Little Crates
My first project where I made the whole thing by myself! My friend and I each loved this idea and so together we each made our own version! It was just what I needed for some bathroom beautifying in a small space!!
My first project where I made the whole thing by myself! My friend and I each loved this idea and so together we each made our own version! It was just what I needed for some bathroom beautifying in a small space!!
I love Ana's tapered crate! I decided to add some length to the sides and make it really long! It is super cute and makes a big statement, for only a small amount of work! Sa-weet!
Tue, 09/03/2013 - 14:47
Perfect for a Christmas display!
I better get busy and build one!
Val
Dued to my small kitchen, I used 3x4's instead of 4x4's for the legs. I did away with the drawers, and went with two shelves instead. I lower the first shelf to fit my microwave. This freed up my counter space, which was nice. I stopped by a local stone yard, and picked up a thickest piece of granite they had, and had them cut it 36" x 24". I used Minwax Polyshade White Oak for the stain, and picked up some cast iron hooks from Amazon. All together it came out fairly nice. The only regrets is the wood filler I used wasn't so great, and it didn't stain well.
I needed a birthday gift for one of our sweet neighbor friends, so I dug through my scrap wood stash and decided a small adirondack chair would be the perfect little project!
Thanks to Ana for the plans!
I love my dogs, but their wire kennels were an eyesore. Removing them completely was not an option, but I was tired of looking at them. I went back to my first-ever rehab project, and took it one step further to create a one-of-a-kind castle for my pups.
The original piece of furniture was an old console-style TV cabinet. Sliding doors on the front revealed the TV, and two lids on top contained the tuner and a turn-table.
Armed with screwdrivers, hammers and a dremmel, all components were removed form the cabinet, leaving just the shell. (PLEASE be sure you remove all sharp, potentially dangerous, screws, staples and what-not’s from the inside of the cabinets, to avoid injuring your pet! The dremmel allowed me to cut off and grind down stubborn screws.)
To cover the holes in the top cabinets, I used old checker boards. The cubbies are now a great place to store dog treats and leashes.
OPTIONAL: The back panel of the cabinet I used had holes from the TV components. I elected to replace the back board with a new sheet of peg board. (The peg board allows for much-needed ventilation.) In order to get the size perfect, I traced the old back onto the new and marked the original screw holes.
I vacuumed the inside to remove all construction debris and polished the exterior with Pledge. Then, I inserted an old comforter into the kennel, and stood back as my two pups launched themselves into their new abode.
The doors can stay open during the day for them to enter at their own will, and close for bedtime. And my eyes no longer hurt.
Thu, 08/11/2011 - 18:41
This was such a great idea. I love the old console. I love to build but I love it so much more when I can use old wood or repurpose parts of old furniture and industrial pieces. I feel creative. The checker boards are great. Do you have a blog?
He likes natural wood, I like painted furniture. Solution: two-toned bed! Vertical slats are stained in Minwax Red Oak (took 3 times to get that dark color!), surround is painted black. I thought we'd never find a workable compromise!
I changed up the dimensions a bit to fit my preferences:
1. I like a taller headboard and footboard (dog can't rub against the end of the bed anymore - wahoo!).
2. Also wanted the bed to be just a bit higher above the ground so I wouldn't have to buy new under-bed storage boxes.
3. Used 1x6s instead of 1x8s for the vertical slats because they fit the width just perfectly - no trimming needed.
4. Added about 2" to the length so I'd have plenty of room for tucking the duvet at the end of the bed. I hate when the covers get stuck and I can't pull them up easily!
5. I routed out a groove in the posts to slide the side rails in because it seemed more secure than screws alone. Could've done it without, though.
6. We used dowels and wood glue on the 2x6 tops of the headboard and footboard pieces. I think it made a big difference in the overall appearance. We don't have a doweler, but the hubby made a guide with a spare 2x4 to keep our dowels lined up correctly. It worked pretty well.
