Community Brag Posts

THE MOTIVATION
After a recent washer outage (that I was ultimately able to repair myself), my wife and I talked about eventually replacing our front-loading washer/dryer set.  One of the bullets I hate biting is paying the exhorbitant prices for the matching pedestals for new washer/dryer sets.

Having just bought a good set of cordless powertools, and having watched my father when I was a kid build countless household fixtures, window dressings, furniture pieces, etc., I decided to try my hand and construct a permanent platform for our current washer/dryer set, thereby eliminating the need to ever buy manufacturer pedestals again.

The existing pedestals were a standard 15" high, with a storage drawer, which we felt was still not high enough for comfort.  And, the washer pedestal drawer was entirely inaccessibl due to the 2" walls on the washer drain pan, so its drawer was totally useless, wasted space.

And, lastly, we really wanted more space for clothes baskets full of laundry, which we generally stacked (full and haphazardly) on top of the machines.

THE CHALLENGES
The largest challenges were mainly logistics, and gravity.  The washer/dryer would have to be unavailable for at least 2-3 days while they sat disconnected in the next room waiting for their new home.  So I coordinated with the family so they'd know when they needed to have their laundry done, or tough it out until I was done.

There was no way to know for sure what the drain connection for the washer pan looked like until I got the washer out.  So it was a small gamble that I'd be able to get the parts needed to extend the drain pipe up to the new platform right when I was ready for them.  Fortunately, this was no issue at all.

The biggest challenge turned out to be toward the end when it came time to lift our 230-lb. washer onto the new platform.  I seriously considered disassembling the washer to the point that I could remove its molded concrete counter-weights, but instead (and arguably stupidly) elected to use a large hydraulic car jack to raise the washer.  This ultimately worked, but I have to STRONGLY ADVISE AGAINST trying this.

THE SPACE
Our laundry room is also the "mud room" between our kitchen and the garage.  It is only large enough for the two machines, and the walk way between the two doors--in total, about 70.5" square.  Building the platform from wall-to-wall made the most sense, and minimized framing by fastening edge framing directly to the wall studs. 

THE PLAN
Pretty basic:  2x4's all around for the edge framing--back and sides fastened directly to the wall studs, and front 2x4 supported by two, notched 4x4 legs.  3/4" plywood for the subsurface, and 1/4" laminate faux-wood flooring on top (left over from reflooring, so it matches the floor below).  Bore holes for the washer pan drain and the dryer vent.  1" quarter-round molding on the sides, and 5.5" face piece flush with the top of the molding across the front (spare lauan I had looks perfect).  I also made a point of putting the machines on the platform before the face piece since it might have been in the way or damaged.

Anyone will tell you that it's best to at least sketch out what you want to do so you can minimize surprises, forgotten parts, etc.  I, of course, did virtually none of that, and made several course changes and corrections along the way.  For this project, I was lucky that I didn't need to backtrack at any point, and probably won't learn this lesson any time soon anyway.  However, you SHOULD.

TAKE-AWAYS
The main mistake I made was while gathering the platform dimensions for cutting the plywood.  It was only blind luck that kept me from having to do it more than once (and having to buy more than one 4x8 sheet).  I know that it's actually very unlikely that two adjacent walls are perfectly square, so I made a point to measure the width between the walls at the back and at the front--and, sure enough, found a 1/8" difference--wider at the front.  But when I measured and marked the plywood for cutting, I measured both distances from the precut edge, and then cut.  By doing this, I inadvertently assumed that one of the back corners was perfectly square. 

What I should have done was used a carpenter's square in each back corner to extend a square line from the back edge to the front, and then measured from the square lines to their respective side wall.  This would have accounted for neither back corner being square.

Fortunately, my mistake wasn't big enough to keep the plywood from fitting, but it was very, VERY close.

GIDDY
I honestly couldn't be happier with the finished project (or more smug).  We've raised the washer/dryer 9" higher than they were (24" off the floor), and we now have basket storage underneath all the way across.  I placed two 24" plastic cabinets on top, which still leaves room for the detergent right over the soap inlet on the washer.

And, most importantly, I got to use every powertool I own.  Kinda beats "the quick brown fox jumped over the lazy dog" thing, huh?

I used Ana's plan as a base.

I changed it from 8x8 to 8x12, made the 4x4x8's to 4x4x10' for a higher main platform and swing platform, and added a 12' long monkey bar set to the other side. Also, an 8' climbing wall and a plank walkway to accompany the two slides.

For the clubhouse, I used Hardiplank 4x8 sheets for the siding and an EZ-Framer kit for the structure itself.

The slides I purchased from Lowes, monkey bars from Amazon, and the swing frame braces from Amazon as well. The swing kits I got from ebay.

