Community Brag Posts

I wanted a bunk bed for our daughters, it needed to be easily moveable like the "classic bunk beds." I also wanted stairs like the "Sweet Pea Garden" bunk bed because we have toddlers in the house. I modified the classic bunk bed to put the ladder on the end, then built the Sweet Pea stairs to fit to the opening (I think the only difference in dimensions was a 20" top stair. I didn't want the unfinished ends of plywood so I got 4'x16"x3/4" pine boards from lowes which happens to be the width of the stairs in the plan. Instead of using the 1x2's as trim on the ends of the shelves I put two of them together, one all of the way down the front of each stair and one resting on the top of the stair (screwed together) so I wouldn't lose lateral stability. I then spaced 2x2's in between to keep it "simple" looking instead of the heart shaped decorations from the sweet pea bed. I used some 1/4" paintable composite board to provide a backing to the stairs. I bolted the stairs on to the bed with some flat bar stock cut to size and 3/8' in hex bolts cut to length. I used pocket hole joints wherever possible and countersunk all other screws and used 3/8" dots from lowes to fill the holes. I painted it with a coat of primer and a coat of Glidden Trim and Door paint in antique white from the Easy Vintage Step Stool project.

I used red mahogany 225 minimax stain along with 3 coats of diamond wood finish I gave it a very quick sanding with 600 grit sand paper right before the last coat of the diamond finish and it came out silky smooth and the color really pops. I am just a beginner and I thought this project was gonna be quick and easy because I'm used to having to plain all my wood and get it all ready before putting it together I slapped this together in no time but finishing it without a spray gun after it was all together was a very lengthy process.

We (myself and my girlfriend) decided to build this daybed after considering several options for a new sofa. With three big dogs we knew we wanted a big sofa and after looking at many $400+ options we saw several issues (besides cost), The biggest was the availability of slip covers for easy cleaning. We went with the daybed route because a mattress is far cheaper than foam for sofa cushions and twin sheets are readily available for low prices in many colors.

Obviously I altered the plans significantly as I wanted a chunkier, heavier frame that would withstand the abuse of day to day life. Also I removed the canopy as it's not needed indoors. The rear legs are 4x4 nominal which I resawed to 3x3 actual. The rear frame is 1x3 nominal horizontal pieces with 2x3 nominal boards as the verticals. These have rabbets cut in them to join with the horizontal pieces. The bottom support for the mattress is a 2x6 resawn to 2x5 actual and rabbeted to fit each vertical and the legs. Also, the top two horizontals are longer to fit into rabbets in the legs - this allows the back structure to be far stronger.

The sides are constructed of 1x3 horizontals with the leg and arm cap being 2x4 nominal resawn to 1x3 actual. The verticals were rabbeted like the rear to accept the horizontal pieces. The front crossmember is a 2x6 nominal block planed to match the front legs.

Joinerys consists of the following -
All rabbeted joints are glued and brad nailed together.
The legs and arm/top caps are pockted screwed to the horizontal crossmembers.
The front, sides, and rear join with 3 1/2" deck screws and 5 1/2" lag bolts.
Stringers/mattress supports are 2x3 nominal.

Finish is Behr premium plus interior latex eggshell paint/primer sprayed with an HVLP sprayer.

If anyone is interested I can take some measurements and more photos. Right now we just have our old futon mattress on (we're saving to do some other projects).

This grill table took a weekend to build. The base is made of cedar and top is concrete. More information on how to build this table is available on my blog.

I made this coop twice as wide like Ana suggested since I have 4 chickens and wanted to make sure there was some extra wiggle room in case “chicken math” got the best of us. I made a nesting box to mount on the outside. I also used plywood for the sides like Ana did in the video. I installed a Run Chicken automatic door that opens at sunrise and closes at sunset. I added some hasps and clasps to make sure all my doors would close tightly. I put hardware cloth across the top before installing the roof panels. I stapled and buried hardware cloth around the perimeter for predator protection. I also spray painted the hardware cloth flat black so that it would be easier for us to see inside the coop. I stained the rest of the wood with Varathane Semi-Transparent stain, color “Carbon Gray.” I also added some roosts and cedar shingle siding for some extra protection during our New England winters at to match our house. Working 2-4 hours a day, off and on, with a bum shoulder and weak hands, this took me about a week! Thanks for the great plan, Ana!

I wanted to build a structure for the kids to play in, but not include a playhouse. I used the playhouse deck design and made it slightly smaller (6 feet by 8 feet). The "roof" is removable to provide shade when it's sunny. It's just PVC and a tarp - pretty simple, but it does the job. I used treated posts and untreated lumber for the rest of it. I painted everything in my garage before assembling it. Once all of the wood at been painted, but came together pretty quickly!

We started with the basic chicken shed coop plans and modified it some. We wanted the peak to be in the front for ease of access and to allow leaves from tree overhead and rain and snow to fall to the back away from the entrance. The windows raise from the inside using 1/8" wire secured on the inside with a rope cleat hook.

We added Dutch doors. We added latches for the pop door to keep it iopen or closed as needed. Dutch doors also have decorative latches and eyehook latches to secure them when they are fully open. I rested the shed on 12 in. x 8 in. x 12 in. concrete patio pier blocks to allow drainage. we extended the roof about 6 " to allow for extra protection and avoid dripping whe  it rains.

On the inside I have a roost and a poop deck. Hanging from the poopdeck I have their feed to keep it off the floor and keep shavings, etc. from getting into the food. The poop deck  and the floor are covered with comercial grade tile to facilitate easier cleaning.

For this project, I used 6 foot cedar fence posts and 8 foot cedar 2x4s. I used a pencil to space the boards and allow extra air flow. More space between boards is acceptable - even to the extent of dropping off one full board and putting an inch between each side rail.

Another option is to make your sides interlocking layers, one or two boards high - http://cedarstackingcompostbin.blogspot.com/

Since I am composting large amounts of leaves and grass clippings, mine is made in one piece. I don't turn my pile often - when I do, I can either lift the whole thing up or move the pile from side to side. I cut the 2x8x8 posts - cut a 3 foot length off of each end. Save the 2 foot center piece to brace the long sides. Affix your 1/2 (3 foot side) and full fence (6 foot side) boards to the 2x4, leaving the desired gap between each board. Affix each board with 2 weather proof screws - I used coated deck screws.

Attach the vertical posts to the inside of the cedar fence boards, including the short 2 foot boards that are just long enough to brace the long sides. I alternated the dog eared sides, so that each corner had one flat and one notched board.

I used 24 cedar fence posts and 16 feet of cedar 2x4. Note, I was able to do this all along. The trash cans acted as supports - no clamps or saw horses needed.

This was my first project ever. I had a lot of fun and it didn't quite turn out right but next time it will be perfect.