Community Brag Posts

Love this trunk! It was my first attempt at moulding and I probably should have practiced on scrap wood first (recommend)! But it turned out great and one of my favorite pieces (because it's filled with toys).

I really wanted to build something for our first home so 3 months after moving in (and 7-8 months pregnant) I started on our dining table. To fit our dining room, the measurements were modified to have a 7ft-table, with the bench just long enough to slide all the way under the table. The legs are made of 4x4s of Douglas Fir and everything else is pine. I also removed the stretchers underneath because I wanted to be able to have chairs on the ends. The table seats 8 people very comfortably. It took me a little longer than anticipated, since I couldn't do any of the lifting until my husband came home, and he stained it with 2 coats of Rustoleum Weathered Grey stain and 2 coats of poly (with my light sanding in between each coat).

Couldn’t wait to share this one. I’ll post the finished pics on here once the painting is finished and the cushion is sewed.

This build is a reclaimed wood version of Ana’s Simple White Outdoor Loveseat. We’ll be using this inside. This started as a way to repurpose those blue vinyl cushions (which I made 11 years ago for a hot tub bench – these had been stored in the garage for a few years). Using reclaimed wood on hand – reclaimed 2x4 studs, an oak 1x12 shelf and some pine 1x12 scrap ripped to 1x6 for the aprons, plywood from an old entertainment center ripped to 1x4 size, some 1x4 that used to be trim, a left-over 1x2 and S4S, and some left-over 1x6, constructed the frame and back. After I got that together, Hubby suggested we add some wide arms so it wouldn’t need to have a side table. That was the only wood I had to purchase on this one – a 1x6x6 for the arms, and a 2x4 for bracing the arms.

So far this has been a weekend project, including re-sizing the plan to fit my 24” x 24” x 4” cushions, doing the math to use 1x4 size instead of 1x3 size for slats and rails, and sizing to use the 2x4 frame on their ends rather than flat, to save a tiny bit of space in the footprint. Originally there were going to be 8 1x4 rails for the back, but I was 1 piece short, so instead of having 8 rails in 1x4, I have 6 1x4’s plus the 1x6 in the center (now I have 1 piece of the 1x4 left over). And it’s very comfortable for sitting!

Still left to do: sand the filled screw holes on the arms and paint the arms, and sew the cushion. I got that high density foam with a 60% off coupon at JoAnn Fabrics. Also the fabric was 30% off (right now it’s just draped around the cushion for the photo). The fabric and foam was only $90, and I’ll have enough fabric left over for a few accents. Hopefully I’ll get to that during the week, if not, on the weekend.

I used the plans for the craft desk and modified it a little. I made the top like a lid that just sits on top so I can take it apart easier. I also put on full extension drawer glides and made the drawer larger. This took me quite a long time because I was working on it and studying for finals! Well worth it though!

I had my eye on this clubhouse bed from the Pottery Barn kids catalog and was so excited when I came across this plan and my hubby offered to build it for my 4-year-old. I think it actually turned out cuter than the Pottery Barn version! Thanks so much, Ana!

We couldn’t be happier with the outcome! This bed is beautiful and everyone who sees it is impressed. We did raise both the footboard and headboard so that both gave a bit more impressive appearance and so that the footboard rises above the mattress.

I really wanted to put a barn door in my husband's home office, but have you looked at the prices of the kits?  No way was I going to spend that for a door.  So I decided to fabricate it myself.  For the rail hardware- I used a 72" steel rod, copper pipe fittings, and lag screws.  For the door hardware, I used 12"ish, long pieces of steel, pulleys, and carriage bolts.

The door itself is made from plywood siding, 1 x 4's, 1 x 6's, and 1 x 3's.  The entire door and hardware cost around $80 to make myself.  It's functional and looks amazing!  The entire tutorial is up on my blog!

I made these boxes for my daughters for Christmas. I used maple, and I rabbeted the drawers and backs so that the plywood would sit flush. On the first box, I attempted to join with dowels, but as a novice, that didn't work well, and I converted to a few countersunk screws. On the second box, I used glue and nails as the plan suggested, which was much better. Installing the box hinges and lock was the most finicky part of the project.

My son saw this project and wanted a rocketship.  I was also tired of piling up his books on the floor.  The only wood I bought for it was 1/4" ply for the back as I used leftover 3/4" plywood for the bookcase itself.  Fairly easy with a Kreg, it just took a little while to finish all of the painting.

The house is 48" high and 36" wide and 28" deep. It has 3 floors with a total of 10 rooms. Floors were made to look like hardwood floors and stained. Was fun to build and my granddaughter cried when she saw it. Due to the size of it, I installed wheels on it also. I made it from a picture on Ana White of Kidkraft Chic Dollhouse 2011-12-06 Paint all your pieces before you assemble. It makes it a lot easier than trying to paint afterwards.

My bed frame dimensions were 76 wide by 80 length. So that is the inside demension after assembly. My headboard posts were cut to 54" and footboard posts were cut to 24". Headboard panels are 31.5" (14- 6" boards) and footboard panels are 15.5" (14- 6" boards). My posts were made from combining two 2x4s together. I plan on mounting the metal bed frame to the inside of the bed rails. I enjoyed this project greatly.

Built this in a weekend, took about 1.5 days. I ended us using 2x4's instead of 2x2's, I think it resulted in a much stronger frame. I also built a base for it to sit on. I got pre-stained cedar fence boards, and overlapped them 1" instead of a 1/2". Pretty easy project, I ended up siding the back on the ground, installing it, and then adding the side walls without the siding (just the framing), and then sided them in place. The doors work perfectly. I took my total inside dimension between walls, made sure the opening was square, and then divided that by two to get the width of each door. I then took another 1/4" off that, so each door had an additional 1/8" gap, it worked perfectly. When I set the doors, I put them on a piece of roofing closed as I screwed in the hinges, and then opened them and removed the roofing. I opted to run the door siding horizontal to use up a bunch of waste wood. I'm happy with the outcome. I also found some 6" self starting lag bolts and lagged through the back of the shed into studs (through the siding) into the garage behind it.

I’m in love with how well this bed turned out. Modified by using a 2x4 for middle support and 1x4’s for slats. It was less money and felt better for support.