just encourages me to change out the bedding for fresh straw, which is a good thing I guess!

Southern Revivals

Wed, 02/27/2013 - 13:24

Yes mine leaked, too. We added the roof cap and some silicone but that still didn't stop it. So I finally went in and added some screen molding behind the panels in the nesting box. It still isn't quite "leak proof" but it is better. I will share if I figure out how to make it leak proof! Thank You!

billd333

Mon, 01/13/2014 - 09:45

These were great plans, thanks for sharing!
I'm new to having chickens so since it's cold now is Massachusetts I'm holding off on getting a couple of hens. The 2 main questions I have are where did you end up mounting the roost? And where did you end up putting the nesting box? I only put a floor on half so was thinking the roost board could be suspended above the ground on the open side. That leaves the 1/2 floor to hold the nest box?? Please any comments on the roost, nest box, watering and feeding systems are welcome.
thx..Bill

Southern Revivals

Mon, 01/13/2014 - 10:03

Hi Bill,

I am actually in the process of writing another blog post about this coop. I have gotten so many questions about the modifications we did and have lived with it long enough to know what I would have done differently. You doing the 1/2 is great and is one of the things I would do differently if we had it to do over again.

I will post an update here as soon as that post is live. In the meantime, feel free to contact me directly at Jamie @ Southern Revivals.com

Thanks!
Jamie

Kitty Outhouse

My first Ana White project. Built Ana’s awesome small cedar shed as an outhouse for our many cats. The have access to it from inside the house. Great way to keep litter boxes and the mess out of the house. It is stand alone, and attached to the house, in front of a bedroom window. There are two ‘entrances’ as well as two, one-way, escape hatches, if a cat in the outhouse is interrupted by another cat (I.e. a male cat comes in and the female feels trapped) they can exit to the outside (one way so no critters can come inside!). Ana has easy to build plans, great site! I plan on making the square table just posted today for my newly refurbished deck. Keep in mind, my estimated costs and time reflect a LOT of additional features on the inside. The shed itself, very easy, simple, inexpensive. Very little waste with Ana’s projects as well.

Built from Plan(s)
Small Cedar Shed
Estimated Cost
$500
Estimated Time Investment
Week Long Project (20 Hours or More)
Finish Used
No finish, at least not yet.
Recommended Skill Level
Intermediate

Comments

Pergola

Pergola is 10x12 made of all cedar except posts.  Posts were 6x6 brown wood then covered in 1x6 cedar. Slats on top were attached using L brackets. Stained the same year.

Estimated Time Investment
Week Long Project (20 Hours or More)
Finish Used
Cabot in Natural finish
Recommended Skill Level
Intermediate

Four station desk (PB inspired)

Submitted by monty742 on Sun, 03/15/2015 - 08:58

I really liked the PB mega desk, but I didn't want to spend $1600 on it.  After seeing someone's post here (a couple years ago...) asking for plans on that desk, I decided to do it myself.  I took these two plans and made 4 base units.  They are 18" square at the top and 34" tall.  I used 2 IKEA table tops connected underneath for the top, to make a total height of 36" - counter stool height.  I constructed them a little differently than the plans, but no matter how you make them, the idea is the same.  The plan is to take them apart and make 2 desks once everyone is too old and cool to do homework/artwork together.

Built from Plan(s)
Modular Office - Counter Height Desk Base
Estimated Cost
$500
Estimated Time Investment
Week Long Project (20 Hours or More)
Finish Used
Kitchen and Bath finish paint (2 coats) - it's a little shinier than eggshell (I only used it because I had 2 or 3 gallons extra at home :) then 2 coats acrylic top coat matte finish.
Recommended Skill Level
Intermediate

Comments

monty742

Sat, 08/15/2015 - 04:33

Just seeing your comment...sorry for the delay!  I got the stools and the light fixture at a Ballard Backroom (outlet) store near me.  3 of the stools ended up being about $40 each with the sale they had at the time, and the 4th was $60? - bought at a later time than the first 3.

AlisaH

Wed, 11/04/2015 - 07:40

How did you connect the table tops from the bottom so that the tables were secure together? I'm curious what's the best way to do this. Since two of the four seats will be where the seam is, I want to make sure I secure it properly so it's not wobbly. Thanks so much.

