Community Brag Posts

Our first build! After finding a vanity top we loved for our DIY bathroom renovation, my husband and I went in search of a chunky, open base with simple lines and a shelf on the bottom. Nothing at the store appealed to us, and I had been talking about all the projects I wanted to build from Ana's site for weeks, so we decided to try the Simple Open Farmhouse Style Vanity. We would just add a shelf to the bottom and omit the top!

This was a really easy plan to scale for our sink, and because we were not doing the top we could make all the necessary cuts with a chop saw.

The only purchases we had to make for the base were screws, slats and a 12-foot-long 4×4 that the guy at the store cut into four 36″ pieces for me. It’s pressure-treated lumber meant for outdoor use, but it was on sale and they didn’t have any other 4x4s. The rest of the materials were 1x4s and 2″ screws that we already had on hand.

For the bottom shelf, we just duplicated the spacers, aprons and skirts from the top, and placed wide slats over that. They look crooked in the photo because they haven't been glued on yet, and using the baskets makes them shift around!

With the vanity top in place the counter height is a little over 37 inches. We are tall people, so this is a tall sink! Perfect for our first build. Thanks Ana!

My wife and I really love the farmhouse look and feel. We saw one of these tables at a furniture store for $2000 with no chairs. I had already bought the Kreg Tool, something that I cannot believe I have done without for so long, when I went to build some $10 Shelves that Ana has on her site. My wife asked me how hard it would be to build the table and I told her I have never done anything like it. I also told her if she didn't like the end project, we could use it as a picnic table outside. It was fantastically easy with the plans and Kreg Jig. Thanks to Ana for all the helpful tips!

Now to the build. We decided that the table needed to be a bit wider and longer for our needs, so I adjusted the plans. It came out to 90"x48". The center board is a 2x12 with the other 4 being 2x10s. The end pieces are 2x8s that I had from building garden boxes. The benches that I also built were from scrap lumber, they are not pictured here as they need one more coat of stain and then three coats of polycrylic. They are 52" long and go on the ends where the kids can use the cross beam as a foot support.

Building this project was rather quicker than I thought. Of course, borrowing a radial arm saw helped out a bunch with the legs. Once it was all together, I sanded the table three times. I used 80, 150 then 220 grit. The palm sander got a real workout over the space of about a week and a half.

Finishing the project, I decided to follow the plans and went with Minwax Weathered Oak and topped that with Minwax Polycrylic. The legs and underside of the table received 2 coats of each, but the top I gave 3 coats of stain and 2 coats of the Poly with a very light sanding in between each coat.

The table then sat completed in the garage for 3 weeks as I had to find enough help to get it into the house. This is one heavy bugger. If we ever sell the place, it stays! There are ~150 screws and all but 12 of those had pocket holes.

Fantastic build and now I am going to build the farmhouse king size bed. And a murphy bed. And more shelves. And a shoe cubby with coat rack. And a wine rack. And a greenhouse... the list goes on and on...

We used the Build a Simple Bed plan and the Bunk Bed from Simple Bed. I modified the plans to build a double bunk bed. We needed a way to fit up to 6 small children in a long, narrow room. Although we haven't built the trundle beds yet, each bunk will also have a trundle bed. The kids especially love their "privacy" curtains!

This is by far the biggest project I've completed yet. It actually surprised me how easy it was to complete. It did take me about 4 days to build the project and an additional week to sand and paint the project.

I followed the playhouse loft plans and the storage stairs plans, adjusting only the back to allow for the additional length of the slide. I didn't add the windows to the sides (I didn't see any point in having them there). I also used the castle loft plans for the slide. When I first started this project I was planning on making the slide completely separate. I changed my mind mid project after I had the side wall cut to length at Lowe's, so I just added that small piece to the left of the slide to make up for the gap. I also made this project in 4 separate pieces (stairs, slide, front wall, back) so I could put it together in her room in one evening and not have to kick her out. Once we moved it to her room all I had to do was screw the four corners in and attach the back wall and bed slats.

I definitely recommend not using particle board. I had no idea what the difference was between particle board, mdf and plywood when I started this project. Particle board was less then half the cost of plywood, but looking back I would pay the extra for the plywood. I don't feel like the screws hold well in the particle board and it also chipped on the bottom some. I actually had a chunk come off in the corner where I must of screwed to closely to the edge. I'm sure this is basic knowledge for most, but for those newbies (like me) just a little tip.

