Modified Subway tile bookcase. 7' tall by 4' wide.
My wife recently started Grad School and needed a better space to study other than the dining room table. She found the plans that she liked on Shanty2Chic and bought the addtional tools needed for the job...she was serious about this project. I made the desk over 3 weekends, a few hours each day. I only diverted from the plans by adding a 1 1/2" spade bit hole in the back to run the power cords through and tacking a surdge protector in between the top beams to help organize and hide the cords.
Took a few tries to get those side rails right just eyeballing the angles but finished product looked great!
Switched 1x10 for 1x4
So after my husband and I conquered the headboard, we decided that we were geniuses at furniture making and we would just build the two side tables. Well, the two side tables are much more difficult than the headboard. The side tables are definitely do-able but make sure that you leave plenty of time for them. We built most of them on a Sunday and then finished them up in the evenings the rest of teh week. We do not have a Kreg Jig and were able to build them without it; however, if you have a Kreg Jig it would make thing 1,000 times easier. We did end up buying a miter saw because we were building the Old style Workmen's Bench bar at the same time (crazy, I tell you). It is CRITICAL to make sure that your inside drawer measurements work. If you are off just by a little, your drawer pulls are not going to fit. We ended up buying bottom mount drawer pulls. The drawers are a little less stable and can hold less weight (up to 35 pounds) but it worked for us. I think the real key to finishing this project are choosing the right drawer pulls. I really believe that spending a little bit more on the drawer pulls makes the piece look more expensive. We spent about 6.50 a drawer pull but they look really nice in person. TIPS **Stain drawer faces off, then attach hardware, then attach to drawer base **If you are going to use wood filler (I wouldn't), make sure that you use the least bit possible - the stain does not take to it the same
Tue, 09/11/2012 - 03:15
This plan is what I wanted, but I chickened out. Yours looks fantastic!
Just a little something to go in the dining room. I like the look of it. If I find another need for one I would definitely make this again accept use a different stain and paint the base white and use a semi-gloss or gloss protective finish.
I made two of these tables and they were pretty fun, but were a little more work than I thought they would be. All of the wood is kiln dried douglas fir, as the first table top I made warped as it was green wood and not the look I was going for. I shortened the length to 72" so I had to adjust the angles for the center pieces. I decided to build the tables, stain it, them took them apart and glued important joints, prior to staining the tables a second coat to avoid the glue standing out. I also used 4x4's instead of sandwiched 2x4's as I thought it looked nicer that way. I finished with 9 coats of polyurethane on the top and than a coat of wax using 0000 steel wool to get all the little imperfections out.
I ended up going with the suggested 4 inch extension for more leg room. The outer boards measured out around 41 11/16". Two more 2x6x8's were used to do this along with a 2x4x10.
I built this island using Ana's base cabinet plans. I simply added a face frame to all the sides because they are all visible. My wife drew up the plan that includes open storage at one end and an overhang at the other to provide room for a stool. We bought the butcher block top online. It comes unfinished, so we had to sand it down smooth and treat it with mineral oil.
Wed, 09/05/2012 - 09:55
I'm in love....this is gorgeous! You both should be very proud of how it turned out. Now, if only my kitchen weren't so small that I can touch both opposite countertops with my arms spread out.....I would build this in a heartbeat! :P
Thu, 11/06/2014 - 09:25
As Kathy in Pittsburgh said, .."this is gorgeous!" I too would be building this if my kitchen were nearly large enough to accommodate it.
Thanks for posting this, it gives me inspiration.
Mark in Portland, OR
I built this PB Teen-inspired #1 shelf for my oldest son's bedroom. He has an all-star theme going on in there, so I knew this would be perfect for him. I modified the plans a bit and used standard 1" boards, rather than plywood. I am planning to hang it on his wall and I wanted to be able to have a sturdier shelf to do so.
This is what got me started in woodworking. I started by repurposing different things. This is a piano that I repurposed into a bar. I have repurposed many items. Then I got the urge to build new items. I can't stop!!! I am totally addicted! I have built the sandboxes with the lids that fold into seats, (I adapted the plans to make a 5' by 5'), toys boxes, childs tables and chairs, lego tables, and the list goes on. I cannot stay out of my garage. But I am loving it.
This was a easy build and is super strong . ITs built for a kid sized picnic table but I tested It with my weight to see how it holds up and (200 lbs) didn’t hurt it or even make the seat budge.
