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Super Easy.. I like it better without the doors. Recommend getting a KREG Jig. I have the Jr and it was perfect for this project.

Thank You Ana-White for the amazing plans for this beautiful farmhouse queen bed! Not bad for the first try!

We built this table for my brother and new wife's wedding present. We modified it to use as an outdoor dining set. Instead of using the 1x10 for the tabletop we used 2x6's and for the legs we used 4x4's. We attached the top boards with a Camo fastening system we used last year on our deck (works great to conceal the screws). I stained the frame in Behr Cordovan Brown and the top boards in Behr Cedar Naturaltone. It was our first attempt at building a table and I think it turned out great, only problem was giving it away!

I built this table with the dimensions described in the original plans, but made a slight modification by using my Kreg Jig to add pocket holes for attaching the tabletop and seat boards from below rather than drilling down through the top. I'm never really happy with the way a finish comes out after using wood filler, plus not having to fill holes saves a step in the finishing process (which is the really arduous part of the job for me). I also like the sturdiness of the Kreg joints.
This was my first project using the Kreg Jig in an application that didn't have the location for the pocket holes specified, so for the first bench I followed right along with the plans and just detached the drill guide and clamped it to my project to drill the pocket holes as I went along. For the second bench I was familiar with where all the holes should be drilled, so I was able to quickly mark off the location and pre-drill all the pieces assembly line fashion. The second one practically flew together.
If you want to use this method, you will be drilling your pocket holes in the boards labeled "seat support" and "tabletop support" (there are 2 of each of these pieces for each bench/half table). You can mark the position of the tabletop boards on the tabletop supports and drill your pair of pocket holes to correspond roughly to the center of where each board will be (so 6 holes in each of the 2 pieces labeled tabletop support for each bench). Nearly the same process for the seat supports, but remember that the holes to attach the outermost seat board won't be centered because of the location of the front leg. I chose to add a couple of pocket holes through the front leg board as well for extra sturdiness in case it gets picked up by that outermost seat board when the bench/table is getting moved. I have included a picture of the pre-drilled pocket holes to help clarify the above directions.
The build itself can definitely be classified as a beginner project and easily manageable by one lady (although it would be really nice to have a buddy to help move the finished bench...I had to take the tabletop back off mine to move it from my "workshop" (carport) around to my patio). In terms of time, the build for both benches could easily be completed in an afternoon; I ranked it as a weekend project because of the finish. The tabletop and seat boards each have 4 coats of an exterior semigloss paint and I custom blended the colors so that each board gets progressively darker as you go down the bench. I was inspired by the ocean, with the water getting darker as you go deeper and deeper. As you can see from my photos, I rushed headlong into the first bench and put it together unfinished (I was more concerned about figuring out the placement of the pocket holes than the finish.) For the second one I pre-drilled my pocket holes, then put on 2 coats of base coat and 1 coat of color (on seat and tabletop boards) before assembly, saving only the finish coat on the colored boards and touchups on the white boards for after assembly. I definitely recommend the second method.
I worked on the project over a couple of weekends and evenings because of weather and time constraints, but under the right conditions it could be completed in a weekend or even maybe a long day (especially with a second painter and in good paint drying weather). I'm really happy with the final product and I've already been enjoying the comfy bench seat for reading.

Due to rain (and horrible ability) this project has been taking a LONG time it seems. =) We had one of those "cheap" playsets from one of the warehouse clubs that would scare me to death anytime my girls got to swinging on it. So... we knocked it down and I took some liberty with the details from Ana's playset plans.

Loosely based on the small cedar fence picket storage shed plan, this was my first attempt at making a storage unit with a roof. There was only one unplanned trip to the store (to replace two 2x4's that I cut to the wrong length). Pro tip: "measure twice, cut once" doesn't work if you measure the wrong length twice. Also almost lost two fingertips because I'm an idiot and forgot the most basic of safety rules for power tools, namely the "don't put your fingers near the blade of a circular saw when it's in use" rule. Very lucky to only come out of it with a good scare and some wounds that will heal without permanent damage. 

As Ana mentioned in her video, this project could be made with scraps. That’s just what I used.  I used a lot of scraps and cut offs for this project.

I needed to make a K cup holder but also space to hold tea in addition to other coffee "toppings" if you well. In the pictures you can see mini creamers.

This modification was made by adding a small drawer in addition to the holes that would hold the K cups. The small drawer was made with 1/2” plywood (even more scraps) ripped just shy of 1-1/2”. I did this to make sure we did not see the plys of the drawer as I planned to add 1/4” plywood to the top all around. I wanted this to make it all uniform with the K cup area. 

I added little rubber feet’s to the bottom as this will be on a granite countertop which could results in slipping and sliding. 

My sixteen-year old son took this on as a summer project and built four bar stools. He did a great job! We lowered them by 4 inches from the plan specs to fit under the counter. He used a Miniwax Colonial Maple finish. This project took a lot of Kreg Jig screws and plugs - almost 100 of each. They are very comfortable and beautiful.

I loved the idea of building a washer and dryer pedestal for extra laundry basket storage underneath! Sashua's is beautiful so I took her idea and modified it a bit to work for me. My washer is very, very heavy and I was worried that if there was no support under the weight in the middle, it would start to bow and sag. The original plan also put the washer too high for me to have been able to use without a step stool. So in my modification I screwed cleats into the 2X4 frame of the laundry room wall, placed the 3/4" plywood on top of it and screwed it in. In the front, I used 4X4's as the two corner leg supports and then added two 1X6 supports in the front center, creating three laundry basket bays. I placed it directly onto the floor as opposed to building the bottom base. This saved me money since I was able to buy half the lumber and also allowed me to lower the height of the platform while leaving enough space for my baskets. The top of my platform is approximately 14 1/2" high, which is just low enough so that I can see into the soap filling compartment at the top of the washer. Being that I'm only 5'2" I would have needed to use a step stool to use my washer at the original 19 1/2" plan height. I framed the top edge of the platform with 2X2's, to ensure that my washer or dryer never walked off the edge. Finally, I added some trim along the front edge and around the legs and that's it!

My first project using Ana White plans. Used pressure treated lumber and Kreg pocket hole jig. Cost: $126.

I remodeled the main floor bathroom for my parents. My mom had seen a vanity she like at a home center. Then she thought about doing an open vanity. Then I showed her the one Ana did for the Momplex (48" Turned Leg Vanity). and she loved it. This is what we came up with.

It has bead board panels on the ends and the doors. V-grove planks for the bottom shelf.

The top is made from 100 year old ship lap siding from my brother house. The sink is hand hammered copper with a venetian bronze faucet.