Next time I would use pocket screws. I've acquired a jig since this piece was completed. It would definitely have saved me some time in the finishing process.
I really wish I could have talked the hubby into letting me distress the finish just a bit. The thing is, it's inevitable around here (my kids are like crazy apes sometimes!). So I really wanted it to at least look intentional. Oh well, I guess we'll get there soon enough even without it!
Thu, 09/05/2013 - 09:07
I like the foot board height. I noticed it in the Arched Headboard version of the Farmhouse bed a while back but could not find dimensions. I also like the idea of having more space under the sides to fit my storage bins. Could you tell me what the cut length was for the 2x6s on the foot board? I like the finish too! Bed looks great.
Thu, 09/05/2013 - 10:27
GScott -
Thanks!
I changed several things on the footboard, as follows:
Slats = 22"
Post = 26.5"
Total height of footboard = 29.5"
I made the slats on the headboard a bit longer too, but didn't change the actual height of the headboard. I just wanted the wood to extend down behind my mattress a bit so I wouldn't have a little corner of wall showing behind it.
As for more space under the sides - I just screwed the siderails in just a bit higher than the plan called for.
Built for our 4 ur old son.. We all love it and had fun together!
Fri, 10/30/2015 - 20:13
I love this bed. (It's definitely on my to build list.)
A piece of Palouse/Moscow/North Idaho History!
Hand-crafted by father and son from reclaimed materials native to the region, this is a one-of-kind piece of furniture of both substance and significance. The stock was sourced from the railroad depot that stood on the University of Idaho campus in Moscow for well over 100 years. The crops, forest products, and people of the Palouse passed through its doors and across its floors from the early days of westward expansion and settlement. Marked for demolition in 2017, the depot yielded lumber that had been harvested from old growth forests native to our region since time immemorial. The trees that produced the lumber-turned-dept-turned-halltree stood tall, proud, and mature at the time of the signing of the Declaration of Independence.
The halltree’s back panel and trim are crafted from the depot’s tongue and groove flooring, and still bear the marks of their original milling. The remainder of the piece is constructed from the ceiling planks. Twice painted during the course of the depot’s sentinel watch over the commerce and culture of our region, the cream surface coat is yielding to the forest green base layer, giving the finish a depth and patina that testify to its age. The history of the Palouse literally passed over, under, and between every square inch of wood in this halltree! It now stands ready to serve a family for generations to come while reminding them of our pioneer past.
Dimensions: 39” x 15-1/2” x 78-1/2”
Built the 2x4 outdoor out of scrap and discount Home Depot wood. The stain was $.50 from the oops paint rack at Home Depot.
I made this chair for my 3 year old son's Birthday, he loves it. Really easy build.
In reply to Great colour! by Francoise
Wed, 08/17/2011 - 15:03
I love the navy blue and white combination, I am trying to use it more around the house...just waiting for my son to be tired of his toy story theme room to re-do it. :)
Pine box with walnut top and drawer faces. Behr paint on the box and tung oil finish on the walnut.
Designed a loft bed for teenage son. We used iKea shelving cubes for stairs/storage. The boards(flooring) are pine boards stained a dark brown. The other wood is painted black. The "headboard" is actually the bookcase shelf from his desk.
We really liked the plans for this table, but it was too narrow for our taste. My husband altered the plans so that the table is 36" wide. The solid oak boards on the table top are reclaimed from the old barn out back.
Sat, 08/20/2011 - 19:14
Beautiful built! I'm so excited to see your table! Thank you so much for sharing!
Thu, 08/25/2011 - 20:20
Thank you Ana for making the plans available and easy to follow. My honey-do list gets longer. You do such great work.
Mon, 08/22/2011 - 04:50
Great finish. What type of wood did you use for the top and what color was your stain?
Thanks,
Susan
Thu, 08/25/2011 - 20:19
The top is oak from an old barn we have on our property. The stain is named Provincial from Minwax. The rest of the boards are whiteboards from Lowes.