I made this pantry workstation by modifying the six laundry basket plans. Added 2x4 stretchers between the front and back frames, top and bottom. Made cleats from 1x3 for a less bulky look. And added 1/2 inch AC plywood shelves. Sand and stain later.
gypsy
This is not my first build, as I built some tables for my shop using various plans.
Anyway, here it is, the hall tree! I changed up the trim a bit. So much of me went into this, and a couple of times I pulled out the crowbar and started over on the moulding and on the cross supports on the top because I was a bit of a perfectionist... something I need to learn to control with this new found hobby.
Let me know what you think! Already the picture have about 50 likes on my facebook and people want me to build them one! I think I'll just send them the link... !!!
Sat, 04/06/2013 - 09:03
What did you use for the back plywood panel? Oak? I'm having difficulty finding oak plywood in anything except 3/4", and it looks like there's a contrast between wood types. Is that just a difference in stain or difference in wood?
Thanks!
Thu, 10/16/2014 - 08:35
I love your version. I really like the moulding that you put on the top piece of the bench. Since there is a lip on the top piece (overlaps the bottom section of the bench), how did you attached the moulding so that the top of it lays flat and flush with the top piece? I assume that you made some sort of hidden spacer between the lip and the moulding. Is that correct?
Also, how did you attach the back plywood to the decorative cross beams, finish nails?
Thanks for sharing!
We had a big wall in our living room and nothing to fill it.. To buy a piece of furniture this size would have been so expensive. I worked on this piece over a week and a half... during kids naps. I used cove molding around the outside edges instead of the two base moldings on top and bottom. I added a very large crown molding on top. I wasn't able to find a prefab base molding thick enough that was stain quality so I just used a 1x4 and another molding on top of it. I made 4 shelves but after getting out all my decor I decided to only have one on the left side. I applied edge banding to finish off the plywood edges on the shelves. It was super easy to use and was stainable. The kreg pin hole jig was used so that that the shelves can be adjusted to different heights. I'm planning to order cabinet latches for the doors.. for both look and function with two little kiddos. I used minwax dark walnut stain. Oh, I also added a support underneath the middle bottom section.. it really needs it otherwise its flexible.. I'm very happy with how it turned out.
Mon, 04/20/2015 - 18:02
How did you attach the Hutch to the Sideboard. It looks extremely successful so I was curious as your strategy to successfully attach it safely and soundly. Thanks.
Sofa table
Didn't use plans for this, so I eyeballed basically everything. Certainly made for a more frustrating build, but I have to say I'm happy with the end result!
Almost 5 years after we moved into the country onto our Hamstead of 3 acres, I finally committed to building our chicken coop. Last year, my husband brought home a ton of lumber used for shipping. I started tearing it down and slowly, over the past few months, I built this perfect coop for our 6 little chicks. It required a ton of sketching and planning, adjustments, and do overs, but it has come together so well. Thanks and shout out to the plan from Ana White and the brag post by @blackgirlbythesea
Made the swing then just kinda came up with my own frame.
Tue, 09/11/2012 - 05:04
I have been considering making this bench for a friend but I wonder how comfortable it is...is it comfortable? Does it require a cushion? Is the back high enough to be comfortable leaning back in it for long periods? Also - how long did you wait to paint your pressure treated wood? I just recently learned you have to allow pressure treated wood dry out before painting...no one seems to tell you how long you have to wait though. Thanks for any help/opinions you share.
In reply to Comfortable? by mikejillnelson
Wed, 09/12/2012 - 19:38
Honestly, it's not very comfortable. I think the seat part is a little too long, and the back is a little too short. We're going to put a beefy cushion on the back, and I think that's going to help because it will push us forward a little bit. It's not bad to sit in, but I definitely think it could be tweaked.
I let the wood dry out for 4 days (but I cut and assembled it the day I bought the wood). I'm not sure if that was long enough of not, but I was getting impatient, and, like you, couldn't find any real answers on drying time. It wasn't really that wet to begin, though. Hope that helps!
Thu, 09/13/2012 - 00:04
I thought my kids and I were the only ones who used "ghetto" as a way to describe things... but I have to say that your frame looks great, it serves its purpose so I have to respectfully disagree with you, it doesn't look anything like "ghetto" :-)
In reply to I have to laugh by tracysmith
Thu, 09/13/2012 - 15:31
Well thank you! I put the first coat of white paint on the frame today and it looks much nicer now!
