Community Brag Posts

We made it a little shorter to act as a coffee/cocktail table on the deck. Comes in handy for homebrew too!

It took a while to come together and made several modifications but it is a great coop and was a major selling point of the house when we were relocated.  I had added a main tray under the roosts and a door to srape the poop out.  This made keeping the coop clean very easy.  

We used the plans from this site to build this for our daughter. We did however make the bed part a bit more sturdy to ensure that no one would get hurt and to make sure it could support any weight. We added 4 2x4s across the bed like rafters and screwed the slats on top of them.

I have built several of these Jelly Cupboards since the plans came out. Everyone really likes them, and they are super fast and easy to build. The last one had glass doors that turned out pretty well. I like to use plywood beadboard on the back to give it a little more character. I also like to use 'hardware cloth' for the mesh type doors (found at farm stores). It usually has openings about 1/8" or less but not as tight as screen, which looks perfect.

Edit: For hardware part numbers and sources please see: http://grvland.com/wordpress/2012/02/07/jelly-cupboard-project/

I made this out of walnut, no stain just a clear poly coat to protect the wood.

Jennifer

We added some fun features to this project that our little girls LOVE. For more information and pictures visit: http://bit.ly/1feQ4se for full details! Hope you like it :)

 The project was used using the same plans but I extended the floor to be 6 feet wide vice 4 feet the additional 2 feet provided the perfect amount space I wanted. I also added an extra windows  to get cross ventilation.    I also insulated the coop and put paneling on the walls and lenolium on the floors.  I dropped the back wall sheeting 1.5 inches for additional airflow since the shed doesn't have a ridge vent.   The plans are easy to follow and easily adaptable.   

This is a fun project even for beginners. If you have an interest in building a sandbox, and have some tools, I'm sure you can make this easy enough!

I used 2" X 10" wood for my sides instead of the 1" as the plans call for. This gives extra strength and more depth. When you use 2" wood, you will have to turn your 1 X 4's the other way to match the 47½" width, because with the added width of the 2 side boards, your new width is now 49¼". It's not difficult, you just have to match your 1 X 4 X 47½ boards to the proper width. It will turn out fine, they just won't match the plans or pics of those using 1 X 8's for sides.

Sorry, I'm delivering this to my grandson's house for his birthday present, so no sand, but use landscaping cloth under this sandbox, then fill with sand.

One other thing, I'm toying with the idea of matching the angle the backrest is at and re-cut new pieces of 7½" arm rests. I think that may look a little better than the rectangle blocks.

My added pics are as follows:
1. The side boards all cut, and sizing up the frame.
2. All other boards are cut; I laid them out for fit before screwing the pieces together.
3. Using a square will help you keep everything at the correct angles. Also note in this picture and the next where I used two ½" pieces of wood I ripped to keep the ½" spacing uniform. Just rip any wood to the ½" width, make 2 pieces and butt against the next board on both sides, then screw them down. Makes it VERY easy to keep a uniform gap.
4. This picture shows me using the same "spacer" when putting the hinges in place. The red arrow points to the wood spacer.
5. The first bench is complete, and working fine!!

With the wood I used in my project, I used 2½" self tapping deck screws for the frame and attaching the 1X4's to the frame; I used 2" galvanized for attaching the 1X4's to any 2X4's; and for the hinges, I used ¾" wood screws. Using these sizes prevented the screws from coming through the other side.

I bought everything needed in this project at Lowe's and it was under $90 in costs; this is all the lumber (upgrading to 2 X 10's), hinges, screws, and handles.

 I had so nuch fun making this table. I love how it turned it out.

Mrs. Lasley

Despite how it looks, this chair was actually pretty cheap and easy to build. The one caveat is that it really needs to be built from hardwood. The minimalist design of this chair requires the strength of solid hardwood. I don't think pine would cut it.

I started by building my angled legs. My chair is nice and lounge-y. If you don't like the relaxed, lounger style, you may want a slightly more shallow angle to your back. The total length of the back is 33". I wanted the leg portion to be 4" tall, so I first cut 2, 33" lengths. Then, measured 4", and cut at a 10-degree angle. I inverted the 2 pieces, and attached them together with glue, pocket holes, and screws.

Once I had my angled legs, I put together my back frame, front frame, and finally joined them together with the armrests and side supports. I used wood glue and countersunk, 3" screws at each joint.

To create the sling, I took two, 52" leather belts, and strung 19" wide slats, 1" apart. I attached the slats to the leather using a pop rivet gun. For this size chair, I used 17, 1.5" wide slats to create the sling. I then attached the sling to the frame using carriage bolts and nuts.