veggie storage
I loved this plan. It was my first build from Ana White plans and a true jumping off point for my imagination. I used pine boards, matte red underneath and semi-gloss white top coat. Steel wool was my tool for the distressing.
I loved this plan. It was my first build from Ana White plans and a true jumping off point for my imagination. I used pine boards, matte red underneath and semi-gloss white top coat. Steel wool was my tool for the distressing.
Loving this furniture! We modified it slightly by raising the height of the couches. Added some height and a slight tilt in the back. The chairs are super comfortable as the plans are done. We used 6” 25x25 cushions. We plan on staining soon.
Jaime Sallis
This was my first project building something from this site. I absolutely love it! We didnt add the X's because the miter saw was at my dad's house, which I was kind of sad about, but I think it still looks good. Not too bad for mine and my husbands first build!
Since developing a love for woodworking I’ve began building things for other people. This particular bed frame I built for a couple who are rebuilding their home after it unfortunately burned down. It’s a beautiful farmhouse home out in the country, and this bed frame fits perfectly in their new home.
This was my first woodworking project in a couple years. I modified the size to make it about 60" on each side. Now that I am working from home now due to COVID-19 for the foreseeable future this has been perfect to use in order to have two monitors and enough room on the sides for other work.
Sun, 05/31/2020 - 19:39
Looks awesome! What stain did you use for the top?
Mon, 12/14/2020 - 14:08
can you tell me how you attached the two desk together? I have a lady wanting me to build an L shaped Fancy X desk, but I'm not sure how to attach without it sagging.
"I still can’t believe my mom and I built this beautiful fireplace.” - Megan Shaffer on Instagram
We have a small rustic cabin that needed a clean, functional outhouse. We followed Ana's plans, but with a few modifications to include a Solar gray polycarbonate roof to let in light. We also decided on cedar board & batten for the siding. We look forward to many years of use.
Garage Lockers in different sizes.
Dale Smith
Ana thank you for these plans! My second ever woodworking project and love adirondack chairs.
Perfect for my small Brooklyn backyard :)
Mon, 05/25/2020 - 11:47
It's beautiful! I love the wood tone in your setting! Thanks so much for trusting us to build our plans!
Wed, 05/27/2020 - 05:34
You made it so clear and easy! Especially the video/
Will build another one to make it a pair soon :)
Loved the plans from the site Ana! I got inspired seeing all the lovely play kitchens that everyone had created! Thought I'd share the one I've made for my little one as well, she loves it!
I used wood from an older Ana white project of a loft bed my daughter had out grown. I liked the look of Ana's Mom bed but wanted storage so I modified the plans slightly. I will add drawers later.
We wanted a simple loveseat that used standard-sized cushions (that I found at target.com) that we could put on our narrow screened-in porch. The cushions were about twice the cost of the lumber! I modified the plan by changing the outsides from 2x3's to 2x4's and I made decorative panels of our State's flag using a stencil I created from an image on the Internet. I then cut the stencil out, marked it and cut it out using a scroll saw. The pattern is on 1/4' plywood framed in with 1 x 2's on the sides and 1/2" quarter round on the tops and bottoms of the patterns on both sides. This was fun and quick to build and it met our needs perfectly! I'm even designing some matching end tables for it! Since we're in Charleston, SC we used a color called "Charleston Green", it's nearly black but in bright sun you can see a little green. We barely get to use it though as the cat has taken it over! Thanks for a great plan!
We wanted to make our daughter a play kitchen for her birthday. We have a farmhouse sink so we wanted her to have one just like ours. My husband built it out of wood. We wanted the cabinets to look like Shaker cabinets so we added trim to them & the Fridge. We bought the handles from Home Depot. If you have any questions I will be happy to answer them.
Despite relatively high ceilings, we have a small, pantryless kitchen and needed more shelf space. Couldn't be happier with how this turned out. Besides taking off 2 inches in width to make sure it would fit in the space, I followed the measurements exactly.