Tue, 01/22/2013 - 10:02
Hey, can you post the dimensions of your frame? its exactly what I'm looking for. Do you have it screwed down to the deck? will it tip over?
Tue, 01/22/2013 - 11:27
Hey, can you post the dimensions of your frame? its exactly what I'm looking for. Do you have it screwed down to the deck? will it tip over?
This was our first build from this website and we are so pleased! Having seen very involved plans on an Australian website for a similar sandpit, I was so pleased to come across this version, with its far simpler design!
We wanted a slightly bigger sandpit, so I needed to do some modifications, and while I was enlarging it, I also converted to metric sizes, and designed specifically for the timber I knew I could buy locally (very obscure and inconsistent seeming German sizes). So the end result is a 1.5x1.5m sandpit, that has so far had 6 kids playing happily in it at once!
I've put in the drawings I used, and the cutting list for larger sizes in case anyone else is working in metric, or wants a bigger size!
Our other modification was to offset the shorter sections of the base to run along the front plank of the bench seat - there were two main benefits for this - we need a lot less sand, as there is none wasted under the seat, and the seat is supported and can't bow downwards!
The dimensions and layout we used are in the images.
Supplies
Timber
2 - 200 x 40 x 3000mm
6 - 120 x 24 x 3000mm
1 - 80 x 50 x 3000mm
Hinges
12 - 140mm long (the original design had 8, we went with three per edge to allow for the extra width)
Self tapping decking screws
18 - 5 x 80
48 - 5 x 50
96 - 3 x 20 (or enough for your hinges, depending on the design)
Paint
3 - 375ml PU Acrylic Paint, suitable for exterior use (top planks and seat supports)
1 - 750ml PU Acrylic Paint, suitable for exterior use (base)
Weed matting and staple gun
Sand
I calculated I would need 20 x 25kg bags - in the end we needed 11 - don't ask me where we went so wrong!
Cutting list
2 - 200 x 40 x 1500 (long sides of base)
2 - 200 x 40 x 1415 (short sides of base)
12 - 120 x 24 x 1495 (top slats - just under half a plank, to allow for waste)
4 - 80 x 50 x 245 (armrests / seat braces)
4 - 80 x 50 x 495 (back supports of seats)
I gladly paid 5 Euro for the wood to be cut in Hornbach - it should have been more than this, but the guy was generous!
12 hinges (the original design had 8, we went with three per edge to allow for the extra width)
On Sunday we had the idea, on Monday I drew up the plans, on Tuesday I went shopping! Once all our wood was home safely, we sanded it down - most edges weren't badly finished, but there were a few splinters that needed getting rid of!
The next two nights Mr W gallantly set to work with the paint brush. After two nights, the wood all had two good coats of paint and we were ready to start assembling on Friday.
I pre-drilled the base of the bench before the second coat of paint - three holes for each butt joint - with some careful measuring this made screwing the base together really easy!
The top planks were also pre drilled, but there unfortunately my tiredness made me make mistakes, and some had to be re-drilled! Spacing the planks out took a lot of time, but I am glad I made the effort. I used cereal box, and experimented with different numbers of layers - I knew I wanted a theoretical 5.4mm gap, but it took some time to get the right number of layers of carefully creased and concertinaed card!
Having got our spacing wedge sorted, we screwed the blue planks in place at either end of the base. We then assembled the green seat section, and the blue/yellow back rest. Following a tip from the comments section, we added the hinge to the seat/back combo first, as this ends up being on the underside. Once those two hinged sections were made, they were then laid in place on the base (card wedge spacers in place) and then the final hinges added. The final assembly took about 5 hours - but this was partly because we started outside, then had to move everything inside when a huge thunderstorm rolled in!
The next morning we got busy with the staple gun and tacked weed matting over the base, then it was hauled in to position and filled up! For us getting this done and dusted was important, otherwise it could have dragged on a lot, but we are terribly proud that it was done in less than a week from being fist conceived!
I hope the metric/enlarged plans are of use to someone else too. One other idea we had, which we didn't get round to building in, was a support bar to be fitted when you close the pit, so the kids can play on top as a stage when it is not being used for a sandpit!