I had a lot of fun building this bed (not so much sanding and painting) and learned a lot. Now off to browse for my next project :)

This was hard for me because I am horrible at using the jigsaw. If I do another one I'll probably not do as many door openings.
It took longer than expected due to filling in all the pocket holes an waiting for the wood filler to dry.
My grandson loves it, he didn't care about my mistakes on it.

I found the Christmas tree shelf plans and since I had drawn my wife's aunt's name for this year I knew she'd appreciate this build.  I chose 1x6 top choice pine and a wider piece for the base since she may decide to set this on the floor instead of hanging it.  I also had some oak plywood I used for the back.  I screwed all the pieces together, countersunk and filled the screw holes with wood putty.  The paint I used was Benjamin Moore, the color was Balsam (567) and I really like how the color came out.  I painted the back and the bottom with standard black interior paint just to protect the wood a little.  I coated it with a couple of coats polycrylic and bought a couple of Christmassy items for the shelf to get her started.  Can't wait to see what she thinks on Christmas day.

This can easily be built in less than a weekend depending on your skill level.  I had to recut one of the boards when I caused some damage while putting it all together.  The sanding, painting and finishing takes as long as you want depending on the finish and care taken.

Love these night stands! I spent $40 on lumber for two night stands and $30 on the hardware! You can see more pics of my finished night stands at www.shanty-2-chic.com

This was a great plan to use!  We changed some of the measurements to fit our space and added a simple base to the bottom.  My inspiration was a picture of an old chippy mantle from a flea market.

I decided to make the Clara table and the $4 stackable chairs for my daughters for Christmas. They were not for them though but rather for their American Girl dolls. I had to modify the plans to work for standard 18" dolls.

The Table:
It is a little taller than it should be but it allows the doll to fit under the table/apron while sitting in an appropriately sized chair (5" seat).

I also changed the length from 18" to 15 1/2" so the cuts could be made from a 4ft board.

3 - 1 x 6 @ 15 1/2" (Top) (1 @ 4ft)
4 - 2 x 2 @ 10" (Legs) (1 @ 4ft)
2 - 1 x 3 @ 10 1/2" (End Apron) (1 @ 4ft)
2 - 1 x 3 @ 9" (Side Aprons)

The apron is 1 1/2 inches. a 1x2 would probably work for the aprons too. You could then shorten the table legs by about an inch.

The Chairs:
The over all dimensions are now 12" H (back), 5 1/2" H (seat) X 6" W X 6 1/2" D

Cut List:
2 - 1×2 @ 4 1/4" (Side Aprons)
2 - 1×2 @ 5" (Side Supports)
3 - 1×2 @ 4 1/2" (Front Legs and Front Apron)
7 - 1×2 @ 6" (4 Seat Slats, 2 Back Slats and Back Apron)
2 - 1×2 @ 12" (Back Legs)

This was a big undertaking for indoor furniture and I learned so much! I slightly adjusted the size to what I had available with some scrap wood from my old stairs so saved a little on costs with lumber!

Our home had a window seat that was only 14 inches deep and too small to sit on lengthwise. The before photo shows it just before I started the demolition phase. I had found the mudroom bench with easy drawers plan and decided it would work for our space. This was my first DIY woodworking project. I bought a Dewalt 12-inch compound bevel, sliding miter saw, a Kreg Pocket hole jig, and a Kreg straight-edge guide, and I plan to use them for future projects. I really enjoyed following the plans and building this project.

I got all of my wood at my local Lowe's by sorting through a lot of boards to find the best ones available. I found a nice-looking sheet of hardwood plywood for the top and sides. It was expensive ($84), but I wanted to try staining the project rather than painting it so that it would complement our flooring and other furniture in the room. I decided that if it didn't work out with the stain, I would paint over it.

A local Benjamin Moore paint store did a great job at finding a stain that would match and could be painted over if necessary. It only required one coat of stain to achieve the desired color, and I applied three coats of polyurethane over it.

We ordered a custom cushion with a cover to match the size of our new window seat with drawers. We, and our doggies, are very pleased with how the project turned out! Thank you, Ana White, for the excellent plans and video!
Gene St Germain, Poulsbo, WA

Fabulous Divider Closet by DIY_with_Emily