Made just one modification with the instructions involving the face frame. I first assembled it together per the instructions, but it was just not lining up with the carcass well at all when I went to attach it. Before the glue got too dry, I made the quick decision to take the face frame apart and just apply the individual pieces of it one at a time to the carcass. I figured this could maybe leave some very small gaps where the face frame pieces joined each other, but that seemed better than what it would look like leaving it as is, with almost no section flush with the carcass. This ended up being the absolutely right choice. Everything was very very close to flush and there ended up being virtually no gaps. If I ever built again, I would do the same and attach each piece like that.
My only other struggle was at the very end attaching the barn door hardware. Nothing wrong with the hardware or the instructions, I just ended up installing the rail too high up on my first attempt. Because this piece has a top that slightly overhangs and gives that nice little lip, it means there is a maximum height which you can't go above when installing the rail hardware. If you go too high, like I did, the rollers that are attached to the door will physically not fit on the rail, b/c that lip will be in the way. This might be very obvious to most people but I thought I'd mention it. Once things clicked, I just had to get some new measurements and redrill the holes a bit lower(but not too low b/c then you will have a gap!).
I decided to leave the door natural wood after seeing someone else's finished piece posted here and given how dark my stain was, I also left the plywood back panel natural. It's still a bit light now and it may even take 2 or 3 years, but I know pine can do a decent job darkening up.
Lastly, I did put a whole quart of satin polyurethane on this over 5 coats. Each coat but the last was cut with %50-%25 paint thinner applied with a foam brush. Yes it did take a long time but seeing it up close, it was absolutely worth it. I would recommend it for anyone making this project.
Mon, 12/21/2020 - 13:29
It looks like you made an excellent choice, love the two tone finish too! Thanks for sharing:)
Built this using Anna White's "MIMI'S FAUX MANTLE" but instead of using crown molding I elected to use STONE TILES in neutral tones and finished the surround and mantle in white giving the piece a nice soft appeal. The building plans were easy to follow and took about 2 days to complete the whole process (because of drying times) not to mention how reasonable the cost was. I already had the tiles, adhesive, and paint from left over projects.
My Biggest build so far. We have a large living room and needed something large for that wall. I really had fun on this one. It took longer than I wanted but in the end, I’m really proud I finished. This was my first time to use the router and learned how build shaker style doors. -Instagram.com/theorthfam
Awesome Tree Swing built in about an hour! Super easy plans to follow. Two quotes of Stain and Three coats of exterior Poly!
THE MOTIVATION
After a recent washer outage (that I was ultimately able to repair myself), my wife and I talked about eventually replacing our front-loading washer/dryer set. One of the bullets I hate biting is paying the exhorbitant prices for the matching pedestals for new washer/dryer sets.
Having just bought a good set of cordless powertools, and having watched my father when I was a kid build countless household fixtures, window dressings, furniture pieces, etc., I decided to try my hand and construct a permanent platform for our current washer/dryer set, thereby eliminating the need to ever buy manufacturer pedestals again.
The existing pedestals were a standard 15" high, with a storage drawer, which we felt was still not high enough for comfort. And, the washer pedestal drawer was entirely inaccessibl due to the 2" walls on the washer drain pan, so its drawer was totally useless, wasted space.
And, lastly, we really wanted more space for clothes baskets full of laundry, which we generally stacked (full and haphazardly) on top of the machines.
THE CHALLENGES
The largest challenges were mainly logistics, and gravity. The washer/dryer would have to be unavailable for at least 2-3 days while they sat disconnected in the next room waiting for their new home. So I coordinated with the family so they'd know when they needed to have their laundry done, or tough it out until I was done.
There was no way to know for sure what the drain connection for the washer pan looked like until I got the washer out. So it was a small gamble that I'd be able to get the parts needed to extend the drain pipe up to the new platform right when I was ready for them. Fortunately, this was no issue at all.
The biggest challenge turned out to be toward the end when it came time to lift our 230-lb. washer onto the new platform. I seriously considered disassembling the washer to the point that I could remove its molded concrete counter-weights, but instead (and arguably stupidly) elected to use a large hydraulic car jack to raise the washer. This ultimately worked, but I have to STRONGLY ADVISE AGAINST trying this.