Mon, 08/29/2011 - 19:25
Gorgeous table! Where did you find the metal rod for the bottom of the table?
Wed, 08/31/2011 - 14:49
I found it a Lowe's in the section where the pipes are sold.
Sun, 12/04/2011 - 07:14
Gorgeous table!!! I love the finish, and I know you must be so proud of your work. I love the pic that shows the bones of your table in progress. It shows the craftsmanship that you put into this piece. Great job!
Sun, 02/12/2012 - 10:11
Hi,
You mentioned that you used "Provincial by Minwax" I looked at it at lowes but it doesn't seem nearly dark enough to achieve the color from your pictures. I have included a link to it so, maybe I have the wrong stuff:
http://www.lowes.com/pd_45804-24-22110000_4294766269_4294937087_?produc…
If you could let me know if I'm on the right track that would be great!
Thanks!
Tue, 02/14/2012 - 04:55
You have the correct stain on the website, I used 3 coats on the table top to get it darker and let the stain soak in longer before wipping off the extra. On the chairs only 2 coats were applied. What I did was sand in between all the coats, even though the stain directions say its not needed, I just wanted to try and the results I liked. As always try on a spare piece of wood first. I hope this info. helps, thanks for looking and asking.
Wed, 02/22/2012 - 10:30
Great! Thank you for the reply. I am going to start on this project in a few weeks and your input is very valuable. I'll give it a go and let you know how it goes.
Thanks again!
Wed, 03/07/2012 - 19:39
I love the table, but I'm suprised that no one said anything about the chairs. Do you have the plans for the chairs you made? I built the table but would love to have chairs that matched! Thank You
Tue, 03/13/2012 - 14:21
I'm in LOVE with your table!!! Did your husband follow Ana's directions for the legs? They look like they are at a slight angle. Does your husband have the plans for this? Thank you so much!!
Tue, 03/13/2012 - 14:26
Hi, I LOVE your table - it came out so beautiful! Just wondering, did you change the plans other than the with of the top? The legs look like they are at a slight angle and I love that!
Sat, 03/31/2012 - 15:47
I followed Ana's plan to build the legs, they are at a slight angle. The chairs are based on the Modern Angle Chair. They are posted as another project. I did add the three cross supports on the bottom. When I saw my wife sit down and lean back a little bit I could see the back legs moving to much in the wrong direction. I basically used a 1x2, and I tried to measure about the middle or what looked good and screwed them in. It added more strength to the legs and made the chair much sturdier. I hope this info., helps. Sorry it took awhile to reply back.
Thu, 01/31/2013 - 04:40
This table is stunning, great work. Everytime we think we know which type of table we want to build we go and see another that looks even better.
I built this dresser for a little girl. It was my first time doing drawers and I was a little intimidated but it wasn't bad at all! I'm going to be building one for my sons room too. Thanks for the great plans!!
I got this Idea from Sausha's washer dryer pedestal post. Before then i didnt know people even built pedestals for their washer and dryer. Just purchased new front load washer and dryer and they wanted 250 bucks extra for each pedestal. That is 500 bucks and is absolutely rediculous. So i opted out of those and thought to myself maybe I can build something instead. So I began my search online and stumbled across this post which seems to be the most popular pedestal build on the web. I think sausha's build is fantastic and absolutely beautiful though I went another way with mine.
I tend to like to overbuild things. Especially in this case, seeing as the washer weighs a beastly 200 pounds by itself. I figured with clothes and water it would be about 235 pounds just for the washer. I noticed that with the aluminum drawer pedestals that you can purchse with the washer and dryer the support is only where the legs from the washer and dryer will sit. That was all I needed to get on my way. Purchased some regular old douglas fir 2x4's, 4x4's, and a 4'x8' sheet of 3/4 inch plywood. I opted to use fence post brackets to tie everything together because I didnt feel like driller pocket holes in each 2x4 when you were not going to see them once its all said and done. The fence brackets are not structural so they lack ridgidity untill you tie everything together with the legs, slats, and top. Cut the top from the 3/4 plywood sheet and used the left over plywood to cover the front and the sides. I left the back open as it is not seen anyway.
