Kentwood Bookshelf
I loved this from Ana's site so much we tacked one. Please note I glued, screwed and dowel ed the holes. I hate kreg jigs. We also made ours taller to add an extra shelf.
Provincial stain and triple coat poly
I loved this from Ana's site so much we tacked one. Please note I glued, screwed and dowel ed the holes. I hate kreg jigs. We also made ours taller to add an extra shelf.
I followed Ana's Fancy X Farmhouse Table to build my base, but switched her tabletop out for a split herribone design. The tutorial for the tabletop is on the blog!
Wed, 04/18/2018 - 22:46
Thank you for the inspiration on the table top. I followed your plans to make mine in the Chevron pattern as well. Well done! And the bench looks great, too!
My very first build back in 2020!
I liked the apothecary plans and loved the look. My wife really liked it and needed somewhere for our daughter to keep her toys. For our anniversary I told her I would redesign it and make it as she liked. This is what we came up with and I think it turned out great. We used full overlay door to prevent the visible lines on the original and are really happy with the results.
We were replacing the floors in our house so we decided to build a closet mud room. We used the plans for the smiling mudroom and altered them slightly. We didn't end up building the partitions because the left and right seats would have been too closed in. We installed bead board on the back wall and used moulding on the shelf and bench. The only hard part was that we had to actually assemble the shelves and bench in the closet because they wouldn't have fit in once built! The Kreg Jig was extremely helpful and well worth the purchase.
Thu, 01/02/2014 - 13:37
I am going to do this in our laundry room which you walk into from the garage - what do you suggest doing when you remove the doors for the current closet? I do not want to install all new trim since that was just done recently, before the mudroom idea came! Thanks!
this was the second table built using Anna's fancy x plan. The first used regular 2x6 pine boards for the top and was given to my son for a housewarming gift. This second I built for my wife and changed up the top by using 1x6 pecan we had milled and then I planed down myself. The outer edges were left with a live edge to give it more rustic character. I used slotted "L" shaped metal about 6" long to secure the top of the table to the supports underneath, to allow for any expansion in the boards. I recently made a new kitchen island to match.
The Breakfast Nook is a small space with doors on either side. The Bar-Stools are a little bit "higher than normal" and they have an obtrusive arm. Very comfortable for sitting; but, cannot have an apron on a table or bar. Needed room for 2 stools on each side.
To meet all these requirements, end up with a table that's long-ish, narrow, and tall. Desired dimensions: 58 L x 28 W x 36.25 H.
Problems: (1) worried about it being "wobbly" (tall & could not have an apron on the length); (2) needed to fit those bar-stools between the legs.
Solution: I "merged" the plans for the Farmhouse Table with elements of the Truss Beam table for structural integrity.
Top is typical: used pocket-hole jig / screws (Kreg) to join three 2 x 10's. Final Width: 27.75". Cut even with straight-edge and framing saw (used a 60 T Fine-finish blade - nice!).
Set the end stretchers into the legs; attached with brown-colored deck screws. Attached length-wise stretchers to the end stretchers with deck screws. Could have used pocket-holes; but, this way, it's symmetrical and everything matches.
Added 45 degree supports for stabililty - used combination of pocket-holes and deck screws.
Base is sized so that top has a 1.5" overhang all-round.
Attached the top to the base with pocket-holes / screws - to top end stretchers and legs, and top length-wise stretcher.
All these awesome projects build by Laticia!
I built the farmhouse table and needed a farmhouse bench to match. The building plan helped make it so simple and I couldn't have done it without the inspiration of Ana White. I used leftover 4x4"s for the legs and then pretty much followed everything else that the building plan said.
I've tried to document better at: http://www.tommyandellie.com/Site/Home/Entries/2011/6/14_Farmhouse_Benc…
Thu, 06/30/2011 - 04:48
After building it, I realized that this would make a great bench anywhere. I could easily see this as an outdoor bench, around the pool, around a picnic table, along a deck, anywhere.
Sun, 10/02/2011 - 21:05
It looks so beautiful with your table, great job! I am looking to build a bench for my counter/bar. Do you think it would work to build it counter height? I am totally new to building and building a bench for my counter is my first priority.
