Community Brag Posts

so i put this storage shed on the outside wall of my garage and then i put my dust collector inside it and cut a hole for the pipe to into the garage. It's nice and out of the way now. I adjusted the size a bit to make it fit more of my outside tools like the trimmer and blower. Its not in the picture but I also extended the roof about 30 inches over the side to park the lawn mower under it. If I were to do it again I'd make it even bigger.

We had a 28 inch nook in the mud room/bathroom that was the collect all for our shoes, hats, boots, scarves, and pup accessories. Had seen shoe cabinets at ikea but with the space being small it needed a "custom" build. Ana had the perfect solution!! We took basic plan and reduced length to 28 inches and top width to 12 inches. I wanted a larger top surface to place baskets. We took the 2 drawer and added a 3rd for increased storage space. Drawers were also made deeper to fit with the wider top piece. Also added a 4 thick chunky legs (4x4) to help support and stabilize dresser. Those were set in a bit to accommodate the molding along baseboard. Added faux drawer fronts using 1/4 inch ply wood. We put the magnets on but made drawers hard to open so we kept magnet but removed the plate. An old leather belt was recycled for the back strips to prevent drawers from flopping down.

Simply inspired by Ana's Garage Shelving project using 2 By 4s. Thank you Ana. Below are my project details.

1. Shelving Height =  8 Ft, Width = 12 Ft, Depth = 13 inches (Each shelve having 3 pieces of 2 by 4s). All 8 Ft and 12 Ft lumber available in this standard size.  Only cutting required (done at Home Depot) was for the 13 inch pieces to build the shelving legs (which in Ana's original plan is 17 inches, and has 4 pieces of 2 by 4s).  Able to carry all lumber (multiple trips) in minivan after folding seats.

2. Garage Floor was a bit uneven - so I used Shims (plastic) as suggested by HomeDepot associate.

3. To secure the shelves from the top of the wall, I used corner L brackets, 3 inch by 3 inch.  I used 1-1/2 inch screws to mount the bracket on the 2 by 4s, and then to mount the other side of the bracket to wall studs, I used the 2-1/2 inch screws (which I used throughout the project as Ana suggested). I mounted two brackets sideways, and one on the top (because the stud was around the corner).   Used a thin nail to find the stud as studfinder results were not reliable

4. After making shelving legs, we made them stand next to the wall, and then mounted the shelves (3 pcs each on each shelve) and then put screws.  My wife, her uncle, aunt, and cousin helped to mount finally, and it was great fun.

I made this cabinet for my 9 year old daughter. My daughter enjoyed filling the shelves with her things and the door with her ear rings. The shelves are made from 1x3's. I added 4 small hinges and 1 magnetic closure. The stain used is purple (daughter's choice). This was a fun build that took 2 days start to finish.

I followed the instructions to a T.
This is a very simple build and makes a great bed. My daughter loves it and I love the look.
I didn't screw down the 1x2 supports because I was having trouble with the wood splitting. It's worked out fine this way, I just need to rearrange a little bit when I change the bedding on her mattress.
If you have a kid who likes to climb or jump on their bed a lot, be sure to use a lot of screws to connect the bed frame to the foot board.

Really fun project. I plan on making a side table and 2 chairs with this plan as well.

We just finished the side street bunk beds! We got all our wood from Menards, our favorite store! My husband build the bunk bed and I finished it. I sanded it all with 180 and 220 grit sand paper. Sanding probably took the most time, I was covered! I filled all the screw holes with wood glue and saw dust. These areas ended up looking like knots when stained so I was very pleased. Our wood was rough (now super smooth), it had a lot of character, so the screw holes blend right in. After sanding it, I applied the wood conditioner and 2 coats of Varathane premium dark walnut wood stain. I then applied one coat of Varathane fast drying, heavy use formula, clear, semi gloss Polyurethane. I did a light sanding on everything using 400 grit and then applied one more coat of Polyurethane. For the wood conditioner, stain and polyurethane I applied it with a foam brush and wiped it off a staining pad. It went on very even, definitely recommend using both! I ahve used expensive brushes before and the cheap .50 cent brushes worked so much better! We waited to attach the ladder and guard rails till it was up in my son's room, which made staining it a lot easier. I even stained the boards that hold the mattresses. My son is a very tall, almost 4 year old and the angle ladder is perfect. He was very excited to get it up in his room this weekend!

Also in the finished photo are two navy blue Simple Bookshelves and the Flat Wall Bookholder also finished in dark walnut!

Photo's: I posted a photo of after the first coat of stain and after the second coat. I was nervous the second coat was too dark (accidentally forgot to keep stirring the can) but after I applied the polyurethane the chalky look disappeared. Only had to use one quart can of both the stain and Polyurethane for the finish.

If you're looking for an easy built that will INSTANTLY add more seating for your outdoor space, look no further! This was such an easy build and is one of my favorites so far. All it took was 2X4 boards, which are dirt cheap. 

www.withlovefromgablog.blogspot.com

I built this book shelf for my daughter.

I made both the top and the bottom shelves an angled.
I used a finishing nail punch to emboss the name.

I mixed 3 different color stains to match the other furniture.

Used 2" caster wheels from Home Depot.

First pergola build. Plans were very easy to follow and it turned out great!

Built in cabinet based on the bar door cabinet project. Reclaimed bar wood used for the doors and trim. Custom made steel hardware. 

I made this sewing table using Ana Whites Sewing table for small spaces plan. I used 3/4" fir plywood.
I did however make changes to use continuous hinges (aka piano hinges) and upgraded the legs to 2x2's. I used folding leg brackets from Lee Valley Tools found here: http://www.leevalley.com/en/hardware/page.aspx?p=40035&cat=3,41306,41309

It's finished with a dark walnut stain, and three coats of water based varathane. All told this project took about a week. I had the pieces cut for me by the lumberyard, but they still required sanding before assembly. Then assembly took another afternoon. Staining & finishing took the longest, probably 3 days, since I could only work on it in the late afternoon - evening.

Approximate Costs:
$30.00 Hinges, screws, & 2x2's for legs, paint brush
$20.00 Stain & Finish (some savings here as I had some leftover from another project)
$30.00 Folding leg brackets
$50.00 Lumber Costs (this can vary wildly depending on your wood selection)

Took 2.5 hrs to cut, fasten and sand, and approximately 24-48 hrs to paint, stain and poly.

This has been a very rewarding project. Now I have people comissioning work!

Thanks for the plans

I recently resigned from my job to stay home with my kids. This gave me time to begin a long desired hobby! Thanks to this website and the awesome, easy to follow plans, I have been able to start practicing with some very practical pieces. I have been looking for extra tall stools for over five years, since moving to our current home, and have not been able to find any I'm willing to buy. They have to be special ordered and are ridiculously priced for the chintzy pieces they are. I had fun making these ones and they look gorgeous in my home.

It took me several days to complete all three, but for a more experienced person it would take much less time. I used the Kreg Jig for all holes possible. And with each stool I learned something, and each one was completed in less time than the last.

THANK YOU ANA!

Built a small table for the living room out of a reclaimed pallet.