We used old dock wood for the surface of our X table for a nice beach house beverage center (sand bar!).  We adjusted the size to fit our space (a little longer and wider) and used additional studs for the shelves instead of 1" shelving, glued and PH/PS together.  To cut the X pieces I just held the 1x1 on the end of the table where it goes and marked the lines. Then I clamped a guide board at the correct angle on the table saw to make all the cuts, starting a bit long and shaving off until it just fit.  

With all the pocket holes and screws I wouldn't consider this a beginner project. Some additional steps and pictures in your description would help also.  End result is really nice.

Thanks for the shed plans, I've been looking all over for something like this. I used 3/8" ply wood for the back wall to save money but spent what was saved and more on the shingles and stain/seal. I made the shed exactly 6' wide and 4' deep to fit the 6 2'x2's patio slabs.
The entire project took about 2 weeks to complete and cost about $700. We pay more in Canada but at least I finally got the shed I wanted.

I wanted to create a loft bed for my daughter so that she could have space underneath to play since her room is small. This was the perfect solution! I went ahead and added a stair rail so she could feel a little safer coming down the stairs (she is 4 yrs old). She loves her princess bed and what's best she wants to sleep in it instead of with mommy and daddy! This was my first wood working project. 

This was my first time using my own measurements for an Ana White build. I was really nervous but having completed a few other projects by following plans exactly, I felt confident I had gained the skill to branch out of my comfort zone. I had been looking at coffee bars for my kitchen, but at $300 and up, cheaply made and in the wrong dimensions,. I just knew I could build something with better quality for a portion of the price. This project took me half a day to build the carcass and then another afternoon to figure out the door hardware and stain. I used all 1 x boards and the final bar is 12" wide so I used 1 x 12 boards for everything except the trim.  All in all you could complete it in a few hours, it was really simple. I made the door hardware by popping open two pulleys and attaching them with metal somethings (not sure what they are) that I found at Lowes. I then ran a flat bar across the front using spacers like Ana did in hers. I painted the hardware with Rustoleum Oil Rubbed Bronze spray paint and stained the top of the bar with Minewax Dark Walnut, the bottom is Minewax Ebony. I still need to poly. One thing I changed up was the top. Instead of using a piece of plywood, pine, or combining pieces together, I used a stair tread! It was a little thicker than a typical 1 x, and also had a rounded edge which I think gives the piece a finished look! This is a piece of furniture I will truly use every single day and I couldn't be happier with how it turned out! The grand total? $60 for the wood and $20 for the hardware. $80 all in all (I had the stain leftover from another project). There's no way I could have bought a piece this nice for that price! 

This was my second project from the site. I wanted somewhere to read my book on the back deck. This chair is perfect. When I get tired of reading I can lay it down and take a nap. It is very sturdy and easy to put together. I do recommend using pocket holes to assemble it. I found it much easier.

This is my favorite build so far! My two younger daughters share a room with an inevitable shortage of floor space. What they do have is a fairly large closet for 1 and 3 year old. I removed the crumby sliding doors and filled the bottom third of the space with the dresser, leaving plenty of room for kids clothes to hang above. I combined two separate plans and adjusted the measurements to fit the space. What I ended up with is a monstrous 6 drawer dresser that I would never have room for in the bedroom otherwise. The drawers are enormous (a must for a house with three little girls. They have more clothes than their mother and father combined).

I took the frame concept from the Shanty2Chic rustic rolling dresser and the drawer concept from the Madison dresser from Old Paint Design. (Thanks Ladies!) It took me some significant math adjustments (I'm not a math guy) in order to alter the drawers for wood slides, alter the frame to fit that, and alter both to fit the 70 3/4" x 24" space.

The finish took the most time with a bizarre mixing of Rustoleum Dark Walnut and Rustoleum Classic Cherry. I love the color now. Clearly I have not fixed the wall paint yet :)

The wood is big box pine as I am still working up the confidence to work with more expensive wood. The top is 1x12's and 1x2's. The sides (hidden) are 3/4" plywood. The hardware is from Lowes.

My daughters were nice enough to decorate the dresser during the build with crayon requiring a 40 grit sanding Grrrr.

My parents needed a table for their newly expanded dining room at our cabin. I love the look of butcher-block, and wondered how I could design a table with the thick chunky look. I decided on using 4x4's for the majority of the build. This project took me a while to complete because in the middle of it, I twisted my ankle while lifting the table! Ha, building can cause some damage. Although, the ankle did slow me down, I was still able to deliver the table and benches to the cabin in time to give it to them for their anniversary present.

I tripped over some boards in my attic a few times before I realized how perfect they would be for my island! I planed, biscuited, poly'ed the boards and, along with a few other modifications, tada!! My new island! Love it. Now I just gotta get over the "new car smell" long enough to actually use it!