Community Brag Posts

We built this in early 2013. We ended up turning the house 90 degrees on the deck, because the slide worked best off the backside of the deck due to the various heights around the deck. The sloped back yard caused some challenges, but in the end it's a very sturdy deck with the cross beams attached. Thanks for posting these plans online for us, our 3 daughters are loving the playhouse and swingset! Here are some more pics of the project: http://www.flickr.com/photos/11031534@N00/sets/72157633009259873/

I built this amazing green house following your plans!  My wife and I moved our family from the city to an amazing 5 acre homestead out in the country here in Wisconsin. We are super happy that we will be able to keep our new garden going longer!  Thanks so much for the plans!

I recently published my first foldable farmhouse table last week here: http://ana-white.com/2013/06/foldable-farmhouse-table The first one I made was very heavy because I used 2x6 tops and 4x4 legs. I decided to make another one that would be lighter and easier to transport. The plans are basically the same just instead I used 1x6 for the top and put 2x4s together for the legs. I also shorted the length by about a foot. The only issue with making the table shorter length is that the legs don't fold completely flush. You could easily make the legs short enough to fold flush, but then the table was a little too short from the ground up for us. The same as before I simply used kreg joints to join the top boards together. I then made a 2x4 frame and attached it to the bottom. I made each of the legs separately by joining 2x4s together and sanding everything down. Everything was stained before putting the legs on using Miniwax Dark walnut stain. I used 2 coats of Miniwax water based clear coat to seal it. A notch was cut out on each of the bottom 2x4 supports on the legs and I glued in a small piece of wood cut to size. These are so I can put in a 2x4 support board under the table so that the legs do not fold in on themselves when it is standing up. The legs are just attached using door hinges you can buy in packs in the hardware section. Be careful when screwing into the 1x6 top not to use too long of screws or else you will over screw and have them come through into your table top. Table design was by Amber Veatch Designs and photographed by Andi Mans Photography

I read and studied every comment and brag post about this shed. I must have read the plans a hundred times before I got up the courage to tackle it. It’s a very attractive and affordable shed design. I thought a double wide version would be perfect for our long, narrow side yard, and it is! I mostly stuck to the plans except for a few things. I made it 10” taller overall so there would be plenty of head clearance under the doorway. That was a very easy modification. I used 2x4s for the walls instead of 2x2s because we have high winds in our area. That modification was a little bit more challenging, but I planned it out and it worked! Also I used 2x6s for the headers instead of 2x4s. I also added 2x4s at the thresholds because I couldn’t image making it stay square without them. I basically made two sheds joined by a common wall in the center. I did not increase the depth, mostly because I was afraid to mess with the angles and how that would change the pitch of the roof. Joining two sheds together meant that I didn’t have to put the exterior pickets on the middle wall. But it also meant that I had to build 4 doors. Yuck. They were difficult to get lined up and level, but I was amazed it actually worked and that all the doors operate properly and smoothly. I was questioning the wisdom of my decision to do 4 doors while I was in the thick of it, but now that all the work is done, I love that I can open all 4 doors and have easy access to absolutely everything in the shed. Very convenient! I told my dad I was building a shed and he recommend that I add cross braces. It seemed sturdy enough without them but it certainly can’t hurt. My dad knows everything about building and I know nothing, so I took his recommendation. If I were to do this again, I would overlap the cedar pickets by 1” instead of ½”. My pickets were not quite wide enough. I could swear they shrunk after I applied the stain/uv protection. I used liquid nails along each lap but it didn’t hold. Where the glue DID hold tight, the wood split lengthwise. Anyway, for whatever reason, gaps appeared and I spent a fortune on clear silicon applied on the interior walls to make it water tight. I had to keep going back for “just one more tube.” So with hind sight I would have been better off just buying a few more pickets and increasing the overlap. Another thing I might do is make it deeper. I decided against it initially because I was worried that increasing the depth would make it flimsy. Now I don’t think that would be a problem. This shed is sturdy. I can’t say thank you enough. Great plans and a great website! I am completely hooked.

Loving this furniture! We modified it slightly by raising the height of the couches. Added some height and a slight tilt in the back. The chairs are super comfortable as the plans are done. We used 6” 25x25 cushions. We plan on staining soon.