 

monty742

Sat, 01/09/2016 - 05:06

I'm just seeing these latest comments for the first time, so you may have long finished this project already!  The tops were surprisingly sturdy but I did reinforce them.  I placed the tops on the floor upside down and screwed some metal brackets (about 12" long each) across the joint in four places.  I just screwed them in through holes already in the brackets.  This wasn't the most stable because those tops are particle board and don't hold screws very well...  But since it was already pretty sturdy, I figured it would do.  It has been fine, even with standing on the top (kids who get up there and me hanging the light fixture above).

Once the tops were joined, I placed the bases so there was about a 1" overhang on the top.  To hold the top in place, I used small pieces of wood screwed to the underside of the top at the inside corner to act as a placement stop.  The top is pretty big and heavy even though they are IKEA tops, so they don't have a tendency to move or slide at all anyway.  I'm going to try to figure out how to post another picture of the braces and corner stops...we'll see if I can do it!  Let me know if you have any more questions...again, sorry I didn't see this in a more timely manner!

Pmprdwife

Sat, 01/02/2016 - 05:55

Is the photo above the Pottery Barn version or your product result?  I'm trying to figure out the dimensions for the drawer and shelf configurations.  Thanks!  BTW, I'm totally addicted to your style and personality...my husband loves the productivity inspiration I've received. :-)

 

monty742

Sat, 01/09/2016 - 10:17

Hi!

I'm glad you like the desk!  The one in the picture is the one I built, not the pottery barn one!  My dimensions were a good bit different than the PB desk - square bases instead of rectangular and counter stool height instead of desk/table height.  So, I have no idea if I have my plans for this anymore, so I went and measured it again for you!  

So each base is 18" x 18" square and 34" high so that with the 2" top the total height is 36".

 

Each base was made of oak plywood that made with 3 sides, a top and a bottom.  All edges were rabbit joints (3/8" deep in thickness of boards and probably 3/8" wide - not 100% on width of rabbits).  It's kind of a pain to do rabbit joints if you don't have a dado blade for your table saw, so you could use pocket hole screws instead.  I glued and nailed these joints with a finish nailer, I believe.  

I figured a diagram with measurements would be easier than trying to write descriptions...so I'm adding another pic with the dimensions outlined.  Drawing is NOT to scale, so sorry about that!  I really need to learn to use SketchUp.  Let me know if you have any questions!  

Monty742

monty742

Sat, 01/09/2016 - 07:57

Hi!

I'm glad you like the desk!  The one in the picture is the one I built, not the pottery barn one!  My dimensions were a good bit different than the PB desk - square bases instead of rectangular and counter stool height instead of desk/table height.  So, I have no idea if I have my plans for this anymore, so I went and measured it again for you!  

So each base is 18" x 18" square and 34" high so that with the 2" top the total height is 36".

 

Each base was made of oak plywood that made with 3 sides, a top and a bottom.  All edges were rabbit joints (3/8" deep in thickness of boards and probably 3/8" wide - not 100% on width of rabbits).  It's kind of a pain to do rabbit joints if you don't have a dado blade for your table saw, so you could use pocket hole screws instead.  I glued and nailed these joints with a finish nailer, I believe.  

I figured a diagram with measurements would be easier than trying to write descriptions...so I'm adding another pic with the dimensions outlined.  Drawing is NOT to scale, so sorry about that!  I really need to learn to use SketchUp.  Let me know if you have any questions!  

monty742

Thu, 07/28/2016 - 14:13

No you can't buy them from Ikea.  I bought the table tops from Ikea, but I built the bases.  The dimensions for the bases are in one of the additional pictures with the post if you want to see them!

treverandamber

Mon, 10/10/2016 - 07:41

What are the total dimensions of the table top? Thinking of building something like this, but want to make sure it will fit in my space.

Simgre81

Thu, 12/28/2017 - 07:00

Are these just slide in drawers, or did you use some sort of hardware to have them slide in and out?

