Community Brag Posts

I watched your video and modified mine to take up less space by using 1 x material instead of 2X material, and I cut a notch in the top to allow steak knives to store on top.  Once a cut a notch, then I used my table saw to create the space where the steak knife blades fit. 

From there, lots of sanding and gluing. I made the plywood base about 1/4” shorter than the depth of my drawer so it could be easily placed inside my drawers that don’t fully extend out. 

I finished it with pre-stain conditioner, stain, and then an oil/beeswax blend (used for cuttting boards) applied with 0000 steel wool for a super smooth, satiny finish. 

Angie 

The wife has a hard time bending down so she wanted pedestals for the washer and dryer.  The metal ones with a drawer were too tall.  I showed her Sausha's and she really loved that design.  I basically used the same construction plans idea from Sausha's project and some tips from Ryan's brag post.  But, I wanted to beef it up some.  I didn't like the L-bracket to attach the top and 4X4 legs.  It didn't seem sturdy enough for me.  I used my table saw to square the edges on the 4X4 posts and the 2X6 rails.  Then I used my Kreg jig and glued and screwed everything together.  I liked Ryan's trim ideas, so I used baseboard trim for the bottom and flipped it for the top trim.  I made a 1/2" lip so if it were to vibrate, the washer/dryer would not fall.  I put the trim on the bottom of the legs and was considering putting on the top but I put some different trim all the way around the bottom of the 2X6 rails.  The wife liked that.  I also added some carpet on the top to cut down on vibration and to help keep the units in place. I also put some 4X4 pieces of carpet on the bottom to keep the noise down and to help in moving it. I primed and used an gravity sprayer to paint it.  Then I put 3 coats of polyacrylic to help in cleaning and to cut down on scratches from the laundry baskets. 

I recently had a workshop built and I have been trying to now work on the furniture for it. My first project was this workbench inspired by the plans "garage workshop workbench". I added drawers on each side and will probably end up adding a shelf in the open area as well after letting my kids finish decorating the top. It's already a nice addition and I may build a smaller version for my garage. I added casters and have the option to roll the table around or have it stationary.

Dear Ana, thank you so much for your excellent plan! I have now made four of these toy boxes over the last eight years for my four granddaughters. Initially, I was tempted to modify your plan and make it out of thicker material such as three-quarter inch plywood instead of half inch plywood, but I decided in the end to stick with your plan and I’m very glad that I did. It is still just as strong and yet it is much lighter in weight this way and easy to move around, which happens quite a bit with toy boxes over time. I’m pretty sure these will be treated as heirlooms in my extended family for many years to come.  - Chris Kairys, Franklin Park, Pennsylvania. RetiredWoodworker.com.

No fireplace yet and needed a place for the stockings. Made this for my daughter and her family. - 

I used cedar deck boards and rails to make this chair - A little more costly, but definitely worth it!

The seat and back rest were made using 5/4 x 6" boards. I cut them 1/2" to 3/4" longer so that they would overhang the supports - for a more finished look. The 2x2 rails came with an angled cut, so I decided to use that to my advantage on the back supports - I made them a bit longer so they would sit higher on the back rest, and I think the angled cut looks a little more "friendly". All screws were left exposed, since this is an outdoor cedar chair.

The table in the photo is an original picnic table from the 1920's, complete with the original paint. It folds flat for storage. I hope to measure it someday and make a plan to build a reproduction - If that ever happens, I will post it on Ana's site.

Thanks Ana for the great plans!

Steps:

1) Cut the boards to the specs below or adjust to your space

2) Kreg Jig the cut boards along each of the sides (length wise and on the ends) for attaching and making a box.  

3) Make 3 separate boxes, don't assemble until you move to location.  I used 4x4 cedar posts in the corners of the base box to add stability.  I used 2x2 pine in the front corners of boxes 2 and 3 for stability.  Install these after the dirt has been added so you can hammer in as a stake, attach with screws on front and sides.  I created 2 stakes for boxes 2 and 3 and added to the front to prevent bowing when the dirt is added.

Box Dimensions:

1) (base) 70.5" L x 46 W x 4 cedar boards high

2) 70.5" L x 32 W x 2 cedar boards high

3) 70.5" L x 16 W x 2 cedar boards high