Community Brag Posts

Dr. Seuss Bookshelf

This was a Baby Gift for my sister and her little boy, Xander who was born just a couple weeks ago. I wanted to do something special that would last for my sweet nephew. She found a bookshelf similar to this on cool-rooms.com and we decided to try to make our own version. I've posted about it on my blog if you're interested in the process.

Estimated Cost
$100 (my costs are higher due to where I live)
Estimated Time Investment
Weekend Project (10-20 Hours)
Finish Used
2 coats of red semi gloss and 2 coats of white on the shelves. Then after I had to make repairs after shipment I sanded it all and had to apply two more coats of red paint in a flat finish and sprayed 2 coats of a clear top coat.
Recommended Skill Level
Intermediate

Comments

Jenny94w

Mon, 02/19/2018 - 06:41

I would like instructions but it will no let me? 

Guest (not verified)

Sun, 03/18/2012 - 19:22

Clever cute creative. Cant stop looking at it. I love it. Thank you so much for posting.

Guest (not verified)

Sun, 03/18/2012 - 19:52

Thank you so much for posting .You did a beautiful job. Your a good sister and a Terrific aunt.

Legomamaof4

Sun, 03/18/2012 - 23:30

I love how you have taken a typical shelf and gave it a spark that is SO ONE of a KIND! WOW! This gives me ideas! There is just not enough time in the day thought.

Thank you for sharing your Awesome creativity. Your Family is SO lucky to have someone as talented as you! Keep up the good JOB!!!

Again AMAZING!!!

LaylasMOM

Thu, 06/07/2012 - 20:38

i love this design and cannot wait to make a pink one for my little girl!

zookeeperjay

Mon, 09/03/2012 - 08:59

I have long thought I wanted cartoon furniture for my kids. Haha. . I'm so inspired! Thanks I have to go get building!

Sheryl (not verified)

Sat, 01/05/2013 - 11:02

Love this ... My son is having his first child and would love to make this . Do you have anymore pics of it . And does anyone have any other patterns ?

Outdoor Sectional

Submitted by Anonymous (not verified) on Mon, 04/04/2016 - 06:29

I modified the plans slightly, reducing the overall seating depth by 1.5" so I could use 8' lumber with minimal waste, and make 2 cushions out of one 54" width of fabric. I also tweaked the design to make a chaise lounge on one side. I used bargain priced sunbrella fabric (has a few imperfections) and recycled soda bottle fill for the cushions to keep cost lower. Building the wooden part was quick and easy (took an afternoon including two trips to the store), but this was my first sewing project so the total project time reflects my learning curve making and stuffing cushions.

Estimated Cost
Just under $300 total.

The lumber cost was less than $100. It was my first sewing project, so I was surprised that the cushion stuffing was the most expensive element of the whole project. If you can find cheap pillows, the plans are easily modified to fit their dimensions.
Estimated Time Investment
Week Long Project (20 Hours or More)
Finish Used
behr weatherproofing solid color, slate.

A narrow roller was a life saver in getting between all of the boards on the seat.
Recommended Skill Level
Beginner

Comments

marylowry

Wed, 04/06/2016 - 06:34

This looks really great! You have inspired me to stop procrastinating and get started on our outdoor sectional. Every time I think about doing it the building part seems fun but, I'm overwhelmed by the task/cost of the cushions. I'm interested in learning more about the fill you used. Where did you find it and what was the approximate cost? Thanks and great work!

sheinerbock

Wed, 04/06/2016 - 11:02

This came out amazing!! I just finished my very first project using plans on here and have the bug to keep building more!!! An outdoor sectional is next on my list!! Great job it looks fantastic.

Gregbpsu

Wed, 06/29/2016 - 20:25

Whoops - sorry about that. This looks amazing, and the detail on the fabric is quite fantastic. I have been wanting to replace some old furniture that is falling apart, and this would really be a wonderful addition to the outdoor space. Kudos on the great work. 