Tool Caddy

Submitted by docbromo on Thu, 01/20/2022 - 15:21

I repurpose furniture as a hobby and I got tired of having my tools hanging on a wall on the other side of the garage so I bult this rolling tool caddy. It is made out of 3/4" plywood, a couple of 2x4's and some heavy-duty casters. I built one about 3 years ago and realized that there were some things I wanted to do differently so I sold it and bult this one. My wife gave me a subscription to SketchUp and I had fun drawing it up and tweaking it. I left an over hang of 3" on both sides so I could store my clamps. I also attached an electrical cord reel on the right side and reversed the ends so the male end can plug into the wall and I can roll the unit across the room allowing me to be able to charge my batteries. The back side has a 44 drawer storage organizer and also a few shelves for additional tools like a router and a multi-tool. I'm not nearly the craftsman many of you are and I'm sure you could do a much better job. I didn't build it to look pretty but to be functional and it works for me.

Comments

Jayp413

Fri, 01/21/2022 - 09:16

I really like this idea. I have my tools hung up neat all around the garage, but I keep walking back and forth for tools and batteries. It would be great to roll this over to a project and have everything you need right there. Nice work. I will modify one for my needs.

BigMacQue

Fri, 01/21/2022 - 10:06

there are some very thoughtful features on this, notably the wings at the top and the bottom for clamps and extra tools and the different shelf heights. Well done! I'm going to build one just like it and a power strip for battery storage.

Grill table with stainless steel top

Submitted by krochelle on Tue, 08/20/2013 - 08:00

I made this table to go next to an outdoor grill to be used as a food prep area or just a surface for holding ingredients (instead of using the deck railing!). The top is stainless steel which fits tightly over 2 3/4" pieces of plywood laminated together. The bar/handle in front is made out of galvanized pipe. All wood was treated.

Legs - 4x4 posts
Bottom shelf - 1x6's
Sides - 1x4's
Top - 2 pieces of 3/4" plywood laminated together with a stainless steel top (custom fit) over top
Towel bar - galvanized pipe (cut and threaded to size at Lowe's), floor flanges and 90 degree elbows

Estimated Cost
$120
Estimated Time Investment
Day Project (6-9 Hours)
Finish Used
I used Kona stain but since it was over treated wood the stain did not take as dark as it should have. I will have to restain this piece after it has completely dried out.
Recommended Skill Level
Intermediate

Comments

spiceylg

Tue, 08/20/2013 - 09:07

Love this. Where did you get the stainless steel top? Did you have to special order to fit?

krochelle

Thu, 05/15/2014 - 10:33

Sorry about the late reply! Yes, I just gave my dimensions to a local steel supplier and they made the top. I think I have about $40 into the stainless. They didn't weld the corners but I've never had an issue with them.

krochelle

Thu, 05/15/2014 - 10:46

No...I didn't have any plans when I built it but it's a very simple concept. I chose to use all treated wood since I knew it would be sitting outside unprotected. However, my 4x4 posts weren't square so this caused a lot of problems and everything was built to fit. I believe I just used 4x4's, 1X6s (for the bottom shelf) and 1x4s for the sides (top and bottom). For the top, I just laminated 2 pieces of 3/4" plywood together to bulk it up and then had the stainless top built to fit. It fit perfectly so I didn't glue it to the plywood. This makes it easy to remove and clean, if necessary. For the galvanized pipe (towel bar), I bought it at Lowe's and had them cut/thread it to fit my dimensions.

Farmhouse Table with Extensions

This was my first build and I learned A LOT and watched A LOT of youtube diy videos. The main take-away from this project is not to build in the freezing cold if the finished project is for inside. I finished this project in below freezing temperatures and I noticed that the wood expanded (increasing slightly the gap between the finished boards on the top) when it was brought inside.

I built this from the original farmhouse table plans with no kreg jig although I did buy and use a pocket kreg jig to make the extensions. The main modifications were using 4x4s such as were used in the Country Living magazine spread that inspired this build and also making modifications to allow the addition of 15" extensions at each end of the table's bread boards.