Total size of the pedestal is 56" wide x 31" deep x 12 3/4 inches tall, but you can build it as wide, deep or as tall as you need it. When i was done putting it together. I tested it by jumping up and down on it and I weigh 230 pounds. So this thing is quite strong. I finished it up by covering the edges where the plywood meet with Edge moulding and the bottom with baseboard to match my laundry room. I used Behr premium plus ultra paint on most of it and, behr alkyd paint for the baseboards. Gave the top a couple coats of General Finishes High Performance Polyurethane. Which isnt neccessary but I opted to do so because of the weight of the washer and dryer and the General Finishes High performance dries harder than most other polys that I have used. I only used it on the top though.
Taking into account that I used the paint and baseboards left over from renovating my laundry room. This project cost about 150 bucks. 200 if you have to purchase the paint and moulding. Quite easy to do and though I made the cutes I needed with my table saw. This can be done with a circular saw and a drill. No exotic tools are needed. Will post finished pictures when my washing machine and dryer are delivered on friday and they are sitting on top of the pedestal.
Queen bed with shim head and foot boards
I built this for my son's bedroom, but modified it to fit our needs. It is 42" high, 38" wide, and 18" deep. I did a double thick top, which I love, and my Dad routed it for me. This piece is solid! I am very happy with the result! Sorry for the not so great cell phone pics!
My first build, a small side table for our newly decorated guest bedroom. Adapted from the Mini Farmhouse Bedside from Ana's website and the side table from her book.
The top and shelf were made from reclaimed oak panels from an old wardrobe.
I now have a second table and a farmhouse bed to make. I constructed without a Kreg jig but am thinking of buying one now to make construction cleaner.
Mon, 09/16/2013 - 02:19
Looks great! Love the use of the reclaimed oak, and the finish is super! Great job!
Mon, 09/16/2013 - 08:16
Trust the 5 million people on this site that have said "it's the best thing ever" and go buy it! You don't have to get the whole set if you can't afford it, there is a $20 one that you just have to clamp right to your wood. Takes longer but still totally awesome.
Good job.
I really loved the design of Mimi's Faux Mantle. But the wife wanted an electric fireplace for the living room, so after shopping around for them and not finding any that we liked. I suggested we use the Mimi's Faux Mantle design and custom it to fit an electric firebox. We order and firebox then followed the plans pretty close as you. Then finished it in a pure white with an espresso stain. This was our second wood project and had a great time working together on this project. We can't believe how it came out and are already planning more projects.
Sun, 11/22/2015 - 14:49
This is exactly what I'm looking to build! Can you give more detail? Maybe point me to the electric fireplace that you used?
Mon, 11/23/2015 - 13:29
thanks, The electric fireplace insert I bought was a 26 inch SimpliFire insert from HEAT & GLO. I ordered from a local vendor and it took a few weeks to get. They had two sizes and based on the space and the plans I went with the 26in. I really liked the look of Mimi's Faux Mantle, so I used those plans but had to change them just a little. First I had to build the opening around the insert and then add sides. I didn't need to but I added a bottom mantle to make it feel like a really fire place.Oh I also made the top mantel a little more bigger than the plans. I hope this helps and good luck on building yours. If you need any more info just let me know.
Great project for my first attempt at building a farmhouse table. I adjusted the base to allow a chair to slide in at both ends. Braced breadboards on each end with (3) 2x4. Very strong and sturdy. Decided not to use the lower base support to see how it held up and has been extremely stable. My wife liked the open look so that's all I needed to hear. Excellent plans, had fun and came out better than I anticipated!
Built-in floating shelves!
by Lisa