Community Brag Posts

This took me forever to do even with the plans and I still had to rig it cause I just couldn't get it square.  Im working on that but I'm very new at wood working and took this project on but I absolutely love it. This really cleared up my shed and space combined with extra tables to work on.  I got to use it for the first time today and it was awesome.  I think everyone should have one of these !!!

This was one of the first projects I've ever built, so I would put it at a beginner level. It's a great, sturdy bed, very simple. The drawers are huge, which is surprising, since you don't realize how much space you gain when you add the drawers until you see how much they store. Thought I'd fill in details that worked for me that I had to figure out. As the plan says, the drawers are on caster wheels and slide directly on the floor, so make sure you have an area rug down if it's going to be on bare wood (especially pine, like this one is on). As another reviewer said, use 2" caster wheels, 12 total. This gives it the right height on a wood floor. You can get those in bulk at a home improvement store. I would recommend a slat system and not just a piece of plywood for under the mattress, as I was warned bacteria and mold can grow when the mattress is not given a way to vent. You can see in the picture, I had a bunch of 2x4 scraps and simply made a slat system out of that. I pocket holed the slats into the front of the bed, so no screws would be showing. I only finished the sides that would ever show, so the entire back of the drawers and bed itself are unfinished. I like the look of the drawers without handles, and they are just as easy to pull out without them. The drawers can get off track easily when being pulled in and out, so be careful when you use them. Otherwise, no problems with the drawers. I used wood glue and cheap drywall screws to attach the drawer bottoms (plywood) to the drawers. If you want to put anything of any serious weight in these drawers, really consider supporting the middle of the drawers on the bottom with some 1x2s or 1x3s, as it is a bit weak in the middle of the drawers. One more thing: I noticed standard dimensions vary slightly between finishing wood (1x12s, 1x2s, etc) and structural wood (2x4 studs), so keep that into account. Things were not flush because the finish wood was scaled larger than the structural wood. This bed is all about the storage underneath, which is great.

Built this for my father for Father's Day he loved it.

I gave up my closet for a bathroom remodel last year...totally worth it. Since then my shoes have been stored in a pile next to my bed.  So happy I found this wonderful pattern.  I love my new shoe dresser!!  Thank you Ana!!

I'm a beginner at this, so for the most part I followed Ana's plans to building the Camp Loft Bed with Stairs. I made a few tweaks, including adding a slide to the front, putting the stairs on the other side, raising it by 7" (since there is a toddler bed underneath), and using hemmed shower curtain to create a fort underneath.
I made all the cuts with a miter saw and sanded all the wood down. I then glued and screwed the stairs, platform, and end pieces together. All the wood then got 1 coat of primer and paint. Then on Christmas Eve the bed was assembled in the kids' room. The sanding, priming, and painting took the longest. Cutting it and putting it together didn't take long.
For the railings, I did all screws from the outside to give a stronger hold than the pocket holes, and used 3 3/4" screws for the weigh bearing pieces. I counter sunk all the screws and added buttons to cover them (not yet painted in the photos). I also mounted the 45 degree 2x6 cuts in the 4 weight bearing corners to add extra bracing (not pictured). To brace the slide, I glued and bolted a 4x4 on the front of the bed. The curtains are just 2 off the shelf shower curtains that got hemmed to the correct height, and then were mounted using small teacup hooks. I plan to add an eyehole to each side, so they can be pulled back and hooked open.

This is the second of three AG doll beds I made for my nieces.

I am so in love with how this turned out! We will be making the matching Rustic "X" Console Table next!!!

SeeSaw made for the kids I watch, they love it

As suggested at the beginning of the instructions, be sure to read through the entire set of instructions before shopping and making this headboard. The parts lists calls for 3 - 7ft pieces of moulding. However, we needed more than three to do the finishing touches. Also, none of the mouldings suggested were at our Home Depot, so we improvised. Cutting some of the mouldings to go around the corners was too challenging for us, so we ended the moulding strips at the end of the bed. To give the ends a finished look, we used some of the 1/4" plywood, cut them, and sanded them. Be sure to sand all the surfaces. The instructions tell you how long to cut some pieces, but they don't say whether the board is supposed to be a 2X4 or 1X6, so be sure to go through the directions thoroughly before starting and cutting. We did use spray paint, and it took more than three cans to provide sufficient coverage, since the wood soaked up much of the first layer of paint.