My first challenge was figuring out how to build with the 4x4 legs instead of the 2 2x4s screwed together. In order to accomplish this i had to use a chisel to create the corner lip that the table top frame would sit on. I added photos of this so I hope it will help someone. Chiseling these 4 corners (one on each post) only took an hour or two and was so worth it for the look of the 4x4s. Just measure carefully and work carefully with a sharp chisel. I actually removed half the wood by sawing off the corner at a 45 degree angle. Remember when cutting your boards for the table ends that a 4x4 has different dimensions than 2 2x4s screwed together. Compensate for this in your cuts.

Another challenge was hiding the screws on the table legs and table top. I was leaving the finish natural so didn't want to use wood fill. I accomplished this by getting a countersink bit and then buying wooden dowels the same diameter. For these screw holes, after finishing screwing, I put a dab of wood glue in the countersink hole, inserted the dowel as far as it would go, used a fine hand saw to cut off the dowel flush with the table and then used a hammer to make sure the dowel was in tight and flush.

I had trouble figuring out how to attach the table top frame to the table legs with the long screws from the plans so I included a picture of this step. Its really easy but I was not able to use three screws as the plan calls for. I used two instead and it has been very solid. I used the long screws as proscribed.

Finally, I wanted to build extensions (2 2x8 boards kreg jigged together) so I could increase seating up to a max. of 12 persons, so I needed to cut out 2x2 gaps on the table ends. I also included a picture of these in place. To make room for the 2 2x2s that extend under the bread boards and table top to brace the extensions, I left out one of the 2x2 cross beams at each end of the underside of the table (the boards that the table top boards screw into).

I hope this is helpful to you!

Built from Plan(s)
Farmhouse Table - No Pocket Holes Plan
Estimated Cost
$250
Estimated Time Investment
Week Long Project (20 Hours or More)
Finish Used
Vinegar and Steel Wool Solution (soak steel wool for 24 hours in vinegar and be sure to test on a sample) to "age" the wood. Tung oil over this sealed the stain/wood. over this I applied a wax finish. First I used Briwax Liming Wax to enhance the gray finish and leave a slight white wash patina. This finish was enhanced because I had steel brushed with the grain to remove some soft wood so the liming wax would enhance the grain. I finished the project with clear briwax. We have been using this as our everyday table since February and there are no stains or problems with this finish.
Recommended Skill Level
Starter Project

Comments

dyemond47

Mon, 02/10/2014 - 11:55

Great job on the table! I love...I had visions of this table before I saw it. I wanted to use the 4x4's for the legs as well, the same finish. I am concerned now about the 4x4's because I am an amateur and I think that may throw too many wrenches into my plan. I started with the bench, finished in 3 hours I have patted myself on the back. Plotting on a Kreg jig right now.

epweigel92

Sun, 07/24/2016 - 09:57

Love the look of this table! Just to make sure I'm following correctly, the extensions are ones you can add and remove, not fixed? Do you have a pic of how they slide in or out?

Outdoor Sectional

Submitted by Anonymous (not verified) on Fri, 04/28/2023 - 05:24

This was my seventh outdoor couch but my first sectional. My very first couches were all inspired by Ana White's plans and I have gotten so much better with my skills that I building other things as well. Thanks Ana for all your inspiration!

Built from Plan(s)
One Arm 2x4 Outdoor Sofa - Sectional Piece
2x4 Outdoor Sofa

Comments

Modern Patio Chairs/Love Sear

Submitted by Anonymous (not verified) on Sun, 09/25/2022 - 15:57

Super easy and fun project! We altered the original plans to build a loveseat and had zero issues. We did add some extra support below.
I did not find 25”x25” cushions within our price range so I settled for 25”x22.5” and they work but ultimately 25x25 works best.

Built from Plan(s)
Essential Wood Outdoor Chair Frame for Deep Seat Cushion
2x4 Outdoor Side Table

King size Farmhouse Bed

Submitted by Anonymous (not verified) on Sun, 04/19/2020 - 15:59

This is a plan that My 16 year old son chose to do for a project to fulfill a goal to learn some woodworking skills during our unexpected downtime from School.
Mom is thrilled with the new space.
He adjusted different sizes based on what lumber we already had. He used 1x7’s and routed a 45deg on the edges to give the tongue and groove look. Posts are 4x5 and top railing is 2x7.