THE SPACE
Our laundry room is also the "mud room" between our kitchen and the garage. It is only large enough for the two machines, and the walk way between the two doors--in total, about 70.5" square. Building the platform from wall-to-wall made the most sense, and minimized framing by fastening edge framing directly to the wall studs.
THE PLAN
Pretty basic: 2x4's all around for the edge framing--back and sides fastened directly to the wall studs, and front 2x4 supported by two, notched 4x4 legs. 3/4" plywood for the subsurface, and 1/4" laminate faux-wood flooring on top (left over from reflooring, so it matches the floor below). Bore holes for the washer pan drain and the dryer vent. 1" quarter-round molding on the sides, and 5.5" face piece flush with the top of the molding across the front (spare lauan I had looks perfect). I also made a point of putting the machines on the platform before the face piece since it might have been in the way or damaged.
Anyone will tell you that it's best to at least sketch out what you want to do so you can minimize surprises, forgotten parts, etc. I, of course, did virtually none of that, and made several course changes and corrections along the way. For this project, I was lucky that I didn't need to backtrack at any point, and probably won't learn this lesson any time soon anyway. However, you SHOULD.
TAKE-AWAYS
The main mistake I made was while gathering the platform dimensions for cutting the plywood. It was only blind luck that kept me from having to do it more than once (and having to buy more than one 4x8 sheet). I know that it's actually very unlikely that two adjacent walls are perfectly square, so I made a point to measure the width between the walls at the back and at the front--and, sure enough, found a 1/8" difference--wider at the front. But when I measured and marked the plywood for cutting, I measured both distances from the precut edge, and then cut. By doing this, I inadvertently assumed that one of the back corners was perfectly square.
What I should have done was used a carpenter's square in each back corner to extend a square line from the back edge to the front, and then measured from the square lines to their respective side wall. This would have accounted for neither back corner being square.
Fortunately, my mistake wasn't big enough to keep the plywood from fitting, but it was very, VERY close.
GIDDY
I honestly couldn't be happier with the finished project (or more smug). We've raised the washer/dryer 9" higher than they were (24" off the floor), and we now have basket storage underneath all the way across. I placed two 24" plastic cabinets on top, which still leaves room for the detergent right over the soap inlet on the washer.
And, most importantly, I got to use every powertool I own. Kinda beats "the quick brown fox jumped over the lazy dog" thing, huh?
Fri, 04/17/2015 - 19:54
Thanks for sharing the ins and outs of your project! Looks great!
We wanted a farmhouse dining table but didn't want to be confined by 4 corner legs or supports at the end of the table so I combined the farmhouse top from this site with another farmhouse table base that I found at shanty2chic through a link on this site. We couldn't be happier with how it turned out! I didn't follow any of the plans exactly but adjusted them so we had a table that fit well in our dining room, still fit several guests and was a good eating height. The bench was also modified from the plans I found at shanty 2 chic.
Wed, 04/29/2015 - 12:28
Here is a link to the plans I used for the table base: http://www.shanty-2-chic.com/2014/05/restoration-hardware-inspired-dini…
And for the bench: http://www.shanty-2-chic.com/2014/06/diy-benches-for-my-dining-table.ht…
I made some modifications to the table length/width to fit our dining room space better which is just a matter of preference. I then changed the length of the bench to fit our table. Other than those small changes which didn't effect the integrity of the plans, these are what I went by.
Wed, 04/29/2015 - 13:34
Thank you so much! This is exactly what we've been looking for. I love that the legs/base are completely under the table so not to interrupt or block causing wasted space.
Fri, 05/08/2015 - 14:56
We are going to build this same table for our house. I'm curious where the chair came from that you used with the table? Thanks!
I LOVE these plans. This was my first project, and although it was a big one to start with, the plans were easy to follow. If I can do it, anyone can. I added the rock wall. My kids and I love it. Total cost for me (including all lumber, nails, paint, slide, etc.) is about $850.
I built this in an afternoon and painted the next day. It was quite fun. BIG TIP!!! Paint BEFORE you build!