Loft Cabin Bunk Bed

Best Christmas present according to my 4-year-old twins :)  I combined ideas from Jen Woodhouse's "cabin bed" and "loft cabin bed" after seeing another brag post from someone who had turned it into a bunk bed.  I added a separate platform for the lower mattress for uniformity and to provide some air circulation for the mattress.  I also opted for a 2x6 as the bottom weight-bearing beam because I wanted to be able to add an extra couple pocket screws since this mama likes to play in the top bunk too!  My girls took turns sleeping in the top/bottom for the first 2 nights, and have been camping out together in the top bunk ever since... and my husband and I are finally getting to sleep in on the weekends because they never want to come out of their room!  

 

**Side note -- I'm not sure how my pictures got flipped but I have no idea how to fix it!

Built from Plan(s)
Finish Used
3 coats of white primer + paint in satin finish for the main house
Varathane weathered grey for roof & stairs
Rustoleum "Chalked" in charcoal for window trim

Comments

Twinkies' mom

Fri, 10/02/2020 - 09:33

I am SO sorry but I haven't been on here since I posted the bunkbeds (almost 9 months ago!) I had written out all of my modified measurements on the Jen Woodhouse plans but have since lost it somewhere in my garage :( Here is what I can tell you at the moment: short side of "front" & "back" panels = 77.25" ; I kept the angles on the sides/roof the same, so the highest point of roof = 89" (I have short 8' ceilings so this leaves ~7" space up top). I used what I believe were 5" tongue & groove flooring panels instead of plywood for all sides, framed by 2x4s and 2x6 underneath for a little extra support. The height from the bottom of the top bunk to the floor is 38", and I added a 2x6 piece between the bottom legs of the 2 side pieces, flush with the outside edge. I built a rectangular frame for the bottom mattress using 2x6" on the long sides and 2x4 on the short sides -- the 2x4s are raised off the floor in order to allow for air circulation under the mattress and act as the end slats (they're flush on top with the rest of the slats, which I used 2x4s instead of the 1x in the plans)... instead of the 2x2 supports for the mattresses I used some scrap 2x3s from my kids old toddler beds which I had also built but tried to recycle as much of the wood as I could for this project, plus the 2x6 gave me a little more wiggle room -- if you use 2x4 you won't have space for 2x3 supports. The front "door" opening is 22.75", which I based on my size and me being able to get in and out easily (as mentioned above, I like to camp out with my kids sometimes!). The window openings are 12" w x 13.5" h, but the height is measured after I made a 1x3" window ledge which is flush with the inside of the wall; the rest of the windows are framed with 1x2s and 1x3s.
The full width of the side panels is 38" and the front/back are 78.5" -- I based these on the mattresses which I had already bought (Novaform twin from Costco -- since they're memory foam they're a little easier to "squeeze" in the top bunk than I would imagine a regular mattress would be).

I think that covers everything, sorry again about replying so late!

Twinkies' mom

Fri, 10/02/2020 - 09:42

2 more things:
The bottom "frame" was meant to be removable for easy assembly/disassembly as my family moves a lot! That is why I used the inner 2x4s to hold the long side rails together, and the short-side 2x6s which are attached to the side frames are merely fore the illusion that it's all one piece. I did place a couple 2.5" screws through the inside of the 2x4s right into the legs of the upper bunk to make sure it stays in place.
When building the front panels with the windows, I decided on door opening first, then window opening (based on the size of the tongue & groove flooring), then calculated the width of all the pieces to create the window opening. I used pocked holes to connect the tongue & groove flooring to the "frame" created by the 2x4 pieces, and TONS of wood glue in between the boards. Adding the window frames with glue & nails helped provide a little more stability to the windows, although once the glue was dry there was zero movement around the window but I never know with my extremely-destructive twins! Now they're able to climb all over the bunk using the window ledge for support and it's no problem.