Built from Plan(s)
Farmhouse Bed - Standard King Size
Estimated Cost
$40 in paint and supplies. Wood was free from a friend.
Estimated Time Investment
Weekend Project (10-20 Hours)
Finish Used
Valspar Furniture Enamel.
Color - Web Grey
Recommended Skill Level
Beginner

Comments

She Shed - Guest Room, Craft Room, Office

Submitted by Chriss45 on Tue, 01/23/2018 - 08:18

I needed an office and also a guest room so i built a she shed and all the furniture.

Built from Plan(s)
PLANS: A Murphy Bed YOU Can Build, and Afford to Build
Recommended Skill Level
Advanced

Comments

junesummer21

Thu, 01/25/2018 - 06:27

I love your murphy bed idea and would love to have plans for it. I too am looking for a guest bedroom and craft area and I know this would work in my space.

Chriss45

Mon, 02/05/2018 - 16:20

I didnt really have a plan when I was building my Murphy bed, I can do a sketchup plan for you if you would like. I used boat chair swivels instead of hinges and there is a YouTube video on how to do this. 

Chris

Nurserene62

Thu, 06/24/2021 - 23:11

Hi Chris! I would love to have a copy of the sketch up of this. I have a small she shed/guest cottage I would live to duplicate this in. Thanks in advance.

cgself12

Mon, 11/08/2021 - 14:18

Hi Chris!
I know I'm coming late to this party but I just found your shed and I adore it. You did an amazing job and I cannot express how impressed I am! I would also like a sketchup plan of both the murphy bed and the adjoining side cabinets. Great job!

Kim Daigle

Thu, 06/06/2019 - 10:59

I absolutely love everything about this she shed!!  I would be interested in a sketch up of the murphy bed as well as the cabinets next to it.  I would at least like to know what the dimensions of it all is.  You did an amazing job!  It's so beautiful!

mcocooper11

Tue, 06/25/2019 - 15:14

Me too!! I built a horizontal Murphy bed so I have that part done but I would like to see the plans for the cabinets on either side with the pull out desk!

so very cute!

lawn and garden shed

Submitted by brittanyj on Wed, 08/19/2015 - 13:17

Needed a shed to store bikes and mowers, etc, so I'd have more room in the woodshop : )  I made a lot of modifications to the plan to fit my space and make it much larger.  The completed size is 7 foot tall at the peak, 6 feet deep and 5.5 feet wide.  I made it as a 3 sided shed, using the wall as the 4th to save on cost, increase air flow, and make the exterior house wall accessible.  I also made an egress in the back of the shed in order to get behind the shed if needed. 

Instead of roofing shingles, I opted for ribbed metal sheets and one clear sheet in the middle to make a skylight, so there would be light in the shed.  This is my favorite part of the project.  It was a huge pain to attach the roofing from a ladder with very limited access, but it looks great and I love the light coming in.  We have very little rain in CA, so I'll have to wait until winter/rainy season in order to test out its waterproofing. 

Since the shed sits between the house and the neighbors block wall fence, and I wanted to use as much of the space as I could, I decided to design the shed to have the side wall against the house rather than the back wall, as shown in the plan.  This took a large amount of modifications, but with careful planning and measuring, it can be done.  This also meant blocking off access to behind the shed, so I cut an egress in the back wall and added hinges so you can lift the back cut out panel, and rest it on a stop block attached to the fence behind it in order to have access.  That's what woodworking is about- problem solving.  Love it. 

As you can see by the full shed picture, it fits a large amount of stuff- 2 adult bikes, mower, edger, trimmer, chainsaw, hedge trimmer, garden tools, shovels, etc, with plenty of room for more.  I now have a free corner in my garage that I've already filled with a DIY rolling workbench and more pegboard space for tool hanging.  Woodshop increased space= happy Brittany. 

I should also mention that building the frame and adding the pickets was quite a quick and easy job.  The hardest and most time consuming part was the roof (I didn't have metal cutting tools), rolling each very heavy wall to the site (I was alone) and the previous 2 weeks in which I built the paver patio the shed sits on.  Hard work, but worth it.  I love it!

