Community Brag Posts

I built 3 of the square picnic tables, as we have a large extended family. I enjoyed the project and the results. I did end up adding a cross brace and some metal clips, they added a little more strength for the table when it was full of people.

Thank you for sharing your plans.

Rick

This was one of my first bigger builds. I am so happy with the way it turned out!

Added kitchen and dining room storage by building bookcases / shelf units to fit under the peninsula breakfast bar overhang. It's the simplest possible "box with a toe-kick", loosely based on Ana's plans for a bookshelf and the closet master system.

Much of the "working time" was stain and finishing time. Actual cutting and assembly time was under 3 hours.

No dimensions: every breakfast bar is different.

1 - The boards were cut to fit under the overhang, with 1/8 or less clearance. Top and bottom of unit is between the upright pieces.

2 - Width of units was also cut to fit. One unit is the width of the lower section of countertop (appx 23 in), the taller section was divided into 2 equal units (appx 21 in)

Shelves were cut about 1/4" narrower than the insiude dimension of the unit, to allow for insertion and the shelf pegs.

3 - Toekick space cut to match the cabinet on the far side of the peninsula. Used a circular saw and then a hand saw to finish the corners.

4 - Drilled pocketholes in the top and bottom boards.

5 - Used Rockler's jig for drilling shelf pin holes in the 6 uprights. Oops! I should have drilled every possible hole. I drilled every other hole and don't have the shelf flexibility I really need.

6 - Stained and topcoated everything, let it dry.

7 - Assembled each shelf unit, using corner clamps and a carpenter's square to make sure it was square. The bottom shelf is screwed at the same level as the toe-kick.

8 - Slid units under the overhang, shimmed them firmly under the countertop.

9 - Added shelf pegs and shelves

DONE!

Doors could be added, using the hinges for inset doors on frameless cabinets.

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NOTES:
The units are backless. I considered nailing a 1/8 hardboard back onto them, but because the finished back of the peninsula is visible behind them, and they are shimmed into place to prevent slouching it was not needed.

Cost is low because we had some 1x12 boards in the attic. Already had the tools and stain from earlier projects. 3 1x12 x 6ft boards were new, the rest were salvage.

I basically stuck to the plans, but I shortened the length of the table just a touch, and lengthened the bench to fit just inside the legs. I also used 2x4s for the legs, tapered them for aesthetics (similar to some other posters), and reinforced them with "L" brackets to reduce the wobble. We finished it with Semigloss white paint, Minwax Honey stain, and Minwax Gloss Polyurethane.

If I can make this table, just about anyone can.

Bookshelf for our living room

For Christmas gifts this year, I built several different jewelry boxes from the Easy Jewelry Box plan. The center one is a variation of the plan, made taller and narrower (that one was for Mom). The drawers are all lined with embossed felt and the 2-drawer boxes have adjustable drawer dividers. These all have sticky-back felt on box and drawer bottoms. The tower style box has added trim. Each one was an afternoon build. These were super fun to build and were a huge hit with Mom and my friends!

I modified the origianl plans by making the cabinet taller.  I also built 2 cabinets and trimmed them both together to make it appear as if it is 1 giant cabient.  It measure over 7 feet tall and just over 6 feet wide.  I did add an additional 1x2 brace in the center of the cabinet to help support.  I also cut an additional 1x4 to use a brace when anchoring it to the wall.  I also chose to add an additional 2 trim pieces to each door because they are much taller than the original plan doors.  

Made this for a fund raiser auction.  Highest bid of the event.   :)

I made the farmhouse bed and patrick cottage dresser. This bed was so simple to make and looks great! I have step by step pictures on my blog.

    I love how my co-op turned out! I added a few things. I made a door for egg collecting, I built 2 nesting boxes. I made a door for access to food and water and I made the middle 2x4s 10 feet so we found move it around the yard. It cost about $130 for me. I had some extra wood that I used for the boxes and ladder. The chickens and myself are enjoying the new coop.

First time really building anything out of wood. Getting a kreg jig was probably the best decision I made on this project. I made the legs slightly taller (7") for a bit of underbed storage and used a 2x4 brace instead of 2x6, so I could sit the slats down a bit lower but still keep a gap above the legs. The mattress sits 3" below the edge of the bed. I put a few legs under the center support, but they probably weren't necessary for the queen size bed. I spent about $150 for the lumber ($50 just for the bigger slats for my memory foam mattress), and about $50 for the kreg jig jr. and screws. I did not use any glue so I can take it apart later, and so far it seems pretty sturdy with no creaks. Thanks so much for the plan Ana!!! On to a headboard and bedside tables...

I used crib size mattress instead of twin to make this bunk bed. I wanted more stabilty so I modified it with more rails at the top and didn't make a brake in the front rails.