Mon, 10/03/2011 - 05:46
Thanks for the great comments! I think you could totally make this at as a counter height bench (approximately 24"). I would be a little worried that if it was too long it could topple over easily. So if you had about a 60" length to cover, I would probably build two 30" benches that can butt up to one another.
One other thought is to make some stools.....I posted some of those from an ana-white plan as well for you to check out; http://ana-white.com/2011/06/simplest-stool-saddle-back-style
Hope that helps....let me know if you have other questions.
Tommy
In reply to Counter Height Bench by tsibiga
Wed, 02/15/2012 - 18:14
Tommy, I appreciate your helpful comments. Like how I just got it today, some priority in getting the bench done! =) I am getting back it now however.... So, I love the stools you made! I am trying however to limit the amount of things (stools/chairs) that my little kids can push around the kitchen. I am considering the two smaller benches at counter height. If I could do one at 24" tall do you think 55" would be too long? I was thinking it would be good to put supports across the length (maybe 10" or 12" from the floor?) to help stability and to use for little ones climbing up. If that makes since? Anyway thanks for your help I really appreciate it!
Modern Farmhouse Dining Room Table (with pocket hole) and 2x4 chairs with plans reposted from morelikehome.net.
Surfed the site for the right plans and dove right in. Thank you for the inspiration all!
Mon, 09/10/2018 - 11:05
I have clicked on the link the plans are not there.
My brother and I built this table in about 4 hours over two days (finishing took longer) shortly after I purchased my first house. We needed a dining room table, and everything was super-expensive that we liked, so I luckily came across Ana's site and found this bad boy. I had never built anything in my life, but my brother had a little woodworking experience and, very importantly, some tools, so I ordered the legs from Osbourne Wood, got the rest from Home Depot and got building! We've gotten so many compliments on it. Thanks, Ana!
This table was fun to build, but took me a looonng time. Things I learned doing this project: First, when the pros tell you something can be put together in a few hours, they do not mean for mere mortals. Second, good staining really requires you to know your wood. I had several pine boards with a very pink undertone that made it impossible to get the color I wanted. I had to restain this twice. Third, this console table can support at least 130 pounds!
Barn door liquor cabinet.
by Greg
I made this ladder table, I just love it to hold books in my daughters room, I think I got the legs on backwards but you can't tell, and it sits flush. First project done!!
Inspiration for this project came from the original Restoration Hardware table's price, which was way out of our budget. We found the plans on this site, and then the brag post from http://tommyandellie.com/?p=2582, which convinced me to give it a try when we moved to our new house.
I pulled some ideas and techniques from a couple of different areas - one was the idea from American Woodworker to use a straight-edge and a router to joint the edges of adjacent boards so they match perfectly, or as close to perfect as possible (see one of the pictures). After a few false starts it worked out very well.
One other big change was to use 4x4 pieces for the legs and cross-braces - especially on the long cross-brace. With two kids (6 and 3) and a third on the way, I knew they would want to crawl under the table to play, and sit on the beams - and I was afraid a 2x4 wouldn't hold up to their weights. I've VERY happy with the result - that base is not moving or flexing at all.
Finally, I learned a TON about what NOT to do! Apparently after doing the dry fit and having everything fit well, you should not sand the parts of the boards that fit together or suddenly they will be loose! Also, wiping off the stain after the suggested amount of time IS a good idea, after all! Finally, we ended up using pine boards with fir 4x4's, and I wish we had used all fir as I think the grain pattern was nicer.
All in all, though, it was a great experience and I can't wait to tackle another project!
Mon, 08/05/2013 - 14:52
Thanks Rob, good luck! Below is the link to the original source for the technique I used (#8 in the list). Just be VERY sure you have the boards (and the straightedge) clamped tightly so there's no wiggling. The first time I did it I didn't have the straightedge tight enough and it wiggled loose at one end, so the router started biting into one board more than the other, making a curve. Once I got the layout figured out, however, it worked very well and I was very pleased with it - I even did it again with the ends of the long boards (after they were glued/screwed together) and the inside edge of the breadboards before attaching them.
http://americanwoodworker.com/blogs/techniques/archive/2009/08/26/10-tr…
Fri, 08/09/2013 - 07:11
Good call on using 4x4's. They look much better then a builders grade 2x4. Looks great!