Built from Plan(s)
Small Cedar Shed
Estimated Cost
$280
Estimated Time Investment
Week Long Project (20 Hours or More)
Recommended Skill Level
Intermediate

Comments

brittanyj

Mon, 01/25/2021 - 13:15

It has been incredibly useful for storing! One thing about the skylight- Over time the sun has warped it and there is now a hole and crack there. So I wouldn't plan on the clear roofing being a long term solution- I will be replacing it with either thicker clear roofing or 2 layers.

Chicken Coop

Submitted by Anonymous (not verified) on Sun, 07/10/2022 - 12:26

Great for a small flock of 5 or less.  

Blog Link
Fruit of Refuge
Built from Plan(s)
Updated A Frame Chicken Coop Plans

Comments

Seasonal And Holiday
Spring
Summer

Queen Murphy Bed

Submitted by Jenga on Sun, 12/06/2015 - 12:59

Not too bad of a project but had to a good bit of guess work so I could changed the plans for a queen size bed and flip in on its side.

Built from Plan(s)
PLANS: A Murphy Bed YOU Can Build, and Afford to Build
Estimated Cost
$200 if you already have the bed
Estimated Time Investment
Week Long Project (20 Hours or More)
Finish Used
White Paint and laminate flooring left over from the floor.
Recommended Skill Level
Beginner

Comments

Arilie

Sun, 05/29/2016 - 18:50

Good evening!

I am new at wood working, and would be very interrested in knowing the different measurements you changed to get from a twin to queen murphy bed. If it is posted on this page, I tried but couldn't find it. Thank you for your help. Have a good day.

Marie-Julie

Outdoor end tables

I made these two Ana White outdoor end tables for my patio. Next up will be the matching coffee table

Blog Link
https://www.ana-white.com/woodworking-projects/2x4-outdoor-side-table
Built from Plan(s)
2x4 Outdoor Side Table

Comments

Chartreuse Moving Double Pull Out Trash Can

Submitted by pjfessier on Thu, 05/02/2019 - 17:25

I replaced all of the drawers in our 1960's kitchen with custom built new drawers that have full extension slides.  I can't afford a complete remodel, but the new drawers allow the kitchen to function much better. The old drawers had wood slides that would allow you to pull them out about 2/3 of the way. Any more than that and the whole drawer would slide out and go crashing to the floor. 

I had wanted to build a cabinet like this, but I couldn't figure out how to pull it off. I'm an amateur with basic tools working out of my garage. I found Ana's plan and combined it with my experience making drawers to make this cabinet. I use Blum soft close slides and the cabinet is working great so far. 

The butcher block top is left over from countertops I put in the kitchen. The project basically started with me wanting to put that last bit to good use. It's 1 1/2 in thick acacia. I wish I'd have gone for maple but the acacia is okay. 

I don't know if you can see it in the photo, but it has locking casters on the feet so that we can move it around when we need to clean the kitchen floor, but it doesn't move when you pull on the drawer. I guess it can also double as a little island when we have dinner parties. 

Built from Plan(s)
Small Kitchen Island with Slide Out Double Trash Cans
Estimated Cost
$100.00 I'm really not sure. The slides and paint were pretty expensive. Of course I didn't use all the paint so if something else needs to be chartreuse I have more. The wood was poplar and some high quality plywood. It's 3/4 ply on the slides but only 1/4 on the back. The drawer is made with left over baltic birch 1/2 in ply that I had left over from my other drawer projects. I guess you could consider the varnish and nail free too as I already had those. Building the drawer is really a whole separate project that takes as long as the cabinet. And the Shaker door is also its own little project.
Estimated Time Investment
Week Long Project (20 Hours or More)
Recommended Skill Level
Beginner

Comments

Rustic Outdoor Chairs

Submitted by Anonymous (not verified) on Mon, 03/04/2024 - 11:53

Seen these plans a couple years ago and finally have gotten around to making a set. This was a fun and really easy to follow set of instructions and I think they turned out really nice.

Jeff, with LaBrie Family Woodworking LLC

Built from Plan(s)
Modern Outdoor Chair from 2x4s and 2x6s
Seasonal And Holiday
Spring
Summer
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