Modified farmhouse California king

Submitted by bechokoy on Tue, 05/15/2012 - 23:10

Sorry the the photos were taken from my phone so the lighting is making it look darker than it really is.
Basically I followed the plans to a T other than the poplar trim and crown molding.
For the head board I Used 3/4" red birch ply and made some stiles with excess from the sheet and then just trimmed it with poplar molding. instead of stacking 2 2x4 for the sides i just used a solid 4x4 and cut the spot out to old the rails on. I was afraid how the stain would react or how it would look since 2x4 have rounded edges. Thats pretty much it. The finish was a tricky process. since I used red birch and white poplar I had to find a way to get everything to stain evenly. So basically I
Dyed all the wood then sealed then stained then toner then glaze then a little more toner then when i got the color i wanted i put 2 layers of top coat.

Estimated Cost
400
Estimated Time Investment
Week Long Project (20 Hours or More)
Finish Used
Ml campbell stain and dye
Recommended Skill Level
Intermediate

Comments

gugsisreal (not verified)

Thu, 05/17/2012 - 03:41

That is one of the most beautiful finishes I have ever seen on this site.

jdlemmons

Thu, 05/17/2012 - 11:38

I'm doing a bed very similar to this... but i'm only doing 2 larger panels rather than 4 like you have. How do you the insides of the panels? Quarter round and then crown molding? I was thinking I would attach the trim on top of the plywood and then just attach some quarter round on the inside to round it and make it stand out a little more.

Matthew Betts (not verified)

Thu, 05/17/2012 - 17:00

I didn't use any round(but that is the idea to hide the ugly plywood layers that are exposed when cut). Its just 2 3/4 x3/4" whitewood/poplar casing that I had left over from a project i was working on. the frame of the squares was 3/4" birch ply so the casing laid nice and flush with it so it looked nice. the trick is to get the stiles(the frame of the squares to lay flat against the plywood backing other wise the casing won't lay even all the way around.
heres a link to the casing i used
http://www.lowes.com/pd_105664-81562-OML14-7FTWHW_4294801993_4294937087…

heres the link to the crown that i used on the top
http://www.lowes.com/pd_105626-81562-1069-8FTWHW_4294801991_4294937087_…

the trim stuff at the box places are considered paint grade and don't take stain very well. its easiest to paint if you don't have the right setup to finish things. and if you are going to stain I recommend a product called timbermate its stainable wood filler its hard to get but its amazing stuff it blows the minwax stuff out of the water.

Modern Adirondack Chair, Super Sized

Submitted by Anonymous (not verified) on Fri, 08/21/2020 - 10:39

Am a big fan of Ana's work, and have used several of her plans in prior builds including the more traditional Adirondack chairs. Those stayed with my old house, and I wanted something different for my new house. Really liked her Modern Adirondack design with the floating arm rest. However, plans are like recipes to me--a guideline. I wanted the back boards to run up and down, and I am a bit more robust than the lovely and petite Ms. White, so they would need to be wider after I built the first one at 19 1/2" wide per plan. The next three I made 22" wide and that worked well without throwing off the geometry and angles of the other parts. Since I ran the backboards up and down, I needed some cross beams for stability and to give an attachment point for the middle of the boards. Cut some 2x4s at 15" wide, drilled pocket holes in both ends, and attached in between the back supports with the pockets facing up to be hidden by the back boards. All of the 2x4s were leftover cut-offs from the houses being built in my neighborhood. Since the frames were free, I splurged and went with cedar boards for the backs and bottoms. With the wider frames, I had to use 1x12s ripped down to 10 3/4" to get the right look (about a board's width in between). Needed some color, so I painted the frames Teal Seaglass from Menards. Cedar was stained with a natural deck stain from Sherwin Williams. I experimented with salt paint (mixing unsanded grout with the paint) to give a heavily textured and weathered finish but this was unecessary--the wood was distressed enough and I am a terrible painter. It also toned down the color so I skipped that step and just went with 2 coats of plain paint. It looks like outdoor furniture should up close. As always, am pleased with Ana's plans. Thank you for doing all the hard work!