Fri, 08/16/2013 - 08:05
If your using a hand planer your going to get more of a worn uneven look, it's nearly impossible to get a perfect straight board after using a hand planer. IF you run it through a floor standing planer whatever bend in the board will still be there since it follows the contour of the board. If you want a straight board regardless of size you need to straighten it with a tablesaw. I am sure you can find a million how to's by just googling "how to straighten a board with a tablesaw". When your using building lumber you will always have an issue with things not being straight and looking "rough". It may be easier to just goto a actual lumber store and buy something that isn't Pine. Pine is a soft wood which is likely to dent easily after being used. But regardless, if you want a straight board use a tablesaw. I bought a bosch table saw at lowes and its awesome. folds up against my wall and is probably the best tool i have bought. Decent ones run about 400 bucks but its well worth it with what it allows you to do.
Fri, 08/16/2013 - 07:53
Not beforehand... (just to be clear, my 2x's were all white pine, only the 4x4's were Fir - unfortunately, the local Menards only had pine 2x's and fir 4x's) - I spent a lot of time at the store picking out the straightest, least cupped/curved boards I could find, and then spent more time at home arranging them to make sure the boards with the longest straightness (is that a term?) were used for the long pieces. Once the top was put together, I used a straightedge to find the humps and valleys in the top and used a hand plane to level them out a bit (see the background of the picture with the completed base, you can see the shavings on the top). I would suggest, if you do the hand plane route and aren't familiar with the tool or don't own one, to either borrow a well-tuned one from someone who would show you how to use it, or prepare to spend money to get a good one. You probably don't want to do what I did, which was buy a cheapo Stanley from Menards and then spend probably 8-10 hours over the course of a week or so trying to get it setup properly. I finally got it useable, but it was a very frustrating process and it didn't take long before the newly-sharpened edge was dull again. I did finally get it smooth enough so that it was easy to slide a plate or dish from one side of the table to the other without it rocking or hitting an edge/bump, but if I had it to do over again I would have saved the time and spent the money on a good older Stanley or a newer Lie-Nielsen or Lee Valley, etc., and then spent a lot less time getting the plane ready to go.
One thing that helped my mind-set as I went through the process was to remember that the beauty of this style is that it is not supposed to be perfect - a farmhouse table is supposed to look a little rough and worn, and the little defects are part of it's charm. It's an important point to remember especially if you are a bit of a perfectionist as I am!
We were looking to make a king size storage bed in the farmhouse style, but couldn't find anything that was exactly what we wanted, so we stole pieces from several plans and ended up with this!
Good plans and easy construction. Thanks!
Thu, 08/08/2013 - 08:54
Planning to build a set like this for my new patio. The angles on the bench legs don't appear to be 45s. Could you share a few detail about them? Thanks!
So This project was a little harder than I anticipated, but thanks to Anas' Rhyan nightstand plans as well as Kimbers project on the "not so Rhyan nightstand" I was able to get these done. A special thanks to Kimbers for several consult emails as well as some tips on getting materials at cheaper prices!!
I often got cheap material in the scrap area of the orange box. There actually was some good stuff there if you go early and get it before the contractors do! 1/4 sheet of 3/4" birch plywood for 4.01$
For this project I used the rattle can. I've had it suggested to me for other projects but was never willing to try it. It worked really well. No brush strokes but the down side is that it hid nothing!!!
Bathroom mirror made from 1 by 6s and a 24 inch by 20 inch plain mirror.
Comments
Ana White Admin
Wed, 08/12/2015 - 10:55
Love it!
Thanks for sharing, this looks great!
mdbennes
Wed, 09/02/2015 - 06:33
Like to make a 5 shelve case as well..
Can you tell me the length of your 1x12 sides to make it a 5 shelve case? Thank you and your's looks great!