Community Brag Posts

I did 4 shelves spaced 18 inches and made with 12ft long pieces cut in half. The total for my project was $26. I already had the stain and tools on hand.

I had so much fun with this! I followed the plans exactly and made up the nightstand as I went along.

I have used 1/2 inch thick plywood, 2x3 instead of 2x2, and 1x3. I don't have any miter saw or table saw. I used hand saw (comes with miter box) and circular saw to cut all the materials. It isn't perfect but I like it.

This was my first ever building project and I love it! I made 2 for my living room and have since made a few more things. Thanks Ana for an amazing website!

This is my second project.  I sanded, primed, painted, sanded to distress the paint, then stained the whole thing just long enough for the stain to soak in to the sanded spots (5 minutes or less), then wiped it off. 

Pottery barn inspired tv media center and matching dresser.

I built this without the current plans with the pocket holes in the bottom. I also made the width a little smaller, by 2 boards. This is very sturdy, my daughter uses it as a platform to perform all the time. I have even stood on it many times. Plus, it can be used as a bench if needed.

I used a darker stain on it and roughed up some of the edges a bit.

B-day present for my niece 

Full Instructions HERE

What you will need to build this DIY Welcome Post:

1. 4 x4 Fence Post Cut: 30 inches long 1×6 down to make 2 5 1/2″x5 1/2″ squares and 2 4 1/2″x 4 1/2″ square.
2. Different Widths of wood cut into squares. For the three tear welcome post I have 3 different sized squares. They measure: SMALL: 5 1/2 by 5 1/2 inches MEDIUM: 7 1/2 by 7 1/2 inches LARGE: 9 1/2 by 9 1/2 inches.
3. Single Hook
4. Long wood screws & Drill
5. Stain
6. Rust-Oleum Varathane Outdoor Classic Clear Water Based Spray, Gloss Finish
7. Wood Glue
8. Orbital Sander or some muscle & some sand paper
9. Wood filler (not required)

Full instructions on how I put this together on my blog.

My eldest daughter contact me to show me the standard doll bunk bed on this site. I decided then that I was going to build one for Christmas for my 6 year old, since she loves to play with her American GIrl dolls. Before I got to it, she ended up drawing a name for Secret Santa gifts with her gymnastics team. I got the idea to build my first bed for the girl who's name she drew, therefore, I'd learn what to and not to do first, since I'll be building my daughters in Oak and not the pine that I would build this one out of. I talked with her mother to see if she played with dolls and she confirmed that she had 3 American Girl dolls that she adores.

You'll also notice that we added another level, since she has three dolls, and you can't leave on without a place to sleep. It was quite easy to add the extra level by measuring the distance between the first and second and then adding that onto to second. In the pictures you can see that I added metal feet to each leg, and that made the bottom of the ladder sit a little above the floor by that same distance. I think that I'll start the ladder on my next one at the bottom rung of the lower bed, and not leave that piece at the bottom.

Needless to say, the little girl was beside herself when she opened the wrapping paper. My daughter learned a lesson on how much more fun it is to give, especially after all of the work, than to receive. Before the party, all she could do was say, "I can't wait to see her face when she opens this." I asked her about it when she came home today, and she said that she must have thanked her a hundred times throughout the night, as it was a sleepover at the gym.

I wish that I had taken pictures along the way, but I didn't. I will however, when I build the next one for my daughter.

It cost me just over $20 to build. I needed 7 - 8' 1x2's. I used a nice piece of cardboard for the floor of each bed. I found it at Sam's club while shopping. They had it between something that was stacked on a pallet, and whatever it was was gone. I asked the manager if I could have it and he was happy to be rid of it. It's not your standard cardboard, but has a double wall. At a width of just over 9", it's very sturdy and especially cheap. The feet were bought at Walmart for $1.57. I glued each connection, even though they were held together by pocket hole screws. With one pocket hole screw per piece, it had the ability to swivel on that screw. I learned that Kreg, the maker of the pocket hole jig has come up with a mini jig, which allows double pocket holes to be drilled into a piece of wood just 1" wide. I asked and received one for Christmas. My daughters will feature the new holes and therefore, I won't be glueing it.

Hope you have as much fun building it as I did with my daughter.

Built this table 11 feet long with live edge sinker cypress. Hand rubbed 12 coats of tung oil, then finished with Waterlox satin.

Found the old Home Depot plans, and decided to add my hand burned touch to it.
Have seen some that were using vinal or painted letters, but i like the burned effect, and its easier to seal right over the top with the outdoor stain/seal treatment..

A 36" sink base is the center, flanked by two 18" cabinets made by modifying the 21" base cabinet plan.

Here are some of the more structual photos to help people along the way. 

I did the head board and foot board using the directions. I used 2 4.5 inch screws on each 4x4 post to secure the 4x4s to the head board. 

I used 2 4.5 inch screws to secure the head board to the frame. 

I used some brackets I had lying around to secure the footboard to the frame. 

I used 0.5 inch partical board to put on top of the frame I put the joists down 0.5 below the side rails so the partical board would sit down and inside. 

I used 2x6 boards for the frame with deck brackets to secure it. 

I used left over wood from the 4x4 to be cut 10inch each and 2x6 study 3 of those 4x4 to lift the frame up.

for the fourth raiser I used left over wood from the 2x10. 

I primed the wood and painted white. 

Hopefully these pictures help. 

All said and done it was close to 500-600 to build. I did this in Canada where materials can be a little pricier. 

This is a basic console table, aside from the drawer. This was my first time attempting drawer, and it wasn't too bad. The top I put together from a piece of 1x8 and 1x4's using my Kreg jig. It ended up being a bit long, so I trimmed the breadboard ends down a couple inches. For the base I used reclaimed table legs and 1x6's for the aprons. To make the drawer opening, I simply cut out a rectangular hole slightly larger than my drawer box out of the front apron. The drawer box I built out of 1x3's and 1/4in plywood and then attached a piece of 1x4 for the face. Since it was a small drawer, I didn't want to purchase drawer slides for it. I pocket holed some 1x4 stretchers, going from the front to back of the table on either side of the drawer opening. I then screwed a strip of 1x1 to the drawer box horizontally, lined it up to the stretchers and screwed another 1x1 to the stretcher. So basically, I made my own sides using 1x1. I added a bin pull and was done. I feature a few other projects like this on my blog http://pneumaticaddict.blogspot.com .

Restoration hardware style coffee table.  We saw a coffee table we liked but didn't want to spend $2000 on.  Designed my own and managed to build for $200.  Main expense was the $130 for the legs from Osbornewood.com.