Community Brag Posts

I wanted my kids to have more space in their shared room, but I did not want to pay a ton of money for a new bunk bed. My husband and I found a plan for this bunk on Ana-White and fell in love with the design. It turned out so great that we will still be using it in our next home whether it's needed or not. We did change a couple of things on the plan that we didn't care for. The first is that we added a side rail for safety. Secondly we also traded the 1x6 boards on the head and foot boards for 1x4s on the top but kept the 1x6s on the bottom.

Modified by making 18" deep, right side is 20" wide (inside dimension) to accommodate cable box. I also trimmed out the side panels with 1x2 not just the front.

I used a rail and stile router set to make the doors. To do it again, I would have selected maple, as it routes better than the poplar. I would also consider overlay doors, made from 1x3. The inset doors leave little room for error - the frame must be square!!! You also have more hinge options with overlay hinges.

I also used 3x3 for the legs, I think their weight adds to the piece. The original base looked too small and fragile for the rustic upper half.

Some work still remains, staining as well as placing the veneer step on the shelf edges to give it a nice edge to stain, but I needed the space back for Thanksgiving dinner tomorrow!

This lap desk was easy to build, it took me less than 2 hrs.  The painting and finishing...um, a bit longer.  I really hate painting, and filling nail holes is not my favorite thing to do, either.  But overall I am glad I built this little desk, as it will keep all of my beads and jewelry-making stuff handy for when I am sitting in front of the tv at night.  The side storage compartments were omitted to keep it on the lighter side, and the front handle serves no purpose whatsoever, it is purely decorative.  I added my initials on the top, they are just fancy gold stickers I found at the craft store.

About a year ago, I stumbled across your site, I was a lurker for awhile, finally joined, and can finally post the projects I have done so far. This was my second build from your site. It works perfectly on the front porch.

This was my second Ana White project (first was a sandbox). I made a few changes to Ana's plan so that it would better fit my porch. First, I basically flip flopped the plans so that the end table was on part 1. I also altered the length to better fit the cushions I found. Ana's plans were 24" between the 2x2. Mine ended up being 26.5". I also used 2x8's for the base instead of the 2x4 for added height.

The price of outdoor cushions was a big surprise!! We looked into buying outdoor high density foam and making our own cushions, but that seamed to be just as expensive as buying cushions. We also really had a hard time finding large cushions that actually fit this plan. Most cushions are REALLY small for this couch. we found some Pottery Barn cushions online that were on clearance.

It was a fun project and we love the couch!

I built the Simple Bed into bunk beds. The plans for this project are pretty straight forward. The only change I made in the plans, was use 2" x 4" angle plates to mount the side rails to the head and foot boards. This made it easy to assemble and disassemble if the beds needed to be separated or moved. I also had to use two 2"x4"'s mated together to make the bed posts since 4"x4"'s are only available pressure treated. The ladder is constructed of 2"x4" with the steps spaced 10" on center. 

I followed plans from someone who modified the Essential Adirondack plan to make it seat two. It is a fun and quick build!!

We made this based on the Emerson Buffet plans, but modified to fit our current TV accessories. We also added legs, instead of the framed base. 

My first project using Ana White plans. Used pressure treated lumber and Kreg pocket hole jig. Cost: $126.

I saw the plans for this and had to have it! My husband had it assembled pretty easily (we've built several dining tables/benches, but this was our first piece that went out of that box, lol) and the whole project took maybe a day or two including staining. We left of the end pieces just because we were trying to get it done quickly for Thanksgiving; we intended to add them on later, but I kind of like it open. Everyone who has seen it loves it!

Not quite big enough for Pizza Oven, but love the plans!

This is our version of a dresser cabinet. Thought we would share. We used mostly birch plywood and began by staining it but ended up painting it after the stain didn't work out.

I used the basic plan but made a few changes. First I wanted a track layout that was screwed down. Easy to start playing for a two year old. And a reversible top that could be used for activities. The top therefor is one piece of ply. With a hole drilled in one end for inserting a finger to start the lift/flip. I used a little thinner ply than recommended to give a little lip around the trim to not allow the crayons and trains to roll on the floor. This also allows me to put two inserts on the plain side. I have a half chalkboard/ half whiteboard inserts. This gives it more flexibility. I also added a theater front to the mix that I store in the cavity of the box with the other top inserts. Finisher with white paint and minwax spray lacquer.

I built this project after my wife saw a brag post from one of Ana White's followers. She was excited to regain some of her kitchen counter space by moving the Keurig machine and Vitamix blender. The build was completed in a single weekend.