Estimated Cost
about $200 for all 4 chairs due to cedar and paint
Estimated Time Investment
Weekend Project (10-20 Hours)
Finish Used
Paint - Pittsburgh matte exterior with Dutch Boy coloring Teal Seaglass
Stain - Sherwin Williams Superdeck stain, Natural finish
Recommended Skill Level
Starter Project

Comments

Seasonal And Holiday

Farmhouse X Desk

Submitted by Jeremysj on Thu, 10/15/2020 - 10:59

I built the Farmhouse X Desk with full extension drawers instead of shelves.

Built from Plan(s)
Estimated Cost
$125
Estimated Time Investment
Weekend Project (10-20 Hours)
Finish Used
White cabinet & furniture paint and dark walnut stain for the top. Finished the top with several coats of Minwax polycrylic.
Recommended Skill Level
Intermediate

Mahogany Double Pedestal Farmhouse Dining Table

Submitted by ekmoy on Sat, 11/29/2014 - 15:54

I decided to build a dining table after finding Ana's site and being encouraged from the straight forward plans and great brag posts.  Thank you for the encouragement, Ana!

This project took much longer than anticipated since we changed around the plans, used mahogany which is unforgiving, and I'm a bit of a perfectionist so we spent a lot of time on each step to make sure things were correct.  In terms of modifications, we used 1x12, 1x10 and 1x8s on the table top.  We only made two pedestal legs so we could fit chairs on the end.  The overall dimensions are 96.5" x 46.5" x 29".  We kind of fell into those dimensions after having to change things to make sure the breadboards fit properly.

I'm happy to share any additional plans/information with folks who want to build a similar table.  We didn't use a stain but rather just 3 coats of MinWax Wipe-On Poly.  It really brought out the beauty of the grain and color of the wood!

Thank you again, Ana!  I hope future generations will keep this table and think it's cool that their family made it.  I'm planning to have a plaque engraved with our names and the date to attach to the table as well.  

Built from Plan(s)
Estimated Cost
Since we used mahogany it was much more expensive. We spent ~$1700 on the wood alone, nevermind the tools etc.
Estimated Time Investment
Week Long Project (20 Hours or More)
Finish Used
MinWax Wipe-On Poly
Recommended Skill Level
Intermediate

Comments

Meljohnson

Fri, 05/22/2015 - 20:41

Out of all the pedestal table plan variations yours is my favourite. Not only because of the beautiful wood but I like your modification of the base the best. Can you tell me what is the inner width between the two pedestal legs? Also how many people can you comfortably fit around that table and how many can you squish around? If you have a moment to answer my questions, thanks so much.

Twin over full bunk bed with stairs

Submitted by Anonymous (not verified) on Sun, 01/03/2021 - 10:00

Liked the plan took way longer to sand and get everything cleaned up than it took to build.

1x3 slats for under the bed.

Made it extra high just full 8’ boards for the posts and added extra railing and dropped a 12” twin in.

It’s super sturdy, used scraps to add a headboard where the stairs are.

Turned out well

Comments

Adirondack chair from Pallets

Submitted by Anonymous (not verified) on Fri, 03/24/2017 - 19:42

I decided to try and use the plans on Ana's site but with a twist. I wanted to limit myself to using only pallets. I think it turned out great! I can't upload all the photos because they exceed the maximum size limit. If I was able to you could see how each chair is slightly different and has a lot of character. I finished them with a waterproofing oil which I highly recommend over other finishes. 

Estimated Cost
$10 for screws.
Estimated Time Investment
Afternoon Project (3-6 Hours)
Finish Used
Cabot oil
Recommended Skill Level
Beginner

Comments

Scrappy armoire

Submitted by Triskelle on Sun, 03/26/2017 - 22:13

Made this out of a ton of scrap wood I had laying around. On the downside it made the project more difficult, but on the upside all I had to buy was hinges and handles...

Built from Plan(s)
Estimated Cost
$20
Estimated Time Investment
Day Project (6-9 Hours)
Finish Used
Some off white paint I had lying around
Recommended Skill Level
Beginner

rustic vanity and mirror

Submitted by abbpim on Sat, 04/29/2017 - 11:21

I made this rustic vanity and mirror out of pine and stained it with a variety of different stains.

