Community Brag Posts

I made these from select Pine, they were super easy to do, look great and I love that I can change the pictures up easily.

Needed a kitchen island and loved this plan when I found it on your website. I have tools to cut the lumber but thought I would let Lowes cut the lumber to save me some time. Ha! Made small corrections with what you need like just 2 2x4s to make the 4 legs. Like Ana said, it's all about math. Thank you for the plans. Friends already wanting me to make one for them, ha. Ps...my dad is sold now on the kreg jig!

I followed the plans except for the top, I used a 2x12, 2x4 and 2x12 pocket holes together.

Burnt the wood with a torch and stained over.

Thanks for the plans!

Questions? [email protected]

I used 1x2 boards for this project. The smaller tree is the size according to plans (minus the coat rack). For the larger tree, I added 3.5 inches to each piece. 1/4 plywood on the back and used a stencil for the design. I love the way it turned out.

I liked Sausha's original design of the washer and dryer pedestals, but I wanted to add a few little personalized touches to it.

First, rather than using MDF, I went with plywood because of cost and weight. Also, I chose not to fill in the imperfections of the surface of the plywood. The top piece will be covered by the washer and dryer, and the bottom piece will be covered by baskets, etc. I like the look of the imperfections, as well.

Lastly, I spent an extra $10 on some additional cap molding for the base and the top, just to give it a more finished look. My wife chose white over black to fit the room better.

This was my first project and I am excited to build more!

have not put a stain on this yet, waiting to make a pair before doing that

Thank you so much for your plan. I made some small changes. I used pine wood for the box sides and dividers, I moved the drawer faces to the outside and used 1/2 inch plywood for the drawer boxes to add some more space. The drawer faces have an inlaid to match my farmhouse bedroom I am currently building. The final product was stained with Minwax Golden Pecan and clear coated with warm semi-gloss.

We followed the plans for the A-frame chicken coop very closely, and then modified it a bit at the end.

1. Trim was added to two doors on each side, as suggested. They are secured with latches at the top, more to keep them from falling open than to keep critters from getting in. We used 2x4x10's instead of 2x4x8's on the middle horizontal rail, giving us foot-long handles on each side. My husband and I are able to move the coop about 15 feet at a time, which is pretty good considering it is STURDY!

2. We used 1/2" galvanized hardware cloth instead of chicken wire, as suggested by one commenter (and lots of others in blogland).

3. I cut 1/4" plywood to fit the loft space and coated it with vinyl stick-on tile. This should make it easier to clean. We didn't screw down the plywood, so if we have to, we can remove it to hose it off/scrub it.

4. I cut a triangle of plywood to make an egg door at the end of the roost. It hinges at the bottom (with a 2x4 ripped into a 1x4 to cover the hardware cloth and provide a mounting spot for hinges) and latches at the top. I plan to use cotter pins or something to secure the latch. There is also a piece of untreated 1x4 held in place with tabs at the egg door to prevent bedding from falling out once it's converted to the nesting box (I'm planning to get pullets, not ready to lay yet, so they won't even have a tempting nest box)

5. There was no bottom door in the plans (to allow free-ranging), so I cut a piece of 2x4 to make a triangle against the bottom (same size as the egg door). It folds out (just like the egg door) and will allow the chickens easy access to the yard. We do have hawks in our neighborhood so free time will always be supervised. We also have a dog (who I coaxed into the coop for the main picture, haha!) who will need supervising. She's been around chickens before but you never know what will make her turn on them!

6. There was also no roost in the plans (although if you look at Ana's coop, there is a 2x4 across the middle of the side walls). I had a leftover closet rod, so I mounted that in the covered section parallel to the ladder. The ladder was shifted to the side. For the ladder, I just used a piece of cedar fencing and cut 2 48" dowels into 4 pieces each, and secured those with screws from the underside. I hope my chickens will be able to get up the ladder!

7. I also made a tube feeder from PVC and a dog bowl, and am working on a nipple waterer. Will update post when those are finished!

Now I just have to get some hens! I've been searching craigslist and can't wait!

easy

Kids stuff usually sells pretty good for us. Considering in our area, to buy kid size chairs are about $25 we looked for another option. This stackable chair fit the bill perfectly and was so inexpensive and easy to build!! Made the back part solid so I could paint on it and added some moulding on the side. Going to get my grandson who is being homeschooled, busy building some more as part of his wood shop class.

Herringbone Table

Thanks for the wonderful plans! This is my 2nd Ana White build (traditional turned leg, pottery barn desk). I used the legs from this build and then leveraged some tips from another blog for the herringbone top using 2 sheets of MDF as a base (http://www.southernrevivals.com/2014/06/tile-top-herringbone-table-make…). My herringbone table took some planning, as it is over 13' long. Now all of my family can eat together when we get together!