Community Brag Posts

Modified the original plan to meet our needs of a laundry sorter. Had problems with the hinges so ditched them. I used dowels with a combination of a chamfer cut on the bottom of the door. Dado-ed the trim on the doors and slide the bead board panels in. The face frame is all held together with pocket hole screws, which I highly recommend because it eliminates nail holes and keeps the face frame square. This was my first wood working project, took me a little long to get it done. Thanks for looking.

Modified January 28

So here are some more pictures of my project. I don't really have any good pictures of the dowels. But what I can tell you is, I drilled holes through the sides of the face frame and the trim pieces and then measured where the holes would be in relation to the "drawer". I then drilled holes in the drawers at those measurements, I was careful to not go to deep. I think I went in half an inch. After that I started at one end and placed the dowels in, then put each drawer in. It wasn't easy but with a little patience it worked. The key is to wax the dowels so they will last longer as well. I also am including pictures of the top and bottom trim. On the top the original plans called for an overhang piece and I didn't like the way that looked. I ran the top board an inch long on each side and then wrapped it in quarter round trim. I did this because I plan on adding the Mimi Hutch Top. The bottom was built per the plan, but I ran into a problem with my bottom trim not being level and you could tell. So I raised the whole unit on 1 1/2 legs then placed it on a level surface and again wrapped it in a decorative trim. The key on both trims was a nice miter joint. Last picture I added was of my stoppers. I took scrap from the 1x2 trim and cut them to an inch and a half or two (can't really remember), then using the Kreg Jig drill bit drilled recessed holes. I then opened the doors until the side 45s were level then mounted the blocks on each side. I feel that it is better than a chain or string catch. Again thanks for looking and I hope I answered all of your questions.

I used cedar deck boards and rails to make this chair - A little more costly, but definitely worth it!

The seat and back rest were made using 5/4 x 6" boards. I cut them 1/2" to 3/4" longer so that they would overhang the supports - for a more finished look. The 2x2 rails came with an angled cut, so I decided to use that to my advantage on the back supports - I made them a bit longer so they would sit higher on the back rest, and I think the angled cut looks a little more "friendly". All screws were left exposed, since this is an outdoor cedar chair.

The table in the photo is an original picnic table from the 1920's, complete with the original paint. It folds flat for storage. I hope to measure it someday and make a plan to build a reproduction - If that ever happens, I will post it on Ana's site.

Thanks Ana for the great plans!

Steps:

1) Cut the boards to the specs below or adjust to your space

2) Kreg Jig the cut boards along each of the sides (length wise and on the ends) for attaching and making a box.  

3) Make 3 separate boxes, don't assemble until you move to location.  I used 4x4 cedar posts in the corners of the base box to add stability.  I used 2x2 pine in the front corners of boxes 2 and 3 for stability.  Install these after the dirt has been added so you can hammer in as a stake, attach with screws on front and sides.  I created 2 stakes for boxes 2 and 3 and added to the front to prevent bowing when the dirt is added.

Box Dimensions:

1) (base) 70.5" L x 46 W x 4 cedar boards high

2) 70.5" L x 32 W x 2 cedar boards high

3) 70.5" L x 16 W x 2 cedar boards high

I built this table for a friend who wanted a rustic, plank-top kitchen table. She wanted a square table with 4x4 legs. Since I don't have clamps, I used pocket holes and wood glue for the table top. Also, I only have a 7&1/4" miter saw, which means the 4x4s were too thick to cut. So I made one cut in the legs, then flipped them and made another. It worked! :) I sanded down the sides of the table top with 80 grit. They needed to be evened up since some of the planks were a little longer than others. I back braced underneathe the top with (3) 1x3s. Then, I sanded all over with 120, vacuumed, then wiped it down with a damp towel. Fun build!! 

Our latest project “Ana” inspired, just in time for winter. - Robin Chase on Facebook

This is the perfect workbench for my needs.

I upgraded the casters to bigger ones as my shop's floor is in rough shape.

I also added storage under the two work surface next to the miter saw. This was just a matter of closing under the 2X4 frame and making the two sections on casters a little shorter. The only downside for that mod is that the plywood can bend a bit since it is not screwed to the frame. I don't mind since it falls flat as soon as there is weight on it. Also, this mod makes it hard to include fence system (it would need to be removable, like fixed with dowels only, no glue) and almost impossible to include a precise fence system since it would need to be removable. In my case, I do rough, non-repetitive cuts, so there is no need. 

TIP : Pay a little extra for smooth plywood. I lost a lot of time sanding mine :(

This project was quick and painless. I recommend for a beginners project (but expect to get frustrated over building the x's into the side though). I stained our table with the Minwax Classic Gray stain and used the Minwax water-based polyurethane to seal it. I realize that the stain is difficult to see but it is a beautiful stain that has turned into my go-to stain. The stain is not too gray and you can see the natural color of the wood through it. The photo gives the impression a glossy finish. In reality, it is more matte.