Recommended Skill Level
Intermediate

Sandbox w/ Built In Seats

Submitted by Anonymous (not verified) on Wed, 06/14/2017 - 07:30

I have built some other stuff before, but not with paint and sanding and such. It was definitely a great learning project. There are imperfections, but it's a toy, so kids will be having fun and that is all that matters.

Built from Plan(s)
Estimated Cost
$100... but, the paint will be used on other projects, and I paid for better boards for on top.
Estimated Time Investment
Weekend Project (10-20 Hours)
Recommended Skill Level
Beginner

Comments

DIY Backyard Climbing Gym

My very first woodworking project was Ana-White's farm house bed! I've made so many projects now, I decided to start fancy'ing up my backyard!. We took all pressure treated wood to make the wall foundation, painted it, sealed it, then used Screw on Holds to make the climbing portion.

I have a full tutorial listed here http://www.impatientlycrafty.com/2013/05/07/diy-backyard-climbing-wall/

Thanks Ana for helping inspire me to create more wood stuff!!!

Estimated Cost
$500
Estimated Time Investment
Weekend Project (10-20 Hours)
Finish Used
I painted with latex paint, and acrylic paint, then sealed it with rustoleum clear coat (4-5 coats)

we simply sketched out the design from ideas online..
Recommended Skill Level
Beginner

Kid's Playhouse and Slide

Submitted by docfin02 on Mon, 03/28/2011 - 18:56

I LOVE these plans. This was my first project, and although it was a big one to start with, the plans were easy to follow. If I can do it, anyone can. I added the rock wall. My kids and I love it. Total cost for me (including all lumber, nails, paint, slide, etc.) is about $850.

Estimated Cost
$850
Estimated Time Investment
Week Long Project (20 Hours or More)
Finish Used
1 coat primer, 2 coats paint
Recommended Skill Level
Intermediate
Seasonal And Holiday

Crib Mattress Wood Sectional

Submitted by Anonymous (not verified) on Thu, 11/09/2017 - 09:55

Submitted by Abigail Marolt on Facebook -

 

I made a your crib mattress sectional with an extra armless couch to make one large U-shaped design! It was my first project with a kreg jig and a circular saw, but it certainly won't be my last. We love using this couch every day!

Recommended Skill Level
Starter Project

Our new pantry

We bought a vacation home that has such a small kitchen. I knew we needed more storage. So I checked out Ana's plans and made this bad boy based on the Simplest Armoire plans.

The home is in the mountain/lakes area of northern New Hampshire, so I wanted to bring the outside colors in. I used Valspar Cabin Red paint and the Valspar Antiquing glaze over the top after distressing it a bit.

Built from Plan(s)
Estimated Cost
$200 +
Estimated Time Investment
Weekend Project (10-20 Hours)
Finish Used
Valspar Cabin Red paint
Valspar Antiquing glaze
Recommended Skill Level
Beginner

Traditional Toddler Bed with a few changes

Submitted by GhostLake on Mon, 07/22/2013 - 10:26

This was basically my first ever wood working project. It didn't turn out perfect but I had fun doing it and my daughter likes it too! It isn't done yet, still need to figure out the color of paint I'm going to use.

Built from Plan(s)
Estimated Cost
~35 for lumber, Kreg jig, screws, paint additional
Finish Used
Not finished yet.
Recommended Skill Level
Beginner

Comments

Toy Armoire

I adjusted the height of the armoire to 72 inches. It was a little tricky getting the doors to hang straight. I blame the new driveway; we just moved into a new house with a sloped driveway (our old one was super flat). I got the hardware at Lowe's. I also added a block of wood at the top, on the inside, to mount the door catches. I mounted them on the top and bottom on both doors, so four catches total. That really helped with the way the doors looked when closed.

Built from Plan(s)
Estimated Cost
$100
Estimated Time Investment
Weekend Project (10-20 Hours)
Finish Used
I used Minwax Dark Walnut with Minwax Satin Polyurethane. Two coats of each.
Recommended Skill Level
Intermediate
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