This was my first real project. I started with the base instructions from this site and plugged them into Sketch-Up. From there I modified them a bit to fit my space better and to accomodate my PC and Audio/Video equipment. The desk fir perfectly in the room. My wife and I put the flooring in plus new baseboards, window sills, and paint. I also used some plans for floating shelves from another site and incorporate lighting to complete the look of the room. Can't wait for my next project!!!

This project took us about one week to complete. We spent two days building the vanity itself and added a shelf on the bottom. Staining it took a while and so did the topcoat. The Kreg Jig is amazing to work with, it made building this thing so much easier! The sink is purchased from Amazon along with the drain, together ran about $100. The faucet is from Costco ($70). We are pleased with the result and couldn't believe we were able to do it ourselves. I find myself popping into the bathroom just to make sure it's real!

This was the first time I have built drawers!  I love how it turned out!!  This website has given me the confidence to build things I never thought I would.

We have 6 children and needed a dedicated area for coats, backpacks and other outdoor items.  I loved how I could modify the smiling mudroom plans to fit my needs.  I used plywood for the bench and 1" x 12" pine boards for the shelves and dividers to minimize the cuts.

I bought some cool Parson Chairs to use with my grandparent's 1950s style porcelain top table. Unfortunately, the chairs were way too big to fit between the legs of the table. My friend said she was surprised I didn't build my own chairs in the first place... that's when I remembered seeing a Parson Chair plan on Ana White! I liked the overall design of the chair in the plan, but I wanted to make some changes to make it my own. I made the chair narrower to fit between the legs of my table, changed the angle of the rear legs from 15 degrees to 10 degrees, increased the rear legs from 2x2s to 2x3s and made the back taller. This was my FIRST sewing project and I'm really pleased with the way it turned out!

First Brag. Solid pine in 2 X 8s obtained from dumpster diving behind a boat store. This wood is from boat shipping crates. Milled down with table saw to usable sizes. Not hollow like the WE Emmerson table. Very heavy and solid with NO wiggle! 

This was my first furniture project and only my 2nd woodworking project, the previous one a cubby house over 20 years ago, so I was a bit nervous. I did lots of planning, research and designing before the first cut. I incorporated ideas from Ana projects as well as from other sites and learned how to use a drop saw, various sanders and the pocket hole jig.

We wanted a tall table because when sitting a a regular height table the view is blocked by the deck railing.

I decided to make it out of hardwood for durability in the Australian outdoors and also because we get sea air where we are. The hardwood (Blackbutt) was challenging to work with - extremely heavy and difficult to drill into, but the finished product is SO solid and will outlive us all. Due to the weight and density of the timber I overengineered as far as joining went, using more pocket holes than usual.

I saw the idea of the built in ice troughs years ago and was keen to incorporate them into my table. I also made the legs detachable so that the table top could be moved out onto the deck once it was finished and the legs added in situ. Once it was set up my husband put big screws into the legs just in case but it would really take an earthquake to move this thing.

I managed to build it over 3 weekends and finished it just in time for our family Christmas party but it only had 1 coat of stain on it at that stage. I finished it off later and we also decided that the ice trough covers would look good in a contrasting colour so did them in charcoal. If I made it again it would be a much quicker project as there was alot of 'firsts' and learning along the way.

The dimensions are:

2660mm long (about 8' 9")

1150mm wide (about 3' 9.5")

1165mm high (about 3' 10")

The legs are solid - 140 x 140mm (5.5")

It seats 10 - 12 comfortably and 14 at a squeeze.

We got the bar stools 2nd hand for an absolute steal - 12 for $200! They are handmade hardwood too and look great.

The timber was quite expensive but I was able to use the work account so got it at trade price. This would be a very expensive table to buy but all up it cost us about AU$1100.

This project was not exactly easy but I would class myself as a novice. With the right planning and preparation (plus stubbornness) anyone could do this :-)