I've wanted a storage bed step for years. They can be used for all sorts of things from storing books (not just in the bin, but also on the lower step) to remotes to . . . well, whatever clutter you need to stash away! But all those professionally-made ones are a steep price. The children's step on the site ( http://ana-white.com/2010/09/some-more-stairs.html ) is just perfect for modifying for a more adult look. An applique, wider steps, sloping sides, and a decorative cut on the front help transform child's furniture into practical storage space for children, teens, and adults!

Before I start, here's a bit of encouragement for those of you like me who don't have access to a lot of power tools: I made ALL of the cuts with a jigsaw! So if that's all you have, don't be afraid to try it!

The main thing to do is to take your time. Think things all the way through and do them in the way that you feel will be the easiest for you. Use a pencil and draw all over that wood (for this plan--I recommend a paint finish!). For example, I realized I would need to assemble a significant amount of the middle section first, because there was no way to get the bottom step securely attached without doing this. I couldn't attach its back edge to the interior, with tools I have access to, if the plan's assembly order was followed. Other than putting the lid on last, I had to use a completely different order for assembly, and it was so unusual that I'll leave that order up to you. So, take your time--but you can do it!

Bed Step's Interior and Top
----------------------------

Adding 4" to the plan's side-to-side lengths brings it about up to the size of a traditional adult bed step. It also adds a LOT more storage space under that top step! However, you'll notice from the photo that I wanted an inset lower step. With it inset, sloped sides could be added--these double as built-in bookends! The lower step/tread, therefore, won't have 4" added to it. Instead, it should be cut to the same width as the interior boards (such as the footer). The lower step then becomes 16" (the same new length as the interior pieces), while the top one becomes 18" (4" added). Here's how I modified these pieces:

* 2 - 1 x 12 @16" (rather than 12") for the actual box's front and back (they're called "sides" in the plan). Here's a really easy change. The hole in the front one to pull open the lid can be omitted. This cut seems to make it look more like a child's step, isn't on adult ones I've seen, and the overhang of the top tread, especially on the side edges, is enough to open the lid. With a lot of planning and measuring, it can be helpful to add the applique to the box's front before too much of the assembly is complete, because it's easier to attach it to a flat board. On the same board, draw where the top of the lower step tread should hit. This is one of many helpful lines you can draw on the wood before assembling the bed step.

* 2 - 1 x 6 @ 16" (instead of 12") for the storage box bottom and the footer of the lower step (where it says "Molly" in the plan). On the footer, add a decorative jigsaw-cut-out design of your choice. Remember to leave a significant amount on the bottom for support.

* 1 - 1 x 8 @ 16" for the lower, inset tread

* 1 - 1 x 8 @ 18" for the top tread

Bed Step's Sides
-----------------

The above instructions pertain to the bed step's pieces that make up the center section. But the sides of the bed step can be a little intimidating due to the slope change, and here's where a pencil will come in really handy! First, a sigh of relief. The pieces are cut to the same length, so there's no change there. Cut out two 1 x 12 pieces at 14". Another sigh of relief: Your lower step will hit in the right place, because it's inset, and you've already drawn on another board where it should hit on the other side! In some ways, this can be a bit easier than having to get those original-plan L-shaped cuts just so.

Because the 1 x 12 I used was really off with measurements (it was 11 1/4"), I can't really give precise measurements for the step's two sides. But I'll try to explain what I did as best as possible in hopes that it will be helpful if you want to copy this look. The side pieces require a lot of thinking, in order to get that slope to hit the right areas. When I was finished with this bed step (before painting it), it was covered in pencil marks!

You won't want to cut as far down as the instructions say, in order to have the side slopes end a bit higher than where the lower step hits. Because the dimensional lumber I used was not a standard width (it was 11 1/4"), I only cut down about 5 1/8" instead of 6". But don't follow this measurement--base it on the wood that you have, instead. When you measure, keep in mind where the other boards will hit the sides, and measure. Basically, where the top of the arch sits shouldn't need to change from the plans, but you probably won't want to have your lower arch cutting point as low as 6".

I freehanded the slope to the needed size on a piece of paper, and then traced it to both pieces on opposite sides. The bottom arched cut already in the plans should be drawn on, as well. Remember to measure and draw, measure and draw, getting it exactly as you want it before making those cuts.

If you're going for the homemade antique look, it's easier, which is one reason I like the distressed look. You can just tell yourself it's supposed to look whatever way it ends up looking!

I hope these tips will help you make a bed step, as well as encourage you to try to modify other Ana White plans to fit